1. Start up a broad fin with laybacks to a reasonable ledge. Belay.

2. Easier ground leads to a technical corner.

3. Climb the corner, turning left at the top to gain, (awkwardly with rucksack) a leftwards traverse with sensational exposure. In situ peg runner midway along the traverse. Belay at the end of the traverse.

3. Climb less technical ground to the top.

4. Abseil back into the gully below.

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs, Winter 2018 Dreamlist, Winter 2018/19.

WTorrensa 22/Jan 2nd O/S
with Sam, Jonny Parr
BMaybee 20/Jan AltLd

Led P1

Tom Fullen 20/Jan AltLd

Done before traversing onto Pygmy ridge. Epic route with moves that feel like they don’t belong on IV, 5. Great show by Ben and Roy - some truly epic leads.

roym 20/Jan AltLd

First tech 6, led crux which was great fun to lead and even more fun to watch Ben and Tom second!

Colin Dyer 19/Jan Lead

Good route with interest and nice situations. Taking the central groove line in the crux pitch direct with no ice and under powder is V,6. Stick left to keep it on the money.

Garry_C 18/Jan AltLd O/S
with Nathan
Steve Perry 18/Jan Lead O/S

I led P1 and Andy did P2, then we abbed off. Smart route with cracking exposure.

Nathan Adam 18/Jan AltLd O/S

In two pitches, led 2nd. Hard up the corner to the abseil point but decent snowed up rock conditions and plenty gear.

Steven Andrews 16/Jan AltLd O/S

Good choice for the day with all the climbing on snowed up rock (turf only just starting to freeze). Plenty of climbing on both pitches. Nice route.

tspoon1981 02/Dec/18 -
tspoon1981 01/Dec/18 -
MarkGrant 25/Nov/18 Lead O/S

Great route! Found the steep coners after the traverse the crux and stiff for a iv. Maybe easier with neve or ice.

with John Fraiser
peater 25/Nov/18 AltLd O/S

As in the guide - a good choice under powder. Lead p. 1/2.

Connorh 23/Nov/18 AltLd O/S

P1, lean conditions good first route of the season

jackob 23/Nov/18 AltLd

Felt pretty nails i thought under todays conditions! Decent gear though!

mrbird 31/Oct/18 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Oct/18 AltLd
Hidden 31/Oct/18 2nd
CacCarnBeag 29/Oct/18 AltLd O/S
with Drew
Hidden 29/Oct/18 AltLd
judith neaves 31/Mar/18 2nd
Shaw Brown 31/Mar/18 Lead

Great choice for day as the snow was pretty cruddy. Fairly packs it for a shortish route. 3 stars for me.

davidswannn 10/Feb/18 AltLd O/S
with Ruth Love
BPaske 31/Jan/18 AltLd
with Kitty
Scoobys_last_mystery 21/Jan/18 Lead O/S

Great condition, amazing route. Partner took over lead on the last tricky pitch up the corner to the abseil, took a big fall (15m out over the wall above the couloir) and one of the pitons pulled out. I led the pitch and found excellent cam protection in the crack.

sas 07/Jan/18 AltLd O/S

Led the second easy pitch. First winter lead ☺

with Gwyd
bodovix 07/Jan/18 Lead
Hidden 07/Jan/18 -
MysteriousCeorl 04/Jan/18 AltLd

Lead the easy middle pitch

SJPowderham1 04/Jan/18 AltLd O/S
Jamie Skelton 02/Jan/18 Lead O/S
with David Gainor
Hidden 02/Jan/18 AltLd
Andrew Sloan 01/Jan/18 Lead rpt

Surprising tough first pitch, harder than I remember, as hard as the crux on The Lamp. Agnes struggled to second and short of time so abbed off after just one pitch.

with Agnes
Hidden 01/Jan/18 2nd
Rhys Deane ?/Jan/18 Lead
Hidden ??/2018 -
Steven Carter ??/2018 Lead
Alfie Maun 17/Dec/17 Lead
Dougbart 17/Dec/17 AltLd
murray 17/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

This was our plan D after plans A, B and C were ruled out by the turbo thaw- but still a very highly prized tick after my little slip off the first pitch a few years ago!

