Rockfax Description
I, 200m, 3 - 4 hours. A wonderful outing that offers exposure and situations normally reserved for much harder routes. The peak is popular so, unless your timing is perfect, you're unlikely to have it to yourself. The route includes the Southwest Ridge and descends the Northeast Ridge. It can be done in reverse but the classic (and best) way to do it is how we've described it.
Approach - From the Helbronner lift, cross the Col des Flambeux and descend west to pass under the Aiguille de Toule North Face. Continue in this direction and make the gradual climb to the Col d'Entréves - 1 hour from Helbronner lift.
1) 4b. From the col, follow the ridge over easy but occasionally loose ground. Take care - only the actual line is solid, and moving even a metre either way can take you into some horribly loose ground. Turn any obstacles on the right, until you reach a flat, 10m section of ridge with an extremely thin and sharp tooth at the far end. Climb the crest of the ridge (exposed) to the foot of the tooth and then downclimb (4b) or abseil down the chimney below.
2) Step left into a steep, short chimney (useful footholds on the right wall) and climb this to rejoin the ridge. Stay on the crest on excellent rock, in a spectacular position, and with the occasional bolt. After 50m of traversing the ridge begins to steepen again. Climb initially on the left-hand side of the ridge before reaching a seemingly blank wall with two bolts at the bottom.
3) 4c/A0 (or 5b). Step right to climb the tough but brief corner, with or without the help of the sling (5b if done free). Continue along the ridge crest for 10m more to reach the summit - roughly 90 mins from Col d'Entréves.
4) Downclimb a short, slabby crack for 5m from the summit to reach a bolt on the left (facing in). It is possible to do a 30m abseil from the bolt, and then another 30m from a lower bolt, but the abseils are awkward and downclimbing may be easier.
5) 3b. Where the ridge flattens out, follow the crest over easy, broken ground until the ridge begins to ascend briefly. The final tower can be turned on either side but the right is slightly easier (3b). From the far side of this, continue to the end of the ridge and then drop off rightwards to reach the glacier. It is also possible to make a short abseil left after the final tower in order to reach the glacier.
Descent - Swing round under the foot of the northeast ridge (can be icy) and walk northwest to regain the approach. Due to crevasse danger do not attempt to cut the corner and descend directly towards the Aiguille de Toule. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming, Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+), Alpine Dreamz, Intro to Alpine

Feedback

UserDateNotes
atthedropofahat 18 Aug Show βeta
βeta: As TomGB says. Abb off before the downclimb and aim to hit the crest of the icy ridge which runs from the bergschrund to the final peak of the ridge. Follow the bergschrund and jump across a gap approx 1m wide! This is a very dry season.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As TomGB says. Abb off before the downclimb and aim to hit the crest of the icy ridge which runs from the bergschrund to the final peak of the ridge. Follow the bergschrund and jump across a gap approx 1m wide! This is a very dry season.
TomGB 14 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Definitely don't go all the way to the end of the ridge and then try to get back across to the glacier. You have to cross horrendous gravel/ice/choss that was by far the spiciest part of the day. Make sure you ab down the left
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely don't go all the way to the end of the ridge and then try to get back across to the glacier. You have to cross horrendous gravel/ice/choss that was by far the spiciest part of the day. Make sure you ab down the left
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Si 25 Aug AltLd
with Mark G
with Mark G
Hidden 21 Aug Lead O/S
Ula_F 17 Aug 2nd O/S
atthedropofahat 16 Aug AltLd O/S From Helbronner dropped tent and gear off at about 0800hrs then went to climb ridge was entirely dry and fairly easy crux step felt easier than the one on cosmiques. We climbed well as a pair. I felt the hardest climbing move was the step down before the crux section as this was a little blind. All well protected however. Descended to the col but this was a big mistake with bullet hard gravel and ice to traverse to get established on the actual descent route to the bergschrund. Other groups abbed to this point
From Helbronner dropped tent and gear off at about 0800hrs then went to climb ridge was entirely dry and fairly easy crux step felt easier than the one on cosmiques. We climbed well as a pair. I felt the hardest climbing move was the step down before the crux section as this was a little blind. All well protected however. Descended to the col but this was a big mistake with bullet hard gravel and ice to traverse to get established on the actual descent route to the bergschrund. Other groups abbed to this point
Ed Saint 13 Aug - A great route for a single day in the high mountains, easily accessible from the new Skyway lift. The weather was excellent and the clouds parted to provide an excellent view all round. NB - abseiling to the French side just before the end of the ridge was a good option today, with black ice waiting at the end of the ridge proper.
