42m.

Rockfax Description
This route looks okay until you abseil down it. It is only then that you realise how steep the wall is. Has been described as a F7a+ with one long and serious run-out. Start at a crunchy flake to the right of Mysteries. Climb the initial wall past flakes (very low thread) to the large break and huge thread runners. Take a deep breath and attack the wall above, moving right to a thin flakeline. Climb this in a position of increasing seriousness to hopefully gain another thread. Follow the easier flake to a break then step right and climb direct to the top. © Rockfax

FA. M.Owen 18/Apr/1990

Ticklists

100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, The Best of Pembroke, 101Pembroke Extremes, Stanners lifetime Onsight list (because what else is there to do?)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
UKC News 29 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 8 threads and a spicey runout. F7a+ climbing. E5?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 8 threads and a spicey runout. F7a+ climbing. E5?
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Kris suriyo 8 Jun Lead β Amazing route
Amazing route
Cassidy 10 May Lead β Abseiled to check slings so has some ideas and UKC beta
with Rob Sutton
Abseiled to check slings so has some ideas and UKC beta
with Rob Sutton
M_Robinson 4 May 2nd O/S
with Adam24B
with Adam24B
Adam24B 4 May Lead O/S Glad to get on this in perfect conditions, got a knee bar before the runout and then worked my way through it without thinking too much. A clip up with a pulse raising middle section
Glad to get on this in perfect conditions, got a knee bar before the runout and then worked my way through it without thinking too much. A clip up with a pulse raising middle section
Richard Kendrick 21 Apr Lead RP Had a real good look on the abb, chalked and practiced the run out moves. Incredible climbing, first E6
Had a real good look on the abb, chalked and practiced the run out moves. Incredible climbing, first E6
Ramon Marin 21 Apr 2nd O/S
markalmack 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Climbed terribly. I think the 2m long thread after the runout knocks a grade off...
with Tony Stone
Climbed terribly. I think the 2m long thread after the runout knocks a grade off...
with Tony Stone
Robb Bert 23 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
with Dave Toon
with Dave Toon
datoon 22 Aug, 2018 Lead Took a massive fall just below the thread, after my foot slipped. Pretty annoyed as I felt fine...
Took a massive fall just below the thread, after my foot slipped. Pretty annoyed as I felt fine...
Ed Booth 23 Jun, 2018 Lead β Flonsight. Knew all the stuff about it that everyone knows, which is enough to make it easier to step off the ground. I got Ad to replace one of the threads for me. Great route. Thought the runnout bit was alright. The move after you have clipped the thread at end of runnout is a hard move. Nice top half. Steep but good holds. Bottom wall a bit poky and not brilliant rock.
Flonsight. Knew all the stuff about it that everyone knows, which is enough to make it easier to step off the ground. I got Ad to replace one of the threads for me. Great route. Thought the runnout bit was alright. The move after you have clipped the thread at end of runnout is a hard move. Nice top half. Steep but good holds. Bottom wall a bit poky and not brilliant rock.
Adam Booth 23 Jun, 2018 2nd dog Congrats Ed on a great lead! Awesome stuff. Bit too hard for me today, struggled with the crux move just after the run out.
Congrats Ed on a great lead! Awesome stuff. Bit too hard for me today, struggled with the crux move just after the run out.
Longsufferingropeholder 21 Apr, 2018 TR dog Had to get out somehow. Give me a call when (if ever) it's dry
Had to get out somehow. Give me a call when (if ever) it's dry
maddy.c 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Great route, exciting run out
Great route, exciting run out
Hidden 3 Aug, 2017 TR
Cailean Harker 16 Jul, 2017 Lead What an incredible route! One of the best. I fell of trying to onsight this at the end of a very big day last year. Nice to get it done. Almost a shame how steady things feel when you know whats coming!
with Max Ayrton
What an incredible route! One of the best. I fell of trying to onsight this at the end of a very big day last year. Nice to get it done. Almost a shame how steady things feel when you know whats coming!
with Max Ayrton
soph 3 Jul, 2017 2nd rpt
with Nick Dubost
with Nick Dubost
NDD 3 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with Sophie W
with Sophie W
w.pettet-smith 19 Apr, 2017 2nd blimey. bottom suprisingly hard, run out steadyish as long as you don't get wrong handed. dont think i'll be coming back for this one! steady lead from ben
with ben
blimey. bottom suprisingly hard, run out steadyish as long as you don't get wrong handed. dont think i'll be coming back for this one! steady lead from ben
with ben
Hidden ??, 2017 -
irish paul ?Sep, 2016 Lead RP First E6 - fell on first attempt as messed up feet after clipping tat. Great to get it out of the way and a fantastic bit of rock.
with Tash
First E6 - fell on first attempt as messed up feet after clipping tat. Great to get it out of the way and a fantastic bit of rock.
with Tash
Hidden 28 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 21 Aug, 2016 Lead dog Undoubtedly the most disappointed I have been to fluff the onsight of a route in a long, long time. Climbed the run-out perfectly, but mis-read the sequence above. Climbed up/down a few times, got pretty pumped, then fell - quite literally - of the final fluffable move on the whole route. I will be back soon, or else the regret will consume me forever.
with Steve Long, Ed Booth
Undoubtedly the most disappointed I have been to fluff the onsight of a route in a long, long time. Climbed the run-out perfectly, but mis-read the sequence above. Climbed up/down a few times, got pretty pumped, then fell - quite literally - of the final fluffable move on the whole route. I will be back soon, or else the regret will consume me forever.
