65m, 3 pitches.
The SMC guide indicates this route may be more adventurous than technically difficult, but then its an 8km approach over moorland with a 75m abseil, so that much is obvious!
1) 15m. Climb to a ledge on the left, then go straight up right to a grassy patch and belay.
2) 20m. Climb up left along a gangway to a groove, then continue to a terrace at the foot of a wall.
3) 20m 4b. Climb the wall (crux), passing a poised flake, to a ledge. Traverse left and climb a crack continuing up to the shoulder.
4) 10m. Go along the ridge and climb a loose wall to the summit block.
Descent is by abseil from the summit by two abseils.
1) 15m. Climb to a ledge on the left, then go straight up right to a grassy patch and belay.
2) 20m. Climb up left along a gangway to a groove, then continue to a terrace at the foot of a wall.
3) 20m 4b. Climb the wall (crux), passing a poised flake, to a ledge. Traverse left and climb a crack continuing up to the shoulder.
4) 10m. Go along the ridge and climb a loose wall to the summit block.
Descent is by abseil from the summit by two abseils.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| arkitrekker | 26 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: A memorable day but one that I am not likely to repeat. Approach via 75m ab down the more easily angled wall on your left as you stand facing the stack. You can ab directly facing the stack but this will be mostly free hanging, making re-ascent more tiring. There are good block anchors with supplementary wires and friends. p1 and p4 are short formalities. p2 starts on soft black rock that you don't want to pull on too hard and gear is probably not reliable, it then progresses to easy-angled complete choss with no protection. Good belay at the base of the steep upper wall. p3 is steep and on better rock but still with the odd loose bit. It has an awkward mantelshelf and relies heavily on a flake that surely will not be there much longer. Good rope management necessary as it zig-zags. p4 is easy angled and loose. Descent in two 35m abs. 1st is a sling around a summit block. Care required not to dislodge loose stuff, although there is a slight protective overhang at the p2 belay. Second ab uses the p2 belay (we left a wire 1 + wire 5, plus spike) | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: A memorable day but one that I am not likely to repeat. Approach via 75m ab down the more easily angled wall on your left as you stand facing the stack. You can ab directly facing the stack but this will be mostly free hanging, making re-ascent more tiring. There are good block anchors with supplementary wires and friends. p1 and p4 are short formalities. p2 starts on soft black rock that you don't want to pull on too hard and gear is probably not reliable, it then progresses to easy-angled complete choss with no protection. Good belay at the base of the steep upper wall. p3 is steep and on better rock but still with the odd loose bit. It has an awkward mantelshelf and relies heavily on a flake that surely will not be there much longer. Good rope management necessary as it zig-zags. p4 is easy angled and loose. Descent in two 35m abs. 1st is a sling around a summit block. Care required not to dislodge loose stuff, although there is a slight protective overhang at the p2 belay. Second ab uses the p2 belay (we left a wire 1 + wire 5, plus spike) |
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Route of Interest
Jailbreak
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