A great route for a single day in the high mountains, easily accessible from the new Skyway lift. The weather was excellent and the clouds parted to provide an excellent view all round. NB - abseiling to the French side just before the end of the ridge was a good option today, with black ice waiting at the end of the ridge proper.
Tiktianc 13 Aug Lead O/S w/ula boots
w/ula boots
Karlos 13 Aug AltLd O/S
with Tom M, Stewart Moody
with Tom M, Stewart Moody
TomGB 13 Aug AltLd Really nice scrambling l, 5a pitch is very physical in big boots. Went all the way to the end of the ridge and had to cross horrible ice choss to get onto the descent route, placing screws as protection
with Karlos, Stewart Moody
Really nice scrambling l, 5a pitch is very physical in big boots. Went all the way to the end of the ridge and had to cross horrible ice choss to get onto the descent route, placing screws as protection
with Karlos, Stewart Moody
Spykesy 9 Aug -
DJH 6 Aug Solo
Ollieaxon 5 Aug AltLd O/S
with DJH
with DJH
jjone797 1 Aug 2nd β
mattorford 31 Jul - went right off last top, had to climb back up and abseil left
with Gina
went right off last top, had to climb back up and abseil left
with Gina
philgillespie 30 Jul Lead
Shane Nowakowski 30 Jul -
Jo sumner 29 Jul AltLd
Hidden 29 Jul AltLd
Wizzy 29 Jul AltLd O/S Moving together the whole way, 2.5 hours give or take. Class
Moving together the whole way, 2.5 hours give or take. Class
David Woodward 29 Jul Lead
Tom Briggs 22 Jul -
GOS 17 Jul 2nd O/S Doug led to summit. Colm and elaine the descent. Good line. Some queueing behind. Diff to find ab point onto glacier. 6h 40 round trip from turino
with Colm Peppard, doug_l, Elaine Mullan
Doug led to summit. Colm and elaine the descent. Good line. Some queueing behind. Diff to find ab point onto glacier. 6h 40 round trip from turino
with Colm Peppard, doug_l, Elaine Mullan
Keith Lambley 17 Jul - Great traverse but got held up by team of 4 on a rope trying to pitch part of the route.
with Kate R
Great traverse but got held up by team of 4 on a rope trying to pitch part of the route.
with Kate R
eric.simonsson 17 Jul -
doug_l 17 Jul AltLd O/S lovely sunny day
with GOS, elaine, Colm
lovely sunny day
with GOS, elaine, Colm
scottrobertson1990 14 Jul -
with Jack Lydon
with Jack Lydon
scottrobertson1990 14 Jul -
with Jack Lydon
with Jack Lydon
oonagh thin 13 Jul AltLd
Jack Manfredi 10 Jul AltLd
with Wynn Jones , Dad
with Wynn Jones , Dad
James Rigby 8 Jul AltLd O/S
with Conor
with Conor
Max Streeton 8 Jul AltLd O/S
with Neil Sawyer, Sheri Bastien
with Neil Sawyer, Sheri Bastien
carr0t 5 Jul -
with Hammy-G
with Hammy-G
Hammy-G 5 Jul AltLd
DarwinMundy 5 Jul AltLd Perfect - landed into Geneva in the morning, straight up to Torino Hut, and then onto this wonderfully easy transverse. Great start to a long weekend in mountains.
with Pascal
Perfect - landed into Geneva in the morning, straight up to Torino Hut, and then onto this wonderfully easy transverse. Great start to a long weekend in mountains.
with Pascal
Calum3610 5 Jul AltLd Excellent exposed ridge! Moved together for most of it apart from the 5b crux, which we pitched and did free.
with Andy H AMC
Excellent exposed ridge! Moved together for most of it apart from the 5b crux, which we pitched and did free.
with Andy H AMC
william henderson 4 Jul AltLd O/S
jarljorgensen 1 Jul -
Hidden 1 Jul AltLd O/S
Aislinn_sun ?Jul Lead
Steven haywood 28 Jun AltLd Beautiful.
