1. Start up a broad fin with laybacks to a reasonable ledge. Belay.

2. Easier ground leads to a technical corner.

3. Climb the corner, turning left at the top to gain, (awkwardly with rucksack) a leftwards traverse with sensational exposure. In situ peg runner midway along the traverse. Belay at the end of the traverse.

3. Climb less technical ground to the top.

4. Abseil back into the gully below.


Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 17/Mar -
Sam Simpson 05/Mar 2nd rpt
with Suzana El Massri
Hidden 05/Mar Lead
Hidden 13/Feb AltLd O/S
Sam Simpson 13/Feb AltLd

lead pitch 2 and the cruxy corner, great route, and nice clear views at the top

CRead 12/Feb Lead O/S

Botch's first winter route, some pretty tricky sessions so top effort! Great fun

with Botch
mark-abz 12/Feb AltLd
robgixer 11/Feb Lead O/S
with Charley
abbeywall 11/Feb AltLd rpt

As three pitches. Led the last bit out and then down the couloir

with FM
charleybaby5287 11/Feb 2nd
philippoc93 09/Feb 2nd β

Lead by Calum and completed in 3 pitches. Abseiled off the top after a tricky final pitch. Good conditions

Barry Harper 05/Feb 2nd

Great Technical climbing on both pitches. last section to the ab point was exciting! Fair bit of new snow on the route, nothing usable, and all turf frozen. Surprised not to see anyone on the route all day.

Hidden 05/Feb Lead
Charlie Zephyr Booth 14/Jan AltLd
with ian armstrong
Hidden 20/Nov/16 AltLd
liamando 19/Nov/16 Lead

Fun climbing first IV,5 didn't envisage a 5 being such little foot holds at times but fun climbing lost Mark after the first pitch due to illness so lowered him into the gully and Alex and I continued up

with Alex Stevenson, Mark Brimms
guy757 30/Mar/16 -
cdoclarky59 30/Mar/16 2nd
HimTiggins 28/Mar/16 Lead O/S
annep 02/Mar/16 AltLd
mcglenr25 01/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Matthew Jackson
Kevin Woods 29/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

P2 of 2. Wild weather, abbed off in two (20m to in situ belay, 40? metres to gully)

with Nick Donohue, Tom Lawfield
nickdonohue 29/Feb/16 AltLd

Super climbing on both pitch 1 (my lead) and 2 (Kev's). Pitch 2 is probably the best as its most sustained.

with Kevin Woods, Tom Lawfield
Carol Goodall 27/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch up slabs. Beautiful clear day with little wind. Mostly good neve on the snowy parts.

with Tom Jenkins, Jonnie Williams
jonnie3430 27/Feb/16 AltLd rpt
with Carol Goodall, Tom
sadams 26/Feb/16 AltLd
with Eric Hildrew
LJC 25/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Rubbish snow conditions made for hard work on the lower section. Top traverse and technical corner were great.

Chris Oldfield 22/Feb/16 2nd O/S
with James Buckley
j.buckley87 22/Feb/16 Lead O/S
MSchobitz 21/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Start was trickier than expected. Iced up cracks didn't help. Ledge traverse was fantastic!

with USMC
mattlyons 20/Feb/16 2nd
Hidden 19/Feb/16 AltLd
geoff b 14/Feb/16 AltLd

Sustained climbing on P1 but well protected. P2 was pleasant. P3's bulges were tricky and I was defeated by the desperate escape from the top, with no ice/turf/neve/rock to pull on. We rapped off only to read in another guidebook that it traversed off along the flake; aaarghh!

with Dr. Nick
centurion05 13/Feb/16 AltLd
with patch
Hidden 13/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
alexm198 07/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Against all odds, managed to get a route done in some of the most berserk conditions I've climbed in. Started at about 1:30pm. In 2 pitches, led P1. Corner at the top looks improbable for a IV 5 but it's all there. P1 was quite tenuous with 60mph+ gusts, spindrift and a complete absence of neve!

with Alasdair Blackshaw
RebekahD 31/Jan/16 2nd O/S
with Calum, Erik
HosteDenis 31/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

We climbed the first pitch of The Lamp (V, 6) and continued up the more interesting looking Original Summer Route. After we abseiled off the top we didn't have enough time left for another longer route, so then did the first pitch of Original Summer Route as well

with Friedemann
ErikAndersen 31/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

