Rockfax Description
The best line up the main slab gives good sustained climbing that is never desperate. Start as for Ordinary Route.
1) 4c, 35m. Climb the wall to ledges below a forked diagonal crack. Climb the right-hand branch of this until you can pull back up left to a ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb up a shallow scoop above and right, past a fixed sling. A groove leads up and left to a belay by a spike next to a ledge.
3) 4b, 15m. Climb up and slightly left to a good ledge.
4) 4c, 20m. Climb up to a bulging section and pass this on the right. Easier ground leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, Kirkus Routes, High Quality Adventure routes, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, Adventure ticklist 2018, UK Holiday Plans, The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Colin Kirkus' routes

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UserDateNotes
Tim Francis 7 May Show βeta
βeta: Top route, one of the best mountain VS routes in Wales?!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top route, one of the best mountain VS routes in Wales?!
cpoad 4 Aug, 2017 Show βeta
βeta: Care needed with route finding.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Care needed with route finding.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Clegm 19 Sep AltLd
alan moore 14 Sep - A brisk and blowy September morning and a great outing whose sum is better than it's parts. Easy to follow as every belay is festooned with tat. The magnificent and airy top pitch felt about Severe. Well worth the trips from Scotland and Devon respectively.
with Dad
A brisk and blowy September morning and a great outing whose sum is better than it's parts. Easy to follow as every belay is festooned with tat. The magnificent and airy top pitch felt about Severe. Well worth the trips from Scotland and Devon respectively.
with Dad
Hidden 8 Sep AltLd rpt
smithjmw46 1 Sep AltLd O/S
mussonlr 1 Sep AltLd
Bristol_Quornstar 26 Aug Lead O/S Guiding Rohan on a balmy bank holiday Monday to escape the crowds. Single 50m was suffice and nice stances including one semi-hanging to mix it up.
with Working
Guiding Rohan on a balmy bank holiday Monday to escape the crowds. Single 50m was suffice and nice stances including one semi-hanging to mix it up.
with Working
Colin Scotchford 26 Aug Lead
Giles Davis 25 Aug AltLd O/S Nice techy climbing on unusual rock. Lots of side pulls and balancy moves.
with Lloyd, VPJB
Nice techy climbing on unusual rock. Lots of side pulls and balancy moves.
with Lloyd, VPJB
VPJB 25 Aug -
Chris Manasseh 24 Aug AltLd Did 1+2 of the direct then finished up the original. Led 2 & 4
with Stuart Hesketh
Did 1+2 of the direct then finished up the original. Led 2 & 4
with Stuart Hesketh
Edale 24 Aug AltLd
with Yvonne
with Yvonne
Hidden 3 Aug -
Hidden 29 Jul AltLd O/S
rajen5713 18 Jul AltLd
Derek Heppinstall 18 Jul AltLd O/S
James Oakes 14 Jul Lead O/S Possibly too far left on p3.
Possibly too far left on p3.
richy85 13 Jul 2nd O/S
with JonesE
with JonesE
JonesE 13 Jul Lead O/S P1+P3. Excellent sustained climbing. Whole crag had wet streaks down it but only had to dodge a bit of wetness a couple of times. I'm sure I did part of the direct variant on P3, up a vertical wall on pockets. Abbed off top.
with richy85
P1+P3. Excellent sustained climbing. Whole crag had wet streaks down it but only had to dodge a bit of wetness a couple of times. I'm sure I did part of the direct variant on P3, up a vertical wall on pockets. Abbed off top.
with richy85
LucaC 22 Jun Lead O/S
with Kam
with Kam
Kimberley Maiyh 22 Jun 2nd O/S
with dutchman
with dutchman
Si 20 Jun Lead Stepped left off the top pitch and went onto to the top of Central variant. Topo definitely wrong in Rockfax mini guide!
with Luke P
Stepped left off the top pitch and went onto to the top of Central variant. Topo definitely wrong in Rockfax mini guide!
with Luke P
Graeme Hammond 21 May Lead O/S Lacks a stand out line but the climbing fantastic with good stances. Someone has recently cleaned out many of the runner placements on p3 making it more enjoyable, this pitch looks unlikely at the grade with all the overlaps but climbs nicely, 4c mind. Overall one of the better VS climbs in N Wales, worth 3*.
with Becky E
Lacks a stand out line but the climbing fantastic with good stances. Someone has recently cleaned out many of the runner placements on p3 making it more enjoyable, this pitch looks unlikely at the grade with all the overlaps but climbs nicely, 4c mind. Overall one of the better VS climbs in N Wales, worth 3*.
with Becky E
Tim Francis 7 May AltLd Top route, one of the best mountain VS routes in Wales?!
with ian
Top route, one of the best mountain VS routes in Wales?!
with ian
Hidden 22 Apr 2nd
wolf.leeb 22 Apr Lead O/S 2 big pitches, top is lovely. impressive crag.
with Alexis
2 big pitches, top is lovely. impressive crag.
with Alexis
adam001 22 Apr 2nd Guide books all describe a different route, especially for the last pitch. We took the rightward trending overlap, left and round as it trends left. Then went too far right and had to go into the corner and pull over a bulge to find easier ground. All in all a great day, nice and quiet even on a gloriously sunny bank holiday Monday
Guide books all describe a different route, especially for the last pitch. We took the rightward trending overlap, left and round as it trends left. Then went too far right and had to go into the corner and pull over a bulge to find easier ground. All in all a great day, nice and quiet even on a gloriously sunny bank holiday Monday
Hidden 22 Apr Lead O/S
cymjt 21 Apr AltLd O/S I linked P1+2, Jamie linked P3+4. Early start to beat the crowds. Topped out by 11:45, back at the van by 1230 and home for a BBQ by 1315!
