UKC

90m.

SMC Description
90m. This route climbs near the left side, finishing by a shallow, parallel sided, roofed slot near the left boundary of the upper slabs. Start at a triangular recess at the bottom left corner of the face. Go right up the obvious slanting line; hard to start but it soon banks up. With no build-up it is V,6 and is climbed by moving up left on hooks, makeing a long step right and then either climbing through the apex of the triangular recess, or stepping right again onto slabs.
Climb the wide but shallow chimney, passing the capping roof on the right wall (distinct crux). It is easier when icy but, this only occurs in prime conditions. © SMC


ClimberDateStyle
Jack.H.92 18/Feb AltLd
Matt Cooke 18/Feb AltLd O/S
tbm 16/Feb Lead

First pitch only, fading light

with Tom
glaramara 12/Feb Lead

Fell on my very first bit of gear about 2m off the ground! Rest of the route was a lot more fun and less embarrassing. So called crux pitch is more straightforward but more intimidating.

with rich hughes
astirling 12/Feb 2nd
geoff b 12/Feb AltLd

A great route, lots of interesting climbing & well protected.

with Dr. Nick
Colin Dyer 12/Feb Lead

Great fun. Crag is in brilliant condition at the moment. It’s all about that top section.

nniff 11/Feb AltLd

Fine little route. Masses of gear, such that rationing was needed

Tim Sparrow 11/Feb AltLd

Fine route, plenty of interest. Ccccold!

with nniff
K Mckay 11/Feb AltLd
with Paul Gibbison
martinbettridge06 10/Feb Lead O/S

some digging required for gear, but good fun.

Ian Saxton 10/Feb 2nd

First mixed route, quality climbing

metrorat 08/Feb AltLd O/S

Soft and cruddy snow about with temps around 0. Cracks largely ice free. Very well protected, steep and fun. In 3 pitches and some easy ground.

Hidden 08/Feb AltLd
J Whittaker 05/Feb 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Feb Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Feb 2nd
J.Panczuk 04/Feb Lead
with A.Bukowski
Hidden 04/Feb Lead RP
Hidden 03/Feb Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Feb 2nd O/S
George.D 25/Jan 2nd
rockstott 22/Jan Lead
Hidden 21/Jan AltLd O/S
nvalentine760 21/Jan AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jan AltLd
mike.moss 21/Jan AltLd O/S
with Kirill
Alex Riley 19/Jan AltLd O/S

Lots of fun, in good nick

with Rhys
BPaske 12/Jan AltLd
with Martin
OliverRoss 08/Jan Lead O/S

The start felt harder than the usual crux with the current build up, but otherwise great condition. Lead as 3 pitches

with AlistairBerridge, Alasdair Dickinson
AlistairBerridge 08/Jan 2nd O/S

Big day out, really enjoyed the route after the starting move (which I found to be the crux).

with Alasdair Dickinson, OliverRoss
jpc1 04/Jan AltLd

Excellent route. Lean conditions. Tom lead first couple of pitches. Great effort on first pitch. I lead top pitch. Steep but positive hooks. Good fun

with Dave S, Tom
rockstott 03/Jan AltLd
Mine2209 03/Jan AltLd
Butler! 02/Jan 2nd
ESmith 02/Jan 2nd O/S
with Ian, IggyGoesPop
Robertgiddy 02/Jan Lead
with Butler!
iainballantyne 02/Jan AltLd O/S

Nice wee route

with Emma Smith, IggyGoesPop
Rhys Deane ?/Jan AltLd
Hidden ??/2018 -
adam clarke 29/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Climbed as 5 (!) pitches, partly due to other parties on route. Led p1 (to base of first gully/chimney), p3 (second chimney), and p5 (from top of icy grooves/ledges to top, including crux chimney). Lack of ice/neve and unconsolidated powder made the route hard work, digging for gear/placements, but bomber hooks when found

with James Hulme
guitarshane 29/Dec/17 AltLd rpt

Really good fun route with some tricky moves. Bit of verglass and a good build up of rime at the moment. Busy coire today

with Ben Gibson
lanky 16/Dec/17 AltLd
with Rich
Hidden 12/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Dónal Murray 11/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Buried in powder. Very interesting line with enjoyable climbing all the way, felt a bit bold in places but the hooks are bomber if you find them.