One of Bekahs crampons fell apart half way up pitch one, luckily I was below and able to put it back together while she perched on a stance. Made for an interesting route!

with Bekah, Calum
Hidden 31/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
franhammond92 30/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Lead all but about 8m from the top of the snow ramp but Dave was trying to go the wrong (overly exposed) way so passed it over to me. Awesome climbing in awful weather

with alistringer, David Robinnette
GordonAinslie 27/Jan/16 -

Tricky conditions, mostly reliant hooks all the way. BMC meet

JackM92 23/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Nice steady climbing although turf not 100% solid on P1

67hours 16/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

I lead the first half. Started via the left hand cracking only (spicy) until below the start of pitch 3. Powdery. But super route. Continued all the way to the plateau.

with Willy
jamiefoxen 16/Jan/16 AltLd
davemccrave666 16/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Great route. Excellent exposure on the traverse. Some tricky moves afterward finding the right axe placements due to the powder. Fun times!

with Jamie
Hidden 16/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
MC 09/Jan/16 -

Unconsolidated today with no ice to be seen. Found it very hard and thank god for a little bit of turf

with Shane Younie
guitarshane 09/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
with MC
Harry Ellis 14/Dec/15 AltLd

Two good pitches, crux on first ramp. Good lead under powder by Chris.

Chrismith 14/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Powder and spindrift meant lots of digging. Wandered up to the plateau after the route as the sun went down, clear sky's, stunning...

benclimbing 13/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
jonskippy 13/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
Hugh Simons 12/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

In 2 pitches, led 2nd. Some hard moves, but not too bad. First pitch was quite thin so good on Ali for leading that. 2nd was more secure but more physical. Abbed off the in situ tat at the top as the light was fading.

with Ali
chapmand 12/Dec/15 Lead rpt
with Martyn
AliRLee 12/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
rockstott 12/Dec/15 2nd
Roberttaylor 22/Nov/15 AltLd O/S

Felt hard in the conditions (powder, no buildup)

Hidden ?/Nov/15 AltLd
Hidden 03/Mar/15 -
Hidden 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Matt Cooke 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Jack.H.92 07/Feb/15 AltLd
Hidden 04/Feb/15 2nd
OliverRoss 03/Feb/15 2nd O/S
with Tom Redmond, Josh Willet
Euan Todd 01/Feb/15 2nd O/S

MCofS winter climber's weekend. Led the easy pitch in the middle. Our guide from Glenmore led the rest.

The Grist 25/Jan/15 Lead
with Helen harrison
Cardi 17/Jan/15 2nd O/S

Hard for the grade with unconsolidated snow, more like tech 6

with Jon W
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Hidden 27/Dec/14 Solo rpt
abbeywall 13/Dec/14 AltLd

3 pitches., combining 1 and 2. Led second pitch traverse and corners.

with FM
colenn 25/Mar/14 2nd
Rob N 25/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
liamo333 25/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with colenn, Rob Noone
stanleynkk 06/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Nice route in lean condition, too much fixed gear though.

with Danny Barden
danny269 06/Mar/14 AltLd

very thin conditions

with Stan
Hidden 02/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/14 Lead
Hidden 24/Feb/14 Lead O/S
phil64 06/Feb/14 Lead
with kj001
kj001 06/Feb/14 2nd

Nice exposure on short leftward s traverse.

gergosantha 27/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Direct start V,6, with my host, David Sykes, BMC Winter Meet 2014. Horrible weather.

davesykes 27/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Good lead in v difficult conditions on tricky variation start - well worth doing and hard to protect - traverse is nice and airy. 2 pitches.

with Greg
Hidden 23/Jan/14 2nd O/S
mike.moss 18/Jan/14 Lead O/S
benwmorgan 18/Jan/14 2nd β
Ly-Cilph 13/Jan/14 Lead O/S

Good value for a IV, I'd say. Lovely exposure!

with Jen M
davebrox 12/Jan/14 AltLd

Good conditions on Alladins buttress, sugary elsewhere!

