Rockfax Description
Another great pitch taking a direct line up the wall passing the break of The Smile. Start 4m right of the boulder at the start of Diamond Smiles.
Move up the wall to a good nut-placement in a pocket at 4m and continue to the wide break of The Smile. Move left and follow a faint line of weakness rightwards up the vertical wall to another diagonal break. Move left along the break to a brown stained widening of the break and take the left leading crack above it to the top. © Rockfax

FA. M. Hardwicke 15.5.86 15/May/1986

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Jo Stadden 30/Aug/17 2nd
with Chris Barr
Chris_barr 30/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Loses its way at the top slightly/ a bit sandy.

with Jo
Wendy 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Gaz
beni 05/Aug/17 2nd
with aiyer
aiyer 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Second E3 of the day... Bit of a fight but lovely moves! 😁

with Beni
James Oswald 17/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Good climbing - felt hard at the end of the day!

Katekeltie 09/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Duncan Campbell 09/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Lovely stuff. Felt tired from yday's efforts but seeing it voted as a hard E3/soft E4 on here makes some sense. The bottom is bold and I think I went direct to the blobby pocket in the upper wall. Defo not a soft E3 though whether it is a soft E4 is another matter...

Lumbering Oaf 31/May/17 2nd dog

Moving left along quartz break caused pumpage and required a rest or two thereafter.

with Luke
Flavio 13/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead O/S
beni 29/Oct/16 Lead O/S
manbat 29/Oct/16 2nd O/S

Didn't find any moves particularly hard, but oh the pump! Savagely sustained, and with my lack of endurance I don't know how I stayed on. Great route!

Marti999 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Vic
Luxulyan 18/Aug/16 Lead O/S
tim.fairhall 18/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Richard
Kevster 12/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
J.A.Thomson 14/Jul/16 TR dog

keeped going of rout

Hidden 18/Jul/15 2nd β
pete johnson 17/Jul/15 Lead O/S
benkelsey 10/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Not a good warm up! Pretty sustained from the smile break til the top. Good lead!

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Stupidly decided to do as a warm up! so much harder than diamond smiles!! felt sustained from the break pretty much to the top and didnt think i had enough to top out!! amazing route tho again!

phil64 28/May/15 Lead

An outstanding pitch, quality climbing, runout start, sustained climbing to a great sequence on the upper wall. A full grade harder then Diamond Smile!

with Ali Taylor
ollie_e 10/May/15 Lead dog

Seeing this is E4 on here makes sense - gets E3 in the West Country Climbs guide, pretty sure this is a slight variation on the E4 line, which goes direct with some fingery moves, ignoring the jug and horizontal cracking out right. Last route of the day and wasn't expect a fight like this! Peeled off going to the brows break, finished it up after that.

red_rhodesha 10/May/15 2nd
Adam Booth 10/May/15 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 10/May/15 Lead O/S

Went a bit more direct in the middle and at the top. Not sure if I was straying more on the line of Mustard but need to look at definitive guide.

Hidden 09/May/15 Lead O/S
brices 09/May/15 2nd β

Last route of the day, few good pulls needed on this

Llinos C 09/May/15 Lead
with Remus Knowles, Simon Brice
tobydunford 09/May/15 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
London Luke 04/May/15 Lead dnf

Took a 8 meter fall about 2/3 of the way up

ferdia 06/Apr/15 2nd
burto 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with ferdia, hertha
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Hidden ?/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 23/Aug/14 2nd
with ali k
Hidden 30/Jul/14 Lead rpt
alice fuller 30/Jul/14 2nd O/S
tim newton 02/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Justin T 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Good route, accidentally started up Wraith instead, line on the upper wall is confusing - following chalked holds I ended up coming into the sandy hole bit from below rather than along the break. Mild panic on top section having dumped all my large gear into the first half, Russ kindly provided air support with cams from above to finish it off without gibbering too much...

with Nancy
NancyJones 01/Jun/14 2nd dog
markalmack 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with james marjot
mike mo ??/2014 -
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Colin
Ed Babs 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 20/Sep/13 2nd
with Ed
Neil McA 26/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Stan
Hidden 20/Sep/12 2nd rpt
eddy-on-the-rocks 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Climbed the smile to the break so not a proper ascent. Good fun.

with ollie
Hidden 28/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Mike W 28/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with bigrob
Ramon Marin 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with ciaran tracey
nick arding 25/May/12 Lead β
with ben bradford
Jim Brooke 12/May/12 2nd dnf

today's warm up was probably the hardest trad route I've attempted

with Pip, Rich
richsmithinbristol 12/May/12 Lead
Pippa 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Brian H 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 26/Feb/12 2nd
with Ben Silvestre
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 17/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Not E4!

soph ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
JRae 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/11 2nd dog
nicolat ?/Aug/11 2nd
with James Mitchell
dannyboy83 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Dad
chris j 03/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Ben Bradford
jameshiggins 27/May/11 2nd O/S

Slightly harder than Diamond Smile, though I think the guidebook grade of E3 5C is still fair.

with Neil Adams
Neil Adams 27/May/11 Lead O/S
ellis 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Alan Willoner, Tom Bridgeland
pezzerrr 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Macca_7 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Cracking line up the full height of the wall! Tricky start then easier to a stiff section after the smile which fills the arms for the steep but easier last section! Well pleased!

with Si O'Hora
mwatson ??/2011 -
chris j 27/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Started up Diamond Smile to first break, so only E3 for me.

with Ben Bradford
Alex Mason 26/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Bold start, then a wicked tehnical upper wall. Felt E4 compared to break on through.

with Mikey G
Toby Dunn 14/Apr/09 Lead
with Alex Hughes
Toby Dunn 04/Apr/09 2nd
with Alex Hughes
Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
sara n 10/Oct/08 TR
with Neville Contractor
Steve Crowe 17/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Paz 27/Aug/07 2nd β

With a 6 limpets on a rock in my shoe on my harness. Five minutes or so in a hot oven and their weight was well worth it for their taste.

with AB
Hidden 02/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
ecowaller ??/2007 -
Ricky Rocks ??/2006 Lead O/S
Dave-Westlake ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2005 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 30/Sep/04 Lead
with Lee Bartrop
cornishben ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with Mike Raine
duncan 16/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Hugo Glover
Roget 16/Jun/97 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 28/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Jim Cheshire
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1994 -
with Dave Henderson
Alan James - UKC and UKH 05/Aug/93 Lead
with Phil Baker
Hidden ?/Oct/91 Lead O/S
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 29
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Not Set