Rockfax Description
12m. The continuation provides a fitting finale - low in the grade but awkward enough to keep you working. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of Brimhams best known classics, its first recorded extreme . Follow the twin cracks of Frensis to the overhang, then move left and tackle the bulging crack. Brilliant.

Allan Austin 14/Apr/1957

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Allan Austin Classics, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven..

ez does it 02/Dec/17 Lead RP

Slowly executed start made a lower off and rest essential. Or at least I though, I was one easy move away from a rest. Need more gusto next time

with Joe
Hidden 31/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Tom.Priestley 31/Oct/17 2nd rpt
freudy_love 17/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Captain Solo 17/Oct/17 2nd
with Paul
mrteale 07/Oct/17 2nd O/S
with DanOsb
PatrickRT 18/Aug/17 Lead dog
with OLGrady
OLGrady 18/Aug/17 2nd
Tom_Shill 13/Aug/17 Lead

Got on it straight from the car, got pumped, dropped out of the crack, topped out, then came back and got it clean at the end of the day!

Stoney Boy 13/Aug/17 Lead β
with Clare Reading
Hidden 13/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe 13/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/17 Lead G/U
scottcoates 09/Aug/17 Lead β
with Rob
LMS 18/Jul/17 2nd dog

really tough.. need to get better at jamming!!

climberchristy 18/Jul/17 Lead rpt

As good as ever! Top dirty (as ever!)

with LMS
rach21756 ?/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Luke Jones 13/Jun/17 2nd
Rafal Malczyk 27/May/17 2nd O/S
mr random 27/May/17 2nd O/S
Katsmiff 27/May/17 Lead O/S

Substained pump.

with Bernie Sosin, Rafal Malczyk
Kelsey 24/May/17 Lead dog

Fell on the last move - need to come back

with James
JayAyBee 24/May/17 Lead β

Nuala tried it first, led it on her gear as I couldn't be bothered stripping it. Great climbing.

with Nuala
OLGrady 11/Apr/17 Lead
with I Walton
tunnah 18/Feb/17 2nd dog
Tom.Priestley 18/Feb/17 TR dog

Foot slipped at the top, thought it wasn't TOO bad

CMoore 18/Feb/17 Lead O/S

hard moves to top out were quite green/damp

with tunnah
Sam Hill 29/Jan/17 2nd dnf
nuts and bolts ??/2017 -
cindylmy 29/Dec/16 2nd dog

Not sure why I had been persuaded to come climbing on one of the coldest days in Dec, but with the help of crack gloves, I managed to get some proper jams in and completed the climb!

TomatoPro 29/Dec/16 Lead RP

Really cool, much nicer in the light. Cindy seconded, Ralph and fam came to watch!

with Cindy
charley 18/Dec/16 Lead

Didn't have a guidebook but it was the first route we came to that didn't look 'too' wet. Had a bit of an epic on it. Got to the top section and realised that I placed the gear I needed, right at the bottom so down-climbed to retrieve it. Got back to the crux section to find nothing but a green, wet & slimy mess. Even the good pocket was horrible. It didn't go too well although once cleaned up a bit, managed to do the moves. I imagine it's a nice route in better conditions.

with Jack
Ardo 23/Oct/16 Lead β

Supersport on Deacon's gear

deacondeacon 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Nice route. Not hard but a little awkward.

spragglerocks 02/Oct/16 2nd RP

Having earlier backed off the VS on lead, sent Andy up the E1 to get my gear back. Managed it clean on the blunt end.

with Andy
Hidden 19/Sep/16 Lead dnf
David Chase 01/Sep/16 2nd dog
with Ben Hirst
clarendon 16/Jul/16 2nd dog
with Tris
topsyturvy 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S

not my finest hour but got there eventually.

with Mike P
Ste Ridd 06/Jul/16 2nd
shaun hunt 06/Jul/16 -
Hidden 06/Jul/16 -
mikecollins 06/Jul/16 Lead dog
broganhume 26/Jun/16 2nd
with Dave Hosier
DaveHo 26/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Brogan H
OLGrady 18/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with L Lavell
Hidden 09/May/16 Lead O/S
Mike Todd 17/Apr/16 Lead dog

Why do I find this route so hard?!!

AC1 ??/2016 -
gateaublaster 17/Oct/15 TR dog

After attempting the lead and taking my first real lead fall backed off and top roped to collect my gear.. Will come back to try this again

with soph
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Jono_LS16 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Droyd 08/Sep/15 Lead dog

Blocked the crucial jam with gear, bad strats

with Chris Marsden
Rhi Rhi 16/Aug/15 2nd


with Shellj1
JendeHoxar 16/Aug/15 Lead dog
Didymus 12/Aug/15 2nd dog
1poundSOCKS 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Quality route. I didn't find the top section much harder than the VS start, but that probably depends if you can find the holds quickly enough, they are all there, no need to thrutch and no requirement for offwidth skills!!!

Rachel Slater 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd
OLGrady 24/Jun/15 2nd
Alpenglow 24/Jun/15 2nd dog

One rest. Easier when you know the sequence. Pretty pumpy though.

The Reaper 30/May/15 Lead dog

Dogged to death. Very sequency and not the best warm up.

cpforbes 10/May/15 2nd dog
Gabe Oliver 10/May/15 Lead O/S

A classic grit battle in the top crack.

Hidden 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Razza 10/Apr/15 2nd dog
Adamski1986 21/Feb/15 2nd
Tim Rodgers 21/Feb/15 Lead
Callum Smith ?/Jan/15 2nd
jimorothy 16/Nov/14 2nd

I say second... but actually Scott led Frensis and I could not, despite several million efforts, finish that traverse/reach/mantelshelf - fact that it was very wet and slimy might not have helped. So the E1 direct with rope above was the softer option, which went fine, but then I had a rope above. Tempted to have a look at the lead now.

with Scott Barnett
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Wizzy 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Had to fight for this! Not really my bag

erkershaw 16/Aug/14 2nd
Jonathan Richardson 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Sam, Emma Kershaw
CragDog 09/Aug/14 Lead RP
Calum Wadsworth 06/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Worthy of its three stars, great route and brilliant peotection.

with Ruairidh Wadsworth, Phillip Wadsworth
Hidden 07/Jul/14 Lead dog
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 06/Jul/14 Lead RP

dogged it first

watson23 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S
kyaizawa 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Not sure what all the fuss is about... thought it was pretty soft at E1. A combination of a pinch, slopers and crimps after the hand jam, high feet and no thrutching involved...

Emma Reynolds 24/Jun/14 2nd
Climbster 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 14/Jun/14 Lead G/U

Have wanted to try this for ages and its excellent, managed to work out a good sequence so the top wasn't a complete thrutch!

with Matt
Ed carrigan 19/May/14 Lead
Olli-C 17/May/14 Lead dnf

Took a winger from the top, Swanny finished it for me.

with Swanny, Chris Waddle
Hidden 16/May/14 Lead O/S
Mike Todd 08/Apr/14 Lead dog


with Harrogate MC
peterhubbard 30/Mar/14 2nd
with Conrad
oread 22/Mar/14 Lead O/S

First E1 (Onsighted!)

nick ferro 09/Mar/14 Lead
with Oli Birkill
Nez ??/2014 -
andrewcoultherd 17/Oct/13 Lead dnf

couldnt jam as easily as i thought id be able to. Had a rest and decided to go for the easy traverse instead of the E1 but arms too pumped to make the top of the shelf. Good route though if I was better at climbing.

with Kieran
ladymuck 28/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/13 2nd dog
pebbles 31/Aug/13 Lead dog

ran out of pasty, boo! climbed up, got stupidly pumped fiddling too long with thread, decided to downclimb to rest but arms melted and slumped on rope at very last minute. pulled rope after rest, tried again but still ended up sitting on rope before finally figuring the crux out. oh well. next time ....

