Rockfax Description
75m. A good climb up the prominent corner immediately above the start of Fiacaill Couloir. It sometimes ices up enough to be easier but less well protected. Climb Fiacaill Couloir for a pitch to below the corner. Either climb directly into the corner (good build-up or good torquing technique required), or continue up the gully (as for Rampant) to use the big ledges going right. Climb the main corner in one long pitch; protection is strenuous to place at the start and the climbing is sustained throughout. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
24/11/2013: CAUTION: there is a large loose block the size of a small microwave about 2m below the top out on the right wall. It's in a recess of the right wall so be very careful not to hook it. It's an obvious foot placement when moving up so don't stand on it either! it's very wobbly!

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs.

Hidden 05/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
carr0t 11/Feb/17 -

Conditions a bit powdery, but the route is excellent. What a sustained pitch!

Tobes 11/Feb/17 AltLd
Hidden 10/Feb/17 AltLd dnf
Hidden 10/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Feb/17 AltLd
Luke Jones 19/Nov/16 2nd

Partially frozen turf low down, OK higher up. Not a lot of ice. Hard!

with Neil Redgrave
rob16 18/Feb/16 2nd
with Matt Brook
malx 28/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
mountain musher ??/2016 -
Teappleby 12/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Great route, led pitch 2 which as pretty straight forward apart from a 4-5 meter vertical wall just after the belay which needed some pretty nice laybacking with torques and then some slopey ledge flopping! Ended belated were I could get a good peg, which left Micki with a monster 40-45m pitch, all of which mainly 6 with the odd bit of 5. Lovely climbing, though alot easier later in the season I assume with some neve. So much harder than savage slit in today's conditions (like at least a whole grade!)

MSchobitz 12/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Led the easy P1 and an extended 40m P3, after Tom belayed about 10m below the hanging corner belay. Took 2.5hrs on the last pitch, sorry Tom!, and ran out of quickdraws. Felt pretty hard (definitely not the same grade as Savage Slit or Deep Throat) and a bit of neve in the back corner would've made things much easier! Good route to get to grips with torquing! Solid lead by Tom as well on the belly-flop start to P2!

geoff b 17/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

A brilliant route. Sustained but well protected climbing with many (6?!) in situ pieces of gear. P1 isn't easy but it is a good warm up for the main event. We'd bailed off the belay the previous day amidst spindrift hell & gale force winds. Nice to get back & climb it.

with Dr. Nick
kegless 12/Feb/15 2nd
with John McCuan
Colin Dyer 03/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

With Dave Kerr. Great route but strenuous.

benclimbing 02/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Great early season conditions. Some sketchy moments so possibly at the upper end of the V,6 grade

DAL 02/Jan/15 2nd
plain kitten ??/2015 -
tim20 ??/2015 -
Hidden 22/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
dan-8990 18/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
with JC
The Grist 02/Mar/14 Lead O/S

It felt about grade 5 today. Probably easy 5. Felt steady but run out. Definitely in easy condition and not a mixed route today. But still very enjoyable.

with Tom Doldon
Ewan Russell 25/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Thought it was V 5 today. I assume the normal crux was banked out. Ice running the length of the pitch. Took stubbys. Odd bit of rock gear where it mattered. Felt bold overall.

with gwen
wi11 24/Feb/14 2nd β

Abbed in for last pitch. Massively banked out not like last time I was on it, Grade III at the minute? Easier than the Seam on the same day. Not much gear to be had but v easy to climb

with Dave R, Mark C
benkelsey 07/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Lead Middle Pitch. massively banked out involving a lot of digging for gear -> fair runouts. top of the pitch was steep perfect neve for 7m to the belay, ace! Good lead from Jonny with a lot of powder and a massive cornice. topped out about 7pm only for Paul to twist his ankle on the walk out meaning back to the car by 11 and the end of his trip :/ so much for a rest day!

JRae 07/Feb/14 AltLd

Pretty knackering condition, loads of just off vertical unconsolidated snow at the top.

pmurdy 07/Feb/14 2nd
with Ben K, Jonny Reay
Dave Almond 28/Jan/14 2nd

BMC International Meet

with Michal Sabovcik
tjmillen 25/Jan/14 AltLd
with Jeff
Hidden 04/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
frost ?/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
alasdair19 ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 26/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
Timothy Miller 21/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
with Scott G
Hidden 21/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
wi11 17/Dec/13 AltLd dnf

Ran out of quickdraws

with Brian
Hidden 24/Nov/13 AltLd rpt
michael83 24/Nov/13 AltLd RP

came off the crux unexpectedly and landed back at the belay due to poor feet/hook choice. Lead the full pitch clean after (yoyo'd i think the term is). long and strenuous!

