45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
After a hard start the most famous route in the Ford gives steady HVS climbing up the impressive scoop-line. The lack of grade consistency slightly detracts from the route and it is a fairly low E3 but the start shouldn't be underestimated since it is a little bold. Start below the long scoop-line.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb the scoop with difficulty then follow the ramp up leftwards for 10m and belay where it is most comfortable.
2) 5a, 25m. Continue up the scoops, past a small bulge, to the horizontal break. Move left for 5m then climb past some holes in the wall to a corner on the left. Finish up this. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 13/Nov/1977

Ticklists: 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Becky's ticklist.

Paul ablitt 29/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 28/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Lessworkmoreclimbing 19/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Kev led pitch 1. I fell off seconding - I blame having to step up to get gear out then being unable to step back down to work the move out due to rope being taken in.... I led pitch 2, maybe went slightly too far on the traverse, it wasn't that clear when you're up there - pleasant pitch either way.

with Kev
Flavio 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/17 2nd
andyinglis 04/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Didn't enjoy the crux, worrying.

Neil Adams 04/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2017 -
mattnuttall 30/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Start was bit greasy and therefore felt hard... First route in the Ford, a good one to open the account with

Andrew Wilson 30/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/16 Lead dog
MichaelGallimore 14/Aug/16 2nd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 13/Aug/16 Lead rpt
mynyddresident 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. Great natural line.

with Tony P, KP
phil64 30/May/16 Lead


with Andy Bowman
Misha 30/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Eszter
Hidden 29/May/16 AltLd
Chris_barr 29/May/16 Lead
with John Roberts
Hidden 24/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Wendy 24/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
with Sash.C
Mike Todd 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Second pitch. All of Neil's gear fell out on the start of pitch one!!!

with Neil Hillis
richsmithinbristol 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Second pitch lead

Graham Atkins 27/Sep/15 AltLd
anguskille 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch which was cheeky but great climbing. Finished top pitch direct. Good interesting climbing all the way

with Mike Grant
pete johnson 12/Aug/15 AltLd
with Dave Rumney
Dave Rumney 12/Aug/15 AltLd
with Pete Johnston
Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 31/Jul/15 Lead rpt

The start seems to have got harder. The crucial nut (#4) is directional and needs care or a pumped E3 hopeful could come a cropper. Did the finish of From a Distance instead of completing the traverse. Makes a more exciting steep 5b ish finish

with Viv
Greg Cunningham 19/Jul/15 2nd

lead with 1 fall (dog) in 1986. still felt like hard/bold move near start.

with nic sellars, rob grant
Kris2fa 11/Jul/15 2nd dog
with Adam24B
Adam24B 11/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 25/May/15 AltLd O/S
The Grist 23/May/15 AltLd O/S

I led the first pitch which had a tough sequence. The gear looked good but was pre placed by Paul who did not test it. Paul went onto something hard on the second pitch which made it more exciting than it should have been. Not an amazing route.....more a great experience.

PaulTanton 23/May/15 AltLd rpt

I failed on the first pitch and then got a bit lost at the end of the top pitch. Strayed onto Point Blank! A comedy of errors. Glad to get to the pub.

malx ?/May/15 Lead O/S
wi11 08/Apr/15 AltLd β

P2 finished up "From a Distance", this made the second pitch more worthwhile at E2ish

eel 06/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Jack93 21/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Fell off at the top of the groove seconding the first pitch, lead the top pitch clean

spidermonkey09 21/Mar/15 Lead G/U

P1. Fell off the top move in the groove but went again and felt fine. Damp, greasy conditions didn't help!

Ramon Marin 15/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

lead the crux pitch, thinking it was going to be piss as a warm up. Suddenly I was gripped, the gear at the start is not amazing, and it felt E3 to me, not HVS as some people say. Regardless, incredible route, great outing, fanstastic rock, go and do it.

with ciaran tracey
Ciro 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Took the easy lead on the second pitch and found it a lot of fun, once I'd warmed up from the rookie mistake of not taking enough clothing down into the ford to belay!

with Ramon
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
squicky 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S

P1 only. Hard start then fine.

with John
Ollie B 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with B.Brewer
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/14 AltLd O/S
Justin T 04/May/14 AltLd O/S


with Rachel
Rachel Slater 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2.

irish paul 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
Sarah Black 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Tom Livingstone 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S


Adam Lincoln 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Rick Kirby
Rich Kirby 18/Apr/14 AltLd rpt
Duncan Campbell 17/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Reachy, technical climbing at the beginning of P1, enough gear but it feels as though if it gets weighted the wrong way it would pull. Great climbing throughout though, with the top being an ace HVS. Was a little damp at the bottom - should have listened to Guy!

with GuyVG
Wood for Trees 17/Apr/14 AltLd

P2, very nice. P1 has quite a nasty crux in my opinion.

owain86 15/Apr/14 Lead RP
with Chris
phil64 ?/Apr/14 AltLd
with tom livingstone
mike mo ??/2014 -
steve.warrington 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd Pitch

Hidden 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
metal arms 01/Sep/13 Lead dog

Lots of rests at the big move to easy ground.

