800m, 5 pitches.
Approach: From the main glacier walk east up a spur glacier under the North flank of Pony. If at this point you can’t see Rock Horse, you’ve either forgot your contact lenses or the weather requires you to go back to bed. 1hr10m.
Route: Ascend the lower flanks below the bergschrund at 4600m and climb the lower snowfield (55 - 65º, II) directly below the summit to large horizontal rocks at 4900m. (From here a number of options present themselves. On the first ascent, a large left to right couloir of ice was chosen) From the rock, climb gradually steepening couloir of ice for 80m (IV) to a steepening at an ice fall. Turn this on the right over a snow crest and continue diagonally rightwards, following up underneath a band of rock (IV). From here one pitch of Scottish III straight up leads to mixed ground. Climb this on its left hand flank, adjacent to a buttress, taking care with poor ice and rock (IV/V, conditions dependent). At the top of this a short 10m pitch leads to the cornice, which is easiest to bellyflop over at a point about 10m further right. 100m from this point to the summit along the West ridge. 6h15m.
Descent: Decamp via West ridge/Southwest flank (max 50º) to glacier between Pony and Raven Peak (moderately crevassed). From here descend to main glacier. 1h30m from summit to base camp at 4200m.
Route: Ascend the lower flanks below the bergschrund at 4600m and climb the lower snowfield (55 - 65º, II) directly below the summit to large horizontal rocks at 4900m. (From here a number of options present themselves. On the first ascent, a large left to right couloir of ice was chosen) From the rock, climb gradually steepening couloir of ice for 80m (IV) to a steepening at an ice fall. Turn this on the right over a snow crest and continue diagonally rightwards, following up underneath a band of rock (IV). From here one pitch of Scottish III straight up leads to mixed ground. Climb this on its left hand flank, adjacent to a buttress, taking care with poor ice and rock (IV/V, conditions dependent). At the top of this a short 10m pitch leads to the cornice, which is easiest to bellyflop over at a point about 10m further right. 100m from this point to the summit along the West ridge. 6h15m.
Descent: Decamp via West ridge/Southwest flank (max 50º) to glacier between Pony and Raven Peak (moderately crevassed). From here descend to main glacier. 1h30m from summit to base camp at 4200m.
Conor Gilmour and R?n?n Kernan 30/Aug/2012.
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Route of Interest
2012 Route
Grade: TD ***
(Dzhirnagaktu)