with Joe Barlow
RClothier 09/Dec/17 -
mark-abz 01/Dec/17 AltLd
with carr0t
carr0t 01/Dec/17 -
Hidden 01/Dec/17 AltLd
mattc 27/Nov/17 Lead rpt

Climbed first half the day before but got lost and ended up on the melting pot then fell off.

with mdjb
Andy Clark 26/Nov/17 AltLd
mdjb 26/Nov/17 2nd
Hidden 26/Nov/17 AltLd
planetmarshall 25/Nov/17 Lead

The crux was getting off the ground. The chimney itself was fun.

alexm198 24/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Dave stole all the good pitches! Great climbing, didn't think P1 was particularly difficult.

with davkeo
davkeo 24/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

P1 & 3. Pitch 1 was tricky & iced up. Probably the crux today. P3 was a 40+ meters of pure mixed enjoyment. Excellent climbing. V windy on top. Good turf. Harder than The Message

DaveThexton 24/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
with Joe salter, Sasha doyle
Zoomer 10/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Mid thaw but a cracking route. Hooks and gear clear but little snow made it difficult.

with Sean
swmackey 10/Mar/17 AltLd
with Zoomer
R Brown 04/Mar/17 2nd O/S
with Pete Dollman
neal 03/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Led P1 (rightwards slanting line) and P3 final corner. P1 a little thin, useless powder over ledges, but not difficult. P2 & 3 lovely, good gear and placements.

with Stuart Mcleod
Jamie Skelton 03/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
with Jacob Phillips
jamieevans 02/Mar/17 Lead

With the two Andys, great fun, some ice in places, good turf.

Hidden 05/Feb/17 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/17 -
Neil McA 14/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
with Stan
DavidMcK 05/Jan/17 AltLd O/S

In pretty lean conditions, lead 1st and 3rd pitches. Really fun route with great gear and bomber hooks.

with AliRLee
AliRLee 05/Jan/17 Lead rpt

Lead the same pitches but as fun as always. First pitch was a bit sketch with all the verglass

cacheson 11/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Nice first route of the season before the thaw. In 2 pitches, led long P1 which had a tough move then was pretty steady, Jake led P2 which was harder and sustained. Upper pitch fantastic.

with Jake
Chrismith 17/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Early start before it warmed up. Full on winter conditions today, a battle against constant icy spindrift and freezing strong winds. Route was buried which meant lots of excavation for axe placements with useless rotten ice lower down but nicer higher up. Some rime and hoar to make things a little harder too (why not?) Topped out in the typical cairngorm hurricane. Its warming up though and was noticeable on the walk out from the coire...delighted to get this done as we have previously walked away from it twice before due to it being out of condition. Great end to my winter season!

guitarshane 17/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/16 AltLd
Garry_C 09/Mar/16 2nd

First experience of the Cairngorms, pretty snowed up. Exciting moves but well protected

with Nathan
Nathan Adam 09/Mar/16 Lead rpt

Hoared up and buried in places with icy cracks around, a good contrast to last time! Roof is exciting but well protected. Climbed the main difficulties in two long pitches. Excellent climbing.

