3 pitches. In the last couple of weeks, and many years after the first ascent with Chris King, I have reclimbed this route twice, the second time leading all of it. The description is as per the FRCC guide but the following notes may help. On pitch 1, the block can be hand traversed or foot traversed. Both ways felt like 5b (just for a move) to me, but others think 5a, so right on the cusp perhaps. On pitch 2, once above the small roof, move right, then back left and step left again until under a small overlap. Just above and left of this is a small hidden crack that accepts a yellow WC Zero micro cam and a black Totem Cam (and looks as if it would take a wire), both excellent placements. How we missed this crack on the first ascent I do not know but it considerably lessens the run out and we felt probably reduces the grade from E2 to E1, but the grade is still for the second pitch, not the first. The technical grade of this second pitch we felt to be 5a rather than 5a/b. Overall, the climb is on amazing clean rough rock throughout with tremendous exposure and (now with better protection) deserves three stars.

Grade and stars now updated in line with the F.A's notes above.

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