UKC

2628m. Superb scenery. Approach via a path from the Alpspitzbahn-Ostfelderkopf cable car, and choose whether to go up the first rocky tower; which is a bit green on its arete and throughout but pleasant enough - however, requires abseils to get down to a col continuing up the main wall and ridge, or whetehr to bypass the first tower on its left side by following the path a little longer to instead start climbing next to the Klettersteig/Via Ferrata. The latter option is the more enjoyable one. Climb a series of gullies and broken rock chimneys up to the col, next to the klettersteig.

From the col (regardless of which direction you arrived from), head up the main North-East face wall by climbing series of gullies, faces, corner systems and also the ridge itself at some sections; always in vicinity of the klettersteig, mostly to the left of it, but some times on its right. The klettersteig provides direction and an escape route, if necessary.

Enjoyable climbing throughout, but abundant loose rock; remember the people on the klettersteig or below the face (a traverse klettersteig runs across it at low level), who may be upset by you dislodging rock from above. The top ridge has sections of IV, but are avoidable, especially via the klettersteig. Steepness varies between sections and your exact route, but ranges 40-50 degrees (or more if you so choose).

Descent via one of several paths that all require some downclimbing/downscrambling or use of the klettersteig; Ostgrat Normal Route being the easient.

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