25m.

Rockfax Description
An impressive wall-climb that is endowed with good holds. Start below the upper end of a low, left-trending crack in the centre of the wall.
Climb steeply through the lower bulge via a horizontal crack at 3m to better holds on the wall above. Continue to a left-trending crack and take the wall above it rightwards to a peg. Trend left up the easier wall to the large break of The Smile and finish up the thin finger-cracks above (as for The Smile). © Rockfax

FA. Clarke Alston 23.8.87 23/Aug/1987

Ticklists

West Country Climbs

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 14 Sep TR rpt
K Mckay 7 Sep Lead O/S
with joe.91
with joe.91
joe.91 7 Sep 2nd O/S Really good! Well protected never seen Katie place so much gear!
with K Mckay
Really good! Well protected never seen Katie place so much gear!
with K Mckay
Matt77 3 Aug Lead O/S
with Tom Riddelsdell
with Tom Riddelsdell
Lenny 24 Jul 2nd rpt
mshorter 24 Jul Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 14 Jul Lead rpt
samparsons 7 Jul Lead O/S
afterthesend 7 Jul 2nd β
simonhammond1966 3 Jul TR
bigrob 5 Jun TR
with si hammond
with si hammond
simonhammond1966 1 Jun Lead Probably still not leaving the beach from the right place but by the first break I'm on course.
with Paul Hurrell
Probably still not leaving the beach from the right place but by the first break I'm on course.
with Paul Hurrell
simonhammond1966 31 May Lead
with Sean Wilcock, Joel Perkin
with Sean Wilcock, Joel Perkin
Lee_Meaden 25 May Lead O/S Tough powerful start. Climbed to break and placed good cam then reversed back down to the ground. Steady nice climbing after the start
with JackMac
Tough powerful start. Climbed to break and placed good cam then reversed back down to the ground. Steady nice climbing after the start
with JackMac
JackMac 25 May 2nd β
Hidden 18 May Lead dnf
bigrob 14 May 2nd rpt
with si hammond
with si hammond
bigrob 14 May 2nd
with si hammond
with si hammond
simonhammond1966 14 May Lead great holds and great gear.
with Rob Byrom
great holds and great gear.
with Rob Byrom
simonhammond1966 14 May Lead rpt
with Rob Byrom
with Rob Byrom
simonhammond1966 1 May TR
with Rob Byrom
with Rob Byrom
Martin Cooper 20 Apr TR Start felt v awkward and bold
with Ellis
Start felt v awkward and bold
with Ellis
dabbott345 7 Apr 2nd O/S
Davros the Psyched 7 Apr Lead O/S
with Mark
with Mark
Dexter JW 7 Apr Lead RP
with Dan
with Dan
Cbulman 24 Mar 2nd β
Joel Perkin ?? -
Wil Treasure 30 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Great climbing.
with Lorne
Great climbing.
with Lorne
Dizz 29 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with pete finclaire
with pete finclaire
bruce 28 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
with Tony
with Tony
rachelpearce01 24 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
George_Surf 24 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S First route, found it hard! The start is pretty nails and once you go you can’t really turn back. It’s quite a way up, then the holds get good and gear arrives, but you’ve got to hold it together. Nice climbing to the peg then easy to the break. Found the final crack pretty pumpy! It’s safe up there but there’s a few moves you can’t wait around on. The rock is amazing
First route, found it hard! The start is pretty nails and once you go you can’t really turn back. It’s quite a way up, then the holds get good and gear arrives, but you’ve got to hold it together. Nice climbing to the peg then easy to the break. Found the final crack pretty pumpy! It’s safe up there but there’s a few moves you can’t wait around on. The rock is amazing
Jake Young 31 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
jacobjohncharles 15 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
felixwilkins 15 Aug, 2018 2nd
tim whitaker 2 Aug, 2018 Lead Hot and sweaty in the afternoon sun....
with Liz Whitaker
Hot and sweaty in the afternoon sun....
with Liz Whitaker
nickmoulden 31 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with zoe bidula
with zoe bidula
Hidden 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Jess Carr 18 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Rich Pollard
with Rich Pollard
Hidden 15 May, 2018 Lead O/S
janegallwey 15 May, 2018 2nd Thought start was hard/powerful
Thought start was hard/powerful
DanC1985 14 May, 2018 TR
with Sarah
with Sarah
Euan Todd 6 May, 2018 Lead RP Lovely route, if a little unbalanced. Never fell off the start move at least! Was able to place the first cam, then campus from there to get established. First go the previous day, I fell from the crux section of The Smile, so gutting! Topped out as Hugh was away to get soggy feet. Went quite straightforward the next day (so 2nd go?), was able to climb quickly and rest adequately. Such, a quality bit of rock, solid E2 5b **.
Lovely route, if a little unbalanced. Never fell off the start move at least! Was able to place the first cam, then campus from there to get established. First go the previous day, I fell from the crux section of The Smile, so gutting! Topped out as Hugh was away to get soggy feet. Went quite straightforward the next day (so 2nd go?), was able to climb quickly and rest adequately. Such, a quality bit of rock, solid E2 5b **.
RedEd 5 May, 2018 2nd O/S
with Stu Bradshaw
with Stu Bradshaw
Hugh Simons 5 May, 2018 2nd O/S Pretty hard start moves, eases after but sustained! Another good route.
Pretty hard start moves, eases after but sustained! Another good route.
Dexter JW 25 Mar, 2018 2nd O/S
with dbrooks
with dbrooks
dbrooks 25 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S
with Dexter