Beautiful.
Natalie Dyer 28 Jun AltLd O/S
Aled Williams 27 Jun -
with Mary Eggins, Hero Pete
with Mary Eggins, Hero Pete
ajscott774 26 Jun AltLd O/S
orimarti 25 Jun Lead O/S
Chris Manasseh 20 Jun - Day 4 of alpine training. Moved together and seconded the pitched sections.
with Al Powell
Day 4 of alpine training. Moved together and seconded the pitched sections.
with Al Powell
Cbulman 18 Jun -
Simon Gompertz 18 Jun 2nd O/S A bit eerie in the mist on the narrow bit of the traverse
A bit eerie in the mist on the narrow bit of the traverse
Tim Bevan 30 Apr Lead Big day out with Will, Mark and Kit. We all had ridiculous bags but Mark's took the biscuit, god knows what he had in that thing. Skied over to the col and dropped off our biv equipment before going up the ridge to the Aiguille d'Entreves. Got to the crux pitch to discover that everone before us had turned around and it was totally iced up. After a good amount of digging I just about managed to heave myself up it and we made it to the footprints on the other side of the Aiguille. Had the route all to ourselves as it was late in the day by the time we were finishing - no problem for us with our biv kit! Waded back to the col feeling very pleased with ourselves and made camp as the sun set. Dug a great pit for the tents in a wind lip and soon got settled in, but tea was a slow affair as we only had one jetboil, and it was glacially slow with the cold gas.
Big day out with Will, Mark and Kit. We all had ridiculous bags but Mark's took the biscuit, god knows what he had in that thing. Skied over to the col and dropped off our biv equipment before going up the ridge to the Aiguille d'Entreves. Got to the crux pitch to discover that everone before us had turned around and it was totally iced up. After a good amount of digging I just about managed to heave myself up it and we made it to the footprints on the other side of the Aiguille. Had the route all to ourselves as it was late in the day by the time we were finishing - no problem for us with our biv kit! Waded back to the col feeling very pleased with ourselves and made camp as the sun set. Dug a great pit for the tents in a wind lip and soon got settled in, but tea was a slow affair as we only had one jetboil, and it was glacially slow with the cold gas.
Will Wheeler 30 Apr - Fresh day out with the boys
Fresh day out with the boys
Hidden 8 Apr Lead
Fiona_H 8 Apr 2nd ja take me up there please
with Owen
ja take me up there please
with Owen
kenneM 28 Mar AltLd O/S
with Carl Davies
with Carl Davies
scottrobertson1990 8 Jan Solo Completed full route! Epic!
with Richard Stacey
Completed full route! Epic!
with Richard Stacey
tjbrumme 1 Jan AltLd
Guillem 30 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Loubylou 19 Sep, 2018 2nd Utterly terrifying at times. At the absolute extreme of my comfort zone. It wasn't pretty in the awkward bits!
with Bruce Goodlad
Utterly terrifying at times. At the absolute extreme of my comfort zone. It wasn't pretty in the awkward bits!
with Bruce Goodlad
D.botts87 9 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with Luca, Nathan, Minty
with Luca, Nathan, Minty
Mrs D 6 Sep, 2018 2nd Started easily enough. Exposure intimidating. Tough corner - really struggled. Did not place feet very well. Poor weather aproaching so fairly quick (4.5 hrs hut to hut)
with Andy, Pelle Bagewitz
Started easily enough. Exposure intimidating. Tough corner - really struggled. Did not place feet very well. Poor weather aproaching so fairly quick (4.5 hrs hut to hut)
with Andy, Pelle Bagewitz
yelotango 6 Sep, 2018 AltLd with guide, used sling on the hard move
with guide, used sling on the hard move
Hidden 4 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
Neno Mattos 4 Sep, 2018 AltLd Climbed w/ Sebastien, Cosmin, Andy, Rene and Warwick.
