Rockfax Description
18m. Wandering but worthwhile and doesn't have the teeth you might expect. Climb round the flake and follow the cracks rightwards into the groove of Central Route. Up this, then follow the ledge back left and finish delicately up the slab (tiny wires). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Working round/past the flake at the bottom of the climb comprises the crux section. Working up the crack with good hand jams gives the route a satisfying feel. Eases off at the overlap with central climb (S) which allows for a placement before a tricky traverse (good feet on ledge, hands used for balance on blank slab) to a large pocket, which takes a small wire, use smeary feet to bridge onto the fluting to the right to reach hidden jug on the arete to the right at head height to finish.

Anti-faff 17/Oct Lead O/S

The start was just about HVS for me but perhaps made a meal of it, a fab route though, 3* ledge shufflin'.

with Nick
Hidden 18/Apr Lead O/S
Will Hunt 18/Apr 2nd O/S
tsjx 18/Apr 2nd
with John Mc
Marq 17/May/16 Lead rpt

Not in great style to start with but felt good on the top slab

Hidden 17/May/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/15 2nd
Jamesmoly 19/Jun/15 Lead O/S

gladys 02/Jun/15 2nd
BnB 20/May/15 -
Wizzy 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Tough for VS, but not sustained enough for HVS. 3 stars!!

lloydrees91 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 16/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Steve M
SteveM 16/Jun/14 2nd
ralphio 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Felt more like HVS to me. Quite powerful and technical moves early on and top slab very exposed. Extremely glad of the small cam protecting last moves otherwise I would have probably backed off. 3 star route I think.

maumau 03/Sep/13 2nd dog
braders94 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rob Cooper
Dino Dave 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Will
lanky and weak 11/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with Craig Usher
wayne higgins leeds uk 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Marq 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Helen C (LMC)
Bill Lawrence 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with dave warburton, andy lawrence
ojp 30/May/12 2nd
with Robin
robin_hackney 30/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/12 Lead O/S
pastep 20/May/12 Lead

Found a lovely positive crimp in the diagonal crack that saved me having to jam!

with Will242
Will242 20/May/12 2nd

Awkward thrutchy crux near the bottom. Should have tried a head jam!

with pastep
mfisher 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Neil
Neil R 31/Jul/11 2nd
with Matty
chrishedgehog 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Kieran Myles
mr spoon 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S

A wounderfull testing route one of my favourites so far. The wording in Rock Fax and grading make this sound easier than it is. The start 'climb round the flake' farly steep reasonably blank face starting under a large block! fab moves to get round this and good gear in the flake. Micro cams made life very easy and better protected than could have been but the travers on the ledge is exposed and gearless making a very exiting finish for a lead climb.

Hidden 12/Jun/11 Lead rpt
tom.n.walker 06/Jun/11 Lead O/S
dainbramaged999 04/Jun/11 Lead β

Seconded for Josh before, good climb!

Hidden 25/May/11 TR O/S
Hidden 18/May/11 Lead O/S
rcwaterworth 09/May/11 Lead
spragglerocks 03/May/11 2nd O/S
with Steve M
SteveM 03/May/11 Lead
with Rachael
smithjmw46 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Crux at bottom of climb which was a shame as the rest of the climb seemed much less bold after that. some tricky placements but pretty chuffed to finish the climb despite a couple of bleeding fingers

dainbramaged999 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
andy mcc 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Arifa Chakera
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
nick ferro 17/Sep/10 -
karly54 25/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Paul Oldham
ekaterina sigida 11/May/10 2nd

want to lead this next. tricky first part dave fell off first time he tried it- it was a bit wet and pollished, and exciting top as dave placed a put in the shot hole that fell out i think. it was funny

with Dave Green
Dave Warburton 28/Apr/10 Solo O/S

Great hidden holds. Two star class route.

