Rockfax Description
Enjoyable, well-protected wall climbing. Start at a thin line that leads up to the break of The Smile.
Climb the thin line direct to the break of The Smile and move up to a good horizontal crack. Climb the fine wall above past two pegs to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Nick White 23.3.87 23/Mar/1987

Ticklists: Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

dready 03/Nov TR
aiyer 01/Sep 2nd
Kev Little 01/Sep Lead O/S

Great climbing after a greasy start

with aiyer
shaunhumphreys 31/Aug Lead G/U

Tried once last year, felt steady this time round will feel pretty pokey if the mid height peg goes with just one other bit of kit keeping you off the deck! got to the top and thought "surely not" considered a few static options and then just launched for the top, not to hard but feels wild! Well good!

Hidden 20/May 2nd β
debsb 21/Feb Lead β
with Glenda Huxter
Russell Blackaller 19/Dec/17 Lead O/S

First time i have climbed here with no chalk on the whole wall. Brilliant! All the wet bits stayed wet too. Great route.

DredStripe 19/Dec/17 2nd β
Brian H 08/Oct/17 Lead

Not quite O/S as Macca had to explain to me where it finishes, ie to the left of the top peg. Very good wall climbing.

alice fuller 08/Oct/17 TR β

pleased to onsight this on a top rope 2014.Probably bec ken was belaying:) great climb.2nd Woj Oct 2-16 .2nd Brian and Macca today.used Brian's beta for the top ...def the easier way

aiyer 23/Sep/17 Lead β

Want to claim onsight as although I was given beta... I did it a rather different way! Great fight at the end..

with Neil
shaunhumphreys 31/Aug/17 Lead dnf

Had one go! Stunning route, one to come back for!

harry_lewis 31/Aug/17 Lead β

On Shaun's gear up to the first peg. Fantastic, definitely deserves 3 stars

Hidden 30/Aug/17 Lead O/S
bigie bob 30/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Viv
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 24/Aug/17 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
Eduardo Martinez 21/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Lovely moves. Following chalk made a big difference, especially at the top. E5 in the old guide but E4 in my opinion. Removing the pegs would make the route even better and definitely E5.

Tom Seccombe 11/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Dan724
Dan724 11/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/17 2nd dog
James Oswald 17/Jul/17 2nd O/S

Really good. Less sustained but has harder moves than Pacemaker.

with Ian Burton
burto 17/Jul/17 Lead
with james oswald
Hidden 28/May/17 Lead O/S
HeatherF 12/May/17 2nd β
nathanlee 12/May/17 Lead O/S

Great top sequence, climbed in drizzle

Matt Harle 06/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Pure onsight, left the guidebook in the car, thought it one of the E3s. Great climbing, with a spicy final dash to the top!

alexm198 06/Nov/16 2nd dog

Gutted to peel off the last move on this after getting the sequence wrong. Easy (or easier...) when you know how!

beni 29/Oct/16 Lead
beni 18/Sep/16 TR
Mike_Hayes 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
MischaHY 09/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Excellent, well protected fun. Definitely not E5, but very worthwhile at E4!

with CoraS
Pippa 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden ?/Mar/16 2nd
Ellis Bird ??/2016 Lead O/S
Davros the Psyched 01/Nov/15 Lead β

On Luke's gear

Hidden 12/Oct/15 2nd dog
Hidden 08/Sep/15 Lead RP
Alex moore 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
phil64 26/May/15 Lead O/S

went a bit far left at top and somehow climbed left of the first peg so couldnt clip that. Why does the rockfax have the line and the grade wrong in their SW climbs?

Adam Booth 11/May/15 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 11/May/15 Lead O/S
brices 10/May/15 Lead O/S

A lot more involving than other routes here with lots of fiddly gear, feels harder than pacemaker to me. Great finishing moves

ferdia 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

awesome fun. the difficulty gradually builds to a cruxy finish.

Andy Moles 06/Apr/15 2nd

* at Sharpnose = *** most places.

with ferdia
JulesV 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Pleased with this as second trad route of the year. Made more exciting by incoming tide and taped up finger which kept bleeding all over the holds!

Hidden 05/Apr/15 2nd
kingholmesy ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Colin, Davros the Psyched
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 23/Aug/14 2nd

Not the route we'd intended but more amazing rock nonetheless.

with ali k
Ed Babs 16/Aug/14 Lead RP

Fell off after the long move yesterday so had to go back. : )

with AlexD
AlexD 16/Aug/14 2nd
with Ed Babs
Alex Mason 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Great fun. A very long move to finish, but safe enough.

with Jemma Powell
irish paul 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tim.fairhall 05/May/14 2nd O/S
with Richard
Luxulyan 05/May/14 Lead β
with Tim
Justin T 06/Oct/13 Lead dnf

Onsight to within a few feet of top... a little unfair for e4 imho.

Hidden 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 08/Aug/13 Lead β

Running out of time and tired arms meant I abbed the line quickly and stuck most of the gear in. Regretted the decision immediately as it just felt wrong on a trad route! Still, incredible route and what a finish!

Dan Lane 08/Aug/13 2nd dog

Somewhat desperate, i'd not want to do the last move on lead, that's for sure!

Hidden 08/Jul/13 2nd β
Mike W 08/Jul/13 Lead RP
with bigrob
Hidden 22/May/13 TR
Joel Perkin 22/May/13 TR dnf

Couldn't make the last move.

Rob84 05/May/13 2nd dog
with Rob Greenwood
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/May/13 -
with Rob Dyer
mike lawrence? 13/Apr/13 2nd
cymjt ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 -

Soft touch, probably closer to E3 than E5

Hidden 19/Sep/12 TR rpt
Hidden 21/Jun/12 2nd
ellis 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 06/Apr/12 2nd
with ellis
Hidden ??/2012 -
alaan 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
john nightingale 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Fran S8
Fran S8 08/Aug/11 2nd
miastacey ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Bob Smith
dannyboy83 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Great cruxy finish

with Dad
Hidden 21/Jul/11 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Awesome but v. hard top tho maybe went wrong way?

thomasadixon 26/Jun/11 Lead RP

Tried previously in 8/10 but it rained/I wussed out. Felt so easy this time! Good climbing, decent rests, crux at the top, wicked route.

with mwatson
pezzerrr 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 16/Apr/11 2nd
mwatson ??/2011 Lead O/S

did with a massive hangover, thought i'd probably just fall but got up it fine

Hidden 27/Sep/10 Lead O/S
chris j 27/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Last moves are desperate! I need longer arms...

with Ben Bradford
Hidden 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Brown 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Ben Lepesant
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Toby Dunn 04/Apr/09 Lead
with Alex Hughes
Hidden ??/2009 TR O/S
sara n 10/Oct/08 TR
with Neville Contractor
Hidden 06/Sep/08 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Sep/07 Lead β
Marti999 07/Jun/07 2nd
The Jazz Butcher 07/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
bronsonite 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Dave Barrans
andi turner 28/May/06 Lead O/S

Very steady at the grade, the pegs are good, but reach is useful!

with grimer
Ricky Rocks ??/2006 Lead O/S
Dave-Westlake ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
tuftynick ??/2005 Lead O/S
with nick warren
Mark Kemball 19/Oct/02 2nd
with Lee Bartrop
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/99 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 -
duncan 24/Aug/97 2nd
with AlisonC
duncan 15/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Hugo Glover
Roget 16/Jun/97 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 19/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden 23/Aug/87 2nd
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 46
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set