40m, 2 pitches.
The following three routes are located on the east facing wall of the large gully immediately to the right of and overlooking the Mahon Falls. While the first pitch of Inarticulate Dreams contains some potentially loose rock, it was well tested. However, from the belay ledge, there are three fine lines up compact rock in an excellent situation. It is well worth abseiling in from a large block about 10m back from the cliff to climb any or all of these routes.
Start on the clean slab of rock two-thirds of the way up the left hand side of the gully, under some broken looking rock.
1. 20 m. Climb the slab on good holds until forced into a long and blind reach to the left for a good jug. Climb up steeply through an overhanging groove with some potentially loose rock, then up more easily (veer slightly left to simplify matters) and belay on a large ledge.
2. 20m. Follow a good crack, easily and spectacularly to a crack on the left side of the overhang. Climb this (5a???) to the top.
Start on the clean slab of rock two-thirds of the way up the left hand side of the gully, under some broken looking rock.
1. 20 m. Climb the slab on good holds until forced into a long and blind reach to the left for a good jug. Climb up steeply through an overhanging groove with some potentially loose rock, then up more easily (veer slightly left to simplify matters) and belay on a large ledge.
2. 20m. Follow a good crack, easily and spectacularly to a crack on the left side of the overhang. Climb this (5a???) to the top.
J. Bergin, S. Ryan 05/Aug/1989.
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