24/11/2013: CAUTION: there is a large loose block the size of a small microwave about 2m below the top out on the right wall. It's in a recess of the right wall so be very careful not to hook it. It's an obvious foot placement when moving up so don't stand on it either! it's very wobbly!

Ticklists

Cairngorm Winter Climbs, Winter 2018/19

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 20 Dec, 2018 -
Stuart the postie 25 Nov, 2018 AltLd Not in optimum conditions.
with Euan Fowler
Not in optimum conditions.
with Euan Fowler
eaf4 25 Nov, 2018 AltLd
CMoore 24 Nov, 2018 AltLd
with Ed Newcombe
with Ed Newcombe
Jamie Skelton 29 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Jack Morris
with Jack Morris
clanger ??, 2018 -
Hidden 5 Mar, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 5 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S
carr0t 11 Feb, 2017 - Conditions a bit powdery, but the route is excellent. What a sustained pitch!
Conditions a bit powdery, but the route is excellent. What a sustained pitch!
Tobes 11 Feb, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 10 Feb, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 10 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Feb, 2017 AltLd
Luke Jones 19 Nov, 2016 2nd Partially frozen turf low down, OK higher up. Not a lot of ice. Hard!
with Neil Redgrave
Partially frozen turf low down, OK higher up. Not a lot of ice. Hard!
with Neil Redgrave
rob16 18 Feb, 2016 2nd
with Matt Brook
with Matt Brook
malx 28 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S
mountain musher ??, 2016 -
Teappleby 12 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S Great route, led pitch 2 which as pretty straight forward apart from a 4-5 meter vertical wall just after the belay which needed some pretty nice laybacking with torques and then some slopey ledge flopping! Ended belated were I could get a good peg, which left Micki with a monster 40-45m pitch, all of which mainly 6 with the odd bit of 5. Lovely climbing, though alot easier later in the season I assume with some neve. So much harder than savage slit in today's conditions (like at least a whole grade!)
Great route, led pitch 2 which as pretty straight forward apart from a 4-5 meter vertical wall just after the belay which needed some pretty nice laybacking with torques and then some slopey ledge flopping! Ended belated were I could get a good peg, which left Micki with a monster 40-45m pitch, all of which mainly 6 with the odd bit of 5. Lovely climbing, though alot easier later in the season I assume with some neve. So much harder than savage slit in today's conditions (like at least a whole grade!)
MSchobitz 12 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S Led the easy P1 and an extended 40m P3, after Tom belayed about 10m below the hanging corner belay. Took 2.5hrs on the last pitch, sorry Tom!, and ran out of quickdraws. Felt pretty hard (definitely not the same grade as Savage Slit or Deep Throat) and a bit of neve in the back corner would've made things much easier! Good route to get to grips with torquing! Solid lead by Tom as well on the belly-flop start to P2!
Led the easy P1 and an extended 40m P3, after Tom belayed about 10m below the hanging corner belay. Took 2.5hrs on the last pitch, sorry Tom!, and ran out of quickdraws. Felt pretty hard (definitely not the same grade as Savage Slit or Deep Throat) and a bit of neve in the back corner would've made things much easier! Good route to get to grips with torquing! Solid lead by Tom as well on the belly-flop start to P2!
geoff b 17 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S A brilliant route. Sustained but well protected climbing with many (6?!) in situ pieces of gear. P1 isn't easy but it is a good warm up for the main event. We'd bailed off the belay the previous day amidst spindrift hell & gale force winds. Nice to get back & climb it.
with Dr. Nick
A brilliant route. Sustained but well protected climbing with many (6?!) in situ pieces of gear. P1 isn't easy but it is a good warm up for the main event. We'd bailed off the belay the previous day amidst spindrift hell & gale force winds. Nice to get back & climb it.
with Dr. Nick
kegless 12 Feb, 2015 2nd
with John McCuan
with John McCuan
Colin Dyer 3 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S With Dave Kerr. Great route but strenuous.
with DaveHK
With Dave Kerr. Great route but strenuous.
with DaveHK
DaveHK 3 Jan, 2015 AltLd
benclimbing 2 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S Great early season conditions. Some sketchy moments so possibly at the upper end of the V,6 grade
Great early season conditions. Some sketchy moments so possibly at the upper end of the V,6 grade
Hidden 2 Jan, 2015 2nd
plain kitten ??, 2015 -
tim20 ??, 2015 -
Hidden 22 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
dan-8990 18 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
with JC
with JC
The Grist 2 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S It felt about grade 5 today. Probably easy 5. Felt steady but run out. Definitely in easy condition and not a mixed route today. But still very enjoyable.
It felt about grade 5 today. Probably easy 5. Felt steady but run out. Definitely in easy condition and not a mixed route today. But still very enjoyable.