Climbed w/ Sebastien, Cosmin, Andy, Rene and Warwick.
Duffyrm 3 Sep, 2018 2nd Amazing day out, fantastic.
Amazing day out, fantastic.
BarneyLoosemore 29 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
7toes 29 Aug, 2018 AltLd
with Barney
with Barney
watson.b 28 Aug, 2018 Lead
Richard Alderton 28 Aug, 2018 -
Adamski1986 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Tony Myers 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Elle bemd, Adamski1986
with Elle bemd, Adamski1986
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 Lead
simon snowdon 26 Aug, 2018 2nd
Jacob Eagles 26 Aug, 2018 Lead
with Dave Morgan, simon snowdon
with Dave Morgan, simon snowdon
Amy Kilpin 25 Aug, 2018 -
with Jon Bracey
with Jon Bracey
Kristian1805 22 Aug, 2018 -
Jared Goldberg 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Merlin 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S 5 hrs from Car to Car. Steady throng of people making progress slow. Otherwise, good conditions, fun exposure.
with Chubbs
5 hrs from Car to Car. Steady throng of people making progress slow. Otherwise, good conditions, fun exposure.
with Chubbs
Jared Goldberg 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Aug, 2018 Lead
jobiehoar 9 Aug, 2018 -
georgel 9 Aug, 2018 -
davidibex 5 Aug, 2018 -
SJPowderham1 5 Aug, 2018 -
ChristyCole 1 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with dkilner
with dkilner
dkilner 1 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 2018 -
smelliedebs ?Aug, 2018 AltLd
with Adamski1986, Tony
with Adamski1986, Tony
Dan0Me 26 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Hamish
with Hamish
Hidden 24 Jul, 2018 -
sroelants 18 Jul, 2018 -
Hidden 17 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
Marc-A Di Guisto 17 Jul, 2018 2nd
joegrainger 17 Jul, 2018 2nd
with Gav Pike
with Gav Pike
j.anstee 17 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead to start of climb in no vis. Then took the lead for exposed pinnacle traverse and the crux, then lead down route and back to hut. Didn’t turn left hard enough and ended up crossing over the small bergshrund. Atmospheric in the clouds today.... 6.5hr round trip due to getting stuck beghind two teams on the crux.
with Josh Richardson, Stu Quinn
Lead to start of climb in no vis. Then took the lead for exposed pinnacle traverse and the crux, then lead down route and back to hut. Didn’t turn left hard enough and ended up crossing over the small bergshrund. Atmospheric in the clouds today.... 6.5hr round trip due to getting stuck beghind two teams on the crux.
with Josh Richardson, Stu Quinn
Marisa 12 Jul, 2018 -
MaccMark 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Steve Graham, Stuart Hurworth
with Steve Graham, Stuart Hurworth
George.D 8 Jul, 2018 Lead
Matt Boyd 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Neil Dickson
with Neil Dickson
nisbetag 5 Jul, 2018 AltLd Guided alt lead route in the Alps with Simon Hale.
Guided alt lead route in the Alps with Simon Hale.
Paul Sagar 4 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Amazing first alpine route. Went with Mark, via Vertical Adventures. Superb day - outrageous exposure after great glacier traverse walk-in. Was feeling the altitude a bit towards the end but remarkably didn’t find it too noticeable otherwise.
Amazing first alpine route. Went with Mark, via Vertical Adventures. Superb day - outrageous exposure after great glacier traverse walk-in. Was feeling the altitude a bit towards the end but remarkably didn’t find it too noticeable otherwise.
Sam Maher 2 Jul, 2018 Lead
with Rob Davis
with Rob Davis
James Gordon ?Jul, 2018 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Pearce Nicholl 28 Jun, 2018 -
Ian Lemon 28 Jun, 2018 AltLd Fourth route as part of Alpine Guides course.
Fourth route as part of Alpine Guides course.
joem 27 Jun, 2018 AltLd repeat in very different conditions. lead the crux, somewhat easier without snow on it.
repeat in very different conditions. lead the crux, somewhat easier without snow on it.
