UKC Logbook - 'Country for Old Men RH'

SDS An easier version of the proper line (i.e.up the central scoop), using two edges immediately left of the blunt arete.

User	Date		Notes
C Witter	31 Aug, 2021	Show βeta βeta: My understanding of this is you use the small footrail for feet, one of the standard crimps on the right wall of the groove with your lh and a hold basically on the arete with your rh to make a dynamic throw for the flake. It seems eliminate on paper, but it's basically the easiest sitstart direct to the flake, so it's a very logical solution. Good problem - possibly f6C. The RH can be a bigger sloper or a smaller crimp slightly left, but it doesn't substantially affect the difficulty so I wouldn't overthink it. Additionally, you can climb this as two dynos: first from pulling on to the flake, and then from the flake and foot rail to the jugs at the top. It's a fun way to do the problem.
Show beta βeta: My understanding of this is you use the small footrail for feet, one of the standard crimps on the right wall of the groove with your lh and a hold basically on the arete with your rh to make a dynamic throw for the flake. It seems eliminate on paper, but it's basically the easiest sitstart direct to the flake, so it's a very logical solution. Good problem - possibly f6C. The RH can be a bigger sloper or a smaller crimp slightly left, but it doesn't substantially affect the difficulty so I wouldn't overthink it. Additionally, you can climb this as two dynos: first from pulling on to the flake, and then from the flake and foot rail to the jugs at the top. It's a fun way to do the problem.