I linked P1+2, Jamie linked P3+4. Early start to beat the crowds. Topped out by 11:45, back at the van by 1230 and home for a BBQ by 1315!
lithos 21 Apr AltLd P2,P4 thus time in baking sun P1 is crux I think, $c then 4b to the top. Id run P3&4 to gether in one mega pocket filled pitch next time
P2,P4 thus time in baking sun P1 is crux I think, $c then 4b to the top. Id run P3&4 to gether in one mega pocket filled pitch next time
annamairead 21 Apr AltLd O/S Led P1, climbed as a three
Led P1, climbed as a three
bummingham 21 Apr AltLd O/S Lead Pitch 2 and 3.5.
with Anna Flemming, Stewart Moodie
Lead Pitch 2 and 3.5.
with Anna Flemming, Stewart Moodie
peterbradshaw101 21 Apr AltLd
with lithos
with lithos
Hidden 20 Apr Solo O/S
Glyn Davidson 19 Apr AltLd Climbed as a three. Lead p2 and p4. Fantastic, clean rock with consistant climbing throughout. Gear is a bit naff though and the chances of going off route are quite high, would deserve 3 stars otherwise.
with Marty Wall, useful
Climbed as a three. Lead p2 and p4. Fantastic, clean rock with consistant climbing throughout. Gear is a bit naff though and the chances of going off route are quite high, would deserve 3 stars otherwise.
with Marty Wall, useful
useful 19 Apr AltLd I led pitch 1 & 3. Lovely route, when you can find the right way : there were a many variations as the 4 guide books I looked at!
with Marty W MTA, Glyn Davidson
I led pitch 1 & 3. Lovely route, when you can find the right way : there were a many variations as the 4 guide books I looked at!
with Marty W MTA, Glyn Davidson
richfitz 19 Apr Lead O/S
with Andrea
with Andrea
Hidden 30 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 30 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Some tricky route finding and felt some of the pitches are misgraded. P2 definitely 4c and P4 definitely not 4c. Kudos to Zoe for carrying rucksack all the way to avoid heinous descent down gully.
Some tricky route finding and felt some of the pitches are misgraded. P2 definitely 4c and P4 definitely not 4c. Kudos to Zoe for carrying rucksack all the way to avoid heinous descent down gully.
Hidden 11 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Just_Waltr 5 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Josh Butler 5 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Climbed the first three pitches as described, then lead the final pitch of Central Variation instead of the original, pitch described.
Climbed the first three pitches as described, then lead the final pitch of Central Variation instead of the original, pitch described.
Dawn_K_B 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd dnf
Tarquin 13 Jun, 2018 -
with Louvet
with Louvet
Louvet 13 Jun, 2018 -
with Tarquin
with Tarquin
Sarah Roscoe 12 Jun, 2018 2nd
Matt Harmon 12 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt led all pitches
led all pitches
Hidden 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Harry Padley 6 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Took a more direct line from belay 2 which combined the original with the direct route
Took a more direct line from belay 2 which combined the original with the direct route
john lynch 20 May, 2018 AltLd O/S First time to the crag and bad a great day. Lovely long slab route with great rock.
First time to the crag and bad a great day. Lovely long slab route with great rock.
Bethan May Davies 20 May, 2018 AltLd
Stone Muppet 19 May, 2018 Lead dnf The line on the photo topo in North Wales Classics is completely wrong for pitch 3 and 4. The route stays right of the leftwards trending diagonal line of overlaps for both of these pitches, not left of them as shown on the topo (that line being taken by a rather untravelled and grotty Central Variant). The text description makes more sense once you know this. We escaped left from Central Variant - wrote this up as Wrongfax Variant if you make the same mistake and want to log it... sure we're not the first!
with jg
The line on the photo topo in North Wales Classics is completely wrong for pitch 3 and 4. The route stays right of the leftwards trending diagonal line of overlaps for both of these pitches, not left of them as shown on the topo (that line being taken by a rather untravelled and grotty Central Variant). The text description makes more sense once you know this. We escaped left from Central Variant - wrote this up as Wrongfax Variant if you make the same mistake and want to log it... sure we're not the first!
with jg
ben1987 13 May, 2018 Lead O/S
John Nuttall 7 May, 2018 Lead
with Sharon
with Sharon
Hidden 6 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Iain_L_32 6 May, 2018 Lead
ned_85 5 May, 2018 AltLd
with Nadia Howlett, OliverRoss
with Nadia Howlett, OliverRoss
Hidden 5 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
OliverRoss 5 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
with ned_85
with ned_85
methuselah ??, 2018 -
Climbingspike ??, 2018 -
Hidden ??, 2018 -
chriswood ??, 2018 -
Hidden 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
my 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Great little adventure - use latest North Wales Rockfax for topo and description which is correct, and don't leave it in the car relying on other guidebooks! Mini mountain route - me P1, Joseph P2, Matt T P3, Joseph P4 (HVS, oops!).