Hidden 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
D.Russell 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with Steve, Adam
Andy Moles 26/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Clare
andyinglis 01/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams 01/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
wheelsucker ??/2013 -
Hidden 29/Dec/12 2nd
Tom Livingstone 01/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Led main pitch

geoff.comley 12/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Absolutely loved this route, first wall is cool. First corner up to the belay was solid, thin for feet and only a couple of helpful hooks. Cracks full of ice so a bit of hunting for the gear. Nearly off at the overhang due to an axe ripping but saved it...... just :) Ace (hard v 6 when rimed up)

Hidden 06/Feb/11 AltLd
simondunf 06/Feb/11 Lead O/S

v iced, couldn't get any pro for corner

with caspar
Hidden 30/Jan/11 2nd
andybuckley 30/Jan/11 AltLd

Avoided the direct start via easy ledges to the left. Belay pretty tenuous below the main corner on one nut. Pretty iced up -- couldn't use the crack for either torquing or placements, hence some tenuous skating up hoar frost on the walls. Steve led it... way too hard for me: it felt sketchy and hard even on second!

with Steve Fortune
inuklm 08/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
jonnybull ?/Jan/11 AltLd dog

Epic, epic lead up the main corner. I was completely drained afterwards. There was so much hoar frost that no rock was visible. I spent most of the 3 hours(!) cleaning the rock looking for protection. At least in this condition there were secure(ish) crampon placements. Took a small fall about halfway. Massive thanks to Kunal for his patience!

with Kunal
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
KeithW 22/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1. Lots of snow, little ice as yet.

with Nathan White, Kev
wence 21/Nov/10 2nd dnf
with Rob
robertmichaellovell 21/Nov/10 AltLd dnf

spat off and psyched out with a bruised ass, going was good until that point though

with Lawrence
Ian Jones 16/Nov/10 2nd O/S

As the guidebook says, the turf is disappearing and it is getting harder. No ice around so definitely hard V1, maybe technically VII. A grade and a half harder than Savage Slit. Hard and very sustained with some great runners. A great lead by Dan.

Hidden 16/Nov/10 Lead
MonkeyDawson 21/Mar/10 Lead

Amazing route. Not the best quality ice on the face but crack was filled nicely.

with Bob Foster
Hidden 21/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
centurion05 ??/2010 Lead O/S

I thought it was pretty desperate, not a lot of ice, protection wasn't great. Very committing and scary.

with Dan Carroll, Stu Harth
MouseHunter ??/2010 -
Lone Rider ??/2010 AltLd

Fell of crux and spiked James in the thigh. Got back on and cruised it.

Greg Boswell 14/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
with Euan Whittaker, James Dunn
HIGHTOWER 07/Mar/09 2nd
with Ben Thynne, Tim
Hidden 20/Feb/09 2nd
Ed Booth 20/Feb/09 Lead
windy100 ??/2009 -
timmy-ts ??/2009 Lead

Ben, sorry mate, you got a little chilly.

with Ben T
markjarvie ??/2009 -
with C-Man
hwackerhage 30/Nov/08 -
with Brian
Hidden 15/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Smelly Fox 15/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
s kennedy 15/Mar/08 2nd
with tris fox, mark mosgrove
Chad123 09/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

It's tough for V,6 but it ain't VI! Fun corner route with some quite tricky moves to keep you entertained...

with Sam
sgl 09/Mar/08 AltLd
with chad
Hidden 19/Dec/06 AltLd dnf
Spade 17/Dec/06 AltLd

Very good

with Dave Wragg
dangates ?/Dec/04 AltLd
with Alistair Buchanan
nickdonohue ?/Mar/02 Lead

Relatively easy when I did it with a sliver of just consolidated enough snow-ice in the corner

with Mark McCarthy
Hidden ?/Feb/01 AltLd
Paul Figg 14/Jan/01 -
with Rachel Antill
brockers ?/Feb/00 2nd
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
pingora 14/Nov/93 AltLd rpt
with Chris M, Blaggers
pingora 08/Mar/93 AltLd O/S
with Shaun R
Hidden 22/Feb/88 Lead
Hidden 15/Feb/88 Lead
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
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High VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
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High 7
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High 6
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High 5
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Low 5
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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