John Nuttall 01/Sep/13 AltLd

Seconded the crux pitch

with Jon
Matt Cooke 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S


with Sam Taylor
shoulders 19/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Alice Thompson 01/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Michael Porter
Hidden 01/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
climbingsheep 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S

First E3

with Jake Young, Mike Watson
Jake Young 15/Jun/13 2nd O/S
tebs 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rich
soph 25/May/13 AltLd rpt
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Toby Dunn 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Simon Palmer
Pippa 05/May/13 Lead O/S
mountain_jay 05/May/13 2nd
Fran S8 04/May/13 AltLd

lead second pitch

quiffhanger 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Done in 1 monster pitch. Def E3 given the start: 5m of poorly protected climbing on slippy and slightly dubious looking rock, culminating in a tricky crux!

with Kate
The_Boy_ODwyer 27/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Colin Harvey
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd
AJM 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

The obvious line of weakness on the first crag I ever saw in the range, great to get on it! Cool line and good positions, great stuff.

LRob ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
jcw ??/2013 -
al99 16/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Luke Thomas
Ed morris 16/Aug/12 AltLd

Fell of on the tricky move, holds were wet and not properly warmed up. Led top pitch which felt 5b.

with Adam Bevan
richiebongo 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch, Nick led the 2nd

with Nick Smith
Hidden 07/May/12 2nd
jacobjacob 07/May/12 Lead O/S

Pitch one, soaking wet, horrendous.

dan gibson 05/May/12 AltLd rpt
with richard lade
bigie bob 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Nicola 02/Jul/11 2nd β
with Lee
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
mountain.martin 18/Jun/11 2nd dog

One short(ish) rest.

Hidden 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S
haydng 14/May/11 AltLd O/S

Easy pitch for me thanks!

with Rob
Ally Smith 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with GrantB
GrantB 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
owenH ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Ed Babs 27/Sep/10 Lead β

led P1 led P2 previously 04/May/09 w. Harry

with Harry
billb ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
harold walmsley 03/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Oh dear

with Colin Struthers
Hidden 29/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/10 AltLd O/S
Chad123 23/May/10 AltLd dog

Disappointed to rest on this, was a bit too slimy and technical for a warm up, felt easy after a quick rest! Should have gone for it really. Nice varied climb in a great position, Em managed to go off route on top pitch and find the hardest climbing possible, more like 5b for sure! So hot today (28degrees) we went to the beach after this one!

with Emily
Ricky Rocks 22/May/10 Lead O/S

Nice to finally climb a route in the ford, a good wandering climb.

geoff b 20/Sep/09 AltLd
pete johnson 20/Sep/09 AltLd
drcorbasisgod 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Dave Bond 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Rob Kennard ?/May/09 -
with Jane Weir, Andy Schofield
Hidden 12/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead
climbergg 02/Aug/08 2nd
Tim M 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Emma
morganator 13/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Rich Cross
ASchwirtz 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
alek 08/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Lead first pitch, technical, reachy moves to leave the vertical groove, after this hvs/E1. Worthwhile.

Ben1983 25/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
feilx 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 28/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
janegallwey ??/2007 2nd
dan gibson 30/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with martina
Mark Davies PK 06/Apr/06 AltLd O/S

Seconded first pitch and rested on the crux - well pumped!! Lead second pitch clean though

with Fiend (on multipitch!?!)
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
ellis ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Will Woodhead
Tim Steward 22/May/05 Lead
with Nick Lambert
Hidden 08/May/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Gus 30/May/04 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 10/Apr/04 AltLd O/S

Climbed previously with Simon Gee

with KM
whispering nic ?/Jul/03 -
with lee byrnes
LC ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 27/Aug/01 -
with Adrian Pedley
Rock Fairy ?/Aug/01 AltLd

Went a bit off route at the top.

with david
pete johnson ?/May/00 AltLd
with Hughie
Hidden 03/May/99 AltLd O/S
WB ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Guy
GuyM ??/1999 -
with will
Hidden ??/1999 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 02/May/98 AltLd
with Muir Morton
lorens holm ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Clare
Hidden 31/May/97 Lead
duncan 30/Mar/97 2nd
pete johnson 02/Jul/95 Lead
with Kevin Sales
Roget 21/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with jon
neilh 15/Apr/95 AltLd O/S
with mark griffiths
Hidden 25/Jul/93 AltLd O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1993 2nd O/S
with Kelvin Grice
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/92 AltLd
with Andy Mackay
Hidden 20/Jul/91 Lead
jfletcher 16/Jun/91 Lead O/S
with Neil Thompson
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1990 -
with LUMC
Bruce Kerr 29/Mar/89 AltLd
Hidden ??/1989 AltLd O/S
wynaptomos ?/Jul/88 2nd rpt
Eduardo Martinez 30/May/88 AltLd O/S

I led second pitch

Billg 26/Jul/87 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Hidden 25/Jul/87 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 31/May/87 AltLd
with Rich, John, Dave from London
wynaptomos ?/Apr/87 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Neil McA 16/Aug/86 AltLd O/S

Great route, led the crux.

with Jim Dockery
Steve Clegg 03/Apr/86 AltLd
with Gough
keefe 17/Feb/86 -
Derek Furze ??/1986 -
Hidden 19/Jul/85 2nd
Seymore Butt ??/1985 AltLd
with Spuz
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Mark Kemball 23/Jul/83 Lead
with Dave Abbey
Mike Owen 06/Apr/83 Lead O/S
with Phil Ralph
Dave Musgrove 12/Apr/82 Lead
Hidden 11/Apr/82 2nd
Steve Bell ??/1982 2nd O/S
with Martin Corbett
Hidden 31/Dec/80 AltLd
Hidden 15/Apr/79 2nd
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 42
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set