Ewan Russell 25 Feb, 2014 Lead O/S Thought it was V 5 today. I assume the normal crux was banked out. Ice running the length of the pitch. Took stubbys. Odd bit of rock gear where it mattered. Felt bold overall.
with gwen
Thought it was V 5 today. I assume the normal crux was banked out. Ice running the length of the pitch. Took stubbys. Odd bit of rock gear where it mattered. Felt bold overall.
with gwen
wi11 24 Feb, 2014 2nd β Abbed in for last pitch. Massively banked out not like last time I was on it, Grade III at the minute? Easier than the Seam on the same day. Not much gear to be had but v easy to climb
with Dave R, Mark C
Abbed in for last pitch. Massively banked out not like last time I was on it, Grade III at the minute? Easier than the Seam on the same day. Not much gear to be had but v easy to climb
with Dave R, Mark C
benkelsey 7 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead Middle Pitch. massively banked out involving a lot of digging for gear -> fair runouts. top of the pitch was steep perfect neve for 7m to the belay, ace! Good lead from Jonny with a lot of powder and a massive cornice. topped out about 7pm only for Paul to twist his ankle on the walk out meaning back to the car by 11 and the end of his trip :/ so much for a rest day!
with pmurdy, JRae
Lead Middle Pitch. massively banked out involving a lot of digging for gear -> fair runouts. top of the pitch was steep perfect neve for 7m to the belay, ace! Good lead from Jonny with a lot of powder and a massive cornice. topped out about 7pm only for Paul to twist his ankle on the walk out meaning back to the car by 11 and the end of his trip :/ so much for a rest day!
with pmurdy, JRae
JRae 7 Feb, 2014 AltLd Pretty knackering condition, loads of just off vertical unconsolidated snow at the top.
Pretty knackering condition, loads of just off vertical unconsolidated snow at the top.
pmurdy 7 Feb, 2014 2nd
with Ben K, Jonny Reay
with Ben K, Jonny Reay
Dave Almond 28 Jan, 2014 2nd BMC International Meet
with Michal Sabovcik
BMC International Meet
with Michal Sabovcik
tjmillen 25 Jan, 2014 AltLd
with Jeff
with Jeff
Hidden 4 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S
frost ?Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S
alasdair19 ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden 26 Dec, 2013 AltLd O/S
mim tiller 21 Dec, 2013 AltLd O/S
with ScottyG
with ScottyG
Hidden 21 Dec, 2013 AltLd O/S
wi11 17 Dec, 2013 AltLd dnf Ran out of quickdraws
Ran out of quickdraws
Hidden 24 Nov, 2013 AltLd rpt
michael83 24 Nov, 2013 AltLd RP came off the crux unexpectedly and landed back at the belay due to poor feet/hook choice. Lead the full pitch clean after (yoyo'd i think the term is). long and strenuous!
with Mark020
came off the crux unexpectedly and landed back at the belay due to poor feet/hook choice. Lead the full pitch clean after (yoyo'd i think the term is). long and strenuous!
with Mark020
Hidden 10 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S
D.Russell 10 Nov, 2013 2nd O/S
with Steve, Adam Russell
with Steve, Adam Russell
Andy Moles 26 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S
with Clare
with Clare
andyinglis 1 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams 1 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S
wheelsucker ??, 2013 -
Hidden 29 Dec, 2012 2nd
Tom Livingstone 1 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S Led main pitch
Led main pitch
geoff.comley 12 Dec, 2011 Lead O/S Absolutely loved this route, first wall is cool. First corner up to the belay was solid, thin for feet and only a couple of helpful hooks. Cracks full of ice so a bit of hunting for the gear. Nearly off at the overhang due to an axe ripping but saved it...... just :) Ace (hard v 6 when rimed up)
Absolutely loved this route, first wall is cool. First corner up to the belay was solid, thin for feet and only a couple of helpful hooks. Cracks full of ice so a bit of hunting for the gear. Nearly off at the overhang due to an axe ripping but saved it...... just :) Ace (hard v 6 when rimed up)
Hidden 6 Feb, 2011 AltLd
simondunf 6 Feb, 2011 Lead O/S v iced, couldn't get any pro for corner
with caspar
v iced, couldn't get any pro for corner
with caspar
Hidden 30 Jan, 2011 2nd
andybuckley 30 Jan, 2011 AltLd Avoided the direct start via easy ledges to the left. Belay pretty tenuous below the main corner on one nut. Pretty iced up -- couldn't use the crack for either torquing or placements, hence some tenuous skating up hoar frost on the walls. Steve led it... way too hard for me: it felt sketchy and hard even on second!
with Steve Fortune
Avoided the direct start via easy ledges to the left. Belay pretty tenuous below the main corner on one nut. Pretty iced up -- couldn't use the crack for either torquing or placements, hence some tenuous skating up hoar frost on the walls. Steve led it... way too hard for me: it felt sketchy and hard even on second!
with Steve Fortune
inuklm 8 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
jonnybull ?Jan, 2011 AltLd dog Epic, epic lead up the main corner. I was completely drained afterwards. There was so much hoar frost that no rock was visible. I spent most of the 3 hours(!) cleaning the rock looking for protection. At least in this condition there were secure(ish) crampon placements. Took a small fall about halfway. Massive thanks to Kunal for his patience!
