110m, 3 pitches.
This is the first route you get to when making the standard approach to the Hogsback North Face. This is a great intro to multi-pitch climbing and is well protectable throughout all 3 pitches. Slow parties are often on this route so consider going straight to Deception if Knapsack is busy.
Pitch 1: 4th-low 5th class, 100 ft. Climb just to the right of a right-facing dihedral. There are excellent places for protection in the dihedral and in the crack paralleling the dihedral.
Pitch 1 ends on a ledge where there is a large tree (good place for an anchor).
Pitch 2: 5.5, ~ 150 ft. Continue following the dihedral/slightly leftward oriented crack system. The route will steepen a bit and enter a fairly wide crack with good holds. Still, there are many places for pro. The short crux is reached where the crack narrows too much to continue inside. At the crux, there is an old but somewhat solid-looking piton to clip into. The piton is inside the crack on the right side. Other pro should be placed there, too. Move out left onto the face, using the now-narrow crack above for jams. Above this short crux section, the climbing becomes easier as it enters a broadening, shallow gully and flattens a bit. Where it flattens, there is a good seat for belaying. Resist the urge to continue climbing, because this is a comfortable spot for a gear anchor.
Pitch 3: class 4, ~100 ft. The climbing continues up the gully until it reaches the fairly flat shoulder of Hogsback. Plenty of anchor options
Pitches can be linked if belaying halfway up pitch 2 instead of at the tree.
Pitch 1: 4th-low 5th class, 100 ft. Climb just to the right of a right-facing dihedral. There are excellent places for protection in the dihedral and in the crack paralleling the dihedral.
Pitch 1 ends on a ledge where there is a large tree (good place for an anchor).
Pitch 2: 5.5, ~ 150 ft. Continue following the dihedral/slightly leftward oriented crack system. The route will steepen a bit and enter a fairly wide crack with good holds. Still, there are many places for pro. The short crux is reached where the crack narrows too much to continue inside. At the crux, there is an old but somewhat solid-looking piton to clip into. The piton is inside the crack on the right side. Other pro should be placed there, too. Move out left onto the face, using the now-narrow crack above for jams. Above this short crux section, the climbing becomes easier as it enters a broadening, shallow gully and flattens a bit. Where it flattens, there is a good seat for belaying. Resist the urge to continue climbing, because this is a comfortable spot for a gear anchor.
Pitch 3: class 4, ~100 ft. The climbing continues up the gully until it reaches the fairly flat shoulder of Hogsback. Plenty of anchor options
Pitches can be linked if belaying halfway up pitch 2 instead of at the tree.
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