with Dexter
debsb 20 Feb, 2018 2nd
with Glenda Huxter
with Glenda Huxter
tjmillen ??, 2018 Lead
with Jenny
with Jenny
DredStripe 19 Dec, 2017 Lead G/U Had to have a few goes at the damp start, :)
Had to have a few goes at the damp start, :)
alice fuller 23 Sep, 2017 Lead RP 2nd 2011. Lead via hard start ...1st bits of gear preplaced
2nd 2011. Lead via hard start ...1st bits of gear preplaced
shaunhumphreys 1 Sep, 2017 Lead rpt
harry_lewis 31 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
Rory Bascombe 26 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Tim
with Tim
Lenny 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S With diamond smiles finish.
with Tom
With diamond smiles finish.
with Tom
Dale Comley 6 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Charlie Low 6 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
HeatherF 13 May, 2017 Lead O/S
nathanlee 13 May, 2017 2nd O/S To escape the sea!
To escape the sea!
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead O/S
Jus 3 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
Marti999 23 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt
with Vic
with Vic
Ed morris 22 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with Jon Stewart
with Jon Stewart
JackM92 14 Jul, 2016 Lead dog Found the start very strenous and rested on a cam. Remainder technically really simple, but sustained.
with Australian Dave
Found the start very strenous and rested on a cam. Remainder technically really simple, but sustained.
with Australian Dave
beni ??, 2016 2nd
climbhannahclimb 16 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
Jackislav ?Oct, 2015 Lead O/S Fantastic from start to finish, very loose block that looks like a nice jug about the size of a car battery, seems fine to stand on and pull down on. Would be a poo pants moment if you chose to lay-back on it though!
Fantastic from start to finish, very loose block that looks like a nice jug about the size of a car battery, seems fine to stand on and pull down on. Would be a poo pants moment if you chose to lay-back on it though!
redjerry 2 Sep, 2015 TR O/S
with Robert Duran
with Robert Duran
Ed Booth 21 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S good as always on this crag
good as always on this crag
Adam Booth 21 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Following a pretty rubbish description, so no idea if I was on the right route! Whatever it was, amazing climbing (typical sharpnose) but I think harder than 5b, especially the start (which was bold too).
Following a pretty rubbish description, so no idea if I was on the right route! Whatever it was, amazing climbing (typical sharpnose) but I think harder than 5b, especially the start (which was bold too).
Tom Seccombe 18 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Harvey
with Harvey
papashango 17 Jul, 2015 2nd β
pete johnson 16 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
robgixer 16 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
benkelsey 10 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S Warm down to escape tide, pleasant.
Warm down to escape tide, pleasant.
shaunhumphreys 10 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Another sick route at sharpnose!
Another sick route at sharpnose!
Hidden 6 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
phil64 28 May, 2015 2nd O/S great lead by Ali as the tide raced in , exciting hanging belay above the sea
with Ali Taylor
great lead by Ali as the tide raced in , exciting hanging belay above the sea
with Ali Taylor
Spearos 25 May, 2015 Lead dog
with Riggo
with Riggo
Hidden 9 May, 2015 Lead O/S
red_rhodesha 9 May, 2015 2nd
with ollie_e
with ollie_e
jgordon75 14 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tim Jepson
with Tim Jepson
Andy Moles 9 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with James Oswald
with James Oswald
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
winter hill1 25 Nov, 2014 2nd
Hidden 24 Nov, 2014 Lead
burto 14 Sep, 2014 2nd
with ferdia
with ferdia
ferdia 14 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with burto
with burto
richiebongo 3 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Mat Coburn
with Mat Coburn
1poundSOCKS 3 Aug, 2014 2nd β The crux is the start, and there are a few sustained sections, but plenty of rests. Well protected throughout, and a lovely rusty peg for historical interest.
The crux is the start, and there are a few sustained sections, but plenty of rests. Well protected throughout, and a lovely rusty peg for historical interest.
EmilyElouise 24 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 23 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Mr Tickle 1 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Great climb, with a tough start
Great climb, with a tough start
Sarah Black 1 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2014 2nd dnf
markalmack 31 May, 2014 Lead O/S
with james marjot
with james marjot
Hidden 31 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Popkids 4 May, 2014 2nd O/S
with Kafoozalem
with Kafoozalem
mike mo ??, 2014 -
kingholmesy ??, 2014 Lead O/S
with Colin
with Colin
Neil McA 7 Oct, 2013 2nd rpt
with James Turnbull
with James Turnbull
The old James turnbull 7 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
with neil mcadie
with neil mcadie
Hidden 6 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Oct, 2013 2nd O/S
Justin T 6 Oct, 2013 2nd
Russell Blackaller 6 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S Not a bad line. Start was still a bit wet. I thought the hardest move was coming out of 'The Smile' break and into the crack system, which gets 5a...