Hidden 03/Mar/16 AltLd
Roger Pyddoke 28/Feb/16 AltLd
with Alex
Ste Ridd 27/Feb/16 AltLd
manmike 27/Feb/16 Lead
mikecollins 27/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/16 2nd
Hidden 25/Feb/16 AltLd
Hidden 23/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Rhys Macallister 22/Feb/16 AltLd

this was in excellent condition, technically interesting with a really stylish corner pitch. really cool route!

with jack doyle
Hidden 22/Feb/16 AltLd
Hidden 22/Feb/16 2nd O/S
MSchobitz 20/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Pretty stiff second pitch. Rubbish cruddy snow didn't help.

with Adrian D
Marek Raganowicz 15/Feb/16 Solo
Hidden 09/Feb/16 Lead
Mike Dudley 08/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Me P1, Jonnie P2.

jonnie3430 08/Feb/16 AltLd
with mike
JackM92 31/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Well protected and fun.

Hidden 31/Jan/16 2nd
Hidden 31/Jan/16 Lead dnf
NickNixon 29/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
Pete Graham 28/Jan/16 Lead
with Gael, Jeremy
Martin McKenna - UKC 27/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
with Sara From Sweden
jamiefoxen 09/Jan/16 AltLd
with AndyL
AndyL 09/Jan/16 AltLd dog
mountain musher ??/2016 -
AmyG 25/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
RClothier 25/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
with AmyG
Hugh Simons 12/Dec/15 AltLd G/U

In 3 pitches, led 1st and crux 3rd. Took my first winter fall off the crux, but got alright 2nd go. Great route!

with AliRLee
AliRLee 12/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
chapmand 28/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
with Johannes
calumhicks 28/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
with Gareth
Johannes Petersen 28/Nov/15 AltLd
Liam Watson ?/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
mzchambers 04/Mar/15 AltLd rpt

lead second pitch. Made the roof a lot harder then it need to be.

with Nathan
Nathan Adam 04/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch which had a tricky and unprotected move at the start. Easier to the belay after, a fine lead from Mark up the top pitch! Excellent climbing.

rob16 25/Feb/15 AltLd
with Matt Brook
Hidden 22/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
akhughes 20/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Work

Hidden ?/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Dave Douglas 29/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

A bit lean so felt more V 6.

freudy_love 29/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
with Dave Douglas
jamiefoxen 28/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with david allan
davemccrave666 28/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Dec/14 AltLd
wi11 13/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
robpartridge 13/Dec/14 AltLd
with wi11
rockaddiction ?/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Harry Holmes 05/Nov/14 Lead
Roberttaylor 05/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

I led p2 and p4, Harry led both the cruxes.

with Harry Holmes
Hidden 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
mzchambers 14/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Ewan lead second picth. Snowly and well backed out first picth

with Ewan
Hidden 13/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Ralfy 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
with Paul Cubbins
The Bad Cough 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
with Ralfy
Tim Rodgers 11/Jan/14 AltLd
with Chris Down
LP 05/Jan/14 2nd O/S

Third day of winter climbing course - felt like I actually climbed today and didn't just flounder about! Thanks to the guys who gave us advice on the second pitch. Winter climbing is a friendly place to be! Psyched for more now!

MrRiley 04/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Busy at the crag but very sociable! Lots of powder, some useful ice but heavily iced cracks made this feel quite serious. A superb couple of pitches with the top corner to the right of the roof providing the technical highlight. Did in two long pitches but more like 110m rather than 90.

masa-alpin 04/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

James lead P1 and I, P2. Due to powder snow, the gear was hard to find. P1 had some useful ice, but P2 hardly did. The tech-6 crux in P2 was 20-30 metres up the belay with insecure placements with no 100%-trustable gear from the belay - very serious...

Debbie Lee 04/Jan/14 AltLd
with MrRiley
saffy ?/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Alexclimbs ??/2014 AltLd

Great route, all pitches interesting with a cracking top pitch.

alasdair19 ??/2014 -
GordonAinslie ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 30/Dec/13 AltLd
oliverk 07/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Nicola
Hidden ?/Dec/13 Lead
Hidden 25/Nov/13 AltLd
Hidden 25/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
luckyjim 10/Nov/13 AltLd
with D Helm
Wojttek 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Danii
Hidden 29/Jan/13 2nd
D.Russell ?/Jan/13 Lead O/S

With pitch 1 of no blue skies...

