Rockfax Description
A fine climb of contrasts on immaculate rock. It is advisable to finish up the last 8m of Black Bastard since the upper wall is dirty in the breaks. Very possibly a 6c move for the short. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The bolt is not in situ making this wall all traditional. For those under 5"11 who are unable to reach the good hold from the obvious crozzly footholds above the break this route is worth E5.

FA. Doug Kerr 8.8.87 08/Aug/1987

Ticklists: Ultimate E4 ticklist.

anguskille 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Years after seeing the bolt chopped I've gone back for the onsight. Not easy! I think you need to be 6ft or so to reach through the crux. After a lot of time going up and down on the little crimps I found a static 6c(ish) sequence with a super-high left foot and tiny left crimp. I think the bolt-less ascent might be worth E5 6c for the short, or hard 6b.

with Paul Francis
benw681 27/Oct/14 TR
Andrew171 24/Aug/14 TR O/S
Ed Booth 19/Jan/14 Lead rpt

wet top half. kept raining for the crux. Finally committed with a lunge after a couple fo ups and down. I was 1 inch from the hold reaching static. Think for 5'10 and under this is worth E5 without the bolt.

barni 12/Nov/09 Lead dnf

desprate moves with what fell a long fall. lost the psyche after taking a fall off the crux twice

fennerz 22/Dec/08 Lead rpt

finally chopped the bolt! we now have a pure black wall. Probably about E5 6b without the bolt, felt a bit skechy this thime around, sure i was going to fall!

with Ed, Angus, Anna, Sean, Rich
smallerrich 22/Dec/08 Lead β

Maybe the first boltless flash??? Although a fall without el bolto would be much scarier/much further, I'm fairly sure it'd be safe (if you didn't get the rope behind the legs). Because of this I think Fennerz chopping the bolt has made a better route. Definitely harder for the shorter, as it involves the 'desperate moves' whereas the tall can reach through. Even being 5'11 I had to dyno the crux, which made for some sick tension and almost a bloody scary fall. As for a new grade I reckon low E5, top end E4 (6b - even 6c for the short). Now a top class trad route on a top class trad wall.

with Fennerz and Boothy
Hidden 26/Nov/08 2nd
fennerz 27/Aug/08 Lead β

I'm with Ed on this one lets chop the feckin' bolt and have a trad purist heaven!

with Angus and Ed
Ed Booth 26/Jul/08 Lead

Was actually trying to make the first boltless ascent but it went a bit wrong and i ended up clipping the bolt moments before falling off. Did the move and finsihed to the top. The trad challenge still remains . . .

nige 06/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
Hidden 30/Jul/07 Lead dnf
Ed Booth 25/Jul/07 Lead

Found the move hard, pulled the bolt and bailed back into Direct, was suing a duff sequence, will go bavck though and do it in a oneer! Good effort Tim on siting it on toppy.

Hidden 25/Jul/07 2nd O/S
pete johnson 06/Aug/05 Lead dog
with Lun
Nigel Coe 21/Nov/98 2nd
with Martin Crocker
Roget 14/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Gary Gibson ?/Apr/89 Lead

Did it in 2008 without the bolt. It's a much bett r route with the bolt in, far more consistent. But that's life. Pity the first boltless ascent still had the bolt in.

with Hazel
3 users have this on their wishlist
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 7
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Flashed (β)
Not Set