Rockfax Description
Originally climbed with some bits of drilled gear, the right-hand side of the smooth wall now gives an awesome route which has become surprisingly popular (F7c). Start at a thin crack below and right of the smooth wall (as for Hysteria). Climb the crack for 5m then move left to a ledge. Attack the desperate crack above to gain some reasonable but hard-earned protection. Move left to a thread and a rest - crucial runner in slot to back-up thread. Climb up above then make a difficult undercut traverse rightwards and move back left to two threads. Move up into some scoops (old pegs - not crucial) above then climb the wall to a wide crack which leads to Mysteries. Finish direct up the headwall which is still taxing. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Edit: The "old pegs - not crucial" are currently (summer 2012) "single shiny peg" not sure when it was put in though. Jacob.

FA. S.Monks 16/Jun/1991

Ticklists: The Best of Pembroke.

Ged Desforges 23/Apr Lead β

Perfect beta from Olly. What a route. 7b+ seems about right. Hard climbing but good rests. safe as houses.

Sash.C 22/Apr Lead G/U

Second go. Awesome!

with Ged
soph 30/May/16 2nd dog
Hidden 30/May/16 Lead dog
Hidden 29/May/16 2nd β
will smith11 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Meant to go for point blank but wimped out and went up this.

with Frances
Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 08/Apr/15 Lead G/U

Psyched! Brilliant route, good climbing all the way. Ground up, third go. First attempt was unlucky slip, second was pumped but went fine on the third. Mega

with Oli Grounsell
Adam Booth 07/Apr/15 TR dog

Account open.

jacobjacob 12/Jul/14 -

Replaced the threads, now is your time!

i_a_coops ?/Jul/14 Lead

Ground up second go. Had a bit of a moment on the flash attempt and jumped for the thread at the top of the runout! Good beta from Jacob.

jacobjacob 06/May/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Onwards and leftwards...?

owenH ??/2011 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S

All chalked, get on it now!

with Ed Brown
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/03 Lead β

inspected on ab the previous day. Great Route

Mike Owen 16/Apr/90 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
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High E8
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High 6c
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High 6b
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High 6a
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Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set