16m.

Rockfax Description
A pitch of three parts - a fingery thin crack followed by some steep pulls to a puzzling finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A tough little number that strikes a line directly up the right hand side of the cove. Start up a steep compact wall to the half height ledge ( attrition crack ) then struggle up through some steep ground using some crazy undercut sequence or power of the sloper to victory

Rob Lamey

Ticklists

The Road to 8a

Feedback

UserDateNotes
sam 23 Jun Show βeta
βeta: This route climbs the groove of the upper wall after the ledge via undercuts, pockets and sidepulls (slightly left of the line in the rockfax guide). It does not traverse right to bypass the crux. Bypassing the crux drops the grade considerably.
 
Show beta
βeta: This route climbs the groove of the upper wall after the ledge via undercuts, pockets and sidepulls (slightly left of the line in the rockfax guide). It does not traverse right to bypass the crux. Bypassing the crux drops the grade considerably.
Petar Samkov 12 May Show βeta
βeta: Quite a few options and it’s easy to do the crux harder than it’s.Last part not a walk either. Would be first 7b and felt ok ones the beta is sorted.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite a few options and it’s easy to do the crux harder than it’s.Last part not a walk either. Would be first 7b and felt ok ones the beta is sorted.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Von T 13 Jul Lead dog One go putting the draws in and taking a couple of rests. Had to retreat from the tide, so no redpoint attempt. Steep and pumpy. Cool finishing sequence.
One go putting the draws in and taking a couple of rests. Had to retreat from the tide, so no redpoint attempt. Steep and pumpy. Cool finishing sequence.
Pete Minaeian 6 Jul Lead RP
igola 22 Jun Lead dog Wonderful line, MB found a dropped knee past the mega ledge for the crux clip, the push on through to the double jug and really awesome, balancy, reachy finishing moves. Must do this clean, ran out of time due to tide.
with Maria
Wonderful line, MB found a dropped knee past the mega ledge for the crux clip, the push on through to the double jug and really awesome, balancy, reachy finishing moves. Must do this clean, ran out of time due to tide.
with Maria
joshtee25 22 Jun Lead RP Had one go on lead to warm up on the moves, felt really hard! An hour later decided I may as well have a proper go and pull the pin on the ‘try hard’ noises and faces, next thing I knew I was clipping the chains! Chuffed. First proper 7b (The Imp at Gilwern doesn’t count!)
Had one go on lead to warm up on the moves, felt really hard! An hour later decided I may as well have a proper go and pull the pin on the ‘try hard’ noises and faces, next thing I knew I was clipping the chains! Chuffed. First proper 7b (The Imp at Gilwern doesn’t count!)
Hidden 22 Jun TR dnf
Petar Samkov 8 Jun Lead RP Third time lucky!!!! ... by the skin of my teeth.Good crew at the beach today. Veneere is next
Third time lucky!!!! ... by the skin of my teeth.Good crew at the beach today. Veneere is next
Hidden 8 Jun TR dog
Sophie Nunn 8 Jun Lead dog
with Gav, Emma
with Gav, Emma
Richard Kendrick 2 Jun Lead β
Petar Samkov 1 Jun Lead dog Second time around much better but still managed to fall off after all of the hard climbing behind, seems like we’ll play third time lucky....again. Why I’m such a punter ?
Second time around much better but still managed to fall off after all of the hard climbing behind, seems like we’ll play third time lucky....again. Why I’m such a punter ?
Hidden 25 May Lead O/S
Aeron Thomas 25 May Lead O/S Really enjoyed this, pumpy fun!
with Mol
Really enjoyed this, pumpy fun!
with Mol
Hidden 18 May Lead O/S
Petar Samkov 11 May Lead dog
Rocky1339 11 May TR dnf One to comeback to with more technical knowledge :D
One to comeback to with more technical knowledge :D
Sam Brown 11 May Lead
with Eleri clarke, Sam clarke, Natalie Brown
with Eleri clarke, Sam clarke, Natalie Brown
Sam Brown 23 Apr Lead RP
with Natalie Brown
with Natalie Brown
chiverstom 20 Apr Lead RP
Rob Knowles 25 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Retro flash! Great end to a crazy day!
with OERees
Retro flash! Great end to a crazy day!
with OERees
jacobjohncharles 20 Jul, 2018 Lead β
Billg 20 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt Alzheimer's onsight (I seem to be great at forgetting route beta these days)
with Timm Oertel
Alzheimer's onsight (I seem to be great at forgetting route beta these days)
with Timm Oertel
Rory Bascombe 19 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
with Ben clark, Tom Corras, jacobjohncharles
with Ben clark, Tom Corras, jacobjohncharles
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
just one more 14 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Quick recce. Great route,steep but straightforward
with Max B
Quick recce. Great route,steep but straightforward
with Max B
soph 21 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S not climbed anything this steep for a while!
not climbed anything this steep for a while!
Wil Treasure 27 Aug, 2017 Lead β
with StephC
with StephC
steveanthony 25 Aug, 2017 Lead RP
with Andy Sharp, John Bullock
with Andy Sharp, John Bullock
simonr 15 Aug, 2017 Lead RP Messy!
with sam
Messy!
with sam
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Cassidy 14 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with spikeyhelen, Rob Sutton, Nicholas Ecoffet
with spikeyhelen, Rob Sutton, Nicholas Ecoffet
richsmithinbristol 14 Jul, 2017 Lead β Great conditions I think. Had some beta from the ground and knew the last holds from the 7a+.
