Rockfax Description
Another majestic slab route with extremely sustained and fingery climbing. Start at the first crack right of Kitten Claws. Climb this to join Billy Spragg, then step right to follow the continuation crack and then directly up the wall above. © Rockfax

FA. C.Parkin, G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 1985 (with a bolt runner). FA. S.Monks 1990 (without bolt)

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Best slab climbs of the UK, The Best of Pembroke, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

James S 31/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Messed up what i assume is the crux and committed too far left into a dead-end. Fell off trying to reverse. Pretty disappointed...!

with geoff
Hidden 06/Jun/15 TR
CharlieMack 11/May/15 TR O/S
with Donas
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead G/U
tom jefferies 04/May/15 2nd dog
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Ed Booth 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Anna Pugh
guy757 15/Jul/14 -
Patrick Hill 09/Jun/14 Lead dnf
with Dan Geh
quiffhanger 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Awesome fun. Top run-out is great - mega-intimidating but easy enough to enjoy. No chalk - proper hold search required.

will_benfold 31/May/14 2nd dog

Rested at the crux

Hidden 14/May/14 Lead O/S
Julian Cooper 16/Apr/14 Lead β
with Stuart Knott
Ed morris 04/Apr/14 Lead rpt

First E5 of the year. Rubbish greasy conditions, then rain on the top half. Pleased I tried hard and didn't give up, was worth it for the head wall.

with stefan
Stefan_Morris 04/Apr/14 2nd
mike mo ??/2014 -
Adam Booth 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 25/Aug/13 Lead dnf
with Sam Taylor
Matt Harle 14/Jun/13 Lead O/S

2nd E5

lcullum7 13/Jun/13 2nd
Alex Mason 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Tremendous. The blank headwall is a real cherry on top.

with Jemma Powell
Keendan 04/May/13 Lead β

Blasted through at the start of the day, so I didn't give myself time to get scared. Went wrong at the top (traversed too far left then up) but did the meat of the route and the crux.

with Remus
remus 04/May/13 2nd rpt

Followed dan up this. Felt alright but pretty run out in places, especially topping out the thin first crack.

Dan Geh 07/Jun/12 TR O/S

Never climbed anything at this grade before, felt more like 5c. Nice crimps most of the way.

yarrow 07/Jun/12 TR O/S
with Phil W
AMJ098 06/Jun/12 TR O/S

Great climbing on good crimps.

Patrick Hill ?/Jun/12 TR O/S
jacobjacob 26/May/12 Lead β

Jake fell off the crux, then I lead the first half with his gear and beta and pushed on to the top.

jacobjlloyd 26/May/12 Lead dnf

Missed the sequence and fell off the move to the last break, one move from success. Lowered off so Jacob could have a go. Really should have had it. Feet were absolute agony - need to wear friendlier shoes when its that hot!

with Jacob
jacobjlloyd 26/May/12 2nd dog

Not sure why i fell off this again. Really no reason to.

with Jacob
markalmack 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Nearly fell off this one. first E5 onsight. Just enough gear (and it was good for a change). A few hard moves, one very hard move. top section was classic. 3*

Hidden 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Adam Coles ?/Apr/12 AltLd RP

tried once on a top rope clean so led it.

miastacey ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Bob Smith
Duncan Campbell 29/Jul/11 2nd

Pretty steady with some thin moves up to the break... if you follow the continuation crack its desperate, I slinked off to the left where it is easier.

AlexRenshaw 29/Jul/11 Lead
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Glyn 29/Jun/11 Lead β

Great climbing, plenty of beta (from all angles!) from Barni and Luke.

with Luke, Barni
barni 29/Jun/11 Lead β
pipof747 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 28/Jun/11 Lead β
with Glyn Hudson, Barni
remus 29/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Gibbered my way up to the break and got a really good rest there. Didnt want to commit to the next moves, though, so chickened out. Already had my share of scariness for the day. Another day.

Ed morris 17/Sep/10 TR rpt
with -martin
Hidden 12/Aug/10 Lead β
RobRock84 05/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Steve Quinton
Ed morris 27/Jun/10 Lead dnf

climbed clean to the half height break, couldnt get a decent rest to recover so lowered of. One more rockover and i could have had it, devastated.

with james
C coldwell-storry 25/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with George Ullrich
feilx 01/Nov/08 Lead RP

Tried it once a couple of years ago, felt like a different route this time.

with Floris
jonnybull ?/Aug/08 TR dog
with Alban
thomasadixon 26/Jul/08 TR dog

End of a long day and my tired partner point blank refused to second me on anything. Thought I'd have a go at Kitten Claws and unsurprisingly found this bloody hard. Two rests.

Chad123 04/May/08 AltLd dog

Thought I was on Kitten Claws and not surprisingly found it fairly hard and scary!

dannyboy83 09/Feb/08 Lead β
Ram MkiV 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Painful, hard and scary. Not my preferred style of climbing but enjoyable in hindsight.

with Dan
Davros the Psyched ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Adam
feilx 18/Nov/06 Lead dog
with Sion
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Bella 19/May/05 2nd
with Michael
al99 ?/Aug/04 TR dog
with Alex Wainwright
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Viv
Hidden 01/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
belay bunny turned bad ??/2000 -
Jeff25 01/Sep/99 Lead RP

Found it a bit cruxy at 2/3rds height but otherwise nice with relatively good small wire placements throughout

with Oliver
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Nick Dalzell
wynaptomos ?/Apr/89 Lead dog
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
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High E6
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High E5
Mid E5
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High E4
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High 6b
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High 5c
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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