Rockfax Description
A good companion which is probably less direct than the original route. Start below the right-hand side of the slab.
1) 5a, 25m. Climb a short slab (often wet) then a steep section above. Gain and follow a groove which leads up right until you can swing left past flakes and drop down to gain the stance of Kirkus Route.
2) 4c, 18m. Traverse left to reach a small corner. Climb this then step right onto a rib. Follow a crack and move left into another groove which leads to the mid-height break on Kirkus Route.
3) 5b, 40m. A long pitch. Climb into the corner on the right and follow it to an overhang. Move left to a crack and climb this, then step left. Climb the slab left of the corner to the upper break. Move right into a slim groove and climb this to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Kirkus Routes, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, Adventure ticklist 2018, The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
cameron_hall 25 Aug AltLd O/S Led P1, P2. Went across a bit earlier at the end of P1 rather than up and down. Nice slab climbing with pretty sustained difficulty.
with mcondon
Led P1, P2. Went across a bit earlier at the end of P1 rather than up and down. Nice slab climbing with pretty sustained difficulty.
with mcondon
Hidden 29 Jul AltLd O/S
fuzzysheep01 29 Jun Lead O/S P1 and 2 only. Bailed because of unbelievable clouds of black flies and midges and rain. Grim...
with Ian Wyatt
P1 and 2 only. Bailed because of unbelievable clouds of black flies and midges and rain. Grim...
with Ian Wyatt
LucaC 22 Jun Lead O/S
with Kam
with Kam
Kimberley Maiyh 22 Jun 2nd dnf
with dutchman
with dutchman
BarbsMurray 4 May 2nd Flipping freezing!
Flipping freezing!
pauldrew 4 May Lead dnf Pitch 1 only - too cold so had to abb off.
Pitch 1 only - too cold so had to abb off.
Hidden 22 Apr 2nd
wolf.leeb 22 Apr Lead O/S perfect sunny bank holiday route.
with Alexis
perfect sunny bank holiday route.
with Alexis
Old Git Tim 21 Apr AltLd
therat 20 Apr Lead P1 + P3
P1 + P3
Hidden 29 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Sep, 2018 AltLd
james.slater 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Hard to know if we followed the right line on the last pitch. Wasnt 5b, but we definitely werent on the 4c pitch either!
Hard to know if we followed the right line on the last pitch. Wasnt 5b, but we definitely werent on the 4c pitch either!
Hidden 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Gabe Oliver 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Absolutely scorching day. Lead P3 and then went for a lake swim
Absolutely scorching day. Lead P3 and then went for a lake swim
griffithpatrick 21 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
myrddinmuse 21 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead P1, and the glory monster 3rd pitch. Represented the absolute worst of UK mountain cragging (cold cold cold, questionable packing decisions and clothing, extreme winds, long walk in, difficult route finding) and the absolute best (brilliant view, breathtaking exposure, monster runouts, a good partnership, beautifully long pitch, summit top-out). Was worth the ffaf and the nearly being blown off the wall and the hot aches in June. Will pack trousers next time though.
Lead P1, and the glory monster 3rd pitch. Represented the absolute worst of UK mountain cragging (cold cold cold, questionable packing decisions and clothing, extreme winds, long walk in, difficult route finding) and the absolute best (brilliant view, breathtaking exposure, monster runouts, a good partnership, beautifully long pitch, summit top-out). Was worth the ffaf and the nearly being blown off the wall and the hot aches in June. Will pack trousers next time though.
