Rockfax Description
A good route that requires large hexes or cams. Start just right of Monolith Crack.
1) 4b, 15m. Ascend the square corner to a sloping ledge. Move along this to its right-hand end and a groove with a wide crack. Without large gear a bold move is required to gain the slab above. Head up the slab to belay below twin cracks.
2) 4a, 15m. The right-hand crack provides another challenge until easier ground leads to the top. © Rockfax

S.W.Herford And Party 1912

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate HS ticklist.

suds_01 30/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Andrew jimian
tdobson 28/Aug/17 2nd dog

With Phil on lead, and Ciaran 3rd. Fell on the first pitch and nearly decked. Lots of slippery full body jams. Did not enjoy. Not to be repeated til I'm stupid or much more confident.

with Phil Dawson, Ciaran Mullen
HenryMeier 26/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Philip Biglands
dkd 25/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Al
Phil Bullock 23/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Just did the first pitch...didn't read the guide properly and in the picture the line only goes to the start of the slab so thought that was it and abbed off!

with Sophia
Archbishop 24/Jun/17 2nd
with Dan Shacklock
Fiona Hughes 14/May/17 AltLd dog
with SP
Hidden 14/May/17 AltLd
foostu4 11/May/17 Lead
Hidden 18/Apr/17 2nd
shed_hed 24/Mar/17 AltLd rpt
ElliottB 09/Oct/16 2nd dog

Backed off p2

with Nils
gravity 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with James Gregory
khalidq 17/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Mikael Brudfors
warwick 17/Sep/16 AltLd
with Jon
Phil Crudge 16/Sep/16 Lead
with Olli-C
Olli-C 16/Sep/16 2nd

Strong lead by dude

with Dad
Hidden 17/Aug/16 Lead
Andyjharper 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Great route, bold moving out of cracks onto faces, but fun

with Iza
MarkFoster 05/Aug/16 AltLd
with Rich
Hidden 26/Jul/16 Lead rpt
John Elliott 26/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 21/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
gwynjones 05/Jul/16 2nd
Little Amy 05/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Eben, Gwyn
shed_hed 05/Jul/16 Solo O/S

Down climbed to get back to bottom of crag. Tried to go down LH crack on P2 a few times first of all but after lowering down off the jugs at the top there is nothing but a polished slide to a large drop! Ended up getting right in the back of the LH crack and going down that. Got stuck at the bottom of that and had to climb up and down a few times before I managed to squeeze myself out (was much tighter than P3 of Monolith crack). Only saw the RH crack was hidden from the top but looked like a desperate polished layback.

myrddinmuse 05/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Bit of a ffafathon. Enjoyed the second pitch more (led 1st pitch).

Rosie Henstock 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
TGreen 05/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Dale Finnie 30/May/16 Lead
UnkArl 29/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Debbie
Lotte Stuer 17/May/16 2nd
charlie.wilkinson 17/May/16 Lead O/S

first pitch only

with Lotte
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead
James Worthington 15/May/16 AltLd

Top pitch. Is it really a 4a or did I go up the wrong crack??

with Iain
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
tillym 08/Aug/15 AltLd dog
with Reuben
renetemple 29/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Second pitch was hilarious. Did the big crack on the right hand side... I had to lasoo my only gear placement!! Madness :)

with Holly
Hidden 12/Jun/15 Solo O/S
TheaSmea 10/Jun/15 2nd
with James
Stopsy 10/Jun/15 Lead rpt

repeat to get gear out of Hippy Invasion.

with Thea
Steve Shorrock 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
odari 23/May/15 -
SamP88 08/May/15 Lead O/S

First pitch only

with Rhodri Pritchard, JP
beckyjg 18/Apr/15 2nd
GermanAlex 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Completely misinterpreted topo and started down at Monolith, rather than further up to the right. Made it a good bit harder.

with Arno
JamesWilliams 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Dragon cam 6 only just big enough for the off width. Very nice route though

with Becky
Hidden 14/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
OliverRoss 14/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
with Jess, Chris Bulman
JessWilliams 14/Mar/15 AltLd
Hidden 28/Feb/15 2nd O/S
Alex Wade 28/Feb/15 Lead

Really enjoyable climb!