Hidden 12/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
SuperMike64 12/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
adam clarke 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Jim led P1, Adam led P2, then easy ground to descend by Aladdin's Couloir. First grade IV; seemed quite easy conditions with gear available

with James Hulme
Hidden 10/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Richard Thombs 10/Jan/14 2nd O/S

Great snow all the way, technical start and a few hard moves before topping out too. A great day in fantastic conditions.

with Mark Walker
connor 09/Jan/14 -

Super neve all the way

with konrad doyle
davesa 09/Jan/14 AltLd
lcullum7 08/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

In 2 pitches. P1

Matt Harle 07/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Marti999 06/Jan/14 Lead O/S

Melting fast but out of wind.

with Debbie
Brucemacrosson 05/Jan/14 AltLd

perfect nick

with Ewan Paterson
Hidden ?/Jan/14 Lead dnf
GordonAinslie ??/2014 -
alasdair19 ??/2014 -
Andrew Sloan 30/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Really good route. Initial groove quite technical but well protected. Brilliant and intimidating traverse higher up. Did as 2 pitches and abseiled off at the top.

Martin Haworth 30/Dec/13 AltLd

Very good route. Bit of a slip when leading secong pitch which had Andy worried. First pitch felt tech 6, maybe I'm just out of practice.

with Andy
luckyjim 07/Dec/13 AltLd
with D Helm
Hidden ?/Dec/13 Lead
Debbie Lee 09/Nov/13 AltLd
with Ric, Dave Riley
MrRiley 09/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

A very good value route and a good option as it didn't rely on turf. The first pitch has some great moves and the the third packs a punch!

with Richard Hines, Debbie Lee
Hidden ?/Nov/13 -
jamieevans 19/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Excellent conditions, soft shells and sunglasses

Hidden 17/Mar/13 2nd dog
piersnewton 23/Feb/13 2nd
ollyroberts 23/Feb/13 Lead O/S

All pitches!

grp 01/Feb/13 AltLd

variation start, interesting climbing

jon_ridley 01/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Geoff took the variation at V,6. Led the rest

Bob1984 28/Jan/13 2nd dnf

1st pitch

pwb1981 28/Jan/13 2nd

Did first pitch only, couldn't top out due to weather

glenngordon 16/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with pamela millar
Jasonic 14/Jan/13 -
wheelsucker ??/2013 -
simon_D 15/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

Great wee route with good situations for the grade

with Alex
Tim Rodgers 10/Dec/12 AltLd

V,6 variation

with David Forster
annep 29/Nov/12 2nd

Abbed off from below the upper tricky corner.

mwatson 24/Nov/12 -
JRae 24/Nov/12 AltLd

No ice in the groove.

ferdia 04/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

Led 1

Andy Moles 03/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
with Ferdia
Ryan Wilson 18/Feb/12 AltLd

Nice little route, heavy snow on 60mph winds...pretty grim, but good fun !

with Mike Frodsham
nia 11/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with harry
Plungeman 05/Feb/12 2nd dog

V, 6 variation. Had to rest a few times, but managed to get through the crux in nearly 1 go. Not too shabby from a previous best of III, 4. I'm told it was in hard conditions despite the powder

el cholo 05/Feb/12 Lead O/S

V 6 variation, bloody corner on P2 where the peg is, was iced up I had no choice but to use the pag as an axe placement.

with Andy Thomson
Stephi 04/Feb/12 Lead dnf

abbed off after 1st pitch because my climbing partner had extreme back pain. Didn't mind, was pretty windy!

Hidden 30/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
michael83 30/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jan/12 AltLd
BorisVBlade 04/Jan/12 Lead O/S

With direct start variation (V,6),very enjoyable outing.

with Roman, Jiefei Ma
Dave Douglas 02/Jan/12 Lead O/S

After the thaw I used my hands more than my axes. At the start of the second pitch Paul managed to move a large block just below a fixed yellow bit of rope. The blocks leading to the traverse on the second pitch also looked a bit precarious with little snow or ice to bind them, so we abseiled off. Second pitch is an accident waiting to happen. 1st pitch was good though.

freudy_love 02/Jan/12 AltLd dnf

Wasn't inspire by the ripping unfrozen turf in the snow ramp or loose tottering pile of chossy blocks above that weren't iced together and moved when pulled on, so downclimbed to the in-situ ab-tat at the top of the 1st pitch and bailed off.

with Dave Douglas
David Sherratt 11/Dec/11 AltLd
Hidden 11/Dec/11 AltLd
Andrew Wilson 04/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Did the V,6 variation start from the toe of the buttress. Did it in 2 pitches.

