155m, 7 pitches. Note- HVS 5a is the grