Rockfax Description
This route looks okay until you abseil down it. It is only then that you realise how steep the wall is. Check the thread is at least 1m for an E6 tick - any shorter and it is E7. Start at a crunchy flake to the right of Mysteries. Climb the initial wall past flakes (very low thread) to the large break and huge thread runners. Take a deep breath and attack the wall above, moving right to a thin flake-line. Climb this in a position of increasing seriousness to hopefully gain another thread. Follow the easier flake to a break, then step right and climb direct to the top. Sport 7a+. © Rockfax
FA. M.Owen, R.Bennion, J.Hewson 18/Apr/1990.
Ticklists
100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , The Best of Pembroke , 101Pembroke Extremes , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Pembroke dreams , Extreme Rock II , Photos
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Peaklime_bagger | 10 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: Putting this here to provide some -much needed- context: Ghost Train was originally a Gary Gibson creation: he drilled it to add threads and a peg placement. Mike Owen made the FA without any artificially created gear (drilled threads/peg) and gave the route E7. However, since then most ascensionists have used the drilled thread at the top of the run-out, this way having been considered E6 for decades. The length of this insitu thread was greatly increased in 2012 and extended even further some years later. In 2024, it was reduced back down to its original, pre-2012, (E6) length. If you want a more mellow experience leave a long (4ft) quickdraw on the thread above the run-out as you abseil down. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Putting this here to provide some -much needed- context: Ghost Train was originally a Gary Gibson creation: he drilled it to add threads and a peg placement. Mike Owen made the FA without any artificially created gear (drilled threads/peg) and gave the route E7. However, since then most ascensionists have used the drilled thread at the top of the run-out, this way having been considered E6 for decades. The length of this insitu thread was greatly increased in 2012 and extended even further some years later. In 2024, it was reduced back down to its original, pre-2012, (E6) length. If you want a more mellow experience leave a long (4ft) quickdraw on the thread above the run-out as you abseil down. |
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| remus | 29 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Copying this here rather than updating the route description. Original comment from 2024: "I reduced the 4 and a half foot thread after the runout to about a foot the other day. I think if people want to extend it then that's up to them, but it shouldn't be that long permanently in case others don't want it. Crispin Waddy" | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Copying this here rather than updating the route description. Original comment from 2024: "I reduced the 4 and a half foot thread after the runout to about a foot the other day. I think if people want to extend it then that's up to them, but it shouldn't be that long permanently in case others don't want it. Crispin Waddy" |
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| Ed morris | 11 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: No longer a steady E6 now the thread has been shortened. The route got a true onsight a week later by Connor, "Jesus, you could get yourself killed quite easily here!" | ||
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Show beta
βeta: No longer a steady E6 now the thread has been shortened. The route got a true onsight a week later by Connor, "Jesus, you could get yourself killed quite easily here!" |
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| Emma Alsford | 31 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Fabulous climbing! Hats off to those who on sight it.. scary! | ||
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βeta: Fabulous climbing! Hats off to those who on sight it.. scary! |
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| Paddy Buchan | 29 May, 2022 |
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βeta: The side pull near the end of the run out might be worth an inspection, parts of it seemed to be flaking off whilst I was on the lead. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The side pull near the end of the run out might be worth an inspection, parts of it seemed to be flaking off whilst I was on the lead. |
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| UKC News | 29 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: 8 threads and a spicey runout. F7a+ climbing. E5? | ||
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Show beta
βeta: 8 threads and a spicey runout. F7a+ climbing. E5? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stennis Ford
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Dreaming Again
Grade: E6 6c ***
(The Cauldron)