Great little adventure - use latest North Wales Rockfax for topo and description which is correct, and don't leave it in the car relying on other guidebooks! Mini mountain route - me P1, Joseph P2, Matt T P3, Joseph P4 (HVS, oops!).
twildingsteele 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with LukeWS
with LukeWS
LukeWS 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Aug, 2017 -
cpoad 4 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Care needed with route finding.
with Clare F
Care needed with route finding.
with Clare F
Hidden 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd dnf
sdixon 22 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Andy PCC
with Andy PCC
pftom 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead P1, 3&4
with Col Kingshott
Lead P1, 3&4
with Col Kingshott
Col Kingshott 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Agree with everyone else. The description doesn't match the climb. More 4c than mentioned in Rockfax. The description submitted in the thread is better. However, top route and brill crag.
Agree with everyone else. The description doesn't match the climb. More 4c than mentioned in Rockfax. The description submitted in the thread is better. However, top route and brill crag.
johnself1603 24 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 20 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2017 2nd
Rob84 18 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Fantastic route with some classy climbing and a stunning location. The first and last pitches have the best climbing, but it's all pretty good - well worth a look.
with mel_1
Fantastic route with some classy climbing and a stunning location. The first and last pitches have the best climbing, but it's all pretty good - well worth a look.
with mel_1
Pero 26 May, 2017 Lead
jobiehoar 20 May, 2017 2nd O/S
with Paul Winder
with Paul Winder
Matt Schwarz 19 May, 2017 AltLd O/S I led 1 and 4. 4 was amazing and loozed blank from the belay. Andy linked 2-3.
with Andy m
I led 1 and 4. 4 was amazing and loozed blank from the belay. Andy linked 2-3.
with Andy m
Hidden 18 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Mark Eddy 10 May, 2017 AltLd
with Kelly, Neil
with Kelly, Neil
Hidden 5 May, 2017 AltLd
jennifer.hack 29 Apr, 2017 2nd
with Will Smith
with Will Smith
tom0129 15 Apr, 2017 AltLd
BHuthers 9 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Led P2 and 4. Excellent climb, quite atmospheric in the mist and damp in places.
with Tom Carrick
Led P2 and 4. Excellent climb, quite atmospheric in the mist and damp in places.
with Tom Carrick
TCarrick 9 Apr, 2017 - Definitely agree with post below, pitch three it definitely 4c
Definitely agree with post below, pitch three it definitely 4c
hotfeet 26 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
with scree
with scree
scree 26 Mar, 2017 -
robpartridge 22 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
with Sarah
with Sarah
huwaaron 13 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2 and 4, Was with Steve, was a sunny day, windy but we were sheltered on the crag. Pitch 4 was the crux pitch but the best pitch too. Ste gaining logs for his MIA training.
Lead pitch 2 and 4, Was with Steve, was a sunny day, windy but we were sheltered on the crag. Pitch 4 was the crux pitch but the best pitch too. Ste gaining logs for his MIA training.
lithos 8 Oct, 2016 Lead dnf P1. started to rain, then some more, and more. Climbed nervously past the left step (route descriptions in guides are are poor) and into the sentry box (as opposed to a niche!) of Kirkus direct and climbed up to the flakes. bailed off some tat and cleaned (still in the rain) and ran away.
P1. started to rain, then some more, and more. Climbed nervously past the left step (route descriptions in guides are are poor) and into the sentry box (as opposed to a niche!) of Kirkus direct and climbed up to the flakes. bailed off some tat and cleaned (still in the rain) and ran away.
patrickcd 2 Oct, 2016 AltLd
with Andy
with Andy
Ewan Russell 23 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S 2nd and 3rd in one. a windy day!
with David macintyre
2nd and 3rd in one. a windy day!
with David macintyre
Hidden 19 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
JMM 19 Sep, 2016 AltLd
with Flashy
with Flashy
Wayne S 19 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Great route with the main difficulties being route finding. Not helped by Route Description: The best line up the main slab gives good sustained climbing that is never desperate. Start as for Ordinary Route. 1) 4c, 35m. Climb the wall to ledges below a forked diagonal crack. Climb the right-hand branch of this until you can pull back up left to a ledge and belay. (More a rightward traverse at the top of RH crack than a continuation, before moving up and left to belay). 2) 4b, 15m. Climb up a shallow scoop above and right, past a fixed sling. A groove leads up and left to a belay by a spike next to a ledge. (25m of rope out, was wet, which seems common as is a drainage line, only seemed hard due to wet, maybe 4a in reality). 3) 4b, 15m. Climb up and slightly left to a good ledge. (more than 15m of rope out, prob 18-20m, through two sections of overlaps with good gear, climbing is 4c imho). 4) 4c, 20m. Climb up to a bulging section and pass this on the right. Easier ground leads to the top. (Climb onto the top of some ledges/spikes towards left skyline, make steep and slightly bold moves out right onto a wall using good edges and pockets. Easy climbing to the top.
Great route with the main difficulties being route finding. Not helped by Route Description: The best line up the main slab gives good sustained climbing that is never desperate. Start as for Ordinary Route. 1) 4c, 35m. Climb the wall to ledges below a forked diagonal crack. Climb the right-hand branch of this until you can pull back up left to a ledge and belay. (More a rightward traverse at the top of RH crack than a continuation, before moving up and left to belay). 2) 4b, 15m. Climb up a shallow scoop above and right, past a fixed sling. A groove leads up and left to a belay by a spike next to a ledge. (25m of rope out, was wet, which seems common as is a drainage line, only seemed hard due to wet, maybe 4a in reality). 3) 4b, 15m. Climb up and slightly left to a good ledge. (more than 15m of rope out, prob 18-20m, through two sections of overlaps with good gear, climbing is 4c imho). 4) 4c, 20m. Climb up to a bulging section and pass this on the right. Easier ground leads to the top. (Climb onto the top of some ledges/spikes towards left skyline, make steep and slightly bold moves out right onto a wall using good edges and pockets. Easy climbing to the top.
