Rockfax Description
An impressive wall-climb that is endowed with good holds. Start below the upper end of a low, left-trending crack in the centre of the wall.
Climb steeply through the lower bulge via a horizontal crack at 3m to better holds on the wall above. Continue to a left-trending crack and take the wall above it rightwards to a peg. Trend left up the easier wall to the large break of The Smile and finish up the thin finger-cracks above (as for The Smile). © Rockfax

FA. Clarke Alston 23.8.87 23/Aug/1987

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

DredStripe 19/Dec/17 Lead G/U

Had to have a few goes at the damp start, :)

with R2B
alice fuller 23/Sep/17 Lead RP

2nd 2011. Lead via hard start ...1st bits of gear preplaced

shaunhumphreys 01/Sep/17 Lead rpt
harry_lewis 31/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Shaun
Rory Bascombe 26/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Lenny 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S

With diamond smiles finish.

with Tom
Dale Comley 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Charlie Low 06/Aug/17 2nd O/S
HeatherF 13/May/17 Lead O/S
with Nathan
nathanlee 13/May/17 2nd O/S

To escape the sea!

with Heather
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead O/S
Jus 03/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Sue
Marti999 23/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Vic
Ed morris 22/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Jon Stewart
JackM92 14/Jul/16 Lead dog

Found the start very strenous and rested on a cam. Remainder technically really simple, but sustained.

with Australian Dave
beni ??/2016 2nd
climbhannahclimb 16/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Jackislav ?/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Fantastic from start to finish, very loose block that looks like a nice jug about the size of a car battery, seems fine to stand on and pull down on. Would be a poo pants moment if you chose to lay-back on it though!

redjerry 02/Sep/15 TR O/S
with Robert Duran
Ed Booth 21/Jul/15 2nd O/S

good as always on this crag

Adam Booth 21/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Following a pretty rubbish description, so no idea if I was on the right route! Whatever it was, amazing climbing (typical sharpnose) but I think harder than 5b, especially the start (which was bold too).

Tom Seccombe 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Harvey
Hidden 17/Jul/15 2nd β
pete johnson 16/Jul/15 Lead O/S
robgixer 16/Jul/15 Lead O/S
benkelsey 10/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Warm down to escape tide, pleasant.

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Another sick route at sharpnose!

willackers 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Another good route.

with Rob Napier
phil64 28/May/15 2nd O/S

great lead by Ali as the tide raced in , exciting hanging belay above the sea

with Ali Taylor
Spearos 25/May/15 Lead dog
with Riggo
ollie_e 09/May/15 Lead O/S
red_rhodesha 09/May/15 2nd
jgordon75 14/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tim Jepson
Andy Moles 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with James Oswald
ian bryant ??/2015 -
winter hill1 25/Nov/14 2nd
Hidden 24/Nov/14 Lead
burto 14/Sep/14 2nd
with ferdia
ferdia 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
richiebongo 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Mat Coburn
1poundSOCKS 03/Aug/14 2nd β

The crux is the start, and there are a few sustained sections, but plenty of rests. Well protected throughout, and a lovely rusty peg for historical interest.

EmilyElouise 24/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Mr Tickle 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Great climb, with a tough start

with RusseyB
Sarah Black 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tash 31/May/14 2nd dnf

Couldn't get off the ground! No strength after a year off. Thankfully the tide was out so I could scramble back around to the top!

markalmack 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with james marjot
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
Popkids 04/May/14 2nd O/S
with Kafoozalem
mike mo ??/2014 -
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Colin
Neil McA 07/Oct/13 2nd rpt
with James Turnbull
The old James turnbull 07/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with neil mcadie
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Justin T 06/Oct/13 2nd
with Russ
Russell Blackaller 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Not a bad line. Start was still a bit wet. I thought the hardest move was coming out of 'The Smile' break and into the crack system, which gets 5a...

with Justin
Ed Babs 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 20/Sep/13 2nd
with Ed
Hidden 24/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead
mike lawrence? 27/Jun/13 Lead

Start much harder than the rest which has fab holds, finished in the rain but rock still bone dry. Really nice climb.

with FatRob
Hidden 25/May/13 2nd O/S
Dave Rumney 25/May/13 Lead

very good

with Tanya Milner
Graham Westbrook 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Macca_7 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Felt so much harder than the first time although it was cooler and this time this was the warm up! Still a bloody good route thou!

with Stu Bradbury
Owen W-G 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Jim
jgordon75 30/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/12 2nd O/S
richsmithinbristol 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Graham Atkins 12/May/12 Lead
Jim Brooke 12/May/12 2nd O/S
with Pip, Rich
Pippa 12/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead
Martin Cooper 12/Apr/12 2nd
with Jacob McAdie, Neil
Neil McA 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with martin cooper, Jake McAdie
Brian H 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Paul Newman
ellis 06/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead
Marti999 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/12 TR
tim exley 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S

pumped out my brain, good rest in the middle. lot of rope drag wit single rope

Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 17/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/11 Lead
CRiddiford 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S

tough start if you prefer footholds to campusing!

with Mark
Hidden 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
mark20 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Better than Last Laugh

Fran S8 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/11 2nd
climbergg 31/Jul/11 2nd
Tim M 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Very damp start. One of those nice fluted holds snapped off (maybe more fragile when wet?) but managed to stay on.

with Emma
dannyboy83 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Dad
chris j 03/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Ben Bradford
tskelhon 04/Jun/11 Lead β

Good route after Jon Sh@t me up nearly decking!

Jon_Warner 04/Jun/11 2nd RP

After bailing on the lead. Unbalanced route with a hard (esp. if greasy) start.

with Tom
jameshiggins 25/May/11 2nd O/S


with Neil Adams
Neil Adams 25/May/11 Lead O/S

Nice climbing but absolutely baltic in the wind!

Hidden 24/May/11 Lead O/S
Alasdair Fulton 24/May/11 2nd
davesykes 30/Apr/11 Lead

found the smile bit the hardest - climbed with emmy and rich

with emmy
liamoloughlin 24/Apr/11 2nd
Macca_7 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Good start to the season. Nice climbing stiff start which sets the pump then just keep trucking!

with Si O'Hora
Hidden 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 03/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with nick
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
tobydunford 07/Nov/10 2nd O/S
feilx 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
chris j 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Ben Bradford
Chris_barr 05/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead O/S
andysroom ?/Aug/07 2nd dog
Hidden 07/Jul/07 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 -
Mark Kemball 21/Dec/06 Lead rpt
with Lee Bartrop
chris j 12/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Bradford
Dave-Westlake ??/2006 -
Mark Kemball 06/Oct/04 Lead
with Lee Bartrop
Hidden 11/Apr/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/87 Lead β
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High E3
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Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 37
High 5c
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Low 5c
High 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set