Gordon W ??/2015 Lead O/S
leethebee 31/Oct/14 Lead β
with Stella Wyn Thomas
fuzzysheep01 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Pierce Ferris
Stopsy 22/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Great! Although the grade in CC could be improved!

with Stu
Tubs 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Finished up Barracuda P2 (HVS 5a ish).

with George
Nigel Coe 22/Jun/14 AltLd
with Pete Kelly
wynniemandela 16/Jun/14 2nd

Climbed in the late evening. Good conditions and a beautiful dusk to be seen down Nant Ffrancon. Came down after dark. Difficult sections on both pitches with polished rock.

Hidden 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Mark Loveday 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Struggled and cursed all the way up the big crack (P1) before going off-course P2.

with mark s, Chris Bridgland
Stoff 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Mark L led first pitch and did really good job in the crack. Went off route on second pitch and Mark S led up Monolith to finish. Can't believe the twin cracks are meant to be HS !

with Mark L, Mark S
Nicholas Livesey 12/Jun/14 2nd
with Bryn Williams, Paul Poole
JenRoberts 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S

'Interesting' thrutchy climbing.

with Ollie
Hidden 27/May/14 Lead
Hidden 27/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead
kivell 03/May/14 -
adamre12 29/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

P1 was fun and thrutchy. Pitch 2 felt much harder than HS, jamming up the hand crack. Got benighted and had to descend in the dark at 12!

with Hannah Hupfeld, chris nutman
Hidden 19/Apr/14 -
Cwallace 19/Apr/14 AltLd
chris nutman ?/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Felt much harder than HS 4b. Defo for pitch two is at least VS possibly HVS.

oldmanofmow ??/2014 -
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
dan_o_b ?/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
JamesLloyd 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
partz 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Same 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Interesting second pitch

DaveGarrity 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Did this as a three, I led first pitch, Ewan took second. Mike and I couldn't hear a thing from the first belay, Ewan spent ages yelling down to us, eventually got us on Mike's mobile!

Mattzx6r 20/Jul/13 AltLd
with Sonia
mikehenesy 20/Jul/13 AltLd
sonic46 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
sdawson1 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Is this really Severe ? Def HS

with JB
demarcation86 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Hard for grade

with John M, Paul
JAGM 04/Jul/13 2nd
Rob Davies 09/Jun/13 2nd
with Phil Ashton, Dave Rimmer
tim20 ??/2013 -
centurion05 ??/2013 -
deklan ??/2013 Lead
with mark
Hidden 12/Aug/12 AltLd dog
Hidden 08/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/12 AltLd
georgedunton 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/12 -
ojgrant 11/May/12 AltLd
robthered 22/Jan/12 2nd dog

No problems apart from getting numb hands after spending too long squeezing rucsack up P2 chimney. Agree with HS, well protected.

Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
piersg ??/2012 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Daymo 19/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Nov/11 AltLd
stevethomas 02/Oct/11 AltLd
with Conrad
jcook1980 01/Oct/11 2nd
with Leo
leohl 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
sian88 28/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Lotte Stuer 18/Aug/11 Lead
with Josh
Hidden 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Chris Manasseh 10/Jul/11 AltLd

Led pitch 1. Gets HS 4b in NWR

with Andy Gee
hawkins321 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with dan, ash
Hidden 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
ritchierich 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Sera made this into a 3 pitch climb, I did 1 and 3. Sera did quartz slab inbetween pitches :(

bigdan050 26/Jun/11 AltLd

really good with some funky pollish

with Mark
farmus21 28/May/11 AltLd

lead P2. Nice enough.

with Tim
LukeyG 01/May/11 AltLd
C-nunez 01/May/11 AltLd O/S
benchwarmer 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
Tom Greenwood 16/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Chris Shannon
amthalmann 11/Apr/11 2nd
with Richard
richardcreagh 11/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jillybean 09/Apr/11 2nd
with Martyn
Noodles 09/Apr/11 Lead

Climbed with Jill, led P1 and P2.

lilliyan ?/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
stvredmond 17/Oct/10 Lead

a right ego buster. the flared v groove was horrendous

Run_Ross_Run 17/Oct/10 AltLd

A Beast! Lead 1st half of 1st pitch. Steve lead 2nd part. 2nd pitch was a N mare on the lead and i nearly paid for it. Great!

