Rockfax Description
A belter of a route if you like things a little bit traditional. The wobbly flake prompted Kirkus to say "The prospect of finding a sheltered chimney transformed into an overhanging face by the sudden departure of one of the walls is alarming!". Start below the flake and use Herford's Crack to gain a ledge. Move up and left to gain the thinner left-hand crack at a polished ledge/jug. Move up into the slot, past a thread, and chimney up the far side. Make a mind-bending step onto the tip of the pinnacle without pushing too hard as the whole thing moves slightly. A step onto the wall leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, Michelle's crack ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
cragtyke 2 Jul 2nd Very entertaining route, no real thrutching needed.
Very entertaining route, no real thrutching needed.
Deezel65 2 Jul Lead O/S Unusual, memorable, weird and brilliant - just the right side of scary to be fun.
Unusual, memorable, weird and brilliant - just the right side of scary to be fun.
Hidden 9 Jun 2nd rpt
Happyguyme 19 May TR
Anti-faff ?? 2nd
with Jas Wood
with Jas Wood
Jodiaway 10 Oct, 2018 2nd
Max Streeton 10 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Fun climb.
Fun climb.
paulsross 5 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Gareth Edwards
with Gareth Edwards
petegruf 21 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf Polished. Backed off at 5 m when I realised I'd have to jam or use slippery laybacks.
Polished. Backed off at 5 m when I realised I'd have to jam or use slippery laybacks.
ChristyCole 21 Jul, 2018 TR O/S On shunt
On shunt
*superchilled 18 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Proper old-school. Step off the top of the flake felt quite out-there.
with Makhani
Proper old-school. Step off the top of the flake felt quite out-there.
with Makhani
Makhani 18 Jul, 2018 2nd
ccliff 29 Jun, 2018 - challenging old fashioned route
with dave
challenging old fashioned route
with dave
Hidden 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
neal 21 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Entertaining.
with Dan
Entertaining.
with Dan
PeteWilson 18 May, 2018 2nd O/S Scary even on second! Pretty out there for VS
with John P
Scary even on second! Pretty out there for VS
with John P
Shaw Brown 6 May, 2018 Lead
judith neaves 6 May, 2018 2nd
Michelle W 4 May, 2018 2nd β
with Alex
with Alex
Terry Cruise ?Jan, 2018 Lead O/S ended up off withing the top crack dragging the only cam which would fit, exhausting but mega fun
ended up off withing the top crack dragging the only cam which would fit, exhausting but mega fun
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Sam Coupe 27 Oct, 2017 Lead
with Gabby Smith
with Gabby Smith
Keith Swainson 27 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Georgie25 27 Aug, 2017 2nd
Craigyboy13 9 Jul, 2017 2nd amazing route!!
amazing route!!
Archbishop 24 Jun, 2017 2nd
with Dan Shacklock
with Dan Shacklock
Nomes 25 May, 2017 2nd I did NOT nearly puke, my husband is just being dramatic. I did cry though. 3 times.
I did NOT nearly puke, my husband is just being dramatic. I did cry though. 3 times.
darrenpp 25 May, 2017 Lead O/S Climbed with the wife on our honeymoon. Found it insanely hard for 4c! Wife was so scared she cried and nearly puked, thought she was gonna annul the marriage. Obviously 3 stars.
with Nomes
Climbed with the wife on our honeymoon. Found it insanely hard for 4c! Wife was so scared she cried and nearly puked, thought she was gonna annul the marriage. Obviously 3 stars.
with Nomes
James Worthington 4 May, 2017 Lead
Keith Swainson ??, 2017 - Amazing, surely these things are built on purpose for our entertainment.
Amazing, surely these things are built on purpose for our entertainment.
Matadoors 15 Oct, 2016 TR
emlynroberts 15 Oct, 2016 TR Fell off low down
Fell off low down
superturbo 8 Oct, 2016 Lead Highly agricultural
Highly agricultural
guy127917 8 Oct, 2016 2nd Green and slippery
Green and slippery
Markheighton 21 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
gravity 17 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with James Gregory
with James Gregory
khalidq 17 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with Mikael Brudfors
with Mikael Brudfors
Hidden 29 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
gwynjones 23 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S Awesome route, especially the finish. Hard initial moves.
