Rockfax Description
Originally climbed with some bits of drilled gear, the right-hand side of the smooth wall now gives an awesome route which has become surprisingly popular. Start at a thin crack below and right of the smooth wall (as for Hysteria). Climb the crack for 5m then move left to a ledge. Attack the desperate crack above to gain some reasonable (but hard-earned) protection. Move left to a thread and a rest - crucial runner in slot to back up the thread. Climb up above then make a difficult undercut traverse rightwards and move back left to two threads. Move up into some scoops (old pegs - not crucial) above then climb the wall to a wide crack which leads to Mysteries. Finish direct up the headwall which is still taxing. Sport 7c+. © Rockfax
FA. S.Monks, P.Bingham 16/Jun/1991.
Ticklists
The Best of Pembroke , 101Pembroke Extremes , 100 Worthwhile E7's , 30 For My 30s , Pembroke dreams
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Keendan | 29 Jul, 2024 |
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βeta: Low crux jug was wobbly and can see from the comments that it has now gone, but route still getting climbed. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Low crux jug was wobbly and can see from the comments that it has now gone, but route still getting climbed. |
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| tintinandpip | 31 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Originally did this in 2014, great to follow Nez today, brilliant route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Originally did this in 2014, great to follow Nez today, brilliant route. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stennis Ford
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Hindenburg
Grade: E7 6c ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)