Rockfax Description
A good route that requires large hexes or cams. Start just right of Monolith Crack.
1) 4b, 15m. Ascend the square corner to a sloping ledge. Move along this to its right-hand end and a groove with a wide crack. Without large gear a bold move is required to gain the slab above. Head up the slab to belay below twin cracks.
2) 4a, 15m. The right-hand crack provides another challenge until easier ground leads to a ledge. Escape left or tackle the short slab to the top. © Rockfax
S.W.Herford And Party 1912.
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Ultimate HS ticklist , Siegfried Herford’s First Ascents , 1958 Climber's Club Guide - Cwm Idwal , North Wales Rock - Wired 2025
User | Date | Notes | ||
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jrobinson | 13 Oct, 2024 |
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βeta: P2 exits belay 1 up the slab and to the left into an offwidth thrutch around 4a. Not directly straight as the topo shows, which is significantly harder than 4b! | βeta? | |
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βeta: P2 exits belay 1 up the slab and to the left into an offwidth thrutch around 4a. Not directly straight as the topo shows, which is significantly harder than 4b! |
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Noah Rachel | 17 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: Large grey and large purple cam are critical in certain sections. I felt like it was closer to VS climbing for most of the actual climbing. There is a section towards the end which is just a large slab through some grass that goes on for a fair few meters. VS 4c? | ||
Show beta
βeta: Large grey and large purple cam are critical in certain sections. I felt like it was closer to VS climbing for most of the actual climbing. There is a section towards the end which is just a large slab through some grass that goes on for a fair few meters. VS 4c? |
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osocavernoso | 22 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: What a sandbag! P1 is at least 4c, P2 is about 5a (possibly 5b) | βeta? | |
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βeta: What a sandbag! P1 is at least 4c, P2 is about 5a (possibly 5b) |
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Matt Alexander | 12 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Previous comments about big gear meaning giant gear are correct (Dragon 5 too small on p1). P2 if you climb onto the tall block (not sure if that is the twin cracks from the topo) it is nowhere close to 4a (much harder). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Previous comments about big gear meaning giant gear are correct (Dragon 5 too small on p1). P2 if you climb onto the tall block (not sure if that is the twin cracks from the topo) it is nowhere close to 4a (much harder). |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Carreg y Foel Gron)