Rockfax Description
Early jugs lead to a tricky and sharp crux high in the sky. Tricky to on-site and entertaining climbing throughout. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Early jugs lead to a tricky and sharp crux high in the sky. Entertaining climbing.

FA. Claude & Yves Remy Mar/2004

pawelgregorczyk 17/Oct Lead RP
with kamil
Hidden 13/May Lead
Hidden 25/Apr 2nd
Hidden 25/Apr Lead RP
RFWilkie 23/Apr Lead RP
davidrblakeman 23/Apr TR β
Thinker01 23/Apr Lead RP

Missed a hold and made the crux significantly harder in the process! First red point attempt.

mike reed 09/Apr Lead rpt

Put the draws in for LeeAnn who wanted a 7a experience, and this is a pretty good one to choose.

polivmi1 ??/2017 -
Jonathan Emett 13/Nov/16 Lead
joshdownham23 17/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Leigh
artmal 16/Oct/16 Lead O/S
mikedevcole 23/May/16 Lead RP

1st RP. Fell going through the bulge on the onsight. Found the crux tricky to read but with a sequence fairly straight forward.

Stuart William 23/May/16 Lead dog

Two goes. Missed a hold on the crux and fell. Too long in the sun for another go. Blowing a hoolie too which added something

J1_TOV 23/May/16 Lead β

Saw Stu run up it but didn't use his awesome heel hooking method. Instead used a finger snapping undercling pocket. Terrible!

humptydumpty 18/May/16 Lead RP

New beta for the crux, and it's done!

humptydumpty 16/May/16 Lead dog

First go: head all over the place, very tense, tried to back off the crux and fell off instead. Second go: led nicely up to the crux, and peeled off. Straight back on below the crux, to finish.

humptydumpty 13/May/16 Lead dog

Felt harder today! First go footwork was all over the place, and fell at the crux. Second go was more tired but much smoother...and still fluffed the crux.

humptydumpty 11/May/16 Lead dog

Fell at the crux, then a couple more times. Then linked from before crux to chains.

humptydumpty 09/May/16 TR dog
dannyboy83 02/May/16 Lead O/S
with Lena
lena.drapella 02/May/16 Lead dog
Emilysaladfingers 22/Apr/16 2nd RP

lead it and got the moves sorted then felt too tired so stripped it on a top rope but got up clean! Next time......

Mat Welsh 20/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Tester day following four days with a virus, still feeling half bad - cracking route, good climbing all the way.

with Emily J
andybirtwistle ??/2016 -
mike reed 01/Dec/15 Lead rpt

Just very good.

Hidden 21/Nov/15 2nd dog
Hidden 09/Nov/15 Lead O/S
Annelies 24/Oct/15 Lead RP
buzby78 24/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Jess
mhairi thorburn 24/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Jess, buzz, croppers and jen
eel 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Jan
khawk 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with DT
datoon 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with K
Julie Carroll 10/Oct/15 Lead RP
with Peter Dickinson
jess ?/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with neill
Hidden 30/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/15 Lead dog
galerito 01/May/15 Lead RP

tricky sequence on not so good holds

JLS 22/Apr/15 Lead dog

All went a bit pear shape at the crux. A hard move to stick first time.

with Koon
Linc 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
DanielGyi 07/Apr/15 Lead
with Phil Skurok, Michael Robinson, Dom Pearce
M_Robinson 03/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Hard to onsight

LisaA 03/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Gert Lush

Tomar 02/Apr/15 Lead O/S


with paul jackson
LucasHarazin 19/Nov/14 Lead O/S
jakk 19/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Crazy wind! blowing the quickdraws sideways, great fun

Jon_Warner 22/May/14 Lead dog

Pretty dang hard!

with Tom Jordan
tom russell ?/May/14 Lead O/S
3 Names 29/Apr/14 Lead dog
quiffhanger 28/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/14 Lead RP
Giles Davis 25/Apr/14 Lead dog

One fall at crux again :-( It's looking like I'll have to come back again . . . . and I was hoping to go to Spain instead in the Autumn :-/

Giles Davis 24/Apr/14 Lead dog

Bah humbug. Fell at the crux move on my first attempt on lead. It looks like it's coming down to one move only, going for an upside-down pinch with my thumb.

Giles Davis 23/Apr/14 TR RP

Pleased with the effort I put in on this and felt I deserved to get it clean after trying so many crazy sequences at the hard and sharp crux. :D

Chriswallis2 22/Apr/14 Lead RP

2nd go.

with Pete
BicycleBradley 05/Apr/14 Lead RP

Initial lead with rest to work out crux, second attempt clean lead, first 7a

Adam Matthews 05/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Ri 05/Apr/14 Lead O/S
seanwalsh 05/Apr/14 Lead β
Hidden 27/Feb/14 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Feb/14 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Feb/14 Lead β
matiamallia 18/Jan/14 Lead
Giles Davis 01/Nov/13 Lead dog

Wow, great route. Unfortunately I only had one go at it but will be back in April 2014 to complete it (hopefully).

Hidden 25/Oct/13 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 25/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Wise, mark R, loundsy
mark20 25/Oct/13 Lead β
Phil PBC 28/Apr/13 Lead RP
with tym white
Mike_Hayes 13/Apr/13 Lead O/S
DeanT ??/2013 Lead O/S
Gus 28/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 28/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Clip gate 05/May/12 -

Classic pocket climbing in a magnificent position.

with Andy Clark
nicolat ?/May/12 Lead O/S
climbinmunkey 26/Apr/12 Lead dog

Had a battle! Humid day so the yellow section was greasy. Finally managed to slither through after several falls. Superb climb but needs good conditions.

with Helen
Naomi Kyan 12/Apr/12 Lead RP
with Seb
Hidden 10/Apr/12 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead dog
LC ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
skygodley 15/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with SarahM
Hidden 15/Nov/11 Lead O/S
JulesV ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Liam FLeming 10/Oct/11 -
Garrouli ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/11 Lead rpt
ThomasB ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Robbie_Phillips ?/Nov/10 -
Marti999 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden 11/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Milnes 10/Oct/10 Lead rpt
lanky_bastard 24/Sep/10 Lead dog

Too tired to get clean

Hidden 15/May/10 Lead RP
craig d ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
tuukka 30/Dec/09 Lead O/S
with Maija
Hidden 23/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 14/Oct/09 Lead RP
rubben ?/Oct/09 Lead RP

2nd go - just had to work out crux at top...great climb

with Marcus O'Leary
Greg Cunningham ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
nealh ?/Oct/09 Lead
with helen
Hidden 10/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
mux ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S

crux near the top

marky 17/Apr/09 Lead β

Repeat for warm up

with Sharon
jfreeman 07/Apr/09 Lead O/S
simonr 07/Apr/09 Lead β
Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
La Mont ??/2009 -
DannyK 23/Oct/08 Lead dog
with Katie
Richard Horn 09/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/08 Lead O/S
marky 13/May/08 Lead O/S
with Sharon
Hidden 08/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead O/S
keefe 23/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Tansy
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead dnf
ksjs 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S

ok but harder moves (quite cruxy) near the top make this feel imbalanced - didnt think this was worth the local guides musical symbol

Dave Musgrove ?/May/06 Lead β

One rest a few days earlier.

martroberts 10/Oct/04 Lead O/S
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