UKC

SMC Description
110m. A fine climb taking the central of the three main corners. It is graded for powder but it can ice and be a little easier. Start down and left from the narrowing at the foot of Patey's Route.
1) 25m. Gain the lower and left of two ramp-lines. Follow it over a bulge and continue left.
2) 25m. Follow two corners which curve up leftwards to the foot of the main corner.
3) 40m. Climb the cornet to its top.
4) 20m. Finish easily. © SMC

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter.


ClimberDateStyle
metrorat 17/Feb AltLd O/S

Climbed in two pitches, I ran 1 & 2 together and Euan did the massive corner. Great climbing even under the tough snow conditions. Plenty powder, plenty scraping about.

with Euan Maharg
Charlie Zephyr Booth 11/Feb AltLd
with tim millen
tjmillen 11/Feb AltLd
with Charlie
Hidden 22/Jan AltLd O/S
cacheson 21/Jan AltLd

Led 1 and 2. Second pitch is nice (and probably the "climbing" crux), but a bit short. None of us enjoyed thrutching our way up pitch 3. Probably worth a star for the second pitch.

with Craig Holden, Jake
Roberttaylor 07/Jan Lead O/S

Hard, sustained. Closer to VI 7 under powder. Got the start a bit wrong and belayed just up and right from the crack and roof, ended up dropping sideways (hooking a stuck cam) to get back into route. Neve on ledges would make this so much easier.

Oliver Smaje 07/Jan 2nd dog

A few hooks on gear to get back on route and race the fading light.

with Rob Taylor
Al_Mac 01/Jan 2nd
SeánM 12/Dec/17 AltLd
liamo333 12/Dec/17 AltLd
with SeánM
Hidden 06/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 28/Feb/17 AltLd
with Richard Kendrick
Richard Kendrick 28/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
with Dave Thexton
JackM92 27/Feb/17 AltLd dnf

Desperate for V, fell off p2 and wrecked my shoulder. Would be fine with some neve but horrible under loose powder.

LucaC 27/Feb/17 AltLd G/U

Lead crux p2, and p3. A beautiful day, but terrible loose snow. Took a fall at the top of p3 when cruddy snow ice ripped through. Felt desperate for the grade in today's conditions.

Chrismith 27/Feb/17 AltLd dog

Powder and cruddy ice fest. First pitch was buried with hardly any gear - think I placed about 4 bits. Fell of seconding the crux (twice!) when an axe ripped in the steep snowy mess. Felt desperate and neve or decent ice would have helped considerably...

with Jack, LucaC
olekemi 14/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

A good day out in some nice, absorbing corners there. Continued up and over to Pygmy Ridge.

with Jeremy M
harry_lewis 11/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

pretty hard

MSchobitz 11/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Led P1&3. Wanted to do Magic Crack, but decided to leave it for another day after the first few meters of it were very iced up. Thought we'd just nip up the rest of this instead. Thought wrong - hard battle on P3. Lots of useless powder, poor hooks and negligible feet. Chimney techniques in an open-book corner? Oh yes. Pretty much only stayed on due to friction of my Gore-Tex. Felt more like VI 7? Definitely harder than Fallout Corner or the few other VIs I've done. Solid effort by Harry on the equally hard P2!

Kirill 05/Mar/16 AltLd

In good nick but quite hard. Definitely felt like tech 7 on the P2. A little spindrifty in the main corner of the P3. Very good route. Graham was kind enough to let me lead all the technical pitches.

with GrahamD
John sealey 28/Feb/16 Lead
malx 20/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Really good. Great gear and hooks/torques but not much for your feet at some points

Hidden 13/Feb/16 AltLd
Marek Raganowicz 27/Jan/16 Lead
with Magda
mountain musher ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 -
Webster 13/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

lead first and last pitch, seconded crux pitch and crack of magic crack in the middle. the crux pitch felt more like VI, maybe some neve would help...

eaf4 28/Nov/15 AltLd
with AmyG
AmyG 28/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
with eaf4
Hidden 22/Nov/15 AltLd
SWalls 22/Nov/15 AltLd
with James Wheater, Stevos
Hidden 29/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Malcolm Bass ??/2015 -
Nick Wallis ??/2015 -
with Neil McNab
alasdair19 ??/2015 -

with Stuart lade a long battle

alasdair19 ??/2015 -
plain kitten ??/2015 -
mattnuttall 29/Dec/14 2nd O/S

Hard. And quite a lot of it felt hard too.

with Andy Wilson
Andrew Wilson 29/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Matt Nuttall
Misha 25/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
freudy_love 13/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
with Dunc
Brian Pollock 13/Dec/14 Lead O/S

First pitch of Doctor Janis (then sort of lost the line). Finished up the 2nd and last pitch of the Genie.

with Joe
Pina 13/Dec/14 2nd O/S
KKilroy 28/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with McCune
annep 27/Feb/14 2nd
Hidden 26/Feb/14 2nd O/S
Alpenglow 16/Feb/14 2nd