Flashy 19 Sep, 2016 AltLd P1 and 3. Fantastic. Thought 4c, 4b, 4c, 4c. P2 wet but didn't affect the climbing.
with JMM
P1 and 3. Fantastic. Thought 4c, 4b, 4c, 4c. P2 wet but didn't affect the climbing.
with JMM
lynchit 29 Aug, 2016 AltLd Greate route- Led P1, P3
with James Hulme
Greate route- Led P1, P3
with James Hulme
gwynjones 15 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
myrddinmuse 15 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Hard to find the correct line, and I suspect I wandered onto direct at times. A foothold blew out on me mid P4 but managed to hold it. A medium sized block was also lying on some diagonal grass mid pitch, so decided to get rid of it before it hurt anyone. Great technical climbing, great positions and exposure, bang on the grade.
Hard to find the correct line, and I suspect I wandered onto direct at times. A foothold blew out on me mid P4 but managed to hold it. A medium sized block was also lying on some diagonal grass mid pitch, so decided to get rid of it before it hurt anyone. Great technical climbing, great positions and exposure, bang on the grade.
bigbobbyking 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd First two pitches were good, but couldn't workout where pitch 3/4 went. Confusing maze of overlaps. With rain threatening ended up traversing out left
with Myr
First two pitches were good, but couldn't workout where pitch 3/4 went. Confusing maze of overlaps. With rain threatening ended up traversing out left
with Myr
Hidden 5 Aug, 2016 2nd
Harry Ellis 5 Aug, 2016 Lead Threatened rain, but stayed dry. Amy's first mountain route
with Toffle
Threatened rain, but stayed dry. Amy's first mountain route
with Toffle
Hidden ?Aug, 2016 AltLd
leethebee 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd G/U
with Richard Howarth, Stella Wyn Thomas
with Richard Howarth, Stella Wyn Thomas
Pinguville 19 Jul, 2016 2nd real steady climbing found it pretty easy , on second , felt low in grade to me
real steady climbing found it pretty easy , on second , felt low in grade to me
George_Surf 18 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Very nice, not difficult route finding like I was expecting.
Very nice, not difficult route finding like I was expecting.
Hidden 29 May, 2016 2nd O/S
MoWalker3 29 May, 2016 -
with DavidK, Andy
with DavidK, Andy
JendeHoxar 29 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Jez
with Jez
Ian Miller 23 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S Freezing!!!
Freezing!!!
Cheese Monkey 23 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
The_Boy_ODwyer 13 Apr, 2016 AltLd
mike lawrence? 13 Apr, 2016 AltLd
suds_01 22 Mar, 2016 AltLd
with Tom Horton
with Tom Horton
rob1 ??, 2016 AltLd
Tim Sparrow ??, 2016 -
Darron ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
mountain musher ??, 2016 AltLd
George_Surf 13 Oct, 2015 Lead dnf Only p1, sustained upper half. was very windy so abbed off the tat, will be back!
Only p1, sustained upper half. was very windy so abbed off the tat, will be back!
cameron_hall 10 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S Lovely route.
with Tim Crothers
Lovely route.
with Tim Crothers
Michael Allday 9 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S didnt no where we were going so smAshed it straight up the center and ended up joining for the last 2 pitches
didnt no where we were going so smAshed it straight up the center and ended up joining for the last 2 pitches
dobby 200 ?Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
swmackey 26 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
foostu4 7 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
martin c 19 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Enjoyed this. Ran 3 & 4 together also.
with Dave Thomas
Enjoyed this. Ran 3 & 4 together also.
with Dave Thomas
stephheels ?Jul, 2015 AltLd
Merlin Fincken 8 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 8 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Very nice climb, ran pitches 3 + 4 together which worked well! Bloody cold wind though.
Very nice climb, ran pitches 3 + 4 together which worked well! Bloody cold wind though.
Hidden 3 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
1-2-3-40 17 Apr, 2015 AltLd first pitch hardest, gear good throughout. stone fall on ridge not effecting climb.
first pitch hardest, gear good throughout. stone fall on ridge not effecting climb.
stephheels 16 Apr, 2015 2nd
nodwas 16 Apr, 2015 Lead
Tarquin 6 Apr, 2015 AltLd Stubbsy pulled off some nice route finding........
Stubbsy pulled off some nice route finding........
carl_123 6 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S Route finding was tricky. Thank God for the in depth description provide by rockfax
Route finding was tricky. Thank God for the in depth description provide by rockfax
BenRyle 19 Mar, 2015 AltLd rpt
with Steve Daniels
with Steve Daniels
ginger ??, 2015 -
petemeads 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S No guidebook so first two pitches previously unclimbed. Definitely on the correct line for the upper part. An adventure in the hills with an old mate - what could be better?
with Paul Parker
No guidebook so first two pitches previously unclimbed. Definitely on the correct line for the upper part. An adventure in the hills with an old mate - what could be better?
with Paul Parker
sgl 9 Sep, 2014 AltLd
with will
with will
williemiller 9 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
johnkeith 7 Aug, 2014 AltLd
with Michael Sandison
with Michael Sandison
will moy 4 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
jezb1 4 Aug, 2014 AltLd rpt, 2+4. Cracking route in the sun :)
rpt, 2+4. Cracking route in the sun :)
Crofty 30 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S P1 and P3, lovely route in a remote mountain setting. Route of the trip.