Not a bad line. Start was still a bit wet. I thought the hardest move was coming out of 'The Smile' break and into the crack system, which gets 5a...
Ed Babs 20 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
with AlexD
with AlexD
AlexD 20 Sep, 2013 2nd
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Hidden 24 Aug, 2013 2nd
Hidden 6 Aug, 2013 Lead
mike lawrence? 27 Jun, 2013 Lead Start much harder than the rest which has fab holds, finished in the rain but rock still bone dry. Really nice climb.
Start much harder than the rest which has fab holds, finished in the rain but rock still bone dry. Really nice climb.
Hidden 25 May, 2013 2nd O/S
Dave Rumney 25 May, 2013 Lead very good
with Tanya Milner
very good
with Tanya Milner
Graham Westbrook 24 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 30 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
jgordon75 30 Aug, 2012 2nd
bigrob 21 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
with Mike W
with Mike W
richsmithinbristol 12 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Graham Atkins 12 May, 2012 Lead
Jim Brooke 12 May, 2012 2nd O/S
Pippa 12 May, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 6 May, 2012 Lead
Martin Cooper 12 Apr, 2012 2nd
with Jacob McAdie, Neil
with Jacob McAdie, Neil
Neil McA 11 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with martin cooper, Jake McAdie
with martin cooper, Jake McAdie
Brian H 7 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Paul Newman
with Paul Newman
ellis 6 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 6 Apr, 2012 Lead
with ellis
with ellis
Marti999 27 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Mar, 2012 TR
tim exley 15 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S pumped out my brain, good rest in the middle. lot of rope drag wit single rope
pumped out my brain, good rest in the middle. lot of rope drag wit single rope
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 17 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Oct, 2011 2nd
Sut 1 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
steveb2006 28 Sep, 2011 Lead A warm ascent to escape the incoming tide. Val has to do the bulging start twice as she has left her helmet on the boulders
A warm ascent to escape the incoming tide. Val has to do the bulging start twice as she has left her helmet on the boulders
CRiddiford 30 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S tough start if you prefer footholds to campusing!
with mark20
tough start if you prefer footholds to campusing!
with mark20
Hidden 30 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
mark20 30 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S Better than Last Laugh
Better than Last Laugh
Fran S8 8 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
steveb2006 4 Aug, 2011 2nd Heavy rain shower when he is half way up. Feel like the name but luckily the rock doesnt get too wet and we both get up.
with David Andrew
Heavy rain shower when he is half way up. Feel like the name but luckily the rock doesnt get too wet and we both get up.
with David Andrew
goshawk 2 Aug, 2011 Lead
with Steve Burns
with Steve Burns
climbergg 31 Jul, 2011 2nd
with Tim M
with Tim M
Tim M 31 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Very damp start. One of those nice fluted holds snapped off (maybe more fragile when wet?) but managed to stay on.
Very damp start. One of those nice fluted holds snapped off (maybe more fragile when wet?) but managed to stay on.
dannyboy83 30 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Dad
with Dad
chris j 3 Jul, 2011 2nd rpt
with Ben Bradford
with Ben Bradford
tskelhon 4 Jun, 2011 Lead β Good route after Jon Sh@t me up nearly decking!
Good route after Jon Sh@t me up nearly decking!
Jon_Warner 4 Jun, 2011 2nd RP After bailing on the lead. Unbalanced route with a hard (esp. if greasy) start.
with Tom
After bailing on the lead. Unbalanced route with a hard (esp. if greasy) start.
with Tom
jameshiggins 25 May, 2011 2nd O/S Cold!
with Neil Adams
Cold!
with Neil Adams
Neil Adams 25 May, 2011 Lead O/S Nice climbing but absolutely baltic in the wind!
Nice climbing but absolutely baltic in the wind!
Hidden 24 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Alasdair Fulton 24 May, 2011 2nd
davesykes 30 Apr, 2011 Lead found the smile bit the hardest - climbed with emmy and rich
with emmy
found the smile bit the hardest - climbed with emmy and rich
with emmy
liamoloughlin 24 Apr, 2011 2nd
Hidden 26 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 3 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
with nick
with nick
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
tobydunford 7 Nov, 2010 2nd O/S
feilx 28 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
chris j 15 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Ben Bradford
with Ben Bradford
Chris_barr 5 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
with Mike
with Mike
Hidden 30 May, 2009 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Sam Underhill
with Sam Underhill
andysroom ?Aug, 2007 2nd dog
Hidden 7 Jul, 2007 2nd
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Mark Kemball 21 Dec, 2006 Lead rpt
with Lee Bartrop
with Lee Bartrop
chris j 12 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
with Ben Bradford
with Ben Bradford
Dave-Westlake ??, 2006 -
Mark Kemball 6 Oct, 2004 Lead
with Lee Bartrop
with Lee Bartrop
Hidden 11 Apr, 1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Aug, 1987 Lead β
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 44
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set