ChrisH89 27 Jun, 2018 AltLd Knackered, but nice short route and glad we did it. 1.5 hrs or so for the route, had it to ourselves.
with joem
Knackered, but nice short route and glad we did it. 1.5 hrs or so for the route, had it to ourselves.
with joem
cacheson 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd Great wee ridge
with JordanR, CalumI
Great wee ridge
with JordanR, CalumI
RedEd 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Iain_L_32 21 Jun, 2018 -
martha1121 21 Jun, 2018 2nd
Harry Padley 19 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Will Mortimer 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
nicjbuk 14 Jun, 2018 Lead
with rab middlemiss, BILL BUTTERWORTH
with rab middlemiss, BILL BUTTERWORTH
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Hagen 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Schön aber in der Falschen Richtung sind wir ihn gegangen und er war gar nicht so einfach abzusichern
with Eva- Maria
Schön aber in der Falschen Richtung sind wir ihn gegangen und er war gar nicht so einfach abzusichern
with Eva- Maria
Manc88 8 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Brilliant route with phenomenal exposure! Good snow cover all the way, moved together apart from the exposed traverse and crux step. Gave Jake a truly memorable end to his first week in the Alps. Not sure how this is graded easier than Cosmiques or Marbrees though!
with Jake, LG-Mark
Brilliant route with phenomenal exposure! Good snow cover all the way, moved together apart from the exposed traverse and crux step. Gave Jake a truly memorable end to his first week in the Alps. Not sure how this is graded easier than Cosmiques or Marbrees though!
with Jake, LG-Mark
LG-Mark 8 Jun, 2018 AltLd Fabulous route - great exposure and a fine ridge.
with Manc88
Fabulous route - great exposure and a fine ridge.
with Manc88
QuentinSu 1 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
jflloyd ?Jun, 2018 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2018 -
Hidden ?Jun, 2018 -
joeflan 23 May, 2018 AltLd O/S moved together, great fun
with fraser scott, James scott
moved together, great fun
with fraser scott, James scott
Hidden 22 Feb, 2018 -
Hidden 8 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
Derek Graham 22 Sep, 2017 -
wheelsucker 22 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Petewilk 15 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with Maxime Turgeon, Carly Mahony
with Maxime Turgeon, Carly Mahony
l21bjd 8 Sep, 2017 - Jagged Globe techniques 2. Moved together as a rope of 2 initially. Hannah joined the middle of the rope for the narrow bit, led the crux, and took the back end of the rope to protect parts of the descent. Annoyed with myself for using the sling - not sure it really helps if you're tall enough!
Jagged Globe techniques 2. Moved together as a rope of 2 initially. Hannah joined the middle of the rope for the narrow bit, led the crux, and took the back end of the rope to protect parts of the descent. Annoyed with myself for using the sling - not sure it really helps if you're tall enough!
Mike Bovill 8 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
nation1 8 Sep, 2017 -
with Rich B , Chris Cope
with Rich B , Chris Cope
gallonj 4 Sep, 2017 -
Christine 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Late in season so decent was only steep ice. Had to traverse the ice 40m In a gully exposed to rockfall to get on to the glacier. Had only two ice screws and used a cam in addition
with Luke gorman
Late in season so decent was only steep ice. Had to traverse the ice 40m In a gully exposed to rockfall to get on to the glacier. Had only two ice screws and used a cam in addition
with Luke gorman
Guillem 27 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 22 Aug, 2017 -
adam088 21 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Jon Turner, jbuoey
with Jon Turner, jbuoey
Hannah V 16 Aug, 2017 -
with Sami Modenius, Linda Sun
with Sami Modenius, Linda Sun
steve_gibbs 14 Aug, 2017 AltLd rpt
Hidden 13 Aug, 2017 -
Hooo 9 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S First go at climbing in big boots. Did the 5b corner free without much trouble. Great climbing, pity we were in cloud the whole way and didn't get the view. Must come back on a nice day and lead it.
with Vincej, Fred
First go at climbing in big boots. Did the 5b corner free without much trouble. Great climbing, pity we were in cloud the whole way and didn't get the view. Must come back on a nice day and lead it.