with inuklm
Epic, epic lead up the main corner. I was completely drained afterwards. There was so much hoar frost that no rock was visible. I spent most of the 3 hours(!) cleaning the rock looking for protection. At least in this condition there were secure(ish) crampon placements. Took a small fall about halfway. Massive thanks to Kunal for his patience!
with inuklm
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
KeithW 22 Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1. Lots of snow, little ice as yet.
with Nathan White, Kev
Led pitch 1. Lots of snow, little ice as yet.
with Nathan White, Kev
wence 21 Nov, 2010 2nd dnf
robertmichaellovell 21 Nov, 2010 AltLd dnf spat off and psyched out with a bruised ass, going was good until that point though
with Lawrence
spat off and psyched out with a bruised ass, going was good until that point though
with Lawrence
Ian Jones 16 Nov, 2010 2nd O/S As the guidebook says, the turf is disappearing and it is getting harder. No ice around so definitely hard V1, maybe technically VII. A grade and a half harder than Savage Slit. Hard and very sustained with some great runners. A great lead by Dan.
As the guidebook says, the turf is disappearing and it is getting harder. No ice around so definitely hard V1, maybe technically VII. A grade and a half harder than Savage Slit. Hard and very sustained with some great runners. A great lead by Dan.
Hidden 16 Nov, 2010 Lead
MonkeyDawson 21 Mar, 2010 Lead Amazing route. Not the best quality ice on the face but crack was filled nicely.
with Bob Foster
Amazing route. Not the best quality ice on the face but crack was filled nicely.
with Bob Foster
Hidden 21 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
centurion05 ??, 2010 Lead O/S I thought it was pretty desperate, not a lot of ice, protection wasn't great. Very committing and scary.
with Dan Carroll, Stu Harth
I thought it was pretty desperate, not a lot of ice, protection wasn't great. Very committing and scary.
with Dan Carroll, Stu Harth
MouseHunter ??, 2010 -
Lone Rider ??, 2010 AltLd Fell of crux and spiked James in the thigh. Got back on and cruised it.
Fell of crux and spiked James in the thigh. Got back on and cruised it.
Greg Boswell 14 Dec, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Euan Whittaker, James Dunn
with Euan Whittaker, James Dunn
HIGHTOWER 7 Mar, 2009 2nd
with Ben Thynne, timmy-ts
with Ben Thynne, timmy-ts
Hidden 20 Feb, 2009 2nd
Ed Booth 20 Feb, 2009 Lead
windy100 ??, 2009 -
timmy-ts ??, 2009 Lead Ben, sorry mate, you got a little chilly.
with Ben T
Ben, sorry mate, you got a little chilly.
with Ben T
MarkGrant ??, 2009 -
with C-Man
with C-Man
hwackerhage 30 Nov, 2008 -
with Brian
with Brian
Hidden 15 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S
Smelly Fox 15 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S
s kennedy 15 Mar, 2008 2nd
with tris fox, mark mosgrove
with tris fox, mark mosgrove
Chad123 9 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S It's tough for V,6 but it ain't VI! Fun corner route with some quite tricky moves to keep you entertained...
with sgl
It's tough for V,6 but it ain't VI! Fun corner route with some quite tricky moves to keep you entertained...
with sgl
sgl 9 Mar, 2008 AltLd
with chad
with chad
Mihkel 19 Dec, 2006 AltLd dnf I led first 2 pitches, as Alex was keen to lead the main corner pitch, despite lean conditions. Al fell and took a whipper onto (fortunately) a snowy shelf below the corner. Backed off. Graded V 6 at time.
with Alex Pickard
I led first 2 pitches, as Alex was keen to lead the main corner pitch, despite lean conditions. Al fell and took a whipper onto (fortunately) a snowy shelf below the corner. Backed off. Graded V 6 at time.
with Alex Pickard
Spade 17 Dec, 2006 AltLd Very good
with Dave Wragg
Very good
with Dave Wragg
dangates ?Dec, 2004 AltLd
with Alistair Buchanan
with Alistair Buchanan
nickdonohue ?Mar, 2002 Lead Relatively easy when I did it with a sliver of just consolidated enough snow-ice in the corner
with Mark McCarthy
Relatively easy when I did it with a sliver of just consolidated enough snow-ice in the corner
with Mark McCarthy
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Feb, 2001 AltLd international meet (foot and mouth year)
international meet (foot and mouth year)
Paul Figg 14 Jan, 2001 -
with Rachel Antill
with Rachel Antill
brockers ?Feb, 2000 2nd
graeme gatherer ??, 2000 -
James Gordon ??, 1999 -
pingora 14 Nov, 1993 AltLd rpt
with Chris M, Blaggers
with Chris M, Blaggers
pingora 8 Mar, 1993 AltLd O/S
with Shaun R
with Shaun R
Hidden 22 Feb, 1988 Lead
Hidden 15 Feb, 1988 Lead
Hidden ??, 1988 AltLd
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Voting
High VII
Mid VII
Low VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 29
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set