5 pitches.
Pitch 1 and 2 bolted, Pitch 3, 4 and 5, natural gear and tat. We have decided that although never harder than British 3c (VDiff grade) due to the horrendous nature of the rock and the gear you get to place throughout the route it should be XS. The amount of rubble we dislodged and threw off was uncountable and sizable at times, the amount of times footholds wobbled or snapped or the handhold you touched moved with same pressure as a butterflies wings, is what makes this route so bad. Your gear is never good enough to take a fall on, that’s if you can get any, and that’s if it stay in long enough.
TOPO-Voie du Dodo
Above is the traverse line in black to left of Voie du Korbe. Please don’t attempt this route, it’s awful, and dangerous, and there are much better climbs on the face…see above.
Pitch 1 (5b)- As for Voie Du Korbe (above)
Pitch 2 (5a)- As for Voie Du Korbe (above)
Pitch 3 – From the belay chain, traverse directly left, over a small hump of rock and onto a loose teetering pile of slabby choss, one you’ve traversed you will find a black sling around a flake, BEWARE everything else in the corner bar the slung flake is awfully loose. Step around the corner and underneath a tree (sling it, and extend it), step around the next corner and up on the a grassy ledge with a bomber thread (thank god) traverse this grassy ledge until you come across black tat and maillons. Belay here. Be careful that the boulders that look like part of the grassy ledge, are wobbly, step only on grass.
Pitch 4 – keep traversing the grass ledge for another 10m until a sound looking bit of rock appears above, don’t let how it looks deceive you, it is as loose as everything else. Follow it up until a super awkward mantle move brings you to a rightwards rising corner, follow this up a few steps (where you will find the only bomber nut on the whole route). Near this nut try and make a belay. Mine consisted of the bomber nut, 2 wobbly-ish cams and another nut that I would rate 5/10.
Picth 5 – This is alas where we gave up, although after looking back at it, you could just above see the Grande Vire with a large tree on the ledge, if you had the balls to spend time on a horrendous belay or move together you could get to the Grande Vire and link it up with one of the bolted routes. Anyway from the poor gear belay, move up on easy ledges that rise towards the right, I followed this for approximately 30m found no gear and defiantly nowhere to build another belay it’s here with 30m of rope between me and a shocking belay we decided we where flogging a dead horse. The line you could take was about 20m right of your gear belay there is a faint gully which you could possibly follow up the tree on the Grande Vire.
Find pictures at...
http://kateedhouse.wordpress.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=207&action=edit&message=6&postpost=v2
TOPO-Voie du Dodo
Above is the traverse line in black to left of Voie du Korbe. Please don’t attempt this route, it’s awful, and dangerous, and there are much better climbs on the face…see above.
Pitch 1 (5b)- As for Voie Du Korbe (above)
Pitch 2 (5a)- As for Voie Du Korbe (above)
Pitch 3 – From the belay chain, traverse directly left, over a small hump of rock and onto a loose teetering pile of slabby choss, one you’ve traversed you will find a black sling around a flake, BEWARE everything else in the corner bar the slung flake is awfully loose. Step around the corner and underneath a tree (sling it, and extend it), step around the next corner and up on the a grassy ledge with a bomber thread (thank god) traverse this grassy ledge until you come across black tat and maillons. Belay here. Be careful that the boulders that look like part of the grassy ledge, are wobbly, step only on grass.
Pitch 4 – keep traversing the grass ledge for another 10m until a sound looking bit of rock appears above, don’t let how it looks deceive you, it is as loose as everything else. Follow it up until a super awkward mantle move brings you to a rightwards rising corner, follow this up a few steps (where you will find the only bomber nut on the whole route). Near this nut try and make a belay. Mine consisted of the bomber nut, 2 wobbly-ish cams and another nut that I would rate 5/10.
Picth 5 – This is alas where we gave up, although after looking back at it, you could just above see the Grande Vire with a large tree on the ledge, if you had the balls to spend time on a horrendous belay or move together you could get to the Grande Vire and link it up with one of the bolted routes. Anyway from the poor gear belay, move up on easy ledges that rise towards the right, I followed this for approximately 30m found no gear and defiantly nowhere to build another belay it’s here with 30m of rope between me and a shocking belay we decided we where flogging a dead horse. The line you could take was about 20m right of your gear belay there is a faint gully which you could possibly follow up the tree on the Grande Vire.
Find pictures at...
http://kateedhouse.wordpress.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=207&action=edit&message=6&postpost=v2
Kate Edhouse and Jake Parrish 16/Aug/2013.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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