with Steve
trigger118 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Ben Alsford
Lee Groves ?/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Allington
Lotte Stuer 14/Sep/10 AltLd
dpiddock 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
RhedwrMynydd 30/Aug/10 AltLd
Kyle F 16/Aug/10 AltLd
Andrew Sloan 21/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Climbed with a sack, quite tough for the grade.

with Tim
Hidden 05/Jul/10 AltLd
PanzerHanzler 27/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
with Sheila Norman, Adrian Fagg
gordon henderson 13/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with andy woolston
Keith Jones 11/Jun/10 AltLd
with David
oliverharold 30/May/10 2nd
rustaldo 28/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/10 2nd
jandyd05 28/May/10 Lead O/S

Very polished and thrutchy - good fun with hindsight though not at the time ;-)

Hidden 28/May/10 AltLd O/S
Ivan Muckle 23/May/10 Lead
Hidden 22/May/10 AltLd O/S
Liam FLeming 22/May/10 AltLd
Hjort 19/May/10 AltLd O/S

P2. Also P1 to retrieve the abseil rope.

JohnV 19/May/10 AltLd
with Hjort
Od 09/May/10 AltLd O/S

Great the chock stones

with Martyn "Noodles" Middleton
Noodles 08/May/10 AltLd

Great route, led pitch 2 where its all about the twist and change :)

Ows ?/May/10 Lead
Sardien 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Simon Moore
Laura-lou 17/Apr/10 2nd
Liam FLeming 10/Apr/10 -
with karen dalzell
MikeDowsett ??/2010 2nd
with Robin Stiffin, Alistair Gordon
innesmac ??/2010 -
The Ivanator 30/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

I led P1, then it started hammering down with rain, Stewart led straight up the slab to access a wild abseil down the intimidating end wall, all worked out OK in the end!

with Stewart
chippyjeff 13/Oct/09 2nd dog
with Ben R
Bennykr 13/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Awsome fun, went up different crack to finish which involved a footless mantle, Crazy!!!

aide 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Second time, good traditional route

with paul valentine
christensena 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

very polished

Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Sep/09 2nd
groovy_nut 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Chris
Hidden 02/Aug/09 2nd
cavemancolumbus ?/Aug/09 Lead
with Oli
Rob Pitt 29/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Helen Pitt
hepitt 29/Jun/09 2nd
with Rob Pitt
DrJon 19/Jun/09 2nd dog
with Dave Walsh & Pete
Jon Pilling 09/Jun/09 Lead dog

Had a Mare Jamming up the crack, plenty of pro tho!

with Si Williams
aide 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Good route, bold moves in places. New and old guide books show slightly different 2nd pitch with biog difference in difficulty.

with Dave Con
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
koopa ??/2009 -
Hidden ?/Nov/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/08 2nd O/S
peggy_on_the_rocks ?/Sep/08 2nd
with Dan
Martyn 25/Jul/08 2nd O/S

Well harder than grade suggested!

with Ryan Simpson
fizzychewitt 24/Jul/08 AltLd
with Dave Barnes
Hidden 23/Jul/08 Lead O/S
stefan7n 09/Jun/08 2nd
with The Radcliff, Sarah
adam06 09/Jun/08 AltLd
with Sarah Lewington and stefan roberts
igneouscarl 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
hapymike 17/May/08 Lead
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd
Hidden 17/Apr/08 Lead O/S
pnorth 16/Apr/08 AltLd

Awkward chimneys; back and feet required.

with Tim Ewington
Nigel R Lewis 05/Apr/08 AltLd

Lead pitches 2 and 3

with Dave, Tyrone saunders
davidjm 05/Apr/08 2nd
with Nigel L, Ty S
mol 17/Feb/08 Lead
with Fiona Bangs
Hidden ??/2008 -
ashsleight ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S

Hard route for the grade i felt. Felt more HS

with Rob King
EAYL 11/Sep/07 AltLd
with Dr.Strangeglove
bobpilgrem 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Found first pitch straighforward- chimney on second pitch a proper strenuous back and foot effort. Good pro all the way.

with Bob/Nic
RachelP 31/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Justin T 28/Jun/07 Lead O/S

The top pitch we did may not have been the right route - a strenuous jamming crack just above the belay - looked the right route from the guide but surely too hard for S...

with Wifey
Hidden 28/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Stig 24/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Gareth_Thomas 18/May/07 AltLd O/S

