UKC

48m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route on superb rock formations with steep climbing.
1) 5b, 35m. From the ledge belay, step left to gain the crack-line steeply. Follow this upwards on great rock to a small depression. Pull steeply up left past a fixed thread, to gain the grassy ledge.
2) 5a, 20m. Climb the corner above then move left around the arete and climb direct carefully. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A steep route up the left side of Madman's Point

FA. P.Donnithorne, J.Hornsby 05/Oct/2003.

Ticklists

2019 all-rounder Psyche list , 50 Extemes at 50

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User Date Notes
duncan 3 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Quite loose at the top of the south face abseil to the non-tidal ledge. Consider abseiling down west face (line of Madman’s Crack) if there are teams on The Gong and sea state allows. 50m rope just reaches the beach with a long rigging sling on the anchors.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite loose at the top of the south face abseil to the non-tidal ledge. Consider abseiling down west face (line of Madman’s Crack) if there are teams on The Gong and sea state allows. 50m rope just reaches the beach with a long rigging sling on the anchors.
james.slater 15 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 50m rope just about reaches the belay ledge at sea level. Redirected with a cam below the gong.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 50m rope just about reaches the belay ledge at sea level. Redirected with a cam below the gong.

Logged Ascents

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 25
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Chimnastics

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Mewsford Arches)

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