P1 and P3, lovely route in a remote mountain setting. Route of the trip.
JenRoberts 24 Jul, 2014 2nd
with Ollie
with Ollie
robman 11 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Dave Cundy ?Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Christian Saxtoft
with Christian Saxtoft
mark32 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd really nice route need to pay attention to the guide book
with andrew lester
really nice route need to pay attention to the guide book
with andrew lester
Andrew Lester 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd
Mark Young 20 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Helen
with Helen
Hidden 9 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 May, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 5 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
MoWalker3 21 Apr, 2014 - Walked in from Cwm Pennant as it made a better mountain day. Wet section on the start of the 2nd pitch doesn't touch the holds.
with Cormac
Walked in from Cwm Pennant as it made a better mountain day. Wet section on the start of the 2nd pitch doesn't touch the holds.
with Cormac
Hidden 19 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
Chris Manasseh 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd Led pp 2 + 4
with Ste Millington
Led pp 2 + 4
with Ste Millington
Hidden 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd
whiting.jp 19 Apr, 2014 Lead
with jamesca
with jamesca
stemill 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd
Whitty2012 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd Finished up Direct Line by accident.
with Alex Hughes, whity4420
Finished up Direct Line by accident.
with Alex Hughes, whity4420
Pete_Frost 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Lovely pocketed slab at the top. The traverse pitch below this is enjoyable too.
with Megan Beaumont
Lovely pocketed slab at the top. The traverse pitch below this is enjoyable too.
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 16 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
jsmcfarland 16 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Alternated leads with Jez and Oli. I took the 3rd (hardest) pitch at 4c, went off-route almost immediately and ended up leading the final pitch of Kirkus Route Direct at 5b. Some slightly scary moments routefinding and running out of gear but made it to the top and was happy doing some hard routes. The approach is exhausting.
Alternated leads with Jez and Oli. I took the 3rd (hardest) pitch at 4c, went off-route almost immediately and ended up leading the final pitch of Kirkus Route Direct at 5b. Some slightly scary moments routefinding and running out of gear but made it to the top and was happy doing some hard routes. The approach is exhausting.
Hidden 16 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Si ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 Lead
with Steve Kent
with Steve Kent
Hidden 12 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Aug, 2013 AltLd rpt
Will Hunt 24 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1 and P3.
Led P1 and P3.
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
ipegg 27 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Tony Walentowicz, Richard Apthorp
with Tony Walentowicz, Richard Apthorp
JamesLloyd 19 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S lead pitches 2 and 4, whole climb was briliant! a swim in the lake afterwards aswell
lead pitches 2 and 4, whole climb was briliant! a swim in the lake afterwards aswell
Abi Chard 13 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Jan
with Jan
CM1992 11 Jul, 2013 AltLd Lead P1 and 3, was off route on P3 possibly on the direct route. Amazing climb and had the crag all to ourselves
with Allan Miller
Lead P1 and 3, was off route on P3 possibly on the direct route. Amazing climb and had the crag all to ourselves
with Allan Miller
alpinismo.uk 9 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 7 Jul, 2013 Lead rpt
Prof. Outdoors 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Wendy
with Wendy
LozM 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd Led P2 and 4. P4 was superb!
with Mark J
Led P2 and 4. P4 was superb!
with Mark J
ema 21 Jun, 2013 AltLd
Jones_88 2 Jun, 2013 AltLd The climb may not have been amazing but the day out was definitely worth it. Nobody else around amazing views and a bit of climbing. Top quality mountain day. Route finding was also a bit awkward but we managed to get to the top in one piece.
The climb may not have been amazing but the day out was definitely worth it. Nobody else around amazing views and a bit of climbing. Top quality mountain day. Route finding was also a bit awkward but we managed to get to the top in one piece.
adam06 1 Jun, 2013 AltLd got lost on most pitches...
got lost on most pitches...
Hidden 12 May, 2013 AltLd dnf
Richard Thombs ?May, 2013 -
Hidden 2 Apr, 2013 AltLd
SamP88 ??, 2013 AltLd 1. SP, 2. Jasper 3. ET, 4. SP Date?
with Jasper Davie-Tettmar, Emma Tettmar
1. SP, 2. Jasper 3. ET, 4. SP Date?
with Jasper Davie-Tettmar, Emma Tettmar
Hidden ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Johnywilks ??, 2013 -
Sam James-Louwerse 22 Sep, 2012 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 22 Sep, 2012 Lead
Neil Amos 1 Sep, 2012 Lead Lead all pitches but the route description bore little resemblance to what I climbed. Tough 5a move to exit the wall. Great day though and great route
Lead all pitches but the route description bore little resemblance to what I climbed. Tough 5a move to exit the wall. Great day though and great route
Matt Harmon 11 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Steve Lenartowicz 11 Aug, 2012 Lead
with Clare
with Clare
stefie c 11 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Pitches 1 + 3
Pitches 1 + 3
BenRyle 24 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Giles
with Giles
luke2442 21 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Fred Lyon
with Fred Lyon
Hidden 15 Jul, 2012 -
jezb1 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd Very nice route that gets better as you go on. Never very hard climbing but route finding requires thought. Lead p2&p4
Very nice route that gets better as you go on. Never very hard climbing but route finding requires thought. Lead p2&p4
Johnywilks 17 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
neal 27 May, 2012 AltLd Led P 1,3.
