UKC

18m. Binatoke NE wall. Easy to locate and reach. Coming from the Inland Crag, walk through the col and look down to the right when you reach the edge and you will see the striking corner line of this route. Ab down the route to a good ledge well above the sea. Should be possible at all states of tide and sea. The climb is the obvious wide crack on the right hand side of the bay.

A. Tees, K. Deery, B. Johnston 12/Jul/1993


ClimberDateStyle
Pete Nugent 18/Aug/17 2nd

Pleased to have found this sheltered option well above the sea. Initially, Roger (Wilkinson) was only going to TR as the route looks as though it would be an overhanging, unprotectable off-width. However, as noted by Roger this was a great little climb. This was our final route after 4 days of climbing. Despite high winds and, at time, heavy rain we managed to climb every day. The weather seemed to be in a pattern of overnight rain lasting till mid-morning & then returning. We got the "Cricket Ferry"over at 11.00 and then returned back at 5/6pm just as the rain started again. We flew with Ryanair Liverpool - Derry and picked up a hire car, staying at Teac Campbell, Dunbeg. David Flanagans guide "Rock Climbing in Ireland"(publ 2014) was the inspiratation for our vist but only has a limited selection of routes. For this reason, I would suggest either buying the comprehensve Donegal guide or download the pdf's fromIain Millers "Unique Ascents" website http://uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide http://uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide

Rog Wilko 18/Aug/17 Lead

What a great little route! It is very steep but the holds and pro are perfect. Bridging and the odd layback move takes the sting out of the steepness. Despite appearances you don't need massive cams. The zawn is very sheltered and the route starts well above high tide, so a good choice when the sea is against you. Only 2 mins walk from the inland crag.

with Debbie Wilkinson, Pete Nugent
Garnham 05/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with jcdavy
jcdavy 05/Jul/17 2nd
with Nathan
Hidden 24/Aug/16 Lead O/S
KKilroy ??/2011 Lead O/S
Rintygold ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Andy Say 18/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Les Ross 05/Oct/02 Lead
bijou tram ??/2000 Lead
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