Just Will 16/Dec/17 2nd O/S
Sam Hunt 12/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Dec/17 AltLd
Simonfarfaraway 10/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

excellent route

with loz
Al_Mac 01/Dec/17 Lead O/S

Brilliant day showing Morna what Cairngorm winter's all about. No neve or ice but heavily rimed and thick with unconsolidated powder. Done in two pitches to the tat, we did the corners direct which was some brilliant climbing. The walk in and clearing was pretty laborious but any turf was well frozen underneath. Thanks to the guys who broke trail all the way to the boulder this morning! Definitely warmed up during the middle of the day but things were crisping up again by the time we got back to the bags.

Mbaillie 01/Dec/17 2nd
with Al_Mac
Hidden 17/Mar/17 -
Hidden 05/Mar/17 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Mar/17 Lead
oli_f92 15/Feb/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/17 AltLd
CRead 12/Feb/17 Lead O/S

Botch's first winter route, some pretty tricky sessions so top effort! Great fun

with Botch
mark-abz 12/Feb/17 AltLd
with carr0t
carr0t 12/Feb/17 -

Good conditions. Topped out via Aladdin's mirror. Slope and cornice are firm and in good condition also

robgixer 11/Feb/17 Lead O/S
abbeywall 11/Feb/17 AltLd rpt

As three pitches. Led the last bit out and then down the couloir

with FM
CharleyAnn 11/Feb/17 2nd
philippoc93 09/Feb/17 2nd β

Lead by Calum and completed in 3 pitches. Abseiled off the top after a tricky final pitch. Good conditions

Barry Harper 05/Feb/17 2nd

Great Technical climbing on both pitches. last section to the ab point was exciting! Fair bit of new snow on the route, nothing usable, and all turf frozen. Surprised not to see anyone on the route all day.

Hidden 05/Feb/17 Lead
Charlie Zephyr Booth 14/Jan/17 AltLd
with ian armstrong
Hidden 20/Nov/16 AltLd
Hidden 19/Nov/16 Lead
Chuck 11/Nov/16 AltLd
with DannyC
Hidden 30/Mar/16 -
elclarko 30/Mar/16 2nd
HimTiggins 28/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Jenn_Stretton 03/Mar/16 2nd
DaveThexton 03/Mar/16 Lead O/S
annep 02/Mar/16 AltLd
mcglenr25 01/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Matthew Jackson
Hidden 29/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue 29/Feb/16 AltLd

Super climbing on both pitch 1 (my lead) and 2 (Kev's). Pitch 2 is probably the best as its most sustained.

with Kevin Woods, Tom Lawfield
Carol Goodall 27/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch up slabs. Beautiful clear day with little wind. Mostly good neve on the snowy parts.

with Tom Jenkins, jonnie3430
jonnie3430 27/Feb/16 AltLd rpt
with Carol Goodall, Tom
sadams 26/Feb/16 AltLd
with Eric Hildrew
LucaC 25/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Rubbish snow conditions made for hard work on the lower section. Top traverse and technical corner were great.

Chris Oldfield 22/Feb/16 2nd O/S
with James Buckley
j.buckley87 22/Feb/16 Lead O/S
MSchobitz 21/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Start was trickier than expected. Iced up cracks didn't help. Ledge traverse was fantastic!

with USMC
mattlyons 20/Feb/16 2nd
Hidden 19/Feb/16 AltLd
jpc1 19/Feb/16 AltLd
geoff b 14/Feb/16 AltLd

Sustained climbing on P1 but well protected. P2 was pleasant. P3's bulges were tricky and I was defeated by the desperate escape from the top, with no ice/turf/neve/rock to pull on. We rapped off only to read in another guidebook that it traversed off along the flake; aaarghh!

with Dr. Nick
centurion05 13/Feb/16 AltLd
Hidden 13/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
alexm198 07/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Against all odds, managed to get a route done in some of the most berserk conditions I've climbed in. Started at about 1:30pm. In 2 pitches, led P1. Corner at the top looks improbable for a IV 5 but it's all there. P1 was quite tenuous with 60mph+ gusts, spindrift and a complete absence of neve!

with Alasdair Blackshaw
RebekahD 31/Jan/16 2nd O/S
with Calum, ErikAndersen
HosteDenis 31/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

