148m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An inspiring route that tackles the full length of the back wall of the bay. Start on the grey slabs below and left of the vast orange scoop in the back wall. Belay at the treeline or scramble up to where the wall steepens. The first bolt is an old one.
1) 6a. Climb the wall to a stance below a steeper section of wall.
2) 6c (6a/A0 ). Make a hard pull past the steep section (slightly easier on the left) and continue to a stance.
3) 5+. Climb to a stance on a ledge with trees.
4) 6a. Climb straight past an overhang to a ledge (optional stance). Traverse right to a small stance below a corner.
5) 5+. Traverse right for 8m then climb directly up the wall to the cliff top.
Descent - Single 70m rope minimum. Abseil from top of Sol Solet to the shared belay with Princesa. Continue down Princesa to a tree ledge stance. Continue down Princesa to the top of the second pitch. Two further abseils down Princesa to the ground. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Mallorca: Top 50.

rachelpearce01 05/Oct AltLd
George_Surf 05/Oct AltLd dog

P1 is good, worth 6a/+. I led p2, the crux section is nails I tried to go right of the bolts, aided it, still worth 6a+ above, steep on sharp rock. I led p3 which has a hard start but eases after halfway (chains) to the tree ledge. P4 is very sustained on sharp steep rock, no real crux, worth 6a+ and it’s long 40m. Abseiled off from this point. Too hot/tired/hands+feet shredded. Good but hard going. Exciting route. 3 abseils 50m to the ground

Hoyes 07/Apr AltLd O/S

Aided the 6c bit. Best route of the week.

with Dan L
cymjt 07/Apr AltLd
charmoz 01/Apr Lead dog

First three pitches only. Harmed on the bolts on the crux. Still brilliant though. Got really cold in the wind.

with JC
F.Wish ?/Apr Lead RP
adi bryant 26/Mar AltLd dnf
with ian Wignall, Jimmy
Stoney Boy 06/Feb AltLd O/S

Bitterly cold. Very high quality climbing.

with Nickc
Nickc 06/Feb Lead O/S
tuukka 26/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
with Erik
Hidden 26/Dec/16 AltLd
Hidden 06/Nov/15 Lead
The old James turnbull 17/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Lead it all, done with dad and my brother Robert. Dad had done it before 25 years earlier! Agreed that each pitch may be hard for the grade. All free.

Melchior Meyer ?/Aug/15 AltLd dog
with Charles
RichyBOYY 13/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

One of the best multi's ive done. Epic climbing the whole way. I lead the crux pitch and the roof - amzzing climbing although every pitch is way under graded (welcome to sa gubia) crux pitch 7a?

with Levon
Albachoss 18/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic, though a little confusing with mid-pitch belays. Sustained! Aid point P2

Pete_Hamlin 18/Dec/13 AltLd
Fred_Richard 18/Oct/13 -
with bill turner
sophiecb 17/Oct/11 AltLd dog

Quality climbing throughout: tricky crux with barely anything for the feet and 'crozzly' crimps for the fingers; more sharp 'crozzliness' on the 6a bulge on penultimate pitch, which hurt my softcore fingers. Led the easier pitches: 3 and the final glory pitch, which had awesome exposure and some steep trickery. A memorable Sa Gubia adventure despite the battle:)

with Chad
Chad123 17/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Great route but very sustained and all pitches seem tough for grades, we thought more like 6a, 6c+, 6a, 6a+ and 6a. Lots of climbing and crux especially is very thin for feet!

Hidden 28/Sep/11 AltLd
Chi Cheng 25/Apr/11 AltLd dog

Pitch 1 was long (35m ish) - Chi Lead, Pitch 2 was hard and very little for feet - Jon lead dogged, i fell off 2nd ing. 3rd pitch has an extra belay in the middle; thought it was the end of pitch 3 (thought i ran 3 and 4 together) - Chi Lead. pitch 4 real has and extra belay and chain or 2. jon got to end of pitch 4 and we thought it was the end of the climbing so abseil off. we therefore did not do the last pitch.

Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
lx 20/Mar/09 Lead O/S

First stance doesn't look so bad. Route description seems to be slightly confusing as there are a lot more bolts now and quite a few belay chains. We did it in 6 pitches? Possible to go direct on last pitch, (looks better than the traverse which although easy, is pretty run out). Also seems to be an extra belay chain in the middle of pitch four/five. Nice route though, good end to the trip.

with Jen
Glyn 16/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Jonny
Hidden ?/Mar/09 -
Kyuzo ??/2007 -
cem 14/May/04 AltLd dog

Led p2 & 4. Had to aid crux of p2

with Dave Amos
Hidden 26/Mar/04 AltLd
rockofades ?/Apr/01 AltLd O/S
with DB
Roget 17/Nov/97 AltLd O/S
with jon
uphillnow 07/Apr/97 Lead
with John Hubbard
ukb & bmc shark 31/Jan/97 AltLd
D Tempest 28/Nov/93 AltLd
with Rick
Nick Biven ?/Dec/92 Lead O/S


with Ray Jenkins
Mike Owen 25/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Paul Clarke ??/1984 -
with Gary Nuttall
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