with Rob Sutton
Great conditions I think. Had some beta from the ground and knew the last holds from the 7a+.
with Rob Sutton
Tophe 25 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Nina
with Nina
Hidden 6 May, 2017 Lead O/S
blaza1 2 Nov, 2016 Lead RP 1st go today, felt much easier when its not super greasy, went slightly right at the 4th bolt
1st go today, felt much easier when its not super greasy, went slightly right at the 4th bolt
blaza1 1 Nov, 2016 Lead dnf Bit wet and greasy
Bit wet and greasy
stalbot 29 Oct, 2016 Lead dnf Jumped on this with Ant. Pretty slimey conditions. Got through the power crux, but too tired for the finish sadly, with tide rapidly encroaching. Will be back.
Jumped on this with Ant. Pretty slimey conditions. Got through the power crux, but too tired for the finish sadly, with tide rapidly encroaching. Will be back.
nige 30 Jul, 2016 Lead RP
with dalvinda sohli, Steve Dunning
with dalvinda sohli, Steve Dunning
Keith Sharples 27 Jul, 2016 Lead RP Felt ok on rp - tough on-sight though
Felt ok on rp - tough on-sight though
wilchivs 22 Jul, 2016 Lead dog First go at this one, will come back for a RP.
First go at this one, will come back for a RP.
waynekinrade ?Jul, 2016 Lead RP
Glyn 23 May, 2016 Lead Not a good warmup, quiet a fight!
with Amy UT
Not a good warmup, quiet a fight!
with Amy UT
Duma Brickhill 22 May, 2016 Lead rpt did this a few years ago, still felt hard...
did this a few years ago, still felt hard...
Adam Booth 30 Aug, 2015 Lead β
Hidden 30 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 22 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
Sarah Black 2 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
Luuuuuke 1 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
mikeshewring 23 Jul, 2015 Lead RP
with sharpie
with sharpie
OERees 21 Jul, 2015 Lead rpt
Sarah Black 18 Jul, 2015 TR
Billg 18 Jul, 2015 Lead β
partz 4 Jul, 2015 Lead RP Got pumped 1st RP today and fell off on the final traverse. Worked out a nice sequence and felt easier 2nd RP. Fun route and climbs well!
with CLedden
Got pumped 1st RP today and fell off on the final traverse. Worked out a nice sequence and felt easier 2nd RP. Fun route and climbs well!
with CLedden
Hidden 4 Jul, 2015 Lead
_m.cox_ ??, 2015 Lead O/S
will6459 ??, 2015 Lead RP
Jim Tan ?Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
monsteratt 17 May, 2014 Lead dog Need more power.. oh and stamina. Thuggy stuff of the break. Good route. Did it a second time to retrieve draws and ending up climbing clip to clip. Found the rail quite tricky to read.
Need more power.. oh and stamina. Thuggy stuff of the break. Good route. Did it a second time to retrieve draws and ending up climbing clip to clip. Found the rail quite tricky to read.
Ricky Rocks 17 May, 2014 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 3 May, 2014 Lead rpt It might have ben the first ascent of the season as I had to clear lots of loose blocks and dirt. The pocket in the groove was filth. After sending it everyone got on it so it's a path now. Not easy 7b unless some crucial holds have come down. Great route!
with Rachel Keys, viki harvey
It might have ben the first ascent of the season as I had to clear lots of loose blocks and dirt. The pocket in the groove was filth. After sending it everyone got on it so it's a path now. Not easy 7b unless some crucial holds have come down. Great route!
with Rachel Keys, viki harvey
Cailean Harker ??, 2014 Lead O/S
Smokeybacon46 ??, 2014 - Had a go on the Saturday twice to learn moves and sent it second go on the Sunday. Felt right for the grade and i thugged it off the slopers and held it together on the last tricky sloping arête/shelf. First time on routes in six months as well so was stoked to get this done!
Had a go on the Saturday twice to learn moves and sent it second go on the Sunday. Felt right for the grade and i thugged it off the slopers and held it together on the last tricky sloping arête/shelf. First time on routes in six months as well so was stoked to get this done!
peteharrison06 ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Jul, 2013 Lead dog
Hidden 15 Jul, 2013 TR
Jon_Warner 13 Jul, 2013 TR dog Cool route and one to come back to.
with Jenni
Cool route and one to come back to.
with Jenni
guy xavier percival 13 Jul, 2013 Lead RP Another great route and harder than it looks.
with Simon
Another great route and harder than it looks.
with Simon
AshWH 10 Jul, 2013 Lead β
brices 29 Jun, 2013 Lead RP dragged my ass up this not sure how i stayed on
dragged my ass up this not sure how i stayed on
Tomar 8 Jun, 2013 Lead RP Third go. Soft 7b. The first of the long and steep shipwreck classics, great stuff! (Not 16m long as it says on UKC, it's at least 20m)
with Jamie, Joe Innes
Third go. Soft 7b. The first of the long and steep shipwreck classics, great stuff! (Not 16m long as it says on UKC, it's at least 20m)
with Jamie, Joe Innes
OERees 25 May, 2013 Lead RP First RP. Psyched to get this done today without any wrecking ball antics!
First RP. Psyched to get this done today without any wrecking ball antics!
westyb3 ??, 2013 Lead O/S
with Steve Winslow
with Steve Winslow
richardr 15 Sep, 2012 Lead dog Fell on the last move! Gutted. 3* route.
Fell on the last move! Gutted. 3* route.
OERees 15 Sep, 2012 Lead dog
jfreeman 15 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with Nik Goile
with Nik Goile
Hidden 5 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
valecoastclimber 1 Sep, 2012 Lead β
Hidden ??, 2012 -
13 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set