180m, 7 pitches. 5a, 4a, 4b, 5b, 4b, 3, 4a

The name tag is placed 5 m to the left of the real start of the route. Sparsely bolted. Easy to go off route on the third pitch because no bolts can be seen up the right traversing ramp while a bolted crack pitch above (F5c) will lead you to Watersong (F6a+). After the first chimney the route is bolted no more and the most common exit is actually left via "Gornja varijanta".

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UserDateNotes
lithos 28 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Last pitch, after dropping down for about 5m goes up an obvious gully with huge chockstone and no bolts
βeta?
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βeta: Last pitch, after dropping down for about 5m goes up an obvious gully with huge chockstone and no bolts
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Neil D 21 Oct, 2019 Lead O/S
with Betha.
with Betha.
DaveWhite13 17 Oct, 2019 Lead O/S Not entirely sure we climbed this went off piste near the top did a lovely bolted 5b additional top pitch. Very much mixed climbing. Wouldn't recommend if 5a was ur limit. 4th pitch chimney was hilarious
with The Wife
Not entirely sure we climbed this went off piste near the top did a lovely bolted 5b additional top pitch. Very much mixed climbing. Wouldn't recommend if 5a was ur limit. 4th pitch chimney was hilarious
with The Wife
HP9 11 Oct, 2019 AltLd Nice route. Not sure why it gets 5a, when theres a 5b / 5c chimney (albeit a short one). Did both finishes.
with Michelle Foote
Nice route. Not sure why it gets 5a, when theres a 5b / 5c chimney (albeit a short one). Did both finishes.
with Michelle Foote
lithos 27 Sep, 2019 AltLd Chimney pitch was fun I think I ran 2 together.
with Crofty
Chimney pitch was fun I think I ran 2 together.
with Crofty
Crofty 27 Sep, 2019 AltLd O/S Did a 5c variant on the 3rd pitch.
with lithos
Did a 5c variant on the 3rd pitch.
with lithos
Win-yei 22 Aug, 2019 AltLd Think we got lost. Ended up in a chimney for 55m with 8 bits of gear. Topped out several meters to the right of the actual route
Think we got lost. Ended up in a chimney for 55m with 8 bits of gear. Topped out several meters to the right of the actual route
Rob Morgan 22 Aug, 2019 AltLd We got lost after the 5b chimney pitch and ended up on much harder ground than we bargained for.
with Win-yei
We got lost after the 5b chimney pitch and ended up on much harder ground than we bargained for.
with Win-yei
Hidden 23 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Marko Duksi 23 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt The chimney pitch was wet so we chose the "Varijanta na Sjeverno rebro" and finished via "Sjeverno rebro".
with kirsten
The chimney pitch was wet so we chose the "Varijanta na Sjeverno rebro" and finished via "Sjeverno rebro".
with kirsten
kirsten 23 Jun, 2018 2nd Lower exit variant (4b) plus two finishing pitches of Sjeverno rebro (4b), cca 170 m total.
Lower exit variant (4b) plus two finishing pitches of Sjeverno rebro (4b), cca 170 m total.
Moritz L 3 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Couldnt find the start so did the first two pitches of water song. Good choice. Chimney pitch was great
Couldnt find the start so did the first two pitches of water song. Good choice. Chimney pitch was great
jellybean 14 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
with Luka Blazic, cmcg
with Luka Blazic, cmcg
sam.gillan 14 Sep, 2017 2nd
Hidden 14 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
cmcg 14 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S By-passed slow climbers on Water Song via this route. Started on the crux 5b chimney pitch.
with Luka Blazic, jellybean
By-passed slow climbers on Water Song via this route. Started on the crux 5b chimney pitch.
with Luka Blazic, jellybean
Hidden 16 Jul, 2017 Lead
Siobhan Vye 10 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with tprebs
with tprebs
tprebs 10 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Climbed the 4th pitch of watersong. Probably the best pitch on it!
Climbed the 4th pitch of watersong. Probably the best pitch on it!
meanderthal ?Apr, 2017 AltLd
Goran Glumac 25 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S Nice route
Nice route
krystian.kostecki ??, 2017 Lead O/S Pleasant route, good to warm up and feel the style of Paklenica climbing. Finished with some direct exit at about 6a, but with nice exposure and fully featured (takes slings/runners quite good). Memorable journey cause we meet Bernard Amy (famous alpinist) on this route, who was climbing with his wife, they even invited us to their home in France... Nothing more to say - - great company and wonderful peoples.
with Jan Kostecki, Paulina Kostecka
Pleasant route, good to warm up and feel the style of Paklenica climbing. Finished with some direct exit at about 6a, but with nice exposure and fully featured (takes slings/runners quite good). Memorable journey cause we meet Bernard Amy (famous alpinist) on this route, who was climbing with his wife, they even invited us to their home in France... Nothing more to say - - great company and wonderful peoples.
with Jan Kostecki, Paulina Kostecka
martin cesnik 29 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Mitko, ula
with Mitko, ula
Robb Bert 17 Oct, 2015 AltLd
John Nuttall 21 Sep, 2015 Lead
with Sharon
with Sharon
Elsier 30 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Koon
with Koon
proandras 23 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S I accidentally climbed out into the 4th pitch of the Watersong, after the second belay. Be aware, the shiny bolts right upward belong to the Watersong, this route goes somewhat less steep toward the big chimney. Check the newest (2013) guidebook.
I accidentally climbed out into the 4th pitch of the Watersong, after the second belay. Be aware, the shiny bolts right upward belong to the Watersong, this route goes somewhat less steep toward the big chimney. Check the newest (2013) guidebook.
Marko Duksi 7 Jun, 2012 Lead Exit via the most popular variant "Gornja varianta".
with kirsten
Exit via the most popular variant "Gornja varianta".
with kirsten
kirsten 7 Jun, 2012 -
Hidden 6 May, 2011 AltLd
Marko Duksi 9 Oct, 2010 Lead rpt The original route. Last three pitches (onsight) are not bolted and feel harder than the guidebook grades suggest.
with Goran Žauhar
The original route. Last three pitches (onsight) are not bolted and feel harder than the guidebook grades suggest.
with Goran Žauhar
tjekel ??, 2006 -
tjekel ??, 1996 -
Voting
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set