with Tony Womersley
DundeeDave 04/Dec/11 AltLd
robertmichaeladams 18/Mar/11 AltLd dog

must ready guidebook - desperate with little ice in the groove above the peg

with Fiona
jon clayton 01/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with sasha
mynyddresident 14/Feb/11 -

Variation start.

wolf.leeb 14/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

hard V 6 variation, heaps of pissing powder and spindrift in all directions... wild.

with nic
Hidden 10/Feb/11 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Kirill 29/Jan/11 2nd O/S

With direct finish

with Igor
ig248 29/Jan/11 AltLd

After the snow ramp at the end of the first pitch, went straight up the corner. Exciting climbing, with marginal holds and stemming off a good torque half way up.

with Kirill
AndyL 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden 15/Jan/11 2nd
frost 09/Jan/11 AltLd
with D Almond
Hidden 08/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
stuart34 02/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Gordon Lacey ?/Jan/11 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
David Sherratt ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 21/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
Ken Applegate 21/Nov/10 AltLd

Climbed in two pitches, I led P2, nice route, plenty of hooks and gear. Good situation on P2!

with Dave Buckett
Hidden 13/Nov/10 Lead
Hidden 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
geoff.comley 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Lead the first pitch to the top of the easy groove, this was my first proper mixed lead :) first grove is tricky, pat lead second crux pitch.

jason 13/Mar/10 AltLd
with manmike
manmike 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Done in 2 pitches.Did first pitch of The Lamp then continued up Original Route & got the best out of 2 good routes. Didnt see peg as mentioned in description, however a fist size rock came out while on the traverse and there is still one more awaiting, be warned.

with Jason
twoplates 11/Feb/10 2nd O/S

with variation start V/6

with dave sharpe
mulletcocktail2000 04/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

got pitches 1 and 3. hardest tech 5 i've been on to date! good climbing throughout, upper corners providing a thuggy crux.

with helen and sean
Hidden 27/Jan/10 2nd O/S
IceBun 23/Jan/10 -
Sandy Simpson 23/Jan/10 AltLd

done in two long pitches then on to the plateau really pleasing route.

Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 24/Dec/09 AltLd
Dan_S 20/Dec/09 2nd O/S
Dunx 17/Dec/09 2nd
with Mark Walker
Alco-nomic ?/Dec/09 AltLd

tough top corner

with Geoff, Andy Wardle
gregor 29/Nov/09 -
andymoin 28/Nov/09 AltLd O/S

pitch 1 and pitch 3 were awesome and contrasting. The traverse was exciting and intimidating but I found the steep corners after to be the crux.

with Warren
Hidden 28/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
WilliamBurnside 08/Mar/09 AltLd

Wild day, so a good choice in the circumstances.

with John Workman
sgl 07/Mar/09 AltLd
with Stretch
MonkeyDawson 14/Feb/09 2nd
with Jonnie 3430 and Duanne White
jonnie3430 14/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Duanne and Graham
Hidden 21/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
BallsOfSteel ??/2009 AltLd O/S
s kennedy 06/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
with tris fox
Smelly Fox 06/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
mikecopp 23/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Steve Addy
Hidden 08/Jan/08 AltLd
wheelsucker 08/Jan/08 AltLd
Alco-nomic ??/2008 AltLd
Jamie B 12/Nov/07 Lead
with Lorenzo Antelove
HIGHTOWER 15/Mar/07 2nd
with Clive
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 18/Feb/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Dec/05 AltLd
akhughes ?/Dec/05 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 28/Dec/04 AltLd
with Paul Tucker
Jamie Simpson ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Andy Munro
ArnaudG ??/2001 -
Dave Kerr 12/Nov/00 Lead
with Iain Sharpe
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
nickdonohue 05/Mar/96 AltLd
with Caley Latham
Hidden 02/Feb/95 Lead dnf
Yourlead 19/Jan/95 2nd

Wild blizzards and deep dodgy snow - Rapped Aladins.

with Graham Penny
tompercy ?/Dec/94 -
with Joel Telling
frost ?/Dec/94 AltLd
with J Turner
pingora 06/Dec/92 Lead O/S
with Cooper
Steve Crowe 10/Feb/90 AltLd O/S
Bruce Kerr 09/Dec/89 Lead
with Perric Crellin
Hidden ?/Feb/87 -
Hidden ?/Nov/84 Lead
Bob 29/Dec/82 AltLd O/S

Led the pitch with the step out left.

with D. Geere
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 48
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set