103m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An amazing route that weaves its way up the shady right-hand side of the bay through some dramatic territory. If you can come to terms with the ethical dilemma of the bolt-on holds on pitch 3, then you will be able to reach the last two pitches which are superb. Start below the pillar of rock below the right-hand side of the cave.
1) 4. Climb to the base of the corner.
2) 6a+. Pull up and right onto the wall, then climb to the ledge below an impressive bulging wall.
3) 6b+. Traverse right, then heave up the tufas and 'bolt-ons'. These have worked loose over the years, making this pitch quite hard. A sling may be needed for aid.
4) 6b. Make a superb, rising traverse leftwards, on immaculate rock and just enough holds, to a hanging belay. As good as it gets!
5) 6b. Traverse back right and up the open groove to the top.
Descent - Abseil down the route. With a single 60m rope, you will need to make three abseils via stances at the end of pitches 3 and 1 © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Mallorca: Top 50.


ClimberDateStyle
George_Surf 10/Oct Lead O/S

Wild! Glad we did it in the end but felt you could add half a grade to every pitch 4+/6b/6b+/6b+/6b I led 1,3&5. P1 is easy. P2 was tricky to start, don’t go in to the featureless groove instead use the crack above, p3 has very long reaches between the bolt on holds but they are good jugs, above is a delicate traverse, I started low but eneded up doing it high as a foot traverse. P4 is wild, so many thin moves across exposed ground. It’s never impossible but gets very close with many small holds and delicate movement. P5 has one hard move going right in to the groove but that’s it. Excellent and tiring/taxing. Abseiled off the top to p1 stance in 50m JUST

rachelpearce01 10/Oct AltLd dog
gem_stone12 05/Oct AltLd O/S
LJC 13/May AltLd O/S

P1,3,5

with Herve
hervenuttall ?/May AltLd

lead pitch 2 and 4. about as good as it gets

with LJC
steveanthony 07/Apr AltLd
gingernick 07/Apr AltLd O/S

Utterly brilliant climb with super exposure. Very memorable.

Hoyes 05/Apr AltLd dnf

Started raining on the fourth pitch so bailed. Second pitch seemed hard, had to pull on a quickdraw.

with Dan L
abi.k.l 05/Apr 2nd dnf

Just did the first pitch (grade 4). Enjoyable.

yossarian714 05/Apr Lead dnf

P1 only

cymjt 05/Apr AltLd
David Kay 05/Apr 2nd dnf
Hidden 11/Mar Lead
Lakesben 11/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & P4. Superb route. P4 is incredible, 'just enough' holds is exactly right and a cunning finish. Well bolted throughout.

with The Plough
Melchior Meyer ?/Aug/15 AltLd dog
with Charles
charlied ??/2015 AltLd dog
with melchior meyer
Sophie Nunn 04/Oct/14 AltLd
with Alex
AlexD 04/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

led 1, 3 and 5. pulled on a couple of draws through reachy bolt-on section.

with Sophie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 21/May/14 AltLd
Duncan Campbell 21/May/14 AltLd

Had to pull on a bolt to make a reach between pretty spaced bolt-on holds on 3rd pitch - but as it's pretty artificial anyway I'm not too bothered. Led P1+2 and P4+5 in two oners. P4+5 is absolutely awesome.

with Robbie
RKirke 17/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
with Ryu
BigTone 11/Oct/13 2nd dog

Amazing route, P4 felt much harder than 6b.

Chad123 20/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Great route, especially middle pitches, screw on holds now firmly attached and this steep pitch contrasts well with delicate one which follows....

with Emily
bsparky 09/Oct/11 Lead dnf

1st pitch only, F4.

with Sam Cooper
Dave 88 17/Sep/11 2nd dnf

Only climbed 1st pitch then couldn't remember which line of bolts to take so had to ab off. Idiots!

Hidden 16/Nov/10 AltLd
Simon Rackley ?/Oct/09 Lead

awesome climb, lead pitch 1,3,4,5.

with stan hodson
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead O/S
mbutton ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Adgar
Hidden 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Lone Rider ?/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Nice swivelling hold!

with Andy Tibbs
Hidden ?/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
will9911 ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/08 2nd
Hidden 09/May/06 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
matt.woodfield ?/Apr/05 AltLd
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd
Fletch168 ?/Oct/01 TR
Hidden ??/2000 -
skygodley 10/Sep/99 AltLd
Hidden 01/Apr/99 Lead O/S
Jon Read ?/Mar/98 AltLd
with Justin Owen
Roget 18/Nov/97 Lead O/S
with jon
Mike Owen 25/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
jon 20/May/87 Lead
with H
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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set