Awesome route, especially the finish. Hard initial moves.
tedburt 14 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Aaron Burdett
with Aaron Burdett
Rob McGurk 22 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Hard bottom and bold top. Might not have been the best thing to jump on immediately after falling on Herfords Crack, but a very nice route!
with AliceJS
Hard bottom and bold top. Might not have been the best thing to jump on immediately after falling on Herfords Crack, but a very nice route!
with AliceJS
AliceJS 22 Jun, 2016 2nd
Andrew Barker 16 May, 2016 2nd Great fun.
with Chris M
Great fun.
with Chris M
Hidden 16 May, 2016 Lead
Rosie Henstock 14 May, 2016 Lead O/S Exhilarating finale!
with TGreen
Exhilarating finale!
with TGreen
TGreen 14 May, 2016 2nd O/S
Zakko 13 May, 2016 Lead O/S Really enjoyed this. Chimney was awesome. Abbed down for the hell of it
Really enjoyed this. Chimney was awesome. Abbed down for the hell of it
Dronz 2 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
James Beaumont 2 Oct, 2015 Lead rpt
with Max
with Max
TheaSmea 16 Jun, 2015 2nd
with Stopsy
with Stopsy
Stopsy 16 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
ReubenS1990 ?May, 2015 2nd O/S
adamre12 18 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S What a route! Very intimidating, but great fun. Well worth it.
with JamesA
What a route! Very intimidating, but great fun. Well worth it.
with JamesA
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Apr, 2015 Lead
JessWilliams 14 Mar, 2015 2nd
OliverRoss 14 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
with Jess, Chris Bulman
with Jess, Chris Bulman
Pete_Frost 21 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Big cams (Camalots 4, 5 & 6) will really ease the tension on this route. Great fun.
with Megan Beaumont
Big cams (Camalots 4, 5 & 6) will really ease the tension on this route. Great fun.
with Megan Beaumont
Nigel Coe 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Pete Kelly
with Pete Kelly
Ewan Russell 17 Jun, 2014 Solo O/S
with Myself!
with Myself!
tmawer 15 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S Great historic route.
Great historic route.
BTphonehome 15 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S High quality struggle/entertainment for climber/belayer to finish a great weekend.
with tmawer
High quality struggle/entertainment for climber/belayer to finish a great weekend.
with tmawer
willyboy 16 May, 2014 2nd
sheelba 3 May, 2014 Lead
Si ??, 2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 2nd
with Mike McGill
with Mike McGill
J.Atkins 16 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S
tedswag 16 Nov, 2013 2nd O/S
ianbowles 30 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Fun getting to crack from Herfords, step across from flake exciting, once onto slab home free, first use of double ropes
with Max Bardwell
Fun getting to crack from Herfords, step across from flake exciting, once onto slab home free, first use of double ropes
with Max Bardwell
JamesLloyd 12 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
partz 12 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
demarcation86 4 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
manxclare 16 Jun, 2013 2nd
Lenny 16 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with John
with John
John sealey 16 Jun, 2013 Lead
CragDog 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
tim20 ??, 2013 -
hrgcb 9 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with Virgil Scott
with Virgil Scott
bobpilgrem 25 May, 2012 Lead O/S Great route-especially standing on top of the flake.
with Tom/Nic
Great route-especially standing on top of the flake.
with Tom/Nic
tompilgrem 25 May, 2012 2nd O/S
with Nick/D, bobpilgrem
with Nick/D, bobpilgrem
Andy_B39 23 May, 2012 2nd rpt
with Sam Tolhurst
with Sam Tolhurst
Hidden ??, 2012 2nd
dan ely 15 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with forest
with forest
victim of mathematics 5 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S Amusing, and probably worth 2 stars.
Amusing, and probably worth 2 stars.