with John Roberts
Led P 1,3.
with John Roberts
Hidden 22 May, 2012 -
moelfras 22 May, 2012 2nd
fizzychewitt 22 May, 2012 Lead
with Arwel, Marion
with Arwel, Marion
Hidden 29 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
Lotte Stuer 29 Mar, 2012 AltLd Amazing climb! Starting off cold in morning and climbing up to the sun!
with Iona
Amazing climb! Starting off cold in morning and climbing up to the sun!
with Iona
Hidden 28 Mar, 2012 AltLd
gareth scott borthwick 28 Mar, 2012 Lead
Maria (Spanny) Xusa 28 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S
dan-8990 27 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
with NM
with NM
Hidden 25 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
gravity 24 Mar, 2012 Lead dnf Led first pitch, then had to abseil off as we'd run out of time.
with Harriet Kirk
Led first pitch, then had to abseil off as we'd run out of time.
with Harriet Kirk
Harri777 24 Mar, 2012 2nd P1 only, then abbed off
with Toby Knight
P1 only, then abbed off
with Toby Knight
Binder 24 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S I led p1 and 3. Fantastic weather, beautiful location.
with Max A
I led p1 and 3. Fantastic weather, beautiful location.
with Max A
Will Sheaff ?Mar, 2012 AltLd Led p2
Led p2
Hidden ??, 2012 -
tumbling wizard ??, 2012 Lead
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Stone Idle ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
gw3285 10 Dec, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 25 Aug, 2011 Lead
steve prior ?Aug, 2011 AltLd
with Andy C
with Andy C
Pete Randall 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd dnf Rain forced a retreat after pitch 2.
with Bill Thurston, Babika
Rain forced a retreat after pitch 2.
with Bill Thurston, Babika
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd dnf
Ann S 26 Jul, 2011 2nd Another classic Kirkus route in the bag.
with Adam
Another classic Kirkus route in the bag.
with Adam
Adam1973 26 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Ann S
with Ann S
Jules 210681 24 Jul, 2011 2nd
with Zoomer
with Zoomer
Zoomer 24 Jul, 2011 Lead Only led the first pitch and then abseiled off, due to crowds above moving really slowly due poor route finding. Will be back!
Only led the first pitch and then abseiled off, due to crowds above moving really slowly due poor route finding. Will be back!
Steve Woollard 23 Jul, 2011 Lead
Hidden 23 Jul, 2011 Lead
Hidden 23 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Jul, 2011 AltLd
The Ivanator 21 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Brilliant route, memorable climb. Rich led 1 & 3, I led 2 then at the third belay torrential stairods from on high rained down, I led out on the top pitch of Direct route (VDiff) which was a vegetated waterfall, glad to top out without slithering off!
Brilliant route, memorable climb. Rich led 1 & 3, I led 2 then at the third belay torrential stairods from on high rained down, I led out on the top pitch of Direct route (VDiff) which was a vegetated waterfall, glad to top out without slithering off!
egg-man 4 Jun, 2011 AltLd Difficult route finding on pitches 1 & 3 but PN found a way up. Spaced gear in places. Great route with big mountain feel. Painful toes after descending in rock shoes.
with Pete Nugent
Difficult route finding on pitches 1 & 3 but PN found a way up. Spaced gear in places. Great route with big mountain feel. Painful toes after descending in rock shoes.
with Pete Nugent
Liam FLeming 4 Jun, 2011 -
with karen dalzell
with karen dalzell
kdalzell 4 Jun, 2011 AltLd
Pete Nugent 3 Jun, 2011 AltLd Left car park about 13.00 back 20.30. Very hot day. Led p1 & 3, route finding is intricate. For me. p4 was the best. Descent gully is staightforward but tiring on feet in rock shoes.
with egg-man
Left car park about 13.00 back 20.30. Very hot day. Led p1 & 3, route finding is intricate. For me. p4 was the best. Descent gully is staightforward but tiring on feet in rock shoes.
with egg-man
The Blue Bucket ?May, 2011 Lead
clairepoppett 30 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S 1 led P2 and P4, top pitch really makes this climb!
with Jim Gaffney
1 led P2 and P4, top pitch really makes this climb!
with Jim Gaffney
Jim Gaffney 30 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Apr, 2011 AltLd
brockers 28 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S nice route a bit wandery in places.
nice route a bit wandery in places.
barney800 28 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Got lost on P2 (traversed too far and too high I think) but thoroughly enjoyable once back on route. Top pitch is especially superb. Gear sometimes a little spaced but climbing generally steady.
with Katherine Shaw
Got lost on P2 (traversed too far and too high I think) but thoroughly enjoyable once back on route. Top pitch is especially superb. Gear sometimes a little spaced but climbing generally steady.
with Katherine Shaw
ritchierich 10 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Route finding near top was little tricky but a cracking route.
Route finding near top was little tricky but a cracking route.
Hidden 10 Apr, 2011 AltLd
matt.woodfield 8 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Sean Kelly ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
ColinD ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
brockers ??, 2011 -
preet s 22 Aug, 2010 AltLd
with Luis Parsons (aka Hero)
with Luis Parsons (aka Hero)
Matthew Scott-Chalmers 8 Aug, 2010 AltLd rpt Last pitch had small holds and limited protection.