Having not properly lead outdoors for about a 3 weeks, month i shit my self on the first pitch! Retreated on the V-groove and let my partner lead that bit. The wind was blowing at 30mph which didn't help... I lead the second pitch though was an interesting climb....

with Nesquik Dave
Hidden 20/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Feb/07 AltLd
robo84 ??/2007 AltLd
fran04 ??/2007 2nd
Sean Kelly ??/2007 -
gregoldridge ??/2007 Lead O/S
deanroberts ??/2007 Lead O/S
Rob Laird 12/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
with AJ
beegsyboy 08/Sep/06 AltLd O/S

The groove on the 1st pitch is a bit of a b**tard!

with Eccie + Lewis
Neil Mackenzie 08/Sep/06 AltLd O/S

got a bit confused on second pitch, i say no more!

with Tim + Lewis
lewisl 08/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Tim and Bell
GuyC 17/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Pete K, Jon Bell
zcapxa5 28/May/06 Lead O/S
with Hanneke den Ouden
emlynroberts ??/2006 AltLd

I backed off first pitch with Gary, lead the 2nd pitch with si

with Si Creer
Hidden ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Oct/05 2nd
gripped01 ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Mark Catt
Gabe 06/Aug/05 2nd rpt
with Steve, Kat
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
Hidden ??/2005 -
platt2000 ??/2004 Lead
caradoc 16/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with john b
jimshrimp 25/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
Mark Riley ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Milly
Mark Riley ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Milly
unfit 19/Apr/03 AltLd
with matt w
Brown ??/2002 Solo O/S
fenn123 ??/2002 -
fenn123 ??/2002 -
Kerm ?/Jul/01 AltLd
migs493 09/Sep/00 Lead rpt
ZA ?/Jul/00 2nd
with dad
marcoleptic ??/2000 -
Hidden ?/Jul/99 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/99 -
Hidden 07/Aug/98 Lead O/S
andy007 17/May/98 AltLd O/S

very shiny (polished) good route though

with Uni group
sixties 13/May/98 AltLd
with hrd
smudge 03/May/98 Solo O/S
with Ant and Mike
zero six ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/97 Solo
BenTiffin 14/Jan/97 Lead
with Gareth Field
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Dom Goodwin 02/Nov/96 Lead
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Aug/96 Lead
iskra2000 30/May/96 Lead

R-hand crack, pitch 3

with Robert Powney
Hidden ??/1996 -
Hidden 22/Jul/95 Lead
Ian Archer 18/Sep/94 AltLd
with James Gunn
Mike_T0501 20/Aug/94 Lead
stokienomad 26/Sep/93 Lead
Mike_T0501 06/Jun/93 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/93 Lead O/S
DavPk ??/1993 AltLd
with Gareth Wood
sdht ??/1992 -
Hidden 04/Jul/91 2nd
Hidden 20/May/91 2nd
OMSKB ?/Jun/89 -
OMSKB ?/Jun/89 Lead
Hidden 07/May/89 2nd
Andy Say 29/Jun/88 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/87 AltLd
Ched ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Glyn
michael burrows 18/Oct/85 AltLd O/S

led 1st pitch

with steve morris
jon 24/Jun/85 Lead
with students
Backinthegame ?/May/85 Lead O/S
nigehughes ?/Jul/84 Lead
with Karl Greenwood
Hidden 29/Aug/83 Lead
charlesmfrench 26/Jun/83 Solo O/S
Hammy 19/Apr/79 AltLd
with Jonathon Stacey
Rob Davies 08/Apr/78 Lead
with John Lumley
mikej 01/Aug/77 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Hidden ??/1976 Lead
Bolt Phobia 25/Sep/74 AltLd
with Steve Astington
Mike Owen ?/Aug/74 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
Nigel Bond 31/Mar/74 Lead
with Dave Jolliffe
Bob M ?/Jun/73 -
with Keith Raftery, James Crawshaw
Rog Wilko ?/Feb/71 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
rockofades ?/Aug/70 Lead
with LB
rob from scotland ??/1970 Lead

bit of an epic!

Gordon Stainforth 02/Aug/68 AltLd

'Top quite difficult'

with John Stainforth
uphillnow ??/1967 Solo
auldscotal ??/1965 AltLd O/S
with John Jones
kjacks ??/1964 2nd

Just V Diff in our old Cwm Idwal Guide!

with Dave Peers
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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 25
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set