UKC

125m, 4 pitches. Begin just left of the toe of the ridge below a short corner. P1: Climb the corner (5.4) to a flat ledge with a bolt. Climb easily to a bolt in a white rock band and continue to a third bolt, then finish up a short crack to a nice belay ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 145ft. P2: Climb past 3 bolts on the narrow ridge, passing a smearing crux (5.4) above a second bolt, to a 2 bolt anchor at a good stance 130ft. P3: Scramble up the easy ridge to the left past a bolt to a 2 bolt anchor 140ft. Descent: From the 5 pitons/bolts look into a gap with a keyhole and locate a 4 bolt rappel anchor above the gaping hole. Belay down an easy but exposed rib to the anchors. Make a 185ft free rappel from the keyhole window to the ground on the south side of the formation and east of Looking Glass Rock. Guidebook says you need 60m ropes - this is debatable, 50m should be fine.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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