V1c 9 Jun, 2018 2nd
GermanAlex 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S By accident, aimed for Kirkus Route but didn't clock on to the fact I'd swapped routes until the top section and thinking it all felt a bit hard for VS 4c. Climbed as two pitches, added some extra spice by avoiding gear placements on 1+2 to reduce rope drag.
with V1c
By accident, aimed for Kirkus Route but didn't clock on to the fact I'd swapped routes until the top section and thinking it all felt a bit hard for VS 4c. Climbed as two pitches, added some extra spice by avoiding gear placements on 1+2 to reduce rope drag.
with V1c
Dave Almond 30 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Done in two pitches. Very enjoyable bar the midge attack
with Philip Ingle
Done in two pitches. Very enjoyable bar the midge attack
with Philip Ingle
Hidden 30 May, 2018 AltLd
Chris Manasseh 7 May, 2018 AltLd Led 1 + 3
Led 1 + 3
Private Flounder 7 May, 2018 AltLd
Climbingspike ??, 2018 -
Hidden ??, 2018 -
dan-8990 14 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with WE, TH
with WE, TH
SimonWooden 4 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S P1 only due to late start
with michael woolcott
P1 only due to late start
with michael woolcott
Dan Hale 13 May, 2017 Lead O/S Bumped into Kitty at a house party and ended up climbing this the next day! Another fun day out ticking the classics whilst my finger heals. Very exciting leading the last pitch as the ominous purple clouds rolled in. Topped out, traversed the ridge and descended the gully in ever worsening rain and wind. Although it was an epic adventure, no epics were had! A great day out :)
with Kitty
Bumped into Kitty at a house party and ended up climbing this the next day! Another fun day out ticking the classics whilst my finger heals. Very exciting leading the last pitch as the ominous purple clouds rolled in. Topped out, traversed the ridge and descended the gully in ever worsening rain and wind. Although it was an epic adventure, no epics were had! A great day out :)
with Kitty
Dave Turnbull, BMC 22 Oct, 2016 Lead
with Chris Rees
with Chris Rees
Sardien 9 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Good route apart from middle pitch not so much. Top moves really good, great day
with Wraith
Good route apart from middle pitch not so much. Top moves really good, great day
with Wraith
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
MoWalker3 29 May, 2016 -
with DavidK, Andy
with DavidK, Andy
shed_hed 24 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P2. Bloody freezing - numb hands and feet all the way up! Had a bit of hail as we were racking up and the clouds were blowing up the crag! Abbed off the top to the first belay but the rope got stuck so Dougie climbed 1 and a half pitches to retrieve it then down climbed all the way back down! Decided to call it a day after that. Proper mountain feeling route though at a cool crag.
Led P2. Bloody freezing - numb hands and feet all the way up! Had a bit of hail as we were racking up and the clouds were blowing up the crag! Abbed off the top to the first belay but the rope got stuck so Dougie climbed 1 and a half pitches to retrieve it then down climbed all the way back down! Decided to call it a day after that. Proper mountain feeling route though at a cool crag.
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
CharlieMack 16 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hannes B 16 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S p1&3
p1&3
Mark D 3 Oct, 2015 AltLd
with Tom Bide
with Tom Bide
foostu4 7 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
cem 27 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Led p3. Not worth two stars.
Led p3. Not worth two stars.
EeFu 27 Jun, 2015 AltLd
with cem
with cem
Hidden 27 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Jun, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 13 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
mike mo ??, 2015 -
mike mo ??, 2015 -
mike mo ??, 2015 -
mike mo ??, 2015 -
mike mo ??, 2015 -
mike mo ??, 2015 -
tim newton 17 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with mike grant
with mike grant
Hidden 18 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
amy 17 May, 2014 2nd
PTatts 17 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Amy Illingworth, katyvose1
with Amy Illingworth, katyvose1
dicky79 16 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
with James D
with James D
Hidden 3 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 Lead
with Charlie Jordan, Phil Earl
with Charlie Jordan, Phil Earl
Si ??, 2014 -
Hidden 28 Sep, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 27 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
ipegg 27 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Tony Walentowicz, Richard Apthorp
with Tony Walentowicz, Richard Apthorp
kdalzell 13 Jul, 2013 2nd
Hidden 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd
roberts1234567890 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Gerwyn Madog Jones, simonvand
with Gerwyn Madog Jones, simonvand
simonvand 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 4 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
beckycoles 31 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead P1
Lead P1
scott mayled 29 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
Dunx 24 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with joeym
with joeym
keith Lonsdale 27 May, 2012 2nd
andybirtwistle 27 May, 2012 Lead
Hidden 16 May, 2012 2nd β
highclimber 16 May, 2012 Lead O/S route finding is a bit hard - went off route at the end but was a worthwhile journey.
route finding is a bit hard - went off route at the end but was a worthwhile journey.
