42m.

Rockfax Description
This route looks okay until you abseil down it. It is only then that you realise how steep the wall is. Has been described as a F7a+ with one long and serious run-out. Start at a crunchy flake to the right of Mysteries. Climb the initial wall past flakes (very low thread) to the large break and huge thread runners. Take a deep breath and attack the wall above, moving right to a thin flakeline. Climb this in a position of increasing seriousness to hopefully gain another thread. Follow the easier flake to a break then step right and climb direct to the top. © Rockfax

FA. M.Owen 18/Apr/1990

Ticklists: 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, The Best of Pembroke.


ClimberDateStyle
maddy.c 05/Aug Lead O/S

Great route, exciting run out

Hidden 03/Aug TR
Cailean Harker 16/Jul Lead

What an incredible route! One of the best. I fell of trying to onsight this at the end of a very big day last year. Nice to get it done. Almost a shame how steady things feel when you know whats coming!

with Max Ayrton
soph 03/Jul 2nd rpt
with Nick Dubost
NDD 03/Jul Lead β
with Sophie W
w.pettet-smith 19/Apr 2nd

blimey. bottom suprisingly hard, run out steadyish as long as you don't get wrong handed. dont think i'll be coming back for this one! steady lead from ben

with ben
Hidden ??/2017 -
irish paul ?/Sep/16 Lead RP

First E6 - fell on first attempt as messed up feet after clipping tat. Great to get it out of the way and a fantastic bit of rock.

with Tash
Hidden 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 21/Aug/16 Lead dog

Undoubtedly the most disappointed I have been to fluff the onsight of a route in a long, long time. Climbed the run-out perfectly, but mis-read the sequence above. Climbed up/down a few times, got pretty pumped, then fell - quite literally - of the final fluffable move on the whole route. I will be back soon, or else the regret will consume me forever.

with Steve Long, Ed Booth
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 27/Jul/16 Lead rpt

So good to get this finished

Ed morris 12/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S
GPN 29/May/16 Lead β

Brilliant route and my first E6! Really enjoyed it :-) No specific beta but abbed down and had seen somebody on it earlier.

with Mikey G
Ricky Rocks 29/May/16 Lead β

Mega Line! Mega Experience!

Hidden 28/May/16 Lead O/S
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2016 -
Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 31/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant. The perfect run out then pumpy jugfest to the top.

nathanlee 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Perfect route with the climbing easing the more you commit. Great experience on this!

with Neil Mawson
soph 23/Aug/14 2nd rpt

Moves to peg on lower wall crux for me

with Blair Fyffe
Mike Goldthorp 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Breathtaking route! When you peep over the edge on the ab, so intimidating! Immaculate sequence all the way through the run-out, easing off just in time for it to not feel too deathly, perfecto!

with Jack G, Simon
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
redjerry 09/Jul/13 TR O/S

12a.

willoates 01/Jun/13 Lead dnf

took the mega-lob trying to clip the thread at the end of the run out, stopped 3m above the ground thanks to some world class belaying by Rudders.

with Dave Rudkin
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 04/May/13 Lead O/S

Amazing route ruined by climbing recklessly. Not good.

with Jemma Powell
colesy 04/May/13 Lead O/S

Mega!

with Ollie Benzie
quiffhanger 11/Aug/12 Lead β

Awesome. First e6! Felt steady (if a little too gripped). As it should given I abbed the line, replaced the threads and got beta on the moves from Jacob's on-sight & Tom's second. The dangerous moves are easy, as long as you're not pumped from the trickier lower section! Get on it while it's dry & the threads are good!

with Jacob
jacobjacob 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Ross abbed and replaced the threads. Then I lead it with no knowledge of the moves but quickdraws on the threads. Great climbing, about f7a, steady.

tom106 11/Aug/12 TR

need to man up (get fitter....). 1st time trying a head point, thought i might as well as the others were on it - seems odd.

switch 26/May/12 Lead dog

onsight attempt, fell just after clipping the thread above the run out. E6 6a felt fair. I think a ground-fall is a possibility if you fluff the clip, which is another tiring reach.

owenH ??/2011 -
soph ?/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Dan McManus
Ged Desforges ??/2010 Lead β

With a 10mm rope, screwgates on the threads, and a good belayer, this isn't too outrageous. Certainly not E7. Amazing climb on posiitve holds. Threads replaced may 2010.

nicolat ??/2008 2nd
Steve Crowe 26/Aug/06 Lead β

Wow, so pleased, what a great runout! E7 in my guidebook. Looked at it on the abseil but didnt try any moves.

with Ian Denton
Mike Owen 18/Apr/90 Lead RP

Gary Gibson had done it previously (apparently with some drilled in situ gear which was removed by somebody from Bristol, perhaps Steve Monks). I happened to be there, top roped it and led it. Thought I had 2 belayers at the time, but the photos show otherwise....

with Roger Bennion, Jim Hewson
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Voting
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 15
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set