Rockfax Description
The best route on the wall with lots of fine climbing on good rock. Climb to a low peg and move directly up to a thin crack system. Excellent technical climbing up this gains a break. Follow the wall above, past a peg, to the broken band of rock. Head directly up this to below a white-stained crack and then step right to below another crack. Step up to reach the crack and the top. © Rockfax

FA. Doug Kerr, P.Stacey 1.6.87 01/Jun/1987

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Fragmod 28/Aug/17 Lead
Hidden 25/Jul/17 Lead dog
Andy Peak 1 18/Feb/17 Lead O/S

Nice climbing with a rubel leaves at the top

with Theo
Frank the Husky ??/2017 -
georgenvk 15/Oct/16 Lead dog
with cem
cem 15/Oct/16 Lead rpt

My trad fix for the weekend. Well worth repeating but not worth its Rockfax Top 50 status.

Somerset swede basher 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Andy Nicholson
Andy Nicholson 08/Oct/16 2nd O/S
damob123 06/Sep/16 2nd
Martin Haworth 12/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 12/Aug/16 Lead O/S

My first E2 lead this season. Really nice route. One stiff move half way up.

philhilo 29/Jul/16 Lead dog

Shame - placing wire on crux pulled it and barn doored off, lol! Good route.

crossleysm 08/Jul/16 Lead O/S
ned_85 06/Sep/15 Lead
Gabe Oliver 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Not sure I would class the rock as "good" throughout the route. Nice moves through the crack and bulge at half height but the rest was spoilt by the loose rock on every horizontal break. Steady at the grade despite the height

ptrickey ??/2015 Lead O/S

Ably belayed by the first ascensionist DK.

MarkRoe 31/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Smithy
benw681 27/Oct/14 Lead O/S
james.slater 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Much much better than black wall, and not a lot harder, brilliant climbing

Andrew171 24/Aug/14 TR O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/13 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Aug/13 TR O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/13 TR O/S
Misha 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Had been wanting to get on the Black Wall for a while. A good route, though dirty in places to remind you where you are! Tricky but well protected 5c crux, much of the rest is 5b but always in balance so not pumpy. Deserves 2 starts but not 3.

with Ed, Mark
eduardo 10/Aug/13 2nd
with Misha
jon_gill1 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S

great route but nearly went off route at top where its loose and flakey.crux felt very hard for the grade!

with ross garfoot
Tala A 06/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 29/Sep/12 2nd
Mr Sparkle 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Some worthwhile moves in the middle. Obvious direct top out is loose and dusty. Best sticking to original line in the guide book for the finish. Rather generously given 3 star in the RF guide.

Bulls Crack 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Some good climbing but one star at most

with SP
Marti999 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jan/12 2nd
pauldrew 23/Oct/11 2nd
thetradlad 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Would have enjoyed a lot more had I not been massively hungover

Hidden 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Maria Bechaalani ?/Aug/11 TR
with dylan burgess
kingholmesy ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Andy S
liam 22 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S
sadams 24/Jul/10 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
Sam W 03/Jul/10 Lead


Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
barni 12/Nov/09 2nd O/S
pauldrew 17/Oct/09 Lead
cem 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Mark O'Neill
tmawer 29/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with chris king
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead
spidey 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
jimbonfire 30/Aug/09 2nd O/S

The best line in the quarry, balance is key!!

metal arms ?/Aug/09 Lead dog
Abi Chard 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S

First E2 lead!

with Ian
Hidden 18/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
feilx 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Ally Smith ??/2009 -
fennerz 23/Dec/08 Lead RP
abrom 23/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Tom Fenwick
smallerrich 22/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Harder than black wall direct, probably better.

Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead
Hidden 24/Oct/08 Lead
willson 24/Oct/08 2nd
SaraKaikk 16/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 16/Sep/08 Lead O/S
anguskille 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S

pretty hard crux actually, harder than black wall direct

Coel Hellier 24/Aug/08 Lead
Dale ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S

excelent, only 5c section threw the crack past the thread on black wall rest sustained 5b.

with dave
Ed Booth 24/Feb/08 Lead O/S

It started raining half way up and things got a little bit spicy . . . the top out was a little interseting!

Chubbard 18/Jul/07 2nd
with C Godfrey
Hidden 18/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/07 Lead
Dave Rumney 24/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Sean Roberts
Hidden 16/Sep/06 Lead
a_radiohead_fan ?/Sep/06 -
Macca_7 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S

What a set of moves pleased after failing on humpty again!

John Marsland 01/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Allen Newby
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Hugh
Hidden 27/Jan/06 Lead O/S
MikeYouCanClimb 10/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Rod
lost.arrow 15/Jul/03 -
lost.arrow 17/Jun/03 -
Nigel Coe 21/Nov/98 2nd
with Martin Crocker
Hidden ?/Sep/98 Lead O/S
plain kitten ??/1998 Lead
pete johnson 13/Aug/96 -
with Hughie
Roget 12/Feb/94 Lead O/S
with jon
Nick Biven 17/Jan/92 Lead O/S
with Rich Whitwell
Hidden ??/1992 -
Hidden 15/Apr/89 Lead
Gary Gibson ??/1989 Lead

I think we may have done this in 1976 but aren't completely sure.

with Phil Gibson
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High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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