Hidden 10/Apr/10 -
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Russell Lovett 31/Aug/09 TR O/S

crag was very green and wet so decided to top rope the routes as you just could not tell when your foot or hand might pop off.

with andrew haigh
Hidden 22/Jul/09 Lead O/S
christensena ?/Jul/09 2nd
MeMeMe 23/Jun/09 Lead
with Andy
Hidden 23/Jun/09 2nd
pebbles 23/Jun/09 Lead β

had beta on pro for top ledge traverse. BETA FOLLOWS! . . . . . . . - small friend, in this case a borrowed 0.25 wild country cam, which was most welcome as the traverse is delicate (and I am not ;-D). Bats round the buttress as I belayed felt appropriate.

petellis 03/Jun/09 2nd dog

Led this OS before but hated the start this time. Too much bouldering has spoilt me.

jkarran 03/Jun/09 Lead

As an escape from Waster. Odd but fun little traverse at the top.

with Pete
Matthew Coleman 12/May/09 TR dog
with Lesley
Alex Mason 23/Apr/09 Solo O/S

Nice route, worth more than 1 star. quicky tricky start and a perfectly exposed finish.

shouter ?/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 30/Dec/08 Lead O/S
andy mcc 30/Dec/08 2nd
with Robin Nicholson
Hidden 27/Jun/08 Lead
petellis 10/Jun/08 2nd
GrantB 10/Jun/08 Lead
riven 21/May/08 2nd O/S
petellis 21/May/08 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 21/May/08 Lead O/S
with Joe
kitkat78 14/May/08 Lead O/S
with SteveM
SteveM 14/May/08 2nd O/S
with Kat
Mattyk 08/May/08 Lead rpt

dicey top section. adds interest

mje1398 07/May/08 Lead O/S
with John M
Hidden 14/Mar/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/08 Lead
brockers ??/2008 Lead O/S
innes ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Adam1973 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Dave Foster ??/2007 Lead O/S

I absolutely loved this climb. Traverse at top of slab is fantastic.

with Bryn
clive-greenwood 30/Jun/06 2nd
MikeLeeds 30/Jun/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/05 -
adam carless ?/Jan/05 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/05 -
Hidden ?/Jan/05 -
Hidden ?/Jan/05 -
Hidden ?/Jan/05 -
Hidden ?/Jan/05 -
Hidden ?/Jan/05 -
adam carless ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/Oct/04 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
adam carless ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S

A nightmare, first moves were ok, but quickly into a very muddy, green and wet crack in which a nut key was the best gear. Finishes with a traverse which feels really exposed, and a final smearing move up to the top. Never again. month is a guess

with James Rowe?
Brown 14/Feb/04 Solo O/S
kitch22 10/Jul/03 Lead rpt
with Daniel Metcalfe
lankystreakof 28/Jun/03 2nd
with John Walsh
kitch22 28/Jun/03 TR
John Brayshaw 12/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Richard Tomlinson
Mattyk 09/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Tim Kavanagh
Hidden 16/Aug/00 TR O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
OriginalGeckoboy ??/1998 -
nickdonohue 25/Apr/95 Lead
with John Proctor
crater 19/Jul/94 2nd
crossleysm ??/1992 2nd
uphillnow ??/1992 Lead

done before

Tom V ??/1990 -
with Glenn Watson
lithos ??/1990 -

few times since 90s and fun traverse

with all sorts
Pete Pozman 18/May/89 Lead rpt
with Sue Hartley, John Byrne
craig h ?/Jan/89 2nd
craig h ?/Jan/89 2nd
craig h ?/Jan/89 2nd
craig h ?/Jan/89 2nd
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
craig h ??/1987 -

My first VS lead (well in the 1982 YMC guide), done at dusk with bats flying around the buttress.

Paul Clarke ??/1987 Lead
Andy Say 27/Jul/86 Lead O/S
rilem ??/1980 2nd
Dave Musgrove 29/Mar/74 Lead
mikej 31/Aug/72 Lead
with Stewart Grant
greenbuoy 07/Jul/71 Lead
with Bob ?
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 14
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set