1. Start up a broad fin with laybacks to a reasonable ledge. Belay.

2. Easier ground leads to a technical corner.

3. Climb the corner, turning left at the top to gain, (awkwardly with rucksack) a leftwards traverse with sensational exposure. In situ peg runner midway along the traverse. Belay at the end of the traverse.

3. Climb less technical ground to the top.

4. Abseil back into the gully below.

A better route description:

1. Climb slabby cracks on the right hand side of the toe of the buttress heading for an obvious spike of rock at the top of the first steepening. Step right into a thinner crack when the left hand crack widens before rejoining it higher up.

2. Climb steep but easy blocky ground up and right to an easy snow gully beneath a huge steep left facing wall. Belay at the end of the gully below another broken steep wall (in situ spike belay to the right of the wall).

3. Climb the steep broken wall up and left to pull up on to a small ledge. Shuffle across this to another left facing steep corner with a slab above. Climb the corner (lots of in situ gear) and then the continuation corner before pull up and right onto easy ground to avoid the steepest section. Two in situ abseil points above, or move further right to the abseil point on The Lamp to descend into Aladdins Couloir, or carry on up easy terrain to the top.

Ticklists

Cairngorm Winter Climbs , Winter 2018 Dreamlist , Winter 2018/19 , January Scotland Mission

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