with poppy, ali
climberchristy 31/Aug/13 Lead rpt

A fine route. Done a few years ago. Easier now.

with Keith Swainson
Hidden 31/Aug/13 2nd
FragOcon 13/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S
SMThompson1 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S

A great E1 with positive holds. This is definitely on my wish list for my first E1 lead.

with John Burrow
adamwesthead 28/Jun/13 Lead dog

First onsite E1 for 12 years even though it was dogged whilst arranging gear at the top

with Zeb
zebster 28/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Adam
David_Gledson 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Alan
Hidden 04/Jun/13 2nd
RossT 25/May/13 2nd
with Andrew Edwards
Longsufferingropeholder ?/May/13 Lead
with C May
C May ?/May/13 2nd
with Tim
kmaxwell 26/Apr/13 2nd
lanky and weak 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Katie
pebbles 21/Apr/13 2nd
with paul s
henry peter jenkins 07/Apr/13 Lead

nice route. tried this a while back on top rope and couldnt do it (with mark) then went back to lead it about a year later and kept falling of on to a nut (tom,gaz,emilio) now a couple of years later got the retro flash. put to bed!

with robbie jenkins
bwestwood 21/Feb/13 Lead
pie_eater_pete 21/Feb/13 2nd rpt
with bwestwood
mark sadler ??/2013 Lead
with rob
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead β
climbingpixie 21/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Got up it cleanly but only just!

with Andy
PaulHermes 07/Oct/12 2nd
with Tibor
minT(HUN) 07/Oct/12 Lead dog
with PaulHermes
petekeron 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Steve Brock
Andrew Wilson 03/Jul/12 Lead O/S
betamonkey 03/Jul/12 2nd dog

Andy led Frensis. Tried to second up the Direct finish

Freshprintce 29/May/12 Lead
with Mike Hewitt
Matt Harle 20/May/12 Lead O/S
Mattyk 12/May/12 Lead β

Finally.. no idea what all the fuss is about once your foot is up its not to bad. very pleased!

with John Marsham
egg-man 01/Apr/12 Lead dnf

Two falls from crux before submission.

with Chris Vernon
Hidden ?/Mar/12 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2012 -
robertmctague ??/2012 Lead
mikekeswick ??/2012 -
Hidden 19/Nov/11 Lead dog
elCapitano 30/Oct/11 Lead dog

Wet. Green. Horrendously pumpy.

with Coatesy
Richard P Coates 30/Oct/11 2nd dog
Hidden 22/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 22/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead
chrishedgehog 05/Jul/11 Lead dog

One minor indiscretion at exactly the same point when everyone else goes...

with Kieran Myles
theotherpetehill 03/Jul/11 Lead

This was a yo-yo - Andy led to the crux, placed all gear, got pumped and came down. I tied on and climbed up and through the crux.

with Andy Harper
Simonj 22/Jun/11 Lead dog
with jim
Jimmy1976 22/Jun/11 2nd dog

Total cock up of first part, pumped and rested on rope. Rested again just before the E1 top part.

with Simon
Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead dog
Dafydd Llywelyn 14/Jun/11 2nd
with Jamie
Tony Holdsworth 09/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Dan McKinlay
ewan i 02/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead RP
MeMeMe 04/May/11 Lead

Retro flash - I think I seconded this years ago when some random's second couldn't get up it.

with Katie
bencole 02/May/11 2nd

First day out with Christy, pumpy!

Hidden 15/Apr/11 Lead
coombsy 07/Apr/11 Lead β
with Danny C
andy mcc 02/Apr/11 2nd
with Rich Connors
Tom Keaveny 29/Mar/11 2nd dog
with Olly
ollyroberts 29/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Matty
PaulTanton 21/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/11 2nd
Anthony Dixon 09/Mar/11 Lead dog
joshen 06/Mar/11 Lead dnf
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
disturbed_one51 20/Nov/10 Lead

great route, shame that the top is scarily green and slimey in novemeber

with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 20/Nov/10 2nd
Hidden 20/Oct/10 2nd
rockrat 20/Oct/10 Lead
Graeme Hammond 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S

The final roof felt hard at the end of the day but after several climbs up and down climbs and almost falling off determination paid off! (after finding the right hold) fantastic lower crack too. Abseiled down so Jim could lead

with Jim
Jim Slater 12/Sep/10 Lead dog

Frigged the top moves..arms bolloxed..thought it was going be an easy E1 tick...I was mistaken!

Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd rpt
knicos 04/Sep/10 Lead
cobweb 29/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Roger Waterworth
Martin Haworth 21/Aug/10 Lead

On Tony's gear.

with Tony
shouter 03/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/10 Lead β
GrantB 20/Jun/10 2nd
jkarran 20/Jun/10 Lead

Ground up after some sort of pathetic failure on the initial crack and a fall from the top years ago.

with Grant, Pete
mattyork2 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Great day out with Peter!

petellis 02/Jun/10 2nd rpt
Tez29 24/May/10 2nd β

Hard for the grade

with Ivan
JohnAI 23/May/10 2nd
Ewan Russell 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with John Imrie, Dan Roberts
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Apr/10 2nd
markalmack 27/Mar/10 Lead rpt

i would like to say retro flash

with anna baker
Andy Graham ??/2010 Lead rpt
PeteH 12/Dec/09 Lead O/S

Last few moves green - made it a bit interesting :) Bomber gear though.

NaomiHart 12/Dec/09 2nd dog

Only one rest almost at the top to sort out frozen fingers! Lovely route though - great laybacks up the grooves

Hidden 15/Sep/09 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Sep/09 2nd
Alex Winter 04/Sep/09 Lead
lithos 29/May/09 Lead β

2nded 10 years ago - so a retro flash, intriguing top crack and great hexs ! Didnt remember any of it other than the pump !

pebbles 29/May/09 2nd dog

ooh that top out is hard

with rob
Peter Holder 25/May/09 Lead β
with Adam Rawlings
jimdanson 11/May/09 2nd
with Bob Curry
Hidden 22/Apr/09 2nd
Katie Marshall 22/Apr/09 2nd
with Pete Mac, Tuze
duzinga 22/Apr/09 Lead
with Pete and Katie
Rich Thornton ?/Apr/09 TR rpt
with Andy Roberts, Fiona Mingay, Sam Davison-Webb, James Harland
Hidden 21/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead dog
Will Hunt 05/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Completely desperate at the top. Everything slopes!

with Xavier Nuttall
mike fenwick ?/Sep/08 Lead
with Rich johnson
Rich Kawecki 30/Jul/08 TR dog

pulled up on rope past crux, top crack

with Chris Wilson
IanJackson 27/Jun/08 Lead
with Peter
petellis 17/Jun/08 2nd rpt
GrantB 17/Jun/08 Lead
PaulHermes 15/Jun/08 2nd
with Stewart VCCC
betamonkey 20/May/08 2nd dog
with Jonny Baker
Rich Thornton ?/May/08 TR RP
with Fiona Mingay, James Harland
Hidden 30/Apr/08 2nd
Jack00 29/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Good rest out to the right on the ledge. Gather yourself, then go for it!

with Shaun L
howlingbaboon 19/Mar/08 2nd dog

numb fingers

with Crofty and Guido
Alex Mason 18/Mar/08 Lead O/S

proper good gritstone

with Mike Pike
dazbarker 27/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Howie
Hidden 27/Jan/08 2nd
Andrew1 27/Jan/08 Lead
clive-greenwood ??/2008 2nd
with Holly
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead rpt
IanJackson 06/Nov/07 2nd rpt
with ShaunL
Hidden 04/Oct/07 2nd
joe larner 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Chad123 16/Sep/07 Lead dnf

