2942m.
The longest and most demanding via ferrata in Switzerland. Long, vertical ladders, with steep and strength-sapping climbs.
Difficulty
K5-6. The initial section is already very demanding, with an extremely exposed series of ladders to the Obere Gemsfreiheit; the "big via ferrata" is then considerably more difficult, being very steep throughout, and in parts also extremely airy. Excellent physical condition and plenty of stamina in the arms, together with robust nerves, are essential for this tour! It is only to be attempted when you are sure of good weather; and if you experience difficulties on the "small via ferrata", you really must take the alternative early route down via Mieläss! There is a significant risk of rock-fall in the gorge above the Gemsfreiheit, and following rain or storms the route is therefore dangerous whatever your level of ability.
Starting-point
From Leukerbad (1,401 m), with its instructive view towards the south-eastern wall of the Daubenhorn, take the cable-car route up to the Gemmi Pass (2,322 m). The cable-car operates from 8.00 - 18.00; Leukerbad can be reached by bus from Susten-Leuk (station).
Walk-in
From the cable-car station (2,346 m), take the old Gemmi path and a couple of loops on the old Pass trail (in part with railings) down to the Untere Schmitte, where a sign directs you to the via ferrata (approx. 2,060 m), 20 minutes. Alternatively, follow the path from the campsite below (2 hours to start).
To descend; take the white-blue-white marked route across the (crevasse-free) Daubenhorn glacier down to Lämmerenboden and, keeping to the right, back to the Gemmi Pass, 2 hours.
Difficulty
K5-6. The initial section is already very demanding, with an extremely exposed series of ladders to the Obere Gemsfreiheit; the "big via ferrata" is then considerably more difficult, being very steep throughout, and in parts also extremely airy. Excellent physical condition and plenty of stamina in the arms, together with robust nerves, are essential for this tour! It is only to be attempted when you are sure of good weather; and if you experience difficulties on the "small via ferrata", you really must take the alternative early route down via Mieläss! There is a significant risk of rock-fall in the gorge above the Gemsfreiheit, and following rain or storms the route is therefore dangerous whatever your level of ability.
Starting-point
From Leukerbad (1,401 m), with its instructive view towards the south-eastern wall of the Daubenhorn, take the cable-car route up to the Gemmi Pass (2,322 m). The cable-car operates from 8.00 - 18.00; Leukerbad can be reached by bus from Susten-Leuk (station).
Walk-in
From the cable-car station (2,346 m), take the old Gemmi path and a couple of loops on the old Pass trail (in part with railings) down to the Untere Schmitte, where a sign directs you to the via ferrata (approx. 2,060 m), 20 minutes. Alternatively, follow the path from the campsite below (2 hours to start).
To descend; take the white-blue-white marked route across the (crevasse-free) Daubenhorn glacier down to Lämmerenboden and, keeping to the right, back to the Gemmi Pass, 2 hours.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andy Cloquet | 11 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: I have completed many French, Italian & Swiss VF and this is most certainly an extreme route. It is easily VF6 in a number of sections (so how this is graded Mid VF5c by some is incomprehensible) for its sheer length, seriousness & frequent o/ hanging sections and many wire only sections where your feet are simply on the rock. Many easier VF have an abundance of steel rods & staples; this doesn’t and the Variant at the top of the main section, after walking a short tunnel & before a lengthy climb to the final rock scoop & 100m of ladder, is only provided with one or two essential bits of metal. Utter stupendous exposure of over 2000m to Leukerbad below. Finally, there are many sections which are minimally equipped with anything other than steel bars driven into the rock - many parts are superbly fitted out with stainless steel staples but there are sections with neither the staples nor the bars - just padding on the rock! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I have completed many French, Italian & Swiss VF and this is most certainly an extreme route. It is easily VF6 in a number of sections (so how this is graded Mid VF5c by some is incomprehensible) for its sheer length, seriousness & frequent o/ hanging sections and many wire only sections where your feet are simply on the rock. Many easier VF have an abundance of steel rods & staples; this doesn’t and the Variant at the top of the main section, after walking a short tunnel & before a lengthy climb to the final rock scoop & 100m of ladder, is only provided with one or two essential bits of metal. Utter stupendous exposure of over 2000m to Leukerbad below. Finally, there are many sections which are minimally equipped with anything other than steel bars driven into the rock - many parts are superbly fitted out with stainless steel staples but there are sections with neither the staples nor the bars - just padding on the rock! |
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| ipfreely | 21 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Epic day out, we got the first cable car up at 08:00 and at the first cable for about 08:40, the first part is steady but entertaining, but once past the huge flag and possible walk off things get a bit tougher and the exposure goes up several notches. The bridge into the cave is special and the end of the cave offers some tough bits, it does have an easier option but that went through a waterfall. Later on there is another 2 way option left easier or right harder with big exposure, take this for full value, there is a bit of walking between this and the final section, which has a steep long ladder to finish you off. Then on to the summit. The long walk down takes up to 2 hours and crossing the glacier early on is slippy and you will get very wet feet if your not wearing big boots. Overall a great & challenging day. 3 stars. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Epic day out, we got the first cable car up at 08:00 and at the first cable for about 08:40, the first part is steady but entertaining, but once past the huge flag and possible walk off things get a bit tougher and the exposure goes up several notches. The bridge into the cave is special and the end of the cave offers some tough bits, it does have an easier option but that went through a waterfall. Later on there is another 2 way option left easier or right harder with big exposure, take this for full value, there is a bit of walking between this and the final section, which has a steep long ladder to finish you off. Then on to the summit. The long walk down takes up to 2 hours and crossing the glacier early on is slippy and you will get very wet feet if your not wearing big boots. Overall a great & challenging day. 3 stars. |
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| Jeremy Wilton | 18 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Birds disturb rocks as do other via ferrata climbers. MUST wear a lid. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Birds disturb rocks as do other via ferrata climbers. MUST wear a lid. |
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