Bex_M 4 Jun, 2011 2nd
farmus21 28 May, 2011 2nd Fun....the flake is unnerving.
with Tim
Fun....the flake is unnerving.
with Tim
Sam Marland 15 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
Jillybean 9 Apr, 2011 2nd
with Noodles
with Noodles
Noodles 9 Apr, 2011 Lead Mega exposure when at the top and crossing the gap!
Mega exposure when at the top and crossing the gap!
Hidden ?Apr, 2011 2nd
Hidden ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
djromberg ??, 2011 -
Lee Groves ?Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Allington
with Charlie Allington
adam06 15 Aug, 2010 Lead very very wet on the back and footing + the top bit.. made the move onto the face at the top a bit scary. good classic route where protection hasn't improved
with dan sturman
very very wet on the back and footing + the top bit.. made the move onto the face at the top a bit scary. good classic route where protection hasn't improved
with dan sturman
Hidden 15 Jul, 2010 2nd
Hidden 5 Jul, 2010 AltLd
matt25 28 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 May, 2010 2nd
Hidden 22 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
HansUDes 1 May, 2010 TR O/S self belay
self belay
Sarahcrowsley 26 Apr, 2010 Lead
innesmac ??, 2010 -
aide 26 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Brilliant route, feels great stepping ontop of the flake and accross to good holds..
with paul valentine
Brilliant route, feels great stepping ontop of the flake and accross to good holds..
with paul valentine
benchwarmer ?Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Skinny Kin 29 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S Bit disconcerting with moving flake at the top; especially you have to wedge it open!
with Ed Russell
Bit disconcerting with moving flake at the top; especially you have to wedge it open!
with Ed Russell
matjaques ?May, 2009 Lead
with Serinda
with Serinda
Sardien 5 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
with Matthew Jaques
with Matthew Jaques
Sgt. Vest 18 May, 2007 2nd O/S
with Hjort
with Hjort
Hjort 18 May, 2007 2nd O/S
TonyP 17 Apr, 2007 Lead
with Dylan
with Dylan
TonyP 17 Apr, 2007 Lead
with Dylan
with Dylan
tumbling wizard ?Apr, 2007 Lead
Hidden ??, 2006 -
caradoc 19 Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S
with john b
with john b
John Marsland 11 May, 2005 Lead
with Ant Williams
with Ant Williams
Sut 18 May, 2004 Lead O/S
Ian Archer 1 Jun, 2002 2nd
with Alan Segar
with Alan Segar
Iain Brown 6 May, 2002 -
with Rich C
with Rich C
Brown ??, 2002 Solo O/S
BenTiffin 18 Jun, 1999 Lead
Nettle 12 Jun, 1998 2nd β * - 80ft - 4c,4b - Bill Billingsley
with Bill Billingsley
* - 80ft - 4c,4b - Bill Billingsley
with Bill Billingsley
michael burrows 22 Jun, 1997 2nd
with steve ward
with steve ward
Hidden 8 Oct, 1996 -
Rob Davies ?Sep, 1995 Lead Scary
with Dave Ellis
Scary
with Dave Ellis
Hidden 20 May, 1991 2nd
barryjacks 1 Sep, 1990 2nd
michaelb1 ?Jun, 1990 AltLd
Ched ??, 1990 Lead O/S
with Glyn
with Glyn
Nick Biven ??, 1990 -
Nick Biven ??, 1990 -
nigehughes ?Apr, 1988 Lead
with Ian Maguire
with Ian Maguire
Hidden 10 Nov, 1984 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 1984 Lead
Hammy 19 Jun, 1979 Lead
with Jonathon Stacey
with Jonathon Stacey
Ian Jones ?Sep, 1978 Lead O/S
with Chris Newton
with Chris Newton
mikej 1 Aug, 1977 2nd
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
babymoac ??, 1977 -
with MTW SWH Babs
with MTW SWH Babs
Bolt Phobia 12 Oct, 1974 Lead
Mike Owen ?Aug, 1974 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
with John Roberts
Bob M ?Apr, 1974 -
with Geraldine King
with Geraldine King
Nigel Bond 11 Aug, 1973 Lead
with Alan
with Alan
kjacks ??, 1965 2nd
with Dave Peers
with Dave Peers
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 22
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set