We climbed the first pitch of The Lamp (V, 6) and continued up the more interesting looking Original Summer Route. After we abseiled off the top we didn't have enough time left for another longer route, so then did the first pitch of Original Summer Route as well

with Friedemann
Hidden 31/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
franhammond92 30/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Lead all but about 8m from the top of the snow ramp but Dave was trying to go the wrong (overly exposed) way so passed it over to me. Awesome climbing in awful weather

with alistringer, David Robinnette
GordonAinslie 27/Jan/16 -

Tricky conditions, mostly reliant hooks all the way. BMC meet

JackM92 23/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Nice steady climbing although turf not 100% solid on P1

67hours 16/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

I lead the first half. Started via the left hand cracking only (spicy) until below the start of pitch 3. Powdery. But super route. Continued all the way to the plateau.

jamiefoxen 16/Jan/16 AltLd
davemccrave666 16/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Great route. Excellent exposure on the traverse. Some tricky moves afterward finding the right axe placements due to the powder. Fun times!

Hidden 16/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
MC 09/Jan/16 -

Unconsolidated today with no ice to be seen. Found it very hard and thank god for a little bit of turf

with Shane Younie
guitarshane 09/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
with MC
jpc1 04/Jan/16 AltLd

Super windy.

Harry Ellis 14/Dec/15 AltLd

Two good pitches, crux on first ramp. Good lead under powder by Chris.

Chrismith 14/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Powder and spindrift meant lots of digging. Wandered up to the plateau after the route as the sun went down, clear sky's, stunning...

benclimbing 13/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
jonskippy 13/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
Hugh Simons 12/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

In 2 pitches, led 2nd. Some hard moves, but not too bad. First pitch was quite thin so good on Ali for leading that. 2nd was more secure but more physical. Abbed off the in situ tat at the top as the light was fading.

with AliRLee
chapmand 12/Dec/15 Lead rpt
AliRLee 12/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
rockstott 12/Dec/15 2nd
Roberttaylor 22/Nov/15 AltLd O/S

Felt hard in the conditions (powder, no buildup)

Hidden ?/Nov/15 AltLd
Hidden 03/Mar/15 -
Hidden 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Matt Cooke 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Jack.H.92 07/Feb/15 AltLd
Hidden 04/Feb/15 2nd
Hidden 04/Feb/15 2nd
OliverRoss 03/Feb/15 2nd O/S
with Tom Redmond, Josh Willett
Euan Todd 01/Feb/15 2nd O/S

MCofS winter climber's weekend. Led the easy pitch in the middle. Our guide from Glenmore led the rest.

The Grist 25/Jan/15 Lead
with Helen harrison
Cardi 17/Jan/15 2nd O/S

Hard for the grade with unconsolidated snow, more like tech 6

with Jon W
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Hidden 27/Dec/14 Solo rpt
abbeywall 13/Dec/14 AltLd

3 pitches., combining 1 and 2. Led second pitch traverse and corners.

with FM
colenn 25/Mar/14 2nd
Rob N 25/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
liamo333 25/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with colenn, Rob Noone
stanleynkk 06/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Nice route in lean condition, too much fixed gear though.

with Danny Barden
danny269 06/Mar/14 AltLd

very thin conditions

with Stan
Hidden 02/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/14 Lead
Hidden 24/Feb/14 Lead O/S
phil64 06/Feb/14 Lead
with kj001
kj001 06/Feb/14 2nd

Nice exposure on short leftward s traverse.

with phil64
Mark Stevenson 28/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
gergosantha 27/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Direct start V,6, with my host, David Sykes, BMC Winter Meet 2014. Horrible weather.

davesykes 27/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Good lead in v difficult conditions on tricky variation start - well worth doing and hard to protect - traverse is nice and airy. 2 pitches.

Hidden 23/Jan/14 2nd O/S
mike.moss 18/Jan/14 Lead O/S
benwmorgan 18/Jan/14 2nd β
Ly-Cilph 13/Jan/14 Lead O/S

Good value for a IV, I'd say. Lovely exposure!

with Jen M
davebrox 12/Jan/14 AltLd

Good conditions on Alladins buttress, sugary elsewhere!

Hidden 12/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
SuperMike64 12/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
adam clarke 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Jim led P1, Adam led P2, then easy ground to descend by Aladdin's Couloir. First grade IV; seemed quite easy conditions with gear available

with James Hulme
Hidden 10/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Richard Thombs 10/Jan/14 2nd O/S

Great snow all the way, technical start and a few hard moves before topping out too. A great day in fantastic conditions.

with Mark Walker
connor 09/Jan/14 -

Super neve all the way

with konrad doyle
davesa 09/Jan/14 AltLd
lcullum7 08/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

In 2 pitches. P1

Matt Harle 07/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Marti999 06/Jan/14 Lead O/S

Melting fast but out of wind.

