Rockfax Description
After a hard start the most famous route in the Ford gives steady climbing up the impressive scoop-line. The first pitch has a distinct crux, and the second is sustained in a great position. Start below the long scoop-line.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb the scoop with difficulty then follow the ramp leftwards for 10m and belay where it is most comfortable.
2) 5b, 25m. Continue easily up the scoops, past a small bulge, to a horizontal break. Move up leftwards with increasing difficulty to eventually reach a corner on the left. Finish up this. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 13/Nov/1977.
Ticklists
100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , 101Pembroke Extremes , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Becky's ticklist , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Wales Trip - 2022 , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains. , Pembs Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tom Hill | 28 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Currently a rusty in-situ wire at the crux. Hard to tell how reliable it is at the moment but it seems like a fairly crucial piece. Possible to back up with a couple of okay-ish small cams. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Currently a rusty in-situ wire at the crux. Hard to tell how reliable it is at the moment but it seems like a fairly crucial piece. Possible to back up with a couple of okay-ish small cams. |
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| Fiend | 10 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: A fine old rambling mountaineering type adventure. Probably E2 as the interesting and fun scoopy crux is well protected and over fairly quickly. The top pitch still has a fair challenge, and in a good position. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: A fine old rambling mountaineering type adventure. Probably E2 as the interesting and fun scoopy crux is well protected and over fairly quickly. The top pitch still has a fair challenge, and in a good position. |
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| Furzy Sleight | 7 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Well hard start with crux at about 7m (small wires/cams). very good route though - scond pitch worth E1 5b and very atmospheric. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Well hard start with crux at about 7m (small wires/cams). very good route though - scond pitch worth E1 5b and very atmospheric. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stennis Ford
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Kitten Claws
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Carreg-y-Barcud Area)