Rockfax Description
The classic of the crag with superb sustained climbing and just enough gear. High in the grade. Start up the thin cracks three metres right of the square hole. Step right when the going gets tough and move up to a ledge. Finish more easily above. © Rockfax

FA. G.Lewis, H.Griffiths, M.Harber, C.Parkin 1985

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Best slab climbs of the UK, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?.

Alimitch 17/Sep Lead β
with Martin Chester
Mike_Hayes 30/Aug Lead β

On Dan's gear

with dan parkes
bencole 28/Aug Lead β

Brilliant route, just hard enough for me. We'd abbed in down the line so can't claim an onsight but climbed it pretty smooth today. You definitely get your money's worth out of a set of RP's and brass offsets on this. The thought of taking a good lob onto them certainly helps you pull a bit harder through the crux.

with Dad
PaddyFreer 26/Aug 2nd O/S
with freec
freec 26/Aug TR O/S

tried on top-rope to see what E3 5c felt like! brilliant route but a way off leading it!

Tom.Priestley 24/Aug Lead O/S

Cool route. Lots of brassware needed. Save the IMP 2 for just below the crux.

marcus_goff 10/Aug 2nd O/S
Gambit 10/Aug -

Great route, felt bold. Had a moment on the good hold post crux, sorted my head out with a sky hook, top wall so much fun

with Marcus
GeoffG 08/Aug 2nd
with tim lowe
FlavioL1989 04/Aug Lead O/S
with Jenny
JendeHoxar 04/Aug 2nd
Hidden 01/Aug Lead O/S
GPN 07/Jul Lead O/S

Great route! Down climbed from the crux to get the RP's I'd already placed but needed higher up!

with Annette
net 07/Jul 2nd
with George
Dan724 14/Jun Lead O/S

Exciting stuff...

with Cualan Ritchley
The Grist 01/Jun Lead O/S

Enjoyable route. The crux is possibly a ground fall (unless I missed some gear?). Either way the crux felt OK and I enjoyed the climb.

nathanlee 30/May 2nd β


with Heather
HeatherF 30/May Lead O/S
with Nathan
Hidden 29/May TR dog
Roisin ?/May Lead O/S
with theomoore
ian bryant ??/2017 -
robpartridge 29/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Sarah
mattnuttall 02/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Super. Thin, slate like climbing... Wish I'd taken brass offsets and the middle sized tricams as runners I mustered before before hardest section were sketchy at best... Agree with tough E3. Great climbing.

Andrew Wilson 02/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Will Hunt 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Wall climbing at its absolute finest. Immaculate.

Hidden 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Great route, thought the start was quite serious as I didn't get any good gear for the crux. Very slate-esque. Great crag as well, very different to Range East - atmospheric with the high sea battering the belay ledge.

with Will Hunt, Dan Matthewman
JendeHoxar 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
James S 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S

beautiful climb which is a lot easier than it looks from the ground!

with melty
islandlynx 29/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Did I miss a placement or not have small enough gear? Maybe my nuts weren't big enough. Either way I was uncomfortable with the run out and asked matt to sling me the ab rope.

benw681 25/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Mick Hill
Marti999 21/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Debbie
MichaelGallimore 09/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Super thin gear at the crux! Felt amazing pulling through. Lots of high feet

with Jared Kitchen
ian d f 29/May/16 Lead O/S
pearson9596 29/May/16 2nd O/S
onlyfoddington 29/May/16 2nd O/S

Right at my limit, was pleased I managed to second it clean.

with Michael, Ian
Hidden 02/May/16 2nd O/S
Dan Hostford 02/May/16 Lead O/S

Great route as always. finding the gear is fun. Jo got this clean with out any trouble, what a beast.

elliptic 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Tom R.
evhall 07/Mar/16 TR dog

Fantastic route - slipped off crux - reckon one day it will be a go-er

with Mike B
davebrox ??/2016 -
Hidden 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Bernie L 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
deklan 08/Sep/15 Lead
with josh
dobby 200 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Kendal
Hidden 03/Aug/15 Lead O/S
sparbus 18/Jul/15 2nd
with mike b
LJC 20/Jun/15 Lead dnf
with Greg
LJC 20/Jun/15 TR RP

Greasy misty conditions, fell off 3 times on lead, pulling ropes each time and going ground up. Gave up with jangled nerves, Greg jugged the ab line and I managed it clean on top rope to escape.

with Greg
JasonK 25/May/15 2nd
with Dan Shacklock
Cailean Harker 21/May/15 Lead O/S
Ollie B 04/May/15 Lead O/S

Bob led up crack to start but came back down. Pulled ropes and finished it off.

with B.Brewer
tom jefferies 04/May/15 2nd O/S
Andrew1 08/Apr/15 2nd
with Hulda
Hulda 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Andi
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 TR
duncandarnell 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Steady climbing all the way really

with jord smith
rd20 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Vince
3 Names 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Robert Dufton
Dizz 20/Aug/14 TR O/S
with David
Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Dan Hostford 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with George Hostford
Ed Booth 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Anna Pugh
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Coops_13 09/Jun/14 TR O/S

Really nice, will have to come back for the lead

Dan Geh 09/Jun/14 TR O/S
with Paddy, Ross
Hidden 02/Jun/14 Lead O/S
will_benfold 31/May/14 2nd dog

Messed up the crux first time round, fine after that

quiffhanger 31/May/14 Lead O/S
skippington 29/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/14 Lead O/S
Justin T 08/May/14 2nd

Brilliant, brilliant route, and I don't like slabs! Take micros, take care, enjoy.

with Rachel
Rachel Slater 08/May/14 Lead O/S

Beautiful route, way easier than I expected!

eel 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
Tom Livingstone 24/Apr/14 Lead β

Belayed John on it, but felt like an onsight! Hot, sweaty, boxed and sore feet. Fun times!

with Tim Neill, John Orr
Duncan Campbell 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Bloody brilliant. Nice, steady, positive climbing that is well protected by pretty good but small RPs. Soft for the grade in my opinion. So good though.

Julian Cooper 16/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Stuart Knott
jcw ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S


with Martin Doyle
w.pettet-smith ?/Sep/13 -
edmitchell 31/Aug/13 2nd dog

Lots of good small handholds, but finding foothold is more difficult than first appears

Adam Booth 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Matt Cooke 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
Hidden 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 14/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Hard! Never in all my days have I crimped so hard. Awesome, but painful.

with Andy
pie_eater_pete 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 03/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Much better with a fall rack!

with Richard Snow
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead dnf
Andrew1 13/Jul/13 Lead
with Hulda
Hulda 13/Jul/13 2nd
with Andi
Matt Harle 14/Jun/13 Lead O/S


lcullum7 13/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/May/13 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 06/May/13 2nd β

Tricky little number, Cool kitten claw hold.

with Jemma Powell
Maddie 04/May/13 2nd O/S
shed_hed 04/May/13 Lead O/S

Thin and sustained but cool! Was glad of small wires and cams. Wanted to bail at one point but the gear was marginal at best so had to man up and make the move to a rest and gear, glad I did.

with Maddie Sweetman
Chi Cheng 03/May/13 Lead O/S

Thin! Thank god for IMPs, Micro Wallnuts and Mini Rocks. Placed nothing bigger than a wallnut size 2.

with Adam Knightly
Hidden 02/May/13 Lead
dan ely 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with jon (ukc reading)
Hidden 31/Dec/12 TR O/S
Ed morris 28/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Dickon
pembrokeshirecaver 27/Jun/12 2nd O/S
TDSvejstrup 12/Jun/12 TR O/S
Katherine Ross 10/Jun/12 TR O/S

Deviated at the top slightly as the TR was set up from the abseil stakes but it seems the crux was further down.

Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd dog
drysori 04/Jun/12 Lead
jossjones 22/May/12 2nd
james.slater 22/May/12 Lead O/S

Amazing route!! Very thin with a few bold bits, but very steady!

Keendan 06/May/12 Lead β

Very happy to get this done. Was a little worried about the gear. I went for a sideways nut in the big gap, but not convinced. The IMPs were good I guess. Crux was straightforward/crimpy. The top was a romp after the scary bit was over.

drysori ?/May/12 Lead
markalmack 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

shoddy gear. i wouldn't want to fall off this one.

Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead β
Jim Slater 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Andrew Sandercock 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Want to come back and lead this.

with Mark A
Adam Coles ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/11 2nd O/S
tim newton 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 27/Jul/11 Lead
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Hidden 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Glyn 29/Jun/11 Lead β
with Luke, Barni
pipof747 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Glyn Hudson, Barni
barni 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
vertically_challenged 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S

got scared 3/4 metres above #1 rp and was finding it hard to read the moves. but worked it out and pushed on through to the top. a climb definetley worth doing with plenty of rp's.

CharlieMack 28/May/11 2nd O/S
with David
benkelsey 28/Apr/11 Lead dog

managed to psych myself out on this one.. got to the good jug before the crux move and got pumped trying to get the sequence. placed a cam from there and had a rest on that (only two lobes in - very dodge) then managed the crux to the gear.

Ally Smith 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
GrantB 28/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
petellis 28/Apr/11 2nd O/S
jacobjlloyd 19/Feb/11 Lead β

Abseiled down to dry/chalk the holds in the middle, as the ab rope was there and they were wet, and i was feeling out of shape and nervous about the OS. Glad I did, as it allowed me the liberty of checking an important wire slot, even tested to make sure I got the right one. So I had good beta for a crucial few metres in the middle, which took a lot of psychological pressure/uncertainty out of the equation! After that it felt pretty fair at the grade, and if you have a good selection of small wires it was pretty safe. Absolutely beautiful climbing!

with Paddy
mrstarwarsman 19/Feb/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
adie84 ??/2011 -
thomasadixon 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Stupidly top-roped this years ago...or so I thought, turns out I didn't do most of the line, went way off left so pretty much o/s. Awesome line, super bold crux, wicked climb.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 09/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Really hard - very pleased to have climbed it clean. Must be a scary lead!

with Tom
richardr 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S
muttley_109 04/Sep/10 TR dog
with Gary Lewis
Pippa 30/Aug/10 2nd
with Jon
C Mclean 27/Aug/10 Lead
with Kieran O' Sullivan
Hidden 27/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/10 2nd
david morse 26/Aug/10 Lead RP

Backed off from the crux in the past, good to get it sent. bring your #2 RP's and keep the faith, its scary but the gears all there

with siobhan
Hidden 26/Aug/10 2nd O/S
jonny taylor 12/Aug/10 TR O/S

The bottom half was as sustained as it gets, on tiny holds!

Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Speeddemonsi 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
DafSWMC 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Siwan
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
soph ?/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Dan McManus
TM_Horton 16/Jun/10 2nd dog
with ed
spacey 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Paul Evans 15/May/10 2nd
with spacey
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Ed morris 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Absolutely amazing climb, second E3 and onsight!

with arthur
ChrisAllen ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Sally Haines
RobRock84 29/Sep/09 TR O/S

wow!amazing route!

RobRock84 29/Sep/09 TR rpt

so good I had to do it twice

Hidden 17/Sep/09 TR rpt
belay bunny turned bad 17/Sep/09 TR rpt
with loundsy
Hidden 25/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/09 2nd O/S
C coldwell-storry 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with George Ullrich
dodfoster 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with tom pearson
Shauna 23/May/09 2nd O/S
with Jules
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
Hidden 01/Nov/08 TR O/S
Tim Steward 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Crispin
Hidden 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
jonnybull ?/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Alban
dan gibson 28/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
tobydunford 17/Jul/08 TR O/S
with Harry Martin
Hidden 06/Jul/08 Lead O/S
irish paul 11/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 10/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Mark Walter 10/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Chad123 04/May/08 AltLd O/S

Great climb with lovely slabby moves leading into a steep headwall.

with Sam
Hidden 16/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2008 2nd O/S

Ok I only seconded this but remember it as feeling easier than Be Clever further to the left which I tried to climb two years later. Maybe it was just the hot weather or something!

with ts
mbutton ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Alex Adgar
Ram MkiV 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S


with Dan
Hidden 23/Aug/07 Lead
Hidden 21/Aug/07 TR O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 05/May/07 2nd O/S
bfreeman ?/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/07 Lead dnf
benjhans 05/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Awesomly crimpy!

Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd
feilx 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Sion
givemetea 24/Aug/06 TR O/S
crag_monster ?/Aug/06 TR
Hidden 07/Jul/06 TR O/S
ewen 16/May/06 Lead O/S
John Kettle 16/May/06 2nd
with ewen
jim robertson ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
John Kettle ??/2006 -
Hidden 24/Sep/05 2nd
Bella 14/May/05 2nd O/S
with Michael
Hidden ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/05 2nd
alex_th 10/Apr/04 2nd
with Tim Riley, Will Frost
buzby78 06/May/02 Lead
Adam Lincoln ??/2002 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/01 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Viv
Hidden 31/May/01 Lead O/S
ellis ?/May/01 2nd O/S
with Alan Willoner
Hidden ??/2001 -
belay bunny turned bad ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead O/S
with andy benson
Hidden 14/Aug/99 Lead
brummievet ?/Jul/99 2nd O/S

Did on school trip. Tough for the grade, but lovely climbing. Carreg-y-Barcud is ace!

Nigel Coe ??/1999 TR
Carl Smethurst 24/Jul/98 TR
with Ian Pickles
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/98 Lead
with Hugh
Steve Crowe 07/Apr/96 Lead O/S

Lots of good micro wires.

with KM
Billg ?/Aug/94 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1990 -
with Nick Dalzell
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1985 Lead O/S
with Shaun Derry
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 46
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set