Brucemacrosson 05/Jan/14 AltLd

perfect nick

with Ewan Paterson
murray ?/Jan/14 Lead dnf

Took a small slip onto fixed gear on the first pitch.. Retreated shortly afterwards, the route was totally plastered and was not going to give any gear. Saving it for next time.

GordonAinslie ??/2014 -
alasdair19 ??/2014 -
Andrew Sloan 30/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Really good route. Initial groove quite technical but well protected. Brilliant and intimidating traverse higher up. Did as 2 pitches and abseiled off at the top.

Martin Haworth 30/Dec/13 AltLd

Very good route. Bit of a slip when leading secong pitch which had Andy worried. First pitch felt tech 6, maybe I'm just out of practice.

luckyjim 07/Dec/13 AltLd
with D Helm
Hidden ?/Dec/13 Lead
Debbie Lee 09/Nov/13 AltLd
with Ric, MrRiley
MrRiley 09/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

A very good value route and a good option as it didn't rely on turf. The first pitch has some great moves and the the third packs a punch!

with Richard Hines, Debbie Lee
Hidden ?/Nov/13 -
jamieevans 19/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Excellent conditions, soft shells and sunglasses

Hidden 17/Mar/13 2nd dog
piersnewton 23/Feb/13 2nd
ollyroberts 23/Feb/13 Lead O/S

All pitches!

grp 01/Feb/13 AltLd

variation start, interesting climbing

jon_ridley 01/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Geoff took the variation at V,6. Led the rest

with grp
Bob1984 28/Jan/13 2nd dnf

1st pitch

pwb1981 28/Jan/13 2nd

Did first pitch only, couldn't top out due to weather

glenngordon 16/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with pamela millar
Jasonic 14/Jan/13 -
wheelsucker ??/2013 -
simon_D 15/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

Great wee route with good situations for the grade

with Alex
Tim Rodgers 10/Dec/12 AltLd

V,6 variation

with David Forster
annep 29/Nov/12 2nd

Abbed off from below the upper tricky corner.

mwatson 24/Nov/12 -
JRae 24/Nov/12 AltLd

No ice in the groove.

with mwatson
ferdia 04/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

Led 1

Andy Moles 03/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
with ferdia
Ryan Wilson 18/Feb/12 AltLd

Nice little route, heavy snow on 60mph winds...pretty grim, but good fun !

with Mike Frodsham
nia 11/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Plungeman 05/Feb/12 2nd dog

V, 6 variation. Had to rest a few times, but managed to get through the crux in nearly 1 go. Not too shabby from a previous best of III, 4. I'm told it was in hard conditions despite the powder

el cholo 05/Feb/12 Lead O/S

V 6 variation, bloody corner on P2 where the peg is, was iced up I had no choice but to use the pag as an axe placement.

with Andy Thomson
Stephi 04/Feb/12 Lead dnf

abbed off after 1st pitch because my climbing partner had extreme back pain. Didn't mind, was pretty windy!

Hidden 30/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
michael83 30/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with Mark020
Hidden 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jan/12 AltLd
BorisVBlade 04/Jan/12 Lead O/S

With direct start variation (V,6),very enjoyable outing.

with Roman, Jiefei Ma
Dave Douglas 02/Jan/12 Lead O/S

After the thaw I used my hands more than my axes. At the start of the second pitch Paul managed to move a large block just below a fixed yellow bit of rope. The blocks leading to the traverse on the second pitch also looked a bit precarious with little snow or ice to bind them, so we abseiled off. Second pitch is an accident waiting to happen. 1st pitch was good though.

freudy_love 02/Jan/12 AltLd dnf

Wasn't inspire by the ripping unfrozen turf in the snow ramp or loose tottering pile of chossy blocks above that weren't iced together and moved when pulled on, so downclimbed to the in-situ ab-tat at the top of the 1st pitch and bailed off.

with Dave Douglas
David Sherratt 11/Dec/11 AltLd
Hidden 11/Dec/11 AltLd
Andrew Wilson 04/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Did the V,6 variation start from the toe of the buttress. Did it in 2 pitches.

with Tony Womersley
DundeeDave 04/Dec/11 AltLd
robertmichaellovell 18/Mar/11 AltLd dog

must ready guidebook - desperate with little ice in the groove above the peg

with Fiona
jon clayton 01/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with sasha
mynyddresident 14/Feb/11 -

Variation start.

wolf.leeb 14/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

hard V 6 variation, heaps of pissing powder and spindrift in all directions... wild.