with Vincej, Fred
Vincej 9 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Fred Drouet, Hooo
with Fred Drouet, Hooo
steve_gibbs 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Samuel Wainwright 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Laurie Holt 3 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with Alice Swallow, Mark Huddlestone
with Alice Swallow, Mark Huddlestone
ali.scott ?Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2017 2nd
hetty.key 27 Jul, 2017 2nd
JWTM 27 Jul, 2017 -
Sam Hunt 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
elewis96 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd
AlexD-L 16 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S Awesome route, followed by chilly but spectacular bivy in the Col des Flambeaux.
with Ed Lewis, Sam
Awesome route, followed by chilly but spectacular bivy in the Col des Flambeaux.
with Ed Lewis, Sam
Scott Anderson 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd My first climb in a year. Took me a little while to get used to climbing in B3's. Great traverse, engaging but not overly challenging, Gav led most of it while I got my head back. About 4hours approx, then hiked over to Cirque Maudit for the bivi.
My first climb in a year. Took me a little while to get used to climbing in B3's. Great traverse, engaging but not overly challenging, Gav led most of it while I got my head back. About 4hours approx, then hiked over to Cirque Maudit for the bivi.
Hidden 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Julian Prieto 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
RuthW 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd
rss91 6 Jul, 2017 -
Hidden 5 Jul, 2017 -
Hidden 5 Jul, 2017 -
Barny Hamon 5 Jul, 2017 Solo Soloed up till the 5b wall, pitched that and moved together for the rest. Downclimbed rather than abseiled.
with Steve
Soloed up till the 5b wall, pitched that and moved together for the rest. Downclimbed rather than abseiled.
with Steve
SteveD 1 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Barney Hamon
with Barney Hamon
joem 30 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 22 Jun, 2017 2nd
neal 22 Jun, 2017 AltLd From bivi on Col d'Entreves. Very pleasant. Soloed for while, then moved together. Did the 5b move free - not very difficult. Down climbed instead of abbing, it's pretty easy, stayiong near crest of ridge. Went on to do Aig de Toule, then return to bivi. Saw wolf on the col d'entreves.
with Stuart Mcleod
From bivi on Col d'Entreves. Very pleasant. Soloed for while, then moved together. Did the 5b move free - not very difficult. Down climbed instead of abbing, it's pretty easy, stayiong near crest of ridge. Went on to do Aig de Toule, then return to bivi. Saw wolf on the col d'entreves.
with Stuart Mcleod
anthonylewis 21 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S 4am breakfast at the Torino hut allowed us to avoid the crowds. Rich lead most of the ridge. Nice route. Moving together for the vast majority of the route saw us complete it in 3hrs from the col.
4am breakfast at the Torino hut allowed us to avoid the crowds. Rich lead most of the ridge. Nice route. Moving together for the vast majority of the route saw us complete it in 3hrs from the col.
Hidden 21 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
IanHope 19 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
with Bruce goodlad
with Bruce goodlad
Siongethinhill 17 Jun, 2017 -
Siongethinhill 17 Jun, 2017 -
Nashty6 16 Jun, 2017 AltLd
with Richard Perry
with Richard Perry
Hidden 13 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
HaddRoots ?Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
KBerggren 20 Apr, 2017 AltLd
Josh Jones 20 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
jon@asgardbeyond.is 17 Mar, 2017 Lead
with Freskur
with Freskur
janegallwey 30 Dec, 2016 2nd O/S
Piglet69 1 Oct, 2016 2nd with JB
with JB
dauwhe 24 Sep, 2016 2nd Magnificent setting. Crampons all the way as there was a fair bit of snow.
with Adam George
Magnificent setting. Crampons all the way as there was a fair bit of snow.
with Adam George
Chubbs 9 Sep, 2016 -
Katrina 7 Sep, 2016 2nd
chris smith 6 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Stickle Tarn 6 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Pretty easy ridge climbing in exposed positions with the odd bolt thrown in. A nice half days climbing. 1 hour from the Torino hut, 1.5-2 hours on the ridge.