ClimberNic ??/2013 -
with Ollie
jazzyjackson 02/Dec/12 AltLd

1st pitch piss. Pitches 2 and 3 good. V cold today.

with JAMES K
Yourlead 29/Nov/12 2nd

Buttress's well hoared up and deep snow making progress slow. Great route with fantastic top pitch.

with Graham Penny
jonnie3430 26/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
with Will, Henry
tom.e 03/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
with Calum
johannes 05/Feb/12 Lead
IceBun 05/Feb/12 AltLd

Very enjoyable and a special thanks to the two German lads who let us through for the top pitch

Dangerous Dave 05/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Gid route.

with IceBun
Peter Holder 05/Feb/12 Lead
Nille 05/Feb/12 2nd O/S
mux 28/Jan/12 -

BMC Winter Meet

with Jan Svrcek
benclimbing 14/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Great climb and an awesome line. The bottom was a bit thin so felt technical but higher up it was well rimed and all the turf was frozen

with graham boistelle, guy steven
Hidden 06/Jan/12 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
connor 05/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

lead 1st longer pitch, willy got the last two, super late start and my first 6 lead. UHIMC at the SMC rayburn hut. good few days shredding !!!!!

with willey
Hidden 04/Jan/12 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2012 -
thewallace ??/2012 -
stuaart 30/Dec/11 AltLd dnf

Not much snow about, and in very lean / difficult condition. Did everything but the very top pitch, and backed off due to darkness arriving.

with John Nelson
Andrew Sloan 18/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

Led middle pitch. Quite a tough first winter route of the season.

Dunx 18/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
with Steve Holmes
Martin Haworth 18/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
steev 16/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
with Alex P
mark88 16/Dec/11 2nd
with Andy Woolston
David Sherratt 15/Dec/11 Lead
Hidden 15/Dec/11 2nd
Hannah Evans 12/Dec/11 2nd
Ken Applegate 12/Dec/11 Lead

Led in two pitches. First few moves are quite lean at the moment. Crux pitch was good fun! Went and climbed The Message straight after.

Tom Livingstone 11/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
with samrad
samrad 11/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

tricky first few moves with no neve and some thin hooks. linked 1&2 then followed third pitch as it went dark. good hooks behind chock stones through the roof, not too technical.

with tom livingstone
climbing_wiggy 10/Dec/11 AltLd dog

fluffed up the crux at top of 2nd pitch, rested on rope then did it clean

with Leon
Big Lee 10/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

First winter route of the season. Excellent third pitch but some good climbing throughout. Led pitches 2 & 3. Finished after dark but no epic... just lots of queuing! Crux needed some care as no reliable neve.

Ryan Wilson 10/Dec/11 AltLd
with Big Lee
Lenny 10/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

Got some photos of the party in front, can email them on if you contact me.

with Paul
Hidden 07/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Dec/11 AltLd
centurion05 ?/Dec/11 Lead O/S
Natalie feather ?/Nov/11 AltLd
Jen Crook 10/Feb/11 AltLd

Lead second pitch

with Jocky Marr
bsavage 23/Jan/11 AltLd dnf

Climbed 1st two pitches. Only thin covering of ice. Had to bail out after 2nd pitch to the left up the snow ramp, so I could catch train. Will be back for the top crux pitch :P

with Beau Fraser
Hidden 23/Jan/11 Lead
simon_D 19/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Neil C
Hidden 07/Jan/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
David Sherratt ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 27/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
abbeywall 12/Dec/10 AltLd

led first pitch. variable snow from bomber neve and ice to crud. Gear easy to find and place.

with FM
Pete Graham 21/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with malx
andybroadway 20/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Colwyn Jones, Matt Munro
MonkeyDawson 20/Mar/10 AltLd
with Bob Foster
buzby78 14/Mar/10 Lead