Hidden 10/Feb/11 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Kirill 29/Jan/11 2nd

With direct finish

with ig248
ig248 29/Jan/11 AltLd

After the snow ramp at the end of the first pitch, went straight up the corner. Exciting climbing, with marginal holds and stemming off a good torque half way up.

with Kirill
AndyL 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden 15/Jan/11 2nd
frost 09/Jan/11 AltLd
with D Almond
Hidden 08/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
stuart34 02/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Gordon Lacey ?/Jan/11 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
David Sherratt ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 21/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
Ken Applegate 21/Nov/10 AltLd

Climbed in two pitches, I led P2, nice route, plenty of hooks and gear. Good situation on P2!

with Dave Buckett
Hidden 13/Nov/10 Lead
Hidden 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
geoff.comley 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Lead the first pitch to the top of the easy groove, this was my first proper mixed lead :) first grove is tricky, pat lead second crux pitch.

jason 13/Mar/10 AltLd
with manmike
manmike 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Done in 2 pitches.Did first pitch of The Lamp then continued up Original Route & got the best out of 2 good routes. Didnt see peg as mentioned in description, however a fist size rock came out while on the traverse and there is still one more awaiting, be warned.

with jason
twoplates 11/Feb/10 2nd O/S

with variation start V/6

with dave sharpe
mulletcocktail2000 04/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

got pitches 1 and 3. hardest tech 5 i've been on to date! good climbing throughout, upper corners providing a thuggy crux.

with helen and sean
Hidden 27/Jan/10 2nd O/S
IceBun 23/Jan/10 -
Sandy Simpson 23/Jan/10 AltLd

done in two long pitches then on to the plateau really pleasing route.

with IceBun
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
James Gordon ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 24/Dec/09 AltLd
Dan_S 20/Dec/09 2nd O/S
Dunx 17/Dec/09 2nd
with Mark Walker
Alco-nomic ?/Dec/09 AltLd

tough top corner

with Geoff, Andy Wardle
gregor 29/Nov/09 -
andymoin 28/Nov/09 AltLd O/S

pitch 1 and pitch 3 were awesome and contrasting. The traverse was exciting and intimidating but I found the steep corners after to be the crux.

with adw07
Hidden 28/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
WilliamBurnside 08/Mar/09 AltLd

Wild day, so a good choice in the circumstances.

with John Workman
sgl 07/Mar/09 AltLd
with Stretch
MonkeyDawson 14/Feb/09 2nd
with Jonnie 3430 and Duanne White
jonnie3430 14/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Duanne and Graham
Hidden 21/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
BallsOfSteel ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with plummet
s kennedy 06/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
with tris fox
Smelly Fox 06/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
mikecopp 23/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Steve Addy
Hidden 08/Jan/08 AltLd
wheelsucker 08/Jan/08 AltLd
Alco-nomic ??/2008 AltLd
Jamie B 12/Nov/07 Lead
with Lorenzo Antelove
HIGHTOWER 15/Mar/07 2nd
with Clive
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 18/Feb/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Dec/05 AltLd
akhughes ?/Dec/05 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 28/Dec/04 AltLd
with Paul Tucker
Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Andy Munro
ArnaudG ??/2001 -
DaveHK 12/Nov/00 Lead
with Iain Sharpe
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
nickdonohue 05/Mar/96 AltLd
with Caley Latham
Hidden 02/Feb/95 Lead dnf
Yourlead 19/Jan/95 2nd

Wild blizzards and deep dodgy snow - Rapped Aladins.

with Graham Penny
tompercy ?/Dec/94 -
with Joel Telling
frost ?/Dec/94 AltLd
with J Turner
pingora 06/Dec/92 Lead O/S
with Cooper
Steve Crowe 10/Feb/90 AltLd O/S
Bruce Kerr 09/Dec/89 Lead
with Perric Crellin
Hidden 22/Feb/88 2nd
Hidden ?/Feb/87 -
Hidden ?/Nov/84 Lead
Bob 29/Dec/82 AltLd O/S

Led the pitch with the step out left.

with D. Geere
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High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Votes cast 55
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set