46m. Once a standard-setting 5.9, today Moby Dick is rated 5.10a and is still stout for its grade. Technical climbing off the deck is followed by sustained, widening and sometimes awkward moves. The second crux, a fist crack at the top, is just a hair narrower than a true off-width crack. Bring a healthy selection of 2-4? cams to adequately protect this wide section.

FA: Herb Swedlund, Penny Carr FFA: Frank Sacherer, Steve Roper May/1963

Feedback

UserDateNotes
seankenny 11 May Show βeta
βeta: Totally classic route. Protect the lower wide crack section using the seam to the right, takes small cams and wires, saving your big stuff for the upper section. #4s ideal but there’s a place for a #2 if your short on the big stuff.
 
Show beta
βeta: Totally classic route. Protect the lower wide crack section using the seam to the right, takes small cams and wires, saving your big stuff for the upper section. #4s ideal but there’s a place for a #2 if your short on the big stuff.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
TomOxenham 4 Aug Lead O/S Amazing line. Just managed to get this without slipping out of the crack. Used up my big cams early on which I regretted by the time I got to the top section. Sustained fun!
with Kevin Eloury
Amazing line. Just managed to get this without slipping out of the crack. Used up my big cams early on which I regretted by the time I got to the top section. Sustained fun!
with Kevin Eloury
Hidden 31 May Lead O/S
Hidden 11 May Lead O/S
Hidden ?May Lead RP
Hidden 29 Apr Lead O/S
janegallwey 25 Apr 2nd O/S
Jo Morrison 28 Dec, 2018 2nd dog Did OK until the wide crack at the top
with Jeremy
Did OK until the wide crack at the top
with Jeremy
lanky ?Oct, 2018 Lead Top off width felt sustained, took a rest
with Pat rainbird
Top off width felt sustained, took a rest
with Pat rainbird
littleluke 29 Sep, 2017 Lead
Pippa 13 Oct, 2016 Lead dog So hard, fist jams my arse, definitely off width unless you have giant hands. Must learn to hand stack. Needs 3 size 4 not to be totally terrified
So hard, fist jams my arse, definitely off width unless you have giant hands. Must learn to hand stack. Needs 3 size 4 not to be totally terrified
monsteratt ?May, 2016 Lead O/S
Greg M 10 Sep, 2015 AltLd
with K1
with K1
K1 10 Sep, 2015 AltLd
with Greg M
with Greg M
ashtond6 30 May, 2015 Lead 5.10 is cruiser, 5.9 is so hard
5.10 is cruiser, 5.9 is so hard
Hidden 29 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
alooker 24 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with mrteale
with mrteale
mrteale 24 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with alooker
with alooker
jonnybull 27 Apr, 2014 Lead dnf The bottom finger crack crux felt easy, but then I got schooled in wide crack climbing. Will be back with more psyche, skin and a second #4 camalot.
with Casey
The bottom finger crack crux felt easy, but then I got schooled in wide crack climbing. Will be back with more psyche, skin and a second #4 camalot.
with Casey
Hidden 6 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Andy Fielding 28 May, 2013 2nd
MonkeyDawson ?May, 2013 Lead
with Simon Smith
with Simon Smith
clanger ??, 2013 -
Hidden ?Oct, 2011 -
Hidden 19 Sep, 1981 Lead
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Voting
High 5.10b
Mid 5.10b
Low 5.10b
High 5.10a
Mid 5.10a
Low 5.10a
High 5.9
Mid 5.9
Low 5.9
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set