Rockfax Description
A sustained route on perfect rock. Start below a bulge in the wall. Climb the slabby depression to the bulge and through this to a sloping ledge. Up the overhanging flake and into a scoop then onwards with difficulty to an easing of the angle. Move rightwards to enter a shallow scoop and up this with difficulty to easier ground. Continue up the wall (wires) past a thread to belays on the large ledge. Abseil off. © Rockfax

FA. M.Edwards 1998

td72 11/Feb/17 Lead dog

Sustained and hard. I'm not much of a slab climber but it felt desperate at times. Bloody good though. It felt more like 7c than 7b I thought from the description i might need some wires so i took a medium set of nuts with me, didn't really need them as it is fully bolted however i did place 1 in the overhanging flake as it looked (and was) a hard move coming off the top of it with your bolt by your feet and above a ledge. I also placed a wire at the top behind a small flake as it gets a bit run out up there. Crux was super techy, just after a scoop you have to leave the comfort of good holds and smear your way up to the most heinous of crimps for the left hand then do an equally hanious right foot to hand. unfortunately i came off here. I did it on double ropes so i could rappel off but by the end they were getting super heavy and dragged a lot. The top ledge where the bolts are has a lot of loose rocks when up there and when pulling ropes i had to be really careful not to knock any down and still bought down quite a few.

with Katie
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1