92m, 4 pitches.
A reasonable partner to Pine Tree Buttress if one ignores the disjointed first pitch; it has a testing crux and some nicely exposed climbing on the slabs above.
1. 23m Climb Pitch 1 of Pine Tree Buttress and from its belay continue up a short wide crack on the right to a grassy ledge. Gain a higher vegetated ledge by delicate moves near the left side of a slab.
2. 15m Climb the steep slab above via a thin crack to the large overlap before traversing left to a good ledge and a flake belay which is shared with Pine Tree Buttress.
3. 25m Follow the left edge of the slab to an overlap which is by-passed on the left to gain a narrow slab. This leads to a shallow groove which is followed with increasing difficulty to a recess on grassy ledges.
4. 29m Climb the recess corner for 3m and step right onto slab. Move up 5m on good holds keeping right of vegetation. Make a rising traverse left to bypass overlaps and horizontal cracks above. Finish up slab to Conifer Terrace. Belay well back at boulders beside pine tree. The original finish took pitch 5 of Pine Tree Buttress.
1. 23m Climb Pitch 1 of Pine Tree Buttress and from its belay continue up a short wide crack on the right to a grassy ledge. Gain a higher vegetated ledge by delicate moves near the left side of a slab.
2. 15m Climb the steep slab above via a thin crack to the large overlap before traversing left to a good ledge and a flake belay which is shared with Pine Tree Buttress.
3. 25m Follow the left edge of the slab to an overlap which is by-passed on the left to gain a narrow slab. This leads to a shallow groove which is followed with increasing difficulty to a recess on grassy ledges.
4. 29m Climb the recess corner for 3m and step right onto slab. Move up 5m on good holds keeping right of vegetation. Make a rising traverse left to bypass overlaps and horizontal cracks above. Finish up slab to Conifer Terrace. Belay well back at boulders beside pine tree. The original finish took pitch 5 of Pine Tree Buttress.
D. ? Murch?, J. Butler, L. Wootton 16/Apr/1972.
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Route of Interest
Quartz Gully
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Glendalough (Ireland))