Rockfax Description
A stunning, pumpy wall climb that fires up the face on generally-good holds. The pegs on the route are fast deteriorating but alternative gear options are available. Start at the base of a right to left diagonal line of quartz cracks.
Move up the cracks and then head diagonally right across the wall on good holds to another left-trending line of quartz cracks, good spike runner above. Climb the cracks to a wider section and follow this to below some thin cracks that head up the wall. Climb the wall and thin cracks, past pegs, to a short thin crack that heads slightly right to a break. Follow the break left to a niche and the top just above. © Rockfax

FA. Pat Littlejohn 16.5.86 16/May/1986

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Good E4s, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

aiyer 23/Sep/17 Lead β

Lovely climbing...get on it before the pegs deteriorate any further...

with Neil
Jo Stadden 30/Aug/17 2nd
with Chris Barr
Chris_barr 30/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Mega. Pegs are pretty fucked but can be backed up.

with Jo
Dave Musgrove Jnr 28/Aug/17 Lead rpt
with Viv
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 24/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Ed Bulman
gazhbo 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Wendy 06/Aug/17 Lead β
with Gaz
Hidden ?/Aug/17 2nd dog
tim whitaker 12/Jul/17 Lead dnf

Not a warm up!!

with Liz Whitaker
ricci.andrea86 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S
kennythescot 31/May/17 Lead dog

Quality route, underestimated the pump! Got to come back for another go.

Lee_Meaden 31/May/17 2nd
Hidden 28/May/17 2nd O/S
HeatherF 14/May/17 2nd β
with Nathan
nathanlee 14/May/17 Lead O/S
with Heather
aiyer 02/Apr/17 2nd
with Wendy
beni 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 02/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Abby, Beni
NuclearNev ??/2017 -

pumpy pumpy pumpy

Hidden 03/Oct/16 2nd rpt
Jus 03/Oct/16 Lead dog

Pumped! I will be back!

with Sue
Leo Woodhead 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Amazing route. Long and pumpy. Never desperate but definitely needs a cool head to keep you going when the pump sets in. So chuffed to bag 2 E4s in a day at this stunning spot. I'll definitely be back!

with Haigh
Kevster 12/Aug/16 Lead dog

1 rest at the double pegs. I guess starting whilst still nursing a hangover was always destined to fail. Pumped silly by the end.

Mike_Hayes 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Sadie ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Adam B
Nick Russell 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S

This one had been on my list for ages and it didn't disappoint. I found the climbing enjoyable all the way up, and never even too hard. It definitely benefits from a confident approach and a decent amount of fitness. I nearly fluffed up the top after grabbing a loose hold in the base of the niche turned on gripped mode.

Alex Winter 01/Nov/15 2nd O/S

Really good route, and a smooth lead by Nick. Very sustained, felt well boxed at the top. The rock isn't quite as good as elsewhere, but the climbing and line make up for it. Unbelievably warm for November!

with Nick
benkelsey 16/Oct/15 Lead G/U

Took a 30 second rest below crux as feeling the burn from yesterday. Thought the gear in the second half was total gash and got the fear of whipping the length of the fin! Glad to return to the horizontal. Much longer than pacemaker and no chalk to follow.

Hidden 12/Oct/15 2nd dog
Luke Dawson 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
datoon 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 16/Aug/15 2nd O/S


Jackislav 19/Jul/15 2nd
Alex moore 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
pete johnson 17/Jul/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
philhilo 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Arrived late so one route only. Steep but jugs all the way, move quick.

with misha
Misha 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Got to Sharpnose late after too long spent at Portishead Quarry and it was a late tide, so only had time for one route - on the route at 8pm. Promptly went completely off route due to not looking in the guide book properly, starting up the obvious break of Pacemaker. Realised my error when I couldn't see how to move up and right at 5c, it was a pretty blank wall that might have gone at 6b! Reversed to the ground with some faffing to remove the gear as didn't fancy doing an E5 with no warm up. Got on the right line, which was pretty steady to start with, steep but with lots of good holds. Main issue was that a lot of the gear was a bit fiddly as not used to the rock type. Chalked up so the line was easy to follow. Very much my style, steep but not overhanging face climbing, mildly technical in places but above all requires stamina and being able to use the rests. Felt pumpier than it probably would have been if I'd had a proper warm up but even so it was fine as I could shake out every couple of moves. Crux is going up to and past the three pegs from about half way up. Only one of the pegs is decent, got a back up brass offset but not much else in evidence, though I wasn't looking too hard. Really good, the kind of route I'd happily do again! Hard E3 5c in my book but I can do stamina routes...