Binder 24 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S I led p2 - probably went slightly the wrong way, the route is pretty indistinct.
with Max A
I led p2 - probably went slightly the wrong way, the route is pretty indistinct.
with Max A
BenRyle 24 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
tumbling wizard ??, 2012 Lead
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2011 AltLd
Ann S 26 Jul, 2011 2nd Great final slab- nice and fingery.
with Adam
Great final slab- nice and fingery.
with Adam
Adam1973 26 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Ann S
with Ann S
jimshrimp 14 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Short 5a section at the crux, the rest of the route seemed way easier. But a nice wandering line up vast sea of slabs.
Short 5a section at the crux, the rest of the route seemed way easier. But a nice wandering line up vast sea of slabs.
chrisallan 1 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 31 May, 2011 AltLd O/S I led P1, Chris P2, me P3
I led P1, Chris P2, me P3
chrisallan 31 May, 2011 AltLd
Sophie Nunn 9 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Ceridwen 9 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
matt.woodfield 8 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
ben360 ?Apr, 2011 2nd
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
centurion05 ??, 2011 -
Hidden 3 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Nigel Mackwood 3 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead P3(crux).
with A123
Lead P3(crux).
with A123
Chriswallis2 26 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with annaEM
with annaEM
Hidden 26 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
Jim Walton 11 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S Top slab is great
Top slab is great
Hidden 15 Sep, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 13 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Shaw Brown 28 Jun, 2009 AltLd
with Chris Michelak
with Chris Michelak
Hidden 25 May, 2009 2nd
matjaques ?Apr, 2009 Lead Only P1 as rope length was short for P4m moved accross to Kirkus
with Serinda
Only P1 as rope length was short for P4m moved accross to Kirkus
with Serinda
Hidden 8 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
Sean Kelly ??, 2008 -
intersection996 29 Aug, 2007 2nd
with Tim
with Tim
Hidden 26 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
barni ??, 2007 AltLd
with Paul James
with Paul James
Hidden ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Oct, 2003 2nd
marcoleptic ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with Gibbon Bum
with Gibbon Bum
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 -
Martin Bennett 19 Jun, 1999 - Finished in the rain on the day Ray became Imran Khan!
with MT
Finished in the rain on the day Ray became Imran Khan!
with MT
Andy Say 12 Aug, 1997 Solo
Hidden 14 Apr, 1995 AltLd
runestone 1 Jan, 1995 -
babymoac 6 May, 1990 AltLd
with MTW
with MTW
uphillnow ?Apr, 1984 AltLd date is approximate. Dave Booth was leading a rope above and dislodged a rock which sliced my new rope.
with charlie french
date is approximate. Dave Booth was leading a rope above and dislodged a rock which sliced my new rope.
with charlie french
charlesmfrench 2 Jul, 1983 AltLd O/S 2,L,2.
2,L,2.
uphillnow 2 Jul, 1983 AltLd
rogerskews 31 Jul, 1976 AltLd
with George Hardill
with George Hardill
Mike Owen 20 Jun, 1976 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
with John Roberts
Derek Ryden ??, 1975 AltLd O/S
with Chris Creswick
with Chris Creswick
Hidden 9 Apr, 1974 Lead dnf
Hidden ?May, 1973 AltLd
Seymore Butt ??, 1970 AltLd
with Nev
with Nev
eroica64 15 Jul, 1967 AltLd
with Percy aka Mike Spring
with Percy aka Mike Spring
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 22
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set