Last pitch had small holds and limited protection.
Hidden 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
jolyon.cohen 26 Jun, 2010 2nd
davidwright 26 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
chippyjeff 31 May, 2010 AltLd O/S pitches 1 and 3
with Bennykr
pitches 1 and 3
with Bennykr
runestone 3 May, 2010 Lead rpt
with Nic
with Nic
Hidden 11 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
Jim Walton 11 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S Glorious route.
Glorious route.
Hidden 8 Apr, 2010 AltLd
Rob Evans ??, 2010 Lead O/S
wilsonthewarrior ??, 2010 AltLd
Hidden ?Oct, 2009 -
brian watson 26 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Sep, 2009 Lead
scott titt 26 Sep, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 15 Sep, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 27 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Conan 31 May, 2009 AltLd O/S Brilliant route. Route finding was easy enough.
with Philippa Reader
Brilliant route. Route finding was easy enough.
with Philippa Reader
Daniel Wrightson 31 May, 2009 -
with Steve Gould, Andrew Stoke-Rees
with Steve Gould, Andrew Stoke-Rees
Dave Thompson 30 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
with John Evans
with John Evans
Calder 30 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Andy G
with Andy G
mje1398 25 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
with John M
with John M
Hidden 2 May, 2009 Lead O/S
Tanya Savage 19 Apr, 2009 2nd I'm glad Neil was route-finding ...exciting climbing, stunning place, mostly positive handholds.
I'm glad Neil was route-finding ...exciting climbing, stunning place, mostly positive handholds.
Neil Pacey 19 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S Very good route, excellent climbing especially on the 1st and 4th pitches, route finding was probably the hardest challenge!
Very good route, excellent climbing especially on the 1st and 4th pitches, route finding was probably the hardest challenge!
Sardien 19 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S Lead P2&4, but P1 we did of the Direct route HVS 5b
with Matthew Jaques
Lead P2&4, but P1 we did of the Direct route HVS 5b
with Matthew Jaques
Welshy 12 Apr, 2009 AltLd
Wilbur 11 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S Led all 4 pitches. Thought this was pretty stiff for VS actually. Especially the crux move on P1 on the rising crack traverse and P4 moving out under the overlap and also traversing out left to top-out (above the LH overlap). Quite confusing route-finding so i could have been off-route!
with viking
Led all 4 pitches. Thought this was pretty stiff for VS actually. Especially the crux move on P1 on the rising crack traverse and P4 moving out under the overlap and also traversing out left to top-out (above the LH overlap). Quite confusing route-finding so i could have been off-route!
with viking
bridget143 5 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S B pitch 1 and 3, A pitch 2 and 4 with slight HVS variation at top.
with alicia
B pitch 1 and 3, A pitch 2 and 4 with slight HVS variation at top.
with alicia
alicia 5 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Bridget
with Bridget
matjaques ?Apr, 2009 AltLd
with Serinda
with Serinda
viking ?Apr, 2009 2nd i'm pretty sure we were off route on the last pitch - seconded due to injury induced scaredy-catness
with wilbur
i'm pretty sure we were off route on the last pitch - seconded due to injury induced scaredy-catness
with wilbur
LP ??, 2009 AltLd Led 1/3. Found pitch one an awkward struggle. Loose rock, off balance and suspect gear. Pitch 3 was amazing.
Led 1/3. Found pitch one an awkward struggle. Loose rock, off balance and suspect gear. Pitch 3 was amazing.
Hidden 23 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
Suzie Wilson 30 Aug, 2008 AltLd
with Paul
with Paul
Hidden 26 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
centurion05 23 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
HimTiggins 7 Jun, 2008 AltLd rpt Led pitches 2 & 4
Led pitches 2 & 4
Hidden 21 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
emlynroberts 18 May, 2008 Lead Dropped Alec's screwgate
with Alec Folley, Lizzy Andrew
Dropped Alec's screwgate
with Alec Folley, Lizzy Andrew
Hidden 18 May, 2008 2nd O/S
hils theaker 18 May, 2008 2nd dnf
with Adam
with Adam
Lizzy Andrew 18 May, 2008 2nd
with Emerlin
with Emerlin
peter myers ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Jaap Overtoom
with Jaap Overtoom
Sean Kelly ??, 2008 -
Hidden 12 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S
Rog Wilko 7 Sep, 2007 Lead Great adventure, superb route - if you can follow the route description!
with Debbie Wilkinson
Great adventure, superb route - if you can follow the route description!
with Debbie Wilkinson
intersection996 29 Aug, 2007 AltLd
with Tim
with Tim
Hidden 9 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
Gman ?Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Dave
with Dave
Jayney D 10 Jun, 2007 Lead
with Ste D
with Ste D
edmitchell 27 May, 2007 AltLd O/S Direct variant pitches 1+2
with kai ren
Direct variant pitches 1+2
with kai ren
Hidden 26 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2007 Lead
mick1jones 26 May, 2007 2nd O/S First VS second - loved the route! Gentle introduction to the world of VS - classic route with plenty to grab hold of
with John Martin
First VS second - loved the route! Gentle introduction to the world of VS - classic route with plenty to grab hold of
with John Martin
pete johnson 28 Apr, 2007 Solo
Hidden 28 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
Nick Haine 14 Apr, 2007 Lead
with Sally
with Sally
chris sm 7 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S Easy climbing but route finding was quite tricky.
with Pippa Froggatt
Easy climbing but route finding was quite tricky.