Pretty easy ridge climbing in exposed positions with the odd bolt thrown in. A nice half days climbing. 1 hour from the Torino hut, 1.5-2 hours on the ridge.
John Procter 3 Sep, 2016 -
with tom humphreys
with tom humphreys
Hidden 1 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2016 -
ross83 ?Sep, 2016 AltLd
EuanM 28 Aug, 2016 Lead
humptydumpty 26 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Was third on the rope for most of it, but that meant doing the downclimbs unprotected. Gave lots of unwanted routefinding tips, and led the final descent. All free.
Was third on the rope for most of it, but that meant doing the downclimbs unprotected. Gave lots of unwanted routefinding tips, and led the final descent. All free.
roxyroundtheworld 23 Aug, 2016 -
mike.moss 11 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
benwmorgan 11 Aug, 2016 Lead
Guss1 10 Aug, 2016 AltLd
davidswannn 4 Aug, 2016 2nd Guided by Gavin Pike, BMG
Guided by Gavin Pike, BMG
bennys89 ?Aug, 2016 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2016 -
wchan 19 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 18 Jul, 2016 -
Tim Sparrow 17 Jul, 2016 - After the SE ridge of Tour Ronde on my acclimatising day.
with Geoff Thomas
After the SE ridge of Tour Ronde on my acclimatising day.
with Geoff Thomas
Michael 15 Jul, 2016 -
ijsbeer 11 Jul, 2016 -
leopolian 3 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S First alpine route away from the protection of the Conville Course. Wasn't feeling very well but enjoyed moving on the rock and the exposure. The best section is definitely the knife edge ridge just before the 5b move. Lots of down climbing which at times was quite stressful when Sarah ran out of gear (spent a long time moving one nut down along with me). Slowed down towards the end of the ridge and clouds started moving in which caused a little bit of team stress. The walk back was a horrible slog! Bivvied in the Col du Flambeau in a very small 3 man tent with 4 people. Fun and uncomfortable.
First alpine route away from the protection of the Conville Course. Wasn't feeling very well but enjoyed moving on the rock and the exposure. The best section is definitely the knife edge ridge just before the 5b move. Lots of down climbing which at times was quite stressful when Sarah ran out of gear (spent a long time moving one nut down along with me). Slowed down towards the end of the ridge and clouds started moving in which caused a little bit of team stress. The walk back was a horrible slog! Bivvied in the Col du Flambeau in a very small 3 man tent with 4 people. Fun and uncomfortable.
Sarah Roscoe 3 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Shaun Sharkey ?Jul, 2016 -
Guillem 26 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
Nemo9 22 Jun, 2016 - Great wee route. In mixed conditions .
with Col
Great wee route. In mixed conditions .
with Col
Hugh Simons 14 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Really nice route. Plenty of interest and exposure! Better than Cosmiques Arete. Moved together the whole way, in poons for the whole ridge due to snowy conditions.
Really nice route. Plenty of interest and exposure! Better than Cosmiques Arete. Moved together the whole way, in poons for the whole ridge due to snowy conditions.
calumhicks 14 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S In snowy conditions with crampons. Like a more exposed and interesting cosmiques arete (and harder given the conditions)
In snowy conditions with crampons. Like a more exposed and interesting cosmiques arete (and harder given the conditions)
Rory Southworth 10 Jun, 2016 -
cmars89 26 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with Ryan Weber
with Ryan Weber
DaveThexton 30 Jan, 2016 Lead O/S With crampons. Definitely AD
With crampons. Definitely AD
Jenn_Stretton 30 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S
_hs_ ??, 2016 2nd
Josh Wade ??, 2016 -
romatou18 28 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
with Stephane Lacourt
with Stephane Lacourt
nbryant 7 Sep, 2015 2nd
richard s 7 Sep, 2015 2nd
with Kate Hallam, Andy Owen
with Kate Hallam, Andy Owen
Gumery 24 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
kingjam 18 Aug, 2015 2nd climbed with Danny mountain spirit in snowy conditions
with Matt Naylor
climbed with Danny mountain spirit in snowy conditions
with Matt Naylor
MaccMark 14 Aug, 2015 AltLd
with Mat Ouillion
with Mat Ouillion
Hidden 11 Aug, 2015 -
saaruli 7 Aug, 2015 AltLd Erik lead most of the way.
with erik..
