Rockfax Description
An amazing route that weaves its way up the shady right-hand side of the bay through some dramatic territory. Pitch 3 uses bolt-on holds to cross the bulging section. This gives access to the last two pitches which are superb. Start below the pillar of rock below the right-hand side of the cave.
1) 4a. Climb to the base of the corner.
2) 6a+. Pull up and right onto the wall, then climb to the ledge below an impressive bulging wall.
3) 6b+. Traverse right, then heave up the tufas and 'bolt-ons' - reachy! These have worked loose over the years, making this pitch quite hard. A sling may be needed for aid.
4) 6b. Make a superb, rising traverse leftwards, on immaculate rock and just enough holds, to a hanging belay.
5) 6b. Traverse back right and up the open groove to the top.
Descent - Abseil down the route. On a single 60m, you will need to make three abseils via stances at the end of pitches 3 and 1. © Rockfax
ROCKFAX Mallorca: Top 50 , Mallorca Multi-pitch
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Grade: 6b+ ***
(Cala Serena)