3 pitches. Variation start from toe of buttress. Excellent climbing.

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Robertgiddy 10 Feb AltLd Didn't realize this was a harder variation so that was a good ego boost when we checked the guide! Untrafficed routes hard work atm
Didn't realize this was a harder variation so that was a good ego boost when we checked the guide! Untrafficed routes hard work atm
iainballantyne 10 Feb AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Feb AltLd O/S
Rob_Morris1996 7 Feb AltLd O/S Robbie did very well on the tough first pitch. I took the easy ground pitches. The ledge and corner pitch was great fun with sinker hooks abundant.
Robbie did very well on the tough first pitch. I took the easy ground pitches. The ledge and corner pitch was great fun with sinker hooks abundant.
Robbie Blease 7 Feb Lead O/S
with Rob Morris
with Rob Morris
Misha 27 Jan AltLd O/S Good early season conditions after a turbo thaw over the previous two days. Snow gates shut and fair bit of fresh snow so took 3.5 hours to walk in. Opted for this route as it’s a bit sheltered and doesn’t top out. The wind dropped through the afternoon anyway so it wasn’t too bad, just cold. I must have taken 2 hours to lead the variation start pitch. Not steep but very tenuous with not many good hooks and not much good gear (using Andy’s rack didn’t help). Probably easier with a bit of ice and neve but aren’t they all... Andy did the next pitch, belaying on a flake on the exposed traverse - great place for a stance! I then went up the obvious corner groove just after Andy’s belay. Relatively steep but on good hooks and gear, felt like light relief after P1! Took it up to easy ground. We then went up the easy ground to just below the plateau and downclimbee Alladin’s. The walk out wasn’t too bad but couldn’t find the path. 4.5 hours for the route and an 11.5 hour round trip - not the best ratio but never mind...
Good early season conditions after a turbo thaw over the previous two days. Snow gates shut and fair bit of fresh snow so took 3.5 hours to walk in. Opted for this route as it’s a bit sheltered and doesn’t top out. The wind dropped through the afternoon anyway so it wasn’t too bad, just cold. I must have taken 2 hours to lead the variation start pitch. Not steep but very tenuous with not many good hooks and not much good gear (using Andy’s rack didn’t help). Probably easier with a bit of ice and neve but aren’t they all... Andy did the next pitch, belaying on a flake on the exposed traverse - great place for a stance! I then went up the obvious corner groove just after Andy’s belay. Relatively steep but on good hooks and gear, felt like light relief after P1! Took it up to easy ground. We then went up the easy ground to just below the plateau and downclimbee Alladin’s. The walk out wasn’t too bad but couldn’t find the path. 4.5 hours for the route and an 11.5 hour round trip - not the best ratio but never mind...
Hidden 20 Jan AltLd
Flatland 19 Jan AltLd Stunning day. Direct start arguably no harder technically that upper grove.
with Jon Ascroft
Stunning day. Direct start arguably no harder technically that upper grove.
with Jon Ascroft
AliGilmour 19 Jan AltLd dnf Lovely evening for a moonlight bail.
with Harry Pulham, Liam Watson
Lovely evening for a moonlight bail.
with Harry Pulham, Liam Watson
Dave Payne 19 Jan 2nd
with Alan S, Colin Dyer
with Alan S, Colin Dyer
Colin Dyer 19 Jan Lead Good climbing. Well protected when cracks are dry. Steady at the grade.
Good climbing. Well protected when cracks are dry. Steady at the grade.
Liam Watson 19 Jan AltLd dnf Plan D of the day, after Hells Lum being rather black. Bailed off after halfway up the second pitche as the light disappeared. And saving the normal route for the onsight.
with Harry Pulham, AliGilmour
Plan D of the day, after Hells Lum being rather black. Bailed off after halfway up the second pitche as the light disappeared. And saving the normal route for the onsight.
with Harry Pulham, AliGilmour
Jasc 19 Jan AltLd Drifted left on P2, but interesting enough moving back right onto P3 crux
with Tony
Drifted left on P2, but interesting enough moving back right onto P3 crux
with Tony
Matthew Glenn 17 Dec, 2018 Lead Done in 2 pitches. I did 1 nicky did 2. Not much neve but some turf was frozen higher up.
with Nicky
Done in 2 pitches. I did 1 nicky did 2. Not much neve but some turf was frozen higher up.
with Nicky
08nbrierley 17 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S Done in 2 pitches, I lead second
with matt
Done in 2 pitches, I lead second
with matt
Matthew Glenn ?Nov, 2018 -
DaveHK 2 Jan, 2018 AltLd
Captain Solo 2 Jan, 2018 AltLd
with DaveHK
with DaveHK
lanky 31 Dec, 2017 AltLd windy humid day, fell in the stream on the way out. soaked
with Sharpey
windy humid day, fell in the stream on the way out. soaked
with Sharpey
DaveThexton 3 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
Jenn_Stretton 3 Mar, 2016 2nd
akhughes 2 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S Work. Better way of starting route
Work. Better way of starting route
akhughes 2 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S Work.
Work.
Alfie Maun 27 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S Accidentally did the direct start. Brilliant route in great condition with unbelievably good weather!
with Adam Bowman
Accidentally did the direct start. Brilliant route in great condition with unbelievably good weather!
with Adam Bowman
Hidden 16 Jan, 2016 2nd
magicmartin 27 Feb, 2015 2nd dnf Ryan bailed as the ice and snow where non existent.
with Ryan
Ryan bailed as the ice and snow where non existent.
with Ryan
Hidden 26 Feb, 2015 2nd O/S
OliverRoss 2 Feb, 2015 2nd
Hidden 2 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Feb, 2015 AltLd
tim20 ??, 2015 -
plain kitten ??, 2015 -
Hidden 27 Mar, 2014 -
Hidden 27 Mar, 2014 2nd
wi11 1 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S P1
with Dan Bergo
P1
with Dan Bergo
Hidden 28 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Feb, 2014 2nd O/S
drsdave 24 Feb, 2014 2nd
Hidden 24 Feb, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S
gergosantha 27 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S
davesykes 27 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S Good lead in v difficult conditions on tricky variation start - well worth doing and hard to protect
Good lead in v difficult conditions on tricky variation start - well worth doing and hard to protect
Hidden 14 Jan, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 5 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S
nclarey 4 Jan, 2014 2nd
with Kirill
with Kirill
Kirill 4 Jan, 2014 Lead Not sure why I chose this route to introduce Nick to Scottish Winter, but it must have worked as he's now hooked! Great weekend overall despite unlikely forecast.
with nclarey
Not sure why I chose this route to introduce Nick to Scottish Winter, but it must have worked as he's now hooked! Great weekend overall despite unlikely forecast.
with nclarey
Hidden 16 Dec, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 16 Dec, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 22 Feb, 2013 AltLd
Clevelandclimber 22 Feb, 2013 AltLd
Ronan72 4 Jan, 2012 2nd RP
with Jiefei Ma,BorisVBlade
with Jiefei Ma,BorisVBlade
Hidden ??, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 27 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
James Gordon ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 1991 Lead
1 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 12
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set