with Steve Long, Ed Booth
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 27 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt So good to get this finished
So good to get this finished
Ed morris 12 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 8 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
GPN 29 May, 2016 Lead β Brilliant route and my first E6! Really enjoyed it :-) No specific beta but abbed down and had seen somebody on it earlier.
with Mikey G
Brilliant route and my first E6! Really enjoyed it :-) No specific beta but abbed down and had seen somebody on it earlier.
with Mikey G
Ricky Rocks 29 May, 2016 Lead β Mega Line! Mega Experience!
Mega Line! Mega Experience!
chris m fisher 28 May, 2016 Lead O/S Awesome route!
with Dan Parkes
Awesome route!
with Dan Parkes
Jack Geldard ??, 2016 -
Hidden 1 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 31 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Brilliant. The perfect run out then pumpy jugfest to the top.
Brilliant. The perfect run out then pumpy jugfest to the top.
nathanlee 12 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Perfect route with the climbing easing the more you commit. Great experience on this!
with Neil Mawson
Perfect route with the climbing easing the more you commit. Great experience on this!
with Neil Mawson
soph 23 Aug, 2014 2nd rpt Moves to peg on lower wall crux for me
with Blair Fyffe
Moves to peg on lower wall crux for me
with Blair Fyffe
pipof747 ?Aug, 2014 Lead RP headpoint
headpoint
Mike Goldthorp 18 May, 2014 Lead O/S Breathtaking route! When you peep over the edge on the ab, so intimidating! Immaculate sequence all the way through the run-out, easing off just in time for it to not feel too deathly, perfecto!
with Jack G, brices
Breathtaking route! When you peep over the edge on the ab, so intimidating! Immaculate sequence all the way through the run-out, easing off just in time for it to not feel too deathly, perfecto!
with Jack G, brices
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
redjerry 9 Jul, 2013 TR O/S 12a.
12a.
willoates 1 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf took the mega-lob trying to clip the thread at the end of the run out, stopped 3m above the ground thanks to some world class belaying by Rudders.
with Dave Rudkin
took the mega-lob trying to clip the thread at the end of the run out, stopped 3m above the ground thanks to some world class belaying by Rudders.
with Dave Rudkin
Hidden 1 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 4 May, 2013 Lead O/S Amazing route ruined by climbing recklessly. Not good.
with Jemma Powell
Amazing route ruined by climbing recklessly. Not good.
with Jemma Powell
colesy 4 May, 2013 Lead O/S Mega!
with Ollie Benzie
Mega!
with Ollie Benzie
quiffhanger 11 Aug, 2012 Lead β Awesome. First e6! Felt steady (if a little too gripped). As it should given I abbed the line, replaced the threads and got beta on the moves from Jacob's on-sight & Tom's second. The dangerous moves are easy, as long as you're not pumped from the trickier lower section! Get on it while it's dry & the threads are good!
Awesome. First e6! Felt steady (if a little too gripped). As it should given I abbed the line, replaced the threads and got beta on the moves from Jacob's on-sight & Tom's second. The dangerous moves are easy, as long as you're not pumped from the trickier lower section! Get on it while it's dry & the threads are good!
jacobjacob 11 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Ross abbed and replaced the threads. Then I lead it with no knowledge of the moves but quickdraws on the threads. Great climbing, about f7a, steady.
Ross abbed and replaced the threads. Then I lead it with no knowledge of the moves but quickdraws on the threads. Great climbing, about f7a, steady.
tom106 11 Aug, 2012 TR need to man up (get fitter....). 1st time trying a head point, thought i might as well as the others were on it - seems odd.
need to man up (get fitter....). 1st time trying a head point, thought i might as well as the others were on it - seems odd.
Si Witcher 26 May, 2012 Lead dog onsight attempt, fell just after clipping the thread above the run out. E6 6a felt fair. I think a ground-fall is a possibility if you fluff the clip, which is another tiring reach.
onsight attempt, fell just after clipping the thread above the run out. E6 6a felt fair. I think a ground-fall is a possibility if you fluff the clip, which is another tiring reach.
owenH ??, 2011 -
soph ?Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
with Dan McManus
with Dan McManus
Ged Desforges ??, 2010 Lead β With a 10mm rope, screwgates on the threads, and a good belayer, this isn't too outrageous. Certainly not E7. Amazing climb on posiitve holds. Threads replaced may 2010.
With a 10mm rope, screwgates on the threads, and a good belayer, this isn't too outrageous. Certainly not E7. Amazing climb on posiitve holds. Threads replaced may 2010.
nicolat ??, 2008 2nd
Steve Crowe 26 Aug, 2006 Lead β Wow, so pleased, what a great runout! E7 in my guidebook. Looked at it on the abseil but didnt try any moves.
with Ian Denton
Wow, so pleased, what a great runout! E7 in my guidebook. Looked at it on the abseil but didnt try any moves.
with Ian Denton
Mike Owen 18 Apr, 1990 Lead RP Placed all gear on lead, no in-situ threads. Gary Gibson had done it previously (apparently with some drilled in-situ gear which was removed by somebody from Bristol, perhaps Steve Monks). I happened to be there, top roped it and led it. Thought I had 2 belayers at the time, but the photos show otherwise....
with Roger Bennion, Jim Hewson
Placed all gear on lead, no in-situ threads. Gary Gibson had done it previously (apparently with some drilled in-situ gear which was removed by somebody from Bristol, perhaps Steve Monks). I happened to be there, top roped it and led it. Thought I had 2 belayers at the time, but the photos show otherwise....
with Roger Bennion, Jim Hewson
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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 18
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set