with Phil
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead β
James Marshall 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with sash
Llinos C 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with Remus Knowles, Simon Brice
Adam Booth 10/May/15 Lead O/S


Ed Booth 10/May/15 Lead β

Led on Ad's gear instead of seconding.

brices 09/May/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant, bring lots of cams

quiffhanger 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Awesome! Got a little pumped - didn't feel any easier than Pacemaker although maybe just not as fit early season. Did it's job - confirmed I'm not ready for Coronary Country!

with Rachel
James Oswald 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Absolutely amazing, I spent a long time hanging around on the lower wall trying to lace it with gear. Felt okay but pumpy when I finally committed, there are some good holds in the middle of that wall. Good red cam too. Glad to do this one, I was pretty pumped..

with Andy Moles
ferdia 06/Apr/15 2nd
Andy Moles 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ferdia
kingholmesy ??/2015 Lead rpt

Good to lay this one to rest after falling off it last year.

with Colin
ian bryant ??/2015 -
wolf.leeb 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with hosey
AlexD 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Desperate slap about 3/4 of the way up (only because I'm short I think) - spicy times! Otherwise felt technically easier than Break On Through, just pumpier and less gear.

with Ed
bigie bob 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Pumpy!! Have always been a bit intimidated by this as when I visited Sharpnose as fledgling climber I got super shut-down. Felt ok up to the pegs but they are pretty dodge, only one looked in a reasonable state to me? Only got a small blue alien (bomber) above these before having to slap my way to the top riding a wave of lactic... certainly top end of the grade, especially with the pegs in the state they are.

with GuyVG
Hidden 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 19/Jul/14 Lead rpt
JM 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo
Hidden 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Sarah Black 31/May/14 Lead dog
markalmack 30/May/14 Lead O/S
with james marjot
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead dog

One fall at the crux pegs. Gutted.

with Mark the vet
Neil McA 07/Oct/13 2nd rpt
with James Turnbull
The old James turnbull 07/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with neil mcadie
climbingsheep 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Mike Watson
Hidden 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Anna duckett ?/Aug/13 2nd
with Remus
peteharrison06 ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Great route spoiled slightly by the crux being a clip-up on rotting fixed gear. Get rid @ E5, or put in something sustainable.

Russell Blackaller 07/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Only just got this clean. Big and adventurous in perfect conditions. One of my best days out at a crag for sure.

with Justin
Justin T 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Very cool, laced it up.

with Russ
Hidden 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Dave Searle 25/Jun/13 2nd
tradandybrown ?/Jun/13 -
with Rob andrews
perrys 26/May/13 2nd β
masa-alpin 26/May/13 Lead dog

Climbed far too slowly, as a result absolutely pumped above the pegs and fell off. Topped out after rests. Simon seconded cleanly. What a rock and what a route!

with Simon P
morganator 11/May/13 Lead

Great route- pumpy. Lead it then seconded it as Sophie also led it. Just as pumpy second time!

soph 11/May/13 Lead β

on Jons gear

Tom Livingstone 08/Jan/13 Lead
Dan Lane ??/2013 2nd O/S

Just felt like a brilliant f6b+ on a top-rope...tidied up the abseil tat a bit by cutting off the horrible old stuff, leaving some decent static rope.

cymjt ??/2013 -
Ellis Bird ??/2013 Lead O/S
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 30/Aug/12 Lead dog

Fell just pulling into the niche - lacticsville. Awesome route.

with ollie
Ed Babs 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Gritty low down. Pumped and sure I wouldn't make it from the start of the thin cracks all the way to the top. : )

with Mike Hawkins
rustaldo 29/Jul/12 Lead dog

One rest at the pegs :( - hungover and tired. Gutted! Should've carried on until I fell.. so much regret! Lesson learnt. Amazing route! E4 5c ***

with Lewis
burto 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with tom powell, jerome
Hidden 21/Jun/12 2nd
Mike W 20/Jun/12 Lead RP
with bigrob
Ramon Marin 17/Jun/12 Lead RP
with ciaran tracey
El3ctroFuzz 11/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Extremo Pumpo. 1 poor peg, backupable, the rest your so high it dont matter, or u can back them up.

with George Coiley
Hidden 11/Jun/12 TR
richsmithinbristol 12/May/12 2nd
with Pippa
Pippa 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 06/May/12 Lead RP

Fell off this a year ago.

with Cusco
Marti999 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
colesy 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
alice fuller ??/2012 2nd dog

totally pumped out on slopers at the top

Bob ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
tom106 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S

incredible route! brilliant day!!

funsized 12/Nov/11 2nd dog

Blinking hell this is pumpy. Amazing O/S from tom. Fun race against the tide! (tide won, just)

dan gibson 01/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with michael porter
Hidden 01/Sep/11 2nd O/S
JRae 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Perfect climbing. Ace!