with Pippa Froggatt
rabid 17 Mar, 2007 2nd O/S
with Sam&RichH
with Sam&RichH
barni ??, 2007 AltLd
with Paul James
with Paul James
khawk 8 Sep, 2006 AltLd
with Wil
with Wil
tom.e 11 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Everett
with Charlie Everett
Sylvi 10 Jun, 2006 AltLd
with Scott
with Scott
Hidden 28 May, 2006 Lead O/S
spoony84 ??, 2006 AltLd with jamie smith
with jamie smith
runestone 26 Aug, 2005 AltLd
with Mike B
with Mike B
leon ?Aug, 2005 Lead O/S very nice route in a nice setting. crux is the traverse on pitch 1
with Steven Davidson
very nice route in a nice setting. crux is the traverse on pitch 1
with Steven Davidson
Hidden 9 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
runestone 11 Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S
with J
with J
Brucifer ?Jun, 2005 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S
runestone 17 May, 2005 Lead
Mark Davies PK ?May, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Mick B
with Mick B
Hidden 30 Aug, 2004 AltLd
The Oracle 14 Aug, 2004 AltLd O/S
Jamie B ?Jun, 2004 AltLd
with Kris Quayle
with Kris Quayle
caradoc 23 May, 2004 AltLd O/S
with john b
with john b
Hidden ??, 2004 -
Andy Clarke 18 Oct, 2003 AltLd O/S Led Ps 1&3.
with Johnny
Led Ps 1&3.
with Johnny
Chris Murray ?Jul, 2003 AltLd
with Richard Bower
with Richard Bower
Nigel Coe 15 Jun, 2003 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2003 AltLd
kylo-342 ?Jun, 2003 AltLd
with chrisi
with chrisi
Iain Brown 7 May, 2000 -
with Gerdy
with Gerdy
zero six ??, 2000 Lead O/S
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 1999 -
clanger ??, 1998 -
with Dave Walsh
with Dave Walsh
brady 20 Jul, 1997 Lead O/S
with Andy Carr
with Andy Carr
ill_bill ?Jul, 1997 AltLd
Bob M 5 Jul, 1996 Lead
with Chris Bristow
with Chris Bristow
btinsen ??, 1996 Lead
runestone 1 Jan, 1995 AltLd
colin milton 24 Jun, 1994 AltLd
with eric milton
with eric milton
nigehughes ?Apr, 1994 AltLd
with Dave Cameron
with Dave Cameron
roncaves 20 Jun, 1993 AltLd
with Ed Hyatt
with Ed Hyatt
Andy Say 13 Jun, 1993 Solo
D Tempest 23 May, 1993 AltLd O/S
with Michelle
with Michelle
Ched ??, 1993 Lead O/S
with Glyn
with Glyn
Scott McRae 26 May, 1992 2nd O/S Exhilirating route and first VS in mountains
with Martin Hore
Exhilirating route and first VS in mountains
with Martin Hore
Hidden ??, 1992 AltLd
WB ??, 1992 -
RichardMc 18 May, 1991 AltLd
with Geoff Dunne
with Geoff Dunne
conradallen 10 Jun, 1990 2nd
Hidden ?Sep, 1989 2nd
sdht ?Apr, 1989 - Fisrt pitch of the Direct at 5a
Fisrt pitch of the Direct at 5a
Hidden 30 Oct, 1988 AltLd
wynaptomos ?Jul, 1987 Solo O/S
Hidden 24 Jul, 1985 AltLd O/S
charlesmfrench 2 Jul, 1983 AltLd O/S 2,L,2,L.
2,L,2,L.
uphillnow 2 Jul, 1983 AltLd
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??, 1982 Solo
leland stamper ?Mar, 1981 2nd
Hidden ??, 1980 -
JohnHutch ?Oct, 1978 AltLd
with BA
with BA
RichardMc 27 May, 1978 AltLd O/S
with Dave Langmead
with Dave Langmead
Falko 27 Jun, 1977 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire, Al W.
with Howard Lancashire, Al W.
Falko 26 Jun, 1977 AltLd O/S My guidebook contains the comment "probably the best route in the whole world!"
with Al W.
My guidebook contains the comment "probably the best route in the whole world!"
with Al W.
Bolt Phobia 27 May, 1977 AltLd
with Kit Spencer
with Kit Spencer
Rob Davies 8 Aug, 1976 Lead We may have wandered on to the Direct in places
with John Davies
We may have wandered on to the Direct in places
with John Davies
Hidden 20 Jun, 1976 Lead
Hidden 20 Jun, 1976 2nd
Hidden ??, 1976 -
pneame ?Oct, 1975 Lead
granitbahn ??, 1975 AltLd
Nigel Bond 22 Jun, 1974 AltLd
with Pete Bott
with Pete Bott
Martin Bennett 18 Aug, 1973 -
with Sue Andrews, RA
with Sue Andrews, RA
Rick51 12 Aug, 1973 AltLd
kjacks ??, 1973 AltLd
with Ken Lax
with Ken Lax
Hidden ??, 1971 Lead
mikej 10 Oct, 1970 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
with Geoff Williams
Seymore Butt ??, 1970 AltLd
with Nev
with Nev
Gordon Stainforth 25 May, 1969 AltLd
with John Stainforth
with John Stainforth
eroica64 15 Jul, 1967 AltLd
with Percy aka Mike Spring
with Percy aka Mike Spring
jcw ?Apr, 1966 -
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 60
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set