Erik lead most of the way.
with erik..
onlyfoddington 7 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Moved together on most of it though we were more circumspect on the exposed section. Pleased we dragged ourselves out of bed for it. We were within guidebook time for once and was all together pleasant.
with Andy
Moved together on most of it though we were more circumspect on the exposed section. Pleased we dragged ourselves out of bed for it. We were within guidebook time for once and was all together pleasant.
with Andy
ian d f 7 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Simul climbed. Smashed the guidebook time!
Simul climbed. Smashed the guidebook time!
Hidden 7 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
pearson9596 7 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
with ian d f
with ian d f
Hidden 4 Aug, 2015 -
Hidden 3 Aug, 2015 -
wgardiner ?Aug, 2015 2nd Did this with Mt Blanc Guides. Awesome day out in beautiful blue bird conditions.
with Ben
Did this with Mt Blanc Guides. Awesome day out in beautiful blue bird conditions.
with Ben
ClareSenny ?Aug, 2015 -
BlackheathDiggs 28 Jul, 2015 2nd
Chuck 22 Jul, 2015 Lead
dawp4810 22 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S with Gav Pike and Ozzy Dave grade AD!
with Gav Pike and Ozzy Dave grade AD!
squicky 14 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Nice little climb. Baking hot, but done in crampons anyway, just for practice.
Nice little climb. Baking hot, but done in crampons anyway, just for practice.
andymcronald 14 Jul, 2015 2nd
with Paulo Tombini
with Paulo Tombini
Hidden 6 Jul, 2015 2nd
Rob Royle 4 Jul, 2015 Lead Training Day with me leading and Seb watching over us and advising when and where appropriate. Really nice route with lots of exposure!
with Seb (Mountain Guide), Steph
Training Day with me leading and Seb watching over us and advising when and where appropriate. Really nice route with lots of exposure!
with Seb (Mountain Guide), Steph
niallsash 2 Jul, 2015 -
Hidden 1 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
davkeo 28 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Great situation. Easy climbing with nice exposure.
Great situation. Easy climbing with nice exposure.
steveforgrieve 8 Jun, 2015 2nd Alpine week with guide Andy Owen and Sue Jeffrey
Alpine week with guide Andy Owen and Sue Jeffrey
sj87 8 Jun, 2015 2nd
Flett 22 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
khalidq 7 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Moving together with James Thacker.
Moving together with James Thacker.
Bristol_Quornstar 7 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Super speedy route - overtook 8 groups!
with Paolo Intropido
Super speedy route - overtook 8 groups!
with Paolo Intropido
keithru 5 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S Great sunny day
Great sunny day
NicBatchelor 3 Aug, 2014 2nd
with Icicle Mountaineering
with Icicle Mountaineering
Hidden 1 Aug, 2014 2nd
mrbird 1 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Harri777 ?Aug, 2014 AltLd
with Khalid
with Khalid
Hidden 31 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
Adamski1986 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd More like AD
with kerry
More like AD
with kerry
Hidden 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd
DigitalSteak ?Jul, 2014 Lead
scottywakefield ?Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Aline
with Aline
johnrich 19 Jun, 2014 2nd
Hidden 20 Aug, 2013 2nd
monkeyme2 20 Aug, 2013 Lead
joelevanschamonix 2 Aug, 2013 AltLd β http://joelevanschamonix.com/2013/08/02/aiguille-dentreves-sw-ridge-pd/
with Fabio
http://joelevanschamonix.com/2013/08/02/aiguille-dentreves-sw-ridge-pd/
with Fabio
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 -
matt3402 6 Aug, 2011 -
Vincej 2 Aug, 2011 2nd
with Fred Drouet
with Fred Drouet
Rachael Ashdown 6 Aug, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 30 Aug, 1993 Lead
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Voting
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
High PD+
Mid PD+
Low PD+
High PD
Mid PD
Low PD
High PD-
Mid PD-
Low PD-
High F+
Mid F+
Low F+
Votes cast 15
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set