Rockfax Description
An immaculate pitch on the best rock that Sharpnose has to offer. Start at a low ledge a few metres right of the arete. Low in the grade.

From the right-hand end of the ledge, make a series of technical moves up a thin crack on the right to better holds. Continue up the wall via another crack to a quartz break that heads diagonally left to the top. Follow this line boldly to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Pat Littlejohn 24.4.86 24/Apr/1986

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

JackM92 05/Nov/16 Lead dog

First E4 attempt. Hung about for far too long and too a rest on the gear, should have just gone for it.

Rhys Deane 05/Nov/16 2nd dog
Lizard Ollie 28/Oct/16 2nd dog

Super pumpy but really nice

Hidden 28/Oct/16 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Oct/16 2nd rpt
Jus 03/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Sue
Leo Woodhead 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Very nice route that takes a stunning line of cracks and crystals. First E4 of the year. Felt a little soft for the grade. Probably graded for the position and 'tidal threat'!

with Haigh
Mike_Hayes 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Tubs 25/Jun/16 Lead dog

Gave it a good go but took too long. Even having rested on gear (twice) I was still so pumped that I pulled onto the top with heart in mouth. Great climbing and sustained at 5c.

with AJM
AJM 25/Jun/16 2nd β

Given all the pub talk of how soft for its grade this is meant to be I found it surprisingly tough really.

Nick Russell 01/Nov/15 2nd

Last climb of the day, in the setting sun, with the tide coming in. The moves on this were great, and the rock was probably the best we climbed on all day. It didn't have the dusty feel of the lower section of Fay, and it had had plenty of time to dry out.

Alex Winter 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S

Was well chuffed to get up this. Felt rinsed after Fay, and was battling arm cramps the whole way up. Great moves, really good rock, and low in the grade. Abject willy-waving by those suggesting it's E2 though.

with Nick
climbhannahclimb 16/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Jackislav ?/Oct/15 Lead rpt

Rested on this on the last visit, Cruised it today, mid E3 5c?

Hidden 17/Aug/15 Lead O/S
EmilyElouise 17/Aug/15 2nd O/S
mattnuttall 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Another superb route

philhilo 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S

E4, really? E2 5b more like. Still waiting for crux and run out section. 18 pieces of gear then ran out of extenders. Well protected jug fest.

with Helen E
Macca_7 02/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Retro flash as seconded back in 2009! Could really claim the onsight with my memory. Super pleased to do this with not too much fuss and as the warm up!

with Jim Newington
benkelsey 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Rained when I was a third of the way up, down climbed taking out the gear only for the sun to appear as I touched the ground. Never got hard and gears good leading to big finishing holds, felt fine at the top. Pacemaker is next!

with Shaun Humphreys
James Marshall 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

I thought a bit harder than Fay, technical and very fiddly gear slowed me down, whereas Fay just makes you go for it.

with sash
Liam Ingram 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
willackers 06/Jun/15 2nd β


with Rob Napier
ollie_e 10/May/15 Lead O/S

Don't think this deserves 6a, more like continuous 5c. Good route and first E4. Felt way bolder than it should have done as I didn't bring the right cams...

remus 10/May/15 2nd rpt
brices 10/May/15 Lead O/S

Last route of the weekend and i could feel it, climbed like a bag of ...

red_rhodesha 10/May/15 2nd
remus 09/May/15 2nd rpt

Followed Llinos up it.

Llinos C 09/May/15 Lead
with Remus Knowles, Simon Brice
quiffhanger 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Pretty cruisey until almost fluffing the muddy topout!

with Rachel
James Oswald 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Kinda onsight - I grabbed the thread on the lower off. Great route, though not as good as fay though maybe more technical. As usual I spent too long hanging around and was fully pumped at the top. Loose block at the top

with Andy Moles
James Oswald 09/Apr/15 -

We trundled the microwave sized block at the top of break on through. It wasn't attached to anything.

Luxulyan 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Abi
dbrooks 07/Mar/15 Lead dog

rest about 2/3rds of the way up, too pumped! top was desperate due to severe pump, was so close to coming off but just about managed to hold it together

with mo, John
John Tanner 07/Mar/15 2nd O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Hidden 24/Nov/14 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
bigie bob 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S
hornbywill 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Really good fun! Pleased with the onsight and glad I didn't get pumped

alice fuller 30/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/14 -
Hidden 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
AlexD 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
markalmack 31/May/14 Lead O/S

very nice route, but no way in hell is this E4. soft E3! I thought misery goat was about the same grade as this... diamond smiles was harder than this...

with james marjot
Bristoldave 30/May/14 Lead rpt
with john
Hidden 16/May/14 Lead β
alice fuller 09/May/14 2nd O/S
with Ken Palmer
Hidden ??/2014 -
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Colin
mike mo ??/2014 -
R2B 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Totally stoked to get this. Felt pretty focused all the way.

with Crispin
Hidden 23/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Johnny Baker 20/Sep/13 AltLd
with Sam Richards
remus 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S

What a path. Spent ages resting and sorting gear before the final break out left only to discover it's on huge finger slots. Anna nearly got it clean, one rest right at the top.

with Sam Williams, Anna Duckett, Michael Watson
JBO 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Soft E4, but quite pumpy.

jas128 08/Aug/13 2nd dog
Hidden 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 05/Jul/13 2nd
with Burton
ferdia 05/Jul/13 2nd
with Burton
burto 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with ferdia, moleo
Dave Searle 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Ed morris 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Complete lack of confidence most of the way but the climbing was fantastic in hindsight. Lots of 5c, no 6a thankfully. First time I have ever managed to properly recover on jugs. Eroica yesterday this today, fantastic weekend!

with Colin
Dave Rumney 25/May/13 Lead

1 rest 15ft from the top. Found some good small wires near the top which meant the finish wasn't bold at all.

with Tanya Milner
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Graham Atkins 12/May/12 Lead
misterb 06/May/12 2nd O/S

awesome route and never too hard between good holds.

with justin
Justin T 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with Nick B
Brian H ??/2012 Lead O/S

Led two or three times in the 1990s

nick arding 15/Oct/11 2nd
with nick saunders
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 16/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Great climb, suits my style. Good first E4.

Ed Booth 16/Sep/11 Lead O/S
JRae 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Awesome. Found it fine, perhaps should have lead Fay.

Hidden 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S
dan gibson 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with michael porter
john nightingale 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Fran S8 09/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/11 2nd
dannyboy83 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Dad
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead dnf
stevebarratt 06/May/11 Lead O/S
with Nathan Lawrence
Spacetourist ?/May/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Rosea Day ?/May/11 2nd O/S
david morse 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Felt harder than Fay

with lole, ben anderson
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
jkarran 24/Apr/11 2nd

Brilliant climbing, the crux is low down but there's a little sting in the tail.

with Aly
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Pippa 24/Oct/10 Lead
with Jon
Hidden 26/Sep/10 2nd
Mike W 26/Sep/10 Lead RP

clean this time.

CarolineH 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Dave
Bristoldave 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Stu Bradbury
thomasadixon 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Almost fluffed it at the top, thinking it was over and grabbing for the top somehow missed the finishing jugs! Recouped and found them, great route.

BeccaSnowden 04/Aug/10 2nd dog

Last route of the day, got pumped near the top and rested once or twice.

with Tom
Hidden 26/Jul/10 2nd
Mike W 26/Jul/10 Lead dog

1 rest near the top. Should hav gon for it on.

Alex Mason 26/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Nifty little route, was really damp/wet so felt quite sketchy.

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 26/Jul/10 Lead β

Lead on Alex's gear to save time (lots of routes to do!) Nice to just enjoy the climbing, which is superb!

Brown 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Ben Lepesant
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Macca_7 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Wow what a route so steep but on good holds!

with Stu Bradbury
Ed Babs 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead O/S
ukb shark 29/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 04/Apr/09 Lead
with Alex Hughes
Hidden 07/Jul/08 2nd O/S
ellis ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Andy Benson
sebrider ??/2008 Lead O/S

Preplaced gear. Would be awsome to to properly, Sharpnose is amazing :)

with Roby Rodolf
Steerpike 26/Oct/07 AltLd dnf
with Bruce
Hidden 10/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/07 Lead
Mark Kemball 31/Aug/07 2nd
with Nic Dill
alaan 23/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Went a bit off line half way and had to downn climb some...by which point I was pumped and by the top very very pumped! Harder than Diamond Smile, felt fair E4 5c. Al

feilx 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Heather
datoon 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with MJ
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 25/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 24/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Alex Mason
bronsonite 14/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Andy Lole
Ally Smith ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Dave P
chris j 14/Jun/06 2nd dog
with Ben Bradford
jimdanson 28/May/06 2nd O/S
with Mike Adams
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Dave-Westlake ??/2006 -
Ricky Rocks ??/2006 Lead O/S
Neil ??/2006 Lead rpt
The Jazz Butcher ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Marti999 ?/Sep/05 2nd O/S

in the rain, with suprising friction

LC ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
LC ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2005 Lead O/S
Gus 15/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with simon "the horse" wilson
cornishben ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Mike Raine
Smelly Fox ?/Aug/04 2nd
Adam Ellwood 23/May/04 Lead O/S

Soft for E4

with Praker
Davros the Psyched ??/2001 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 06/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Greg Forward
Roget 05/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with jim
Hidden 02/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
DJonsight ??/2000 -
goi.ashmore 30/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with James Tracey
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Robin
andy_pemberton ?/Mar/98 2nd
with Brian Hannon
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1998 2nd
with Nick Dalzell
duncan 15/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Hugo Glover
lowersharpnose 25/May/97 Lead O/S

Got pumped low down and stayed pumped all the way to the top.

with tombawimba
Derek Ryden 13/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Mark Lee
Hidden 29/Aug/96 Lead β
mattnuttall 19/Jul/94 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S

On our honeymoon.

with Karen Ghiselli
Steve Crowe 12/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with KM
pmot ??/1993 2nd O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Jez Holding, Joe Mahoney
Rich Kirby 11/Aug/92 2nd
PaulTanton ?/Jul/92 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 23/May/92 Lead
with John Jefferies
whispering nic ?/May/92 -
with Graham Iles
Hidden 08/Sep/91 Lead O/S
Chris Wright 24/Aug/91 Lead O/S
keefe 27/May/91 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 27/May/91 -
with keefe
Hidden ?/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 08/Aug/89 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 63
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 61
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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