Fine all the way to the top then kept slipping off last holds due to heavy rain - bailed up normal route!

with Rik
Adam1973 17/Aug/07 2nd
IanJackson 17/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Adam
mje1398 11/Aug/07 2nd dog
with John M
Hidden 06/Apr/07 2nd dog
Andy Ray 17/Mar/07 2nd dog

A pretty poor attempt on my part.

with Sam Walters
Nick Beckett 03/Jan/07 Lead
nickwhimster ??/2007 Lead dog
with Steve Hodgeson
Kevster ??/2007 -
Ram MkiV 04/Sep/06 Lead

Failed on this years ago possibly attempting it as a first E1 - a bad choice! (I rested on the rope at the thread without really understanding that it was illegitimate tactics.) Finally laid to rest 4(?) yrs on.

with Dan and Nick
Luke Brooks 08/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Alexander
DavidR 02/Jul/06 Lead dog
with Holly Adamthwaite & Matt Hopkinson
Different Steve 17/Jun/06 2nd dog
alicia 10/May/06 Lead O/S

My first E1! great climb, worth the stars

with Ali K
King Rat ??/2006 2nd O/S
with A
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 18/May/05 2nd O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2005 -
vertical worm ??/2005 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Nov/04 Lead O/S
Rich Guest ?/May/04 Lead

Seconded early in career and subsequently took 3 attempts to free. Top (E1)section can be baffling onsight and stops folk. All straightforward after experience though... (no shit sherlock!)

Hidden ?/May/04 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead dog
shoulders 26/Jun/03 Lead
with dave
pezzerrr 25/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 2nd dog
Scottish78 14/Aug/02 Lead dog
with Fiona G
Hidden 19/Jun/02 Lead β
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead
adam carless ?/Jun/02 2nd O/S
craig h ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 29/Aug/99 2nd
Bug ??/1999 -
Russell Lovett 18/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with andrew haigh
Tenko 06/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Dave Allen
John Southworth 25/Aug/97 Lead O/S
andrew300169 17/Aug/97 Lead dog

Just couldn't commit to the crux

with Pom
nai 17/Aug/97 Solo
with Cal
Hidden 28/May/97 Lead O/S
SR1970 ?/Jun/96 Lead O/S
uphillnow 13/May/96 Lead

also with g exley and joe

with Mark Gray
rob.grafton 05/Sep/95 2nd
with Bruce
Tom V 30/Apr/95 -
rob.grafton 12/Mar/95 Lead
with Bruce
Dave Turnbull 17/Jul/94 Lead
with Jane Turnbull
roncaves 04/Jun/94 Lead dnf
with Ian Smith
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
Mick King 29/Jul/93 Lead
with Simon Walsh
Chris Reid ?/Mar/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/92 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/92 Lead dog
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1992 Lead
with Unsure
crossleysm ??/1992 Solo
Rich Kirby 06/Oct/91 Lead O/S
with Luke
Roget 13/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
kato'sdad 11/Aug/91 Lead
with Jerry Mattinson
leathers ?/Jun/91 2nd
with James Thomas
Steve Crowe 08/Oct/90 Lead O/S
with Alec Burns
Hidden 02/Aug/90 Lead O/S
malc 15/Jul/90 2nd dog
with T Higgins
Pete Pozman 24/Apr/90 Lead rpt
with John Byrne
PaulTanton ?/Feb/90 Lead O/S
with Toby Briggs
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 Lead
Nick Rundall ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Dad
Seymore Butt ??/1990 Lead
with Spuz
Pete Pozman 13/Sep/89 2nd O/S
with John Byrne
babymoac 02/Oct/85 Lead dog
with Bob Hunter
Bullybones ??/1985 Lead
Hidden 27/May/82 AltLd
mikej 28/Aug/73 TR
with John Bickerdike
Dave Musgrove 10/Jun/73 Lead
with Bob Knapton
Hidden ??/1973 2nd
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Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 45
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Votes cast 43
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Style of ascent
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