Started up Doctor Janis and finished up The Genie, climbed the main corner at about V 5 due to the bomber névé. Protection was virtually non-existent.

with Eugene, V11
V11 16/Feb/14 -
phil64 21/Jan/14 Lead rpt

lots of snow ice more like V,4

GaryK 16/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

An enjoyable route, which we climbed after failing on White Magic. Probably easy in the grade in today's conditions.

with Roger Webb
sann1458 11/Jan/14 AltLd

Lots of hard neve - more like V 6 in these conditions. Fantastic fun!

with DrGeoff
amy 04/Jan/14 2nd
Alexclimbs 02/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Some icing. Lots if digging for pro, pitch 2 & 3 excellent.

Hidden ?/Jan/14 -
GordonAinslie ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Andy Moles 22/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with ferdia
ferdia 22/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Obviously didn't lead the hard bits...

Hidden 01/Feb/13 AltLd
robertmichaellovell 01/Feb/13 AltLd

the other pitches this time

with Fiona
peter.herd 27/Jan/13 AltLd

Lead corner on p2 - positive thoughout but slabs verglassed. Cruxes were hard enough on second.. Wild day!

with John M
tim newton 17/Jan/13 AltLd dog

fell off the bulge on pitch 1, hard move, at least tech 6...or maybe we were on the wrong bulge. Lead pitch 2 which I thought was the crux in current condition (hard V,7). Pitch 3 was good, felt about V,6. Glad to do pitches 2 and 3 clean.

James Smith 17/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

edvin led 1st, tim 2nd, me 3rd. first pitch wasnt great i thought but other two were great. really tenuous for feet on 2nd pitch and then 3rd was sustained but with mostly bomber hooks.

with tim, edvin
sheffieldchris ??/2013 -
Andrew Wilson 05/Dec/12 AltLd dnf
Petarghh 28/Nov/12 AltLd dnf

Almost to the top of the route when my crampon twisted off in the corner crack and forced a retreat a few meters from the end of the difficulties ! All three pitches gave some awesome climbing even if a little buried by powder.

Harry Holmes 28/Nov/12 AltLd dnf
with Pete Hill
Kayan 26/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Great climb, awesome hooking and torquing. Good conditions with bomber gear.

with Joe fraser
Hidden ?/Jan/12 AltLd dog
a_hein 04/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
robertmichaellovell 04/Dec/11 AltLd

couple of goes to negotiate the crux

with a_hein
erinbastian 02/May/11 AltLd
Hidden 15/Feb/11 2nd
Hidden 11/Feb/11 AltLd
Hidden 11/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
geoff.comley 22/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Lead second corner pitch. 1st pitch really safe exciting climbing. 2nd pitch amazing. Stonking route!!

Hidden ??/2011 -
mulletcocktail2000 27/Dec/10 AltLd dnf

disappointed.

with drew
Hidden 27/Dec/10 AltLd dnf
geoff b 14/Feb/10 Lead O/S

More sustained than it looked from the base. P1 was well protected & technical with thin moves. P2 up the corner/groove was more sustained & brutal but not as technically hard.

with Dr. Nick
michael83 24/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

led 1st and 3rd pitches. Corner on the 3rd pitch was sustained and hard to protect.

with Mark
Hidden 24/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 20/Dec/09 AltLd
mynyddresident 18/Dec/09 AltLd

Great climbing.

with barni
barni 18/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
with Nic cot
Dunx 17/Dec/09 2nd
with Mark Walker
Hidden 31/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
ShaneHoubart ?/Feb/09 2nd

Brilliant route - well reccommended!!! When we did it there was not much ice or snow but it was still brilliant!!!

with Ale
gaz.marshall 17/Jan/09 AltLd
with Kiwi Steve
steev 12/Dec/08 AltLd
with sgl
sgl 12/Dec/08 Lead
with stevious
Hidden 23/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
Alasdair Fulton 06/Jan/08 AltLd

Tricky! Smearing on granite slabs in crampons is new to me!

andyinglis 06/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
akhughes ?/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Mark Stevenson 03/Jan/03 Lead dnf
with Will Woodhead
frost ?/Jan/03 AltLd
with N Griffiths
NeilGriffiths 03/Feb/02 AltLd
with frost
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?/Feb/02 Lead
alkira 01/Jan/02 -
with harvey mullen, ROBIN CLOTHIER
Dave Kerr 27/Jan/01 AltLd
with Steve Wells, Iain Sharpe
Hidden ??/2000 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 2nd
James Gordon ??/1999 -
Marti999 27/Dec/97 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Dec/97 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Nov/96 2nd O/S
Andy Clark 10/Nov/96 Lead
with Burnsie
Billg ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Paul Tucker
TheAndyBarker ?/Jan/91 Lead
Hidden 12/Feb/88 AltLd
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Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 41
High 8
Mid 8
Low 8
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set