Nice route

with Patryk
Hidden 06/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Em66 06/Feb/10 2nd

first technical winter climb, really good fun!

david morse 06/Feb/10 AltLd

Whiteout all day, took an hour to find the mess of pottage. Heavy rime all the way up, took my first proper winter whipper off the top corner. Awesome day out!

with Jack+Em
Hidden 30/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
mulletcocktail2000 30/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with mark and scott
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Tile Diver ??/2010 AltLd O/S

Tough Climbing

with Chris Barrow
Hidden ??/2010 -
markjarvie 18/Dec/09 AltLd
with adw07
Hidden 18/Dec/09 AltLd dnf
lachlan 13/Dec/09 Lead
with daniel sutherland
Daniel Sutherland 13/Dec/09 2nd O/S
with lachlan
Hidden 12/Dec/09 AltLd
Hidden 10/Dec/09 AltLd dog
joe larner 10/Dec/09 AltLd

Had my axes in what i thought was bomber neve atop the crux. Turns out it wasn't and next thing i knew i was cartwheeling backwards down the gully. Unhurt (except my pride) i continued to the top slightly less spectacularly.

whispering nic 08/Dec/09 AltLd dnf

McGeek fell off the end of the last pitch. And landed on me. After the hole his crampon made in my leg started bleeding we bailed out!

with McGeek
blouise 29/Nov/09 -
Andy Moles 29/Nov/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3. Finished after dark to pretty desperate conditions on the plateau.

with Becky, Rozzy
Alco-nomic ?/Nov/09 AltLd
with Andy Wardle
John Kettle 01/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
dave_tomlin ?/Feb/09 -
with Tom Evans
Hidden 24/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Ally Baba 24/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Gav Swinton
Dougie Harvey 24/Jan/09 2nd O/S
BallsOfSteel 14/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
with plummet
John Kettle ?/Jan/09 AltLd
with ewen
ewen ?/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Dec/08 AltLd
Hidden 09/Mar/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Mar/08 2nd
FrankW 15/Feb/08 Solo O/S
with None
peterp ?/Feb/08 AltLd
with Mark
Alco-nomic ??/2008 AltLd
Jamie B 11/Dec/07 AltLd

Not overly technical but top chimney is pushy and difficulties are sustained early season. Very good route.

with Campbell West
Hidden 10/Dec/07 AltLd
mikecopp 14/Mar/07 AltLd
with Helena R
sgl 25/Feb/07 AltLd
with Mick & Audrius
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Mar/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/06 2nd
Rob Pitt ??/2006 -
Neil Adams ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
alpinist63 ?/Feb/05 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/05 2nd O/S
andyinglis ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with neil adams
k2scott ??/2004 -
Jamie Simpson ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Andy Munro
Haglington ?/Dec/03 2nd O/S
with Viv Scott
NeilGriffiths 02/Jan/03 Lead
with Paul Tucker
Dave Kerr 07/Dec/02 AltLd
with Richard Jewell, Matt Dent
DerwentDiluted ?/Jan/02 2nd
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
Hidden ??/2001 -
Hidden ?/Nov/00 AltLd
Dave Almond ?/Mar/00 Lead
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
Hidden 02/Feb/97 AltLd O/S
Andy Clark 02/Feb/97 AltLd
with Burnsie
James Gordon ??/1997 -
tlr 03/Feb/96 AltLd
with Chris Harvey
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Nov/95 AltLd
with Pete Benson
Yourlead 08/Dec/94 AltLd dnf

Climbed 1st pitch of The Message, but due to weather & conditions traversed into Honey Pott then left into Topless - Great climbing but cannot claim a route

with Graham Penny
pingora 11/Dec/93 2nd O/S
with Blaggers
charlesmfrench ??/1992 AltLd O/S

With Tom too. L,L,2.

with Angela Short, Stan
46 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 48
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set