Rockfax Description
Originally climbed with some bits of drilled gear, the right-hand side of the smooth wall now gives an awesome route which has become surprisingly popular (F7c). Start at a thin crack below and right of the smooth wall (as for Hysteria). Climb the crack for 5m then move left to a ledge. Attack the desperate crack above to gain some reasonable but hard-earned protection. Move left to a thread and a rest - crucial runner in slot to back-up thread. Climb up above then make a difficult undercut traverse rightwards and move back left to two threads. Move up into some scoops (old pegs - not crucial) above then climb the wall to a wide crack which leads to Mysteries. Finish direct up the headwall which is still taxing. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Edit: The "old pegs - not crucial" are currently (summer 2012) "single shiny peg" not sure when it was put in though. Jacob.

FA. S.Monks 16/Jun/1991

Ticklists: The Best of Pembroke, The Lifetime List.

Hidden 02/Sep/17 Lead RP
Wil Treasure 02/Sep/17 Lead RP

Fell off at the second set of threads! Did it on Dunc's gear afterwards.

Ramon Marin 02/Sep/17 TR dog

Quick play

J_Spooner 30/Aug/17 2nd dog

Got in just in time before everyone else post firing! 1 rest for me, Ben got it on his first Headpoint go!

with Ben Smart
valecoastclimber 12/Aug/17 Lead RP
nathanlee 26/May/17 Lead O/S

Get in! Had chalk on it but knew nothing. So nearly lost it by the threads, couldnt take a hand off to clip so just kept moving and clipped from above. Def a memorable battle. Lucky that the range opened early just before we went govans!

with Heather
HeatherF 26/May/17 2nd dog
with Nathan
Ged Desforges 23/Apr/17 Lead β

Perfect beta from Olly. What a route. 7b+ seems about right. Hard climbing but good rests. safe as houses.

Hidden 22/Apr/17 Lead G/U
Hidden ??/2017 -
irish paul ?/Sep/16 TR β

Stripped the gear while Ali was working Point Blank. Done in a one, ready to get on the sharp end.

with ali k
soph 30/May/16 2nd dog
GPN 30/May/16 Lead dog
with Sophie
GPN 29/May/16 2nd β
with Mikey G
will smith11 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Meant to go for point blank but wimped out and went up this.

with Frances
Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 08/Apr/15 Lead G/U

Psyched! Brilliant route, good climbing all the way. Ground up, third go. First attempt was unlucky slip, second was pumped but went fine on the third. Mega

with Oli Grounsell
Adam Booth 07/Apr/15 TR dog

Account open.

jacobjacob 12/Jul/14 -

Replaced the threads, now is your time!

i_a_coops ?/Jul/14 Lead

Ground up second go. Had a bit of a moment on the flash attempt and jumped for the thread at the top of the runout! Good beta from Jacob.

jacobjacob 06/May/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Onwards and leftwards...?

owenH ??/2011 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S

All chalked, get on it now!

with Ed Brown
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/03 Lead β

inspected on ab the previous day. Great Route

Mike Owen 16/Apr/90 Lead O/S

This was originally climbed by Gary Gibson with some stainless steel pegs for protection. Why his name isn't recorded as the FA I don't know. Steve was the first to do it without the stainless steel pegs. I was there at the time they were still in and was happy enough to do the route whatever. Never thought anything about the pegs, too busy onsight to notice that they were supposed to be in drilled placements.

with Elaine Owen
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Style of ascent
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