UKC

120m, 5 pitches. Approach this climb directly from the campsite on the south side of Hogsback. This section is called Hogwild. The route is labelled by many guidebooks as 5 pitches however several of the pitches can be linked together. Many people will simply climb the first 3/4 pitches and then rappel on bolted anchors. The last pitch is loose but the reward for summiting is an epic view of the main wall.

1) 5.6 slab with very thing gear. If you are not comfortable leading on micro-nuts you can scramble up 4th class to the big ledge at the top of this pitch where you can setup a top rope using the bolted anchors.
2) The first few moves feel committing as the first bolt is above this section, however as is common with other Lover's Leaps climb, you can make this section easier by climbing slightly left and then traversing in on the famous leap dikes.
3) This is the crux pitch. The distance up to the first bolt can be intimidating however the climbing is fairly straight forward. Continue up and belay from the hanging stance

3b) A variation to this climb is to move left at the start of pitch 3 and go up the 5.6 corner. The rock is not as clean but it feels more secure if you are not comfortable with the 5.8 roof.

4) continue up the crack and over several bulges with good gear.
5) lose to the top.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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High 5.9
Mid 5.9
Low 5.9
High 5.8
Mid 5.8
Low 5.8
High 5.7
Mid 5.7
Low 5.7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Regular Route

Grade: 5.8 ***
(Phantom Spires)

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