dannyboy83 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Dad
Adam Lincoln 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Keith Sharples, Kev Avery
thomasadixon 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S


with Mike
Tom Heslam ?/May/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Rosea Day ?/May/11 2nd β
Ben1983 29/Apr/11 Lead β

Not a proper ascent since Dave had placed the gear for me to clip.

david morse 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Very happy to do this route, wanted to do it for ages. Classic!

with lole, ben anderson
Fran S8 24/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd dog
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/11 2nd
mwatson ??/2011 -

So good, done it twice both times felt like definitive hard E4, it's pumpy so it'll probably seem easy if you don't get pumped

Dave Turnbull, BMC 26/Sep/10 2nd rpt

Led in late 80s

with Rich Mayfield
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Mike W 12/Sep/10 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
msoldn 03/Aug/10 2nd O/S

simply amazing... pump fest, even on second

with Jason
Hidden 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 26/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Could be E5 when the pegs go, not much easier than pacemaker. Absolutely awesome though.

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 26/Jul/10 Lead β

Lead on Alex's gear. Such an impressive wall and impressive line. Not much between this and pacemaker move for move, but hard to tell when your not placing gear.

Brown 17/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Ben Lepesant
Ally Baba 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Thought it was a great route, But didn't think it was E4!

with Tony Stone, Mcgeek
Hidden 31/May/10 2nd
Chad123 11/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Simply awesome - first half is pretty steady then suddenly the steep crux arrives -though with plenty of pegs to aim for. Pump kicks in at the top but climbing eases up. Best route done this week!

with Emily
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
nick arding 10/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
simon kimber 23/May/09 Lead dnf
with Hamish Rowe
Toby Dunn 04/Apr/09 Lead
with Alex Hughes
sebrider ?/Apr/08 2nd O/S

Just...fingery and dusty higher up!

with Roby Rudolf
Hidden 04/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Paz 27/Aug/07 Lead dnf

Sat on a cam/wire below the crux pegs and dogged my way down to the spike and abbed.

with AB
Hidden 06/May/07 2nd
Mark Stevenson 06/May/07 Lead O/S
alaan 18/Mar/07 Lead dnf

Didn't warm up, freezing day, got pumped. Duh.

with Aly
ecowaller ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
dan gibson 25/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Dave Kerr 12/Aug/06 Lead
with Jill Kerr
bronsonite 03/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Alex Cannon
Hidden 25/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 25/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Alex Mason
Ally Smith ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Dave P
beanfingers 17/Jun/06 2nd O/S

awesome climb but massively long - my arms had melted by the top

with felix
feilx 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Crazy Tom
Ricky Rocks ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
datoon ??/2006 Lead O/S
with RT
Dave-Westlake ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Dave Musgrove ?/Sep/05 2nd β

Good sustained pitch.

with David
Hidden 31/Jul/05 2nd
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2005 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 30/Oct/04 Lead

A big tick for me after quite a bit of training with it in mind.

with Lee Bartrop
Gus 15/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with simon "the horse" wilson
furry ?/Jun/04 Lead dog
with Neil
Adam Ellwood 22/May/04 Lead O/S
with Praker
pete johnson ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Lun
PaulTanton 01/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 24/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Viv
Davros the Psyched ??/2001 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Greg Forward
Brian H ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Adrian Parsons
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
DJonsight ??/2000 -
goi.ashmore 04/Sep/99 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Paul Clarke ??/1998 Lead
with Nick Dalzell
duncan 15/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Hugo Glover
kp64zl ?/Mar/97 2nd
with David Pickford
Roget 05/May/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Greg Cunningham ??/1996 Lead
Derek Ryden ?/Jun/95 Lead dog

Rest on peg

with Jim Cheshire
Hidden 06/May/95 2nd
Eduardo Martinez ??/1995 Lead O/S

Did it in the early 90's. Given E5 at the time.

whispering nic ?/Aug/94 Lead
with Kat
mattnuttall 19/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Dave Henderson
Alan James - UKC and UKH 05/Aug/93 Lead
with Phil Baker
Hidden 01/Aug/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/93 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 12/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with KM
ukb & bmc shark 08/May/93 Lead
Rich Kirby 11/Aug/92 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/May/92 -
with Graham Iles
Chris Wright 24/Aug/91 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe 27/May/91 -
with keefe
keefe 27/May/91 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/90 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball ??/1990 2nd
with John Jefferies
Hidden ??/1990 2nd
Mike Owen 07/Aug/89 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ??/1989 2nd O/S
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 63
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set