Rockfax Description
II, 200m. A cracking single day hit.
1) 3c, 15m. Climb the short corner and traverse the grassy slope to reach some bolts.
2) 5a, 30m. The corner above and slightly to the right is awkward and grassy. The lower section is easier and leads to a large ledge (possible belay). Continue up the groove with less grass, but more difficulty, to reach a terrace and a bolt belay.
3) 4c, 20m. Step right and jam up the wide, slabby crack above then continue up the grassy ledges and follow the left-leaning groove to a peg belay directly underneath a corner.
4) 5b, 35m. Climb the corner (big cams useful, three pegs), which goes directly up, drifts left and then back right to a peg and bolt belay on top of a block. If you can jam you'll cruise it!
5) 5b, 40m. Step right and climb a short easy step before hand-jamming up a corner-crack just to right of the ridge crest. A snow picket is inexplicably jammed in it and serves as an excellent, if unusual, means of protection. From the top of the crack, traverse left onto the north side of the ridge along a ledge system and, after 5m, make an exposed step down (peg on the right wall) to a sloping ledge and possible belay. If you're not getting any rope drag, carry on up the groove for 10m then step left to a bolt belay on a ledge at the foot of another groove.
6) 4b, 40m. Carry on up the groove and exit it via a steep pull over a block. Traverse left for 3m and climb the flaked wall above to more broken ground. Climb this rightwards to the foot of a slab and reach the top of the slab via the corner on its left-hand side. The belay is on the crest of the ridge with commanding views of the Drus and Aiguille Verte.
7) 4a, 40m. Step right off the belay onto the south side of the ridge and climb the immaculate slab, staying just below the ridge crest the whole way. The climbing is easy and the situation outrageous. Just on the north side of the ridge, 5m before the slab meets a steep wall, is a bolt belay that is tricky to spot. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5 pitch Granite route. F5b obligatory. The finish is near the top station of the Bochard lift station. Lots of pegs in-situ, bring a light rack.

Roland Ravanel 1976.

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , Alps 2023 , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range

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