24m.

Rockfax Description
Another majestic slab route with extremely sustained and fingery climbing. Start at the first crack right of Kitten Claws. Climb this to join Billy Spragg, then step right to follow the continuation crack and then directly up the wall above. © Rockfax

FA. C Parkin, G Lewis, H Griffiths 1985 (with a bolt runner). FA. S Monks 1990 (without bolt)

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Best slab climbs of the UK, The Best of Pembroke, Ultimate E5 ticklist, 101Pembroke Extremes, Billg's 2017 sweepstake list

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Davros the Psyched 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route taking the full height of the wall. A fair bit of good gear (plus a fair bit of not-so-good gear) and some thank god holds to aim for.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route taking the full height of the wall. A fair bit of good gear (plus a fair bit of not-so-good gear) and some thank god holds to aim for.
Frank the Husky 19 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I seconded this, but would still advise anyone to get on it. The gear is 'reasonable', though there's an interesting runout prior to the crux. The top wall (where the old bolt was) is easier than it looks...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I seconded this, but would still advise anyone to get on it. The gear is 'reasonable', though there's an interesting runout prior to the crux. The top wall (where the old bolt was) is easier than it looks...
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
JordanColquhoun 8 Sep TR
climb62 13 Aug Lead RP first of the grade. checked gear and moves on top rope then led. 1 session
with rich
first of the grade. checked gear and moves on top rope then led. 1 session
with rich
Dan Hale 9 Jul Lead O/S
Lewis Perrin Williams 9 Jul Lead β Saw some holds and placements on the ab down, technical and quite well protected climbing for the most part, very good route
Saw some holds and placements on the ab down, technical and quite well protected climbing for the most part, very good route
EmmaAtkinson 8 Jul TR dog
with Rory Brown
with Rory Brown
rachelpearce01 14 May 2nd Climbed it clean but didn’t really want the stress of trying to lead it today in the sun.
Climbed it clean but didn’t really want the stress of trying to lead it today in the sun.
George_Surf 14 May Lead O/S Sustained! Nearly came off before hitting the first break (crux for me, moving right a bit late?), micro wires are useful. Didn’t have the blue alien for the slot on the upper crux, so it’s 6a moves a good 4m above gear in the break, which was committing. Cluster of good small cams in the final break, then great positive climbing on edges to the top, really cool section. Felt e5 and would have been a bit steadier with the right gear. No chalk on the route, lots of hidden edges. Did look on the ab down to make sure it was safe enough, but didn’t have any actual beta.
Sustained! Nearly came off before hitting the first break (crux for me, moving right a bit late?), micro wires are useful. Didn’t have the blue alien for the slot on the upper crux, so it’s 6a moves a good 4m above gear in the break, which was committing. Cluster of good small cams in the final break, then great positive climbing on edges to the top, really cool section. Felt e5 and would have been a bit steadier with the right gear. No chalk on the route, lots of hidden edges. Did look on the ab down to make sure it was safe enough, but didn’t have any actual beta.
Hidden 6 May 2nd dog
ian d f 6 May Lead O/S
hugo glover 19 Apr Lead O/S Hot and hard work on the toes. Lovely climbing
with duncan
Hot and hard work on the toes. Lovely climbing
with duncan
Adam24B 30 Mar Lead β Abbed down the main bit of the cliff because of the tide. Had a little nosey at the gear because I forgot the RPs and my dad, since he was belaying, seemed a little on edge with this fact.
Abbed down the main bit of the cliff because of the tide. Had a little nosey at the gear because I forgot the RPs and my dad, since he was belaying, seemed a little on edge with this fact.
Sam Brown 1 Oct, 2018 Lead rpt
with Natalie Brown , Steve Quinton
with Natalie Brown , Steve Quinton
Sam Brown 19 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt
with Nat williams
with Nat williams
Sam Brown 18 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Nat williams
with Nat williams
Bob Ashcroft ?Jun, 2018 TR dog
with dec
with dec
jonny_098 22 May, 2018 2nd dog Really hard. Louie placed 20 bits of gear though!
with Louie, Dec
Really hard. Louie placed 20 bits of gear though!
with Louie, Dec
Jo sumner 4 Nov, 2017 2nd Sumner smash!!
Sumner smash!!
Hidden 4 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 30 Aug, 2017 Lead β Sneaky look on abseil. Very good. Hard top crux.
with dan parkes
Sneaky look on abseil. Very good. Hard top crux.
with dan parkes
GeoffG 8 Aug, 2017 TR
Hidden 1 Aug, 2017 TR O/S
alexbooker87 ?Aug, 2017 Lead dnf
with Beth Booker
with Beth Booker
GPN 7 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf Balls. Placed the crucial cam lower down and didn't fancy doing it without. Escaped up KC.
with net
Balls. Placed the crucial cam lower down and didn't fancy doing it without. Escaped up KC.
with net
irish paul 25 Jun, 2017 TR Wanted to check the kit - 2 tricky cruxes but alright climbing
Wanted to check the kit - 2 tricky cruxes but alright climbing
The Grist 1 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S Great lead by Tom. Felt OK to second. Two district crux sections. One easier but very run out. Possible ground fall from the top of this section? It would be close. The actual crux is well protected from gear below it. Fantastic route.
Great lead by Tom. Felt OK to second. Two district crux sections. One easier but very run out. Possible ground fall from the top of this section? It would be close. The actual crux is well protected from gear below it. Fantastic route.
nathanlee 30 May, 2017 Lead O/S Easier and better protected than I expected. Top runout is just awesome, yarding on incut brick edges
Easier and better protected than I expected. Top runout is just awesome, yarding on incut brick edges
HeatherF 30 May, 2017 2nd β
w.pettet-smith 21 Apr, 2017 Lead after several abseil inpections over several years!. miss read and pulled off a non hold approaching pre crux break. then fierce crux, great spacey top out
after several abseil inpections over several years!. miss read and pulled off a non hold approaching pre crux break. then fierce crux, great spacey top out
ferdia 16 Apr, 2017 Lead β an amazing experience. really my style. two hard sections and a runout to finish. the second crux was a bit more thought provoking than it might otherwise have been as I'd used my small cam lower down. I would also suggest that a small blue BD Camelot or equivalent is pretty crucial to protect the top runout. abbed in down the route, so flash.
with Tom Everett
an amazing experience. really my style. two hard sections and a runout to finish. the second crux was a bit more thought provoking than it might otherwise have been as I'd used my small cam lower down. I would also suggest that a small blue BD Camelot or equivalent is pretty crucial to protect the top runout. abbed in down the route, so flash.
with Tom Everett
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 16 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Pleased I waited around for this one. Really good route with a stiff crux linking the breaks.
with Roisin
Pleased I waited around for this one. Really good route with a stiff crux linking the breaks.
with Roisin
James Smith 31 Jul, 2016 Lead dnf Messed up what i assume is the crux and committed too far left into a dead-end. Fell off trying to reverse. Pretty disappointed...!
with geoff
Messed up what i assume is the crux and committed too far left into a dead-end. Fell off trying to reverse. Pretty disappointed...!
with geoff
Hidden 1 May, 2016 -
Hidden 6 Jun, 2015 TR
CharlieMack 11 May, 2015 TR O/S
with Donas
with Donas
tom jefferies 4 May, 2015 2nd dog
Hidden 4 May, 2015 Lead G/U
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
Ed Booth 26 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Anna Pugh
with Anna Pugh
Hidden 15 Jul, 2014 -
Patrick Hill 9 Jun, 2014 Lead dnf
with Dan Geh
with Dan Geh
will_benfold 31 May, 2014 2nd dog Rested at the crux
Rested at the crux
quiffhanger 31 May, 2014 Lead O/S Awesome fun. Top run-out is great - mega-intimidating but easy enough to enjoy. No chalk - proper hold search required.
Awesome fun. Top run-out is great - mega-intimidating but easy enough to enjoy. No chalk - proper hold search required.
Hidden 14 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Julian Cooper 16 Apr, 2014 Lead β
with Stuart Knott
with Stuart Knott
stuardo 16 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
Stefan_Morris 4 Apr, 2014 2nd
Ed morris 4 Apr, 2014 Lead rpt First E5 of the year. Rubbish greasy conditions, then rain on the top half. Pleased I tried hard and didn't give up, was worth it for the head wall.
with stefan
First E5 of the year. Rubbish greasy conditions, then rain on the top half. Pleased I tried hard and didn't give up, was worth it for the head wall.
with stefan
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Adam Booth 31 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 25 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf
with Sam Taylor
with Sam Taylor
Matt Harle 14 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S 2nd E5
2nd E5
lcullum7 13 Jun, 2013 2nd
Alex Mason 6 May, 2013 Lead O/S Tremendous. The blank headwall is a real cherry on top.
with Jemma Powell
Tremendous. The blank headwall is a real cherry on top.
with Jemma Powell
Keendan 4 May, 2013 Lead β Blasted through at the start of the day, so I didn't give myself time to get scared. Went wrong at the top (traversed too far left then up) but did the meat of the route and the crux.
with remus
Blasted through at the start of the day, so I didn't give myself time to get scared. Went wrong at the top (traversed too far left then up) but did the meat of the route and the crux.
with remus
Hidden 4 May, 2013 2nd rpt
yarrow 7 Jun, 2012 TR O/S
with Phil W
with Phil W
Dan Geh 7 Jun, 2012 TR O/S Never climbed anything at this grade before, felt more like 5c. Nice crimps most of the way.
Never climbed anything at this grade before, felt more like 5c. Nice crimps most of the way.
AMJ098 6 Jun, 2012 TR O/S Great climbing on good crimps.
Great climbing on good crimps.
Patrick Hill ?Jun, 2012 TR O/S
jacobjacob 26 May, 2012 Lead β Jake fell off the crux, then I lead the first half with his gear and beta and pushed on to the top.
Jake fell off the crux, then I lead the first half with his gear and beta and pushed on to the top.
jacobjlloyd 26 May, 2012 Lead dnf Missed the sequence and fell off the move to the last break, one move from success. Lowered off so Jacob could have a go. Really should have had it. Feet were absolute agony - need to wear friendlier shoes when its that hot!
Missed the sequence and fell off the move to the last break, one move from success. Lowered off so Jacob could have a go. Really should have had it. Feet were absolute agony - need to wear friendlier shoes when its that hot!
jacobjlloyd 26 May, 2012 2nd dog Not sure why i fell off this again. Really no reason to.
Not sure why i fell off this again. Really no reason to.
markalmack 7 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S Nearly fell off this one. first E5 onsight. Just enough gear (and it was good for a change). A few hard moves, one very hard move. top section was classic. 3*
with ctodd
Nearly fell off this one. first E5 onsight. Just enough gear (and it was good for a change). A few hard moves, one very hard move. top section was classic. 3*
with ctodd
Hidden 7 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
Adam Coles ?Apr, 2012 AltLd RP tried once on a top rope clean so led it.
tried once on a top rope clean so led it.
miastacey ?Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Bob Smith
with Bob Smith
Duncan Campbell 29 Jul, 2011 2nd Pretty steady with some thin moves up to the break... if you follow the continuation crack its desperate, I slinked off to the left where it is easier.
Pretty steady with some thin moves up to the break... if you follow the continuation crack its desperate, I slinked off to the left where it is easier.
AlexRenshaw 29 Jul, 2011 Lead
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
pipof747 29 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Glyn 29 Jun, 2011 Lead β Great climbing, plenty of beta (from all angles!) from Barni and Luke.
Great climbing, plenty of beta (from all angles!) from Barni and Luke.
barni 29 Jun, 2011 Lead β
Luke Brooks 28 Jun, 2011 Lead β
with Glyn Hudson, barni
with Glyn Hudson, barni
Hidden 29 Apr, 2011 Lead dnf
Ed morris 17 Sep, 2010 TR rpt
Hidden 12 Aug, 2010 Lead β
RobRock84 5 Aug, 2010 2nd dog
with Steve Quinton
with Steve Quinton
Ed morris 27 Jun, 2010 Lead dnf climbed clean to the half height break, couldnt get a decent rest to recover so lowered of. One more rockover and i could have had it, devastated.
with james
climbed clean to the half height break, couldnt get a decent rest to recover so lowered of. One more rockover and i could have had it, devastated.
with james
C coldwell-storry 25 Jun, 2009 Lead rpt
with George Ullrich
with George Ullrich
feilx 1 Nov, 2008 Lead RP Tried it once a couple of years ago, felt like a different route this time.
Tried it once a couple of years ago, felt like a different route this time.
jonnybull ?Aug, 2008 TR dog
with Alban
with Alban
thomasadixon 26 Jul, 2008 TR dog End of a long day and my tired partner point blank refused to second me on anything. Thought I'd have a go at Kitten Claws and unsurprisingly found this bloody hard. Two rests.
End of a long day and my tired partner point blank refused to second me on anything. Thought I'd have a go at Kitten Claws and unsurprisingly found this bloody hard. Two rests.
Chad123 4 May, 2008 AltLd dog Thought I was on Kitten Claws and not surprisingly found it fairly hard and scary!
Thought I was on Kitten Claws and not surprisingly found it fairly hard and scary!
dannyboy83 9 Feb, 2008 Lead β
with dmoir
with dmoir
Ram MkiV 27 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S Painful, hard and scary. Not my preferred style of climbing but enjoyable in hindsight.
with Dan
Painful, hard and scary. Not my preferred style of climbing but enjoyable in hindsight.
with Dan
Davros the Psyched ??, 2007 Lead O/S
feilx 18 Nov, 2006 Lead dog
with Sion
with Sion
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Bella 19 May, 2005 2nd
Adam Lincoln ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2004 Lead
al99 ?Aug, 2004 TR dog
with Alex Wainwright
with Alex Wainwright
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11 Jun, 2001 Lead O/S
with Viv
with Viv
Hidden 1 Jun, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2001 Lead
belay bunny turned bad ??, 2000 -
Jeff25 1 Sep, 1999 Lead RP Found it a bit cruxy at 2/3rds height but otherwise nice with relatively good small wire placements throughout
with Oliver
Found it a bit cruxy at 2/3rds height but otherwise nice with relatively good small wire placements throughout
with Oliver
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead O/S
wynaptomos ?Apr, 1989 Lead dog
Hidden 14 Jun, 1986 Lead
julesmckim ??, 1984 -
Hidden ??, 1980 -
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Voting
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Mid E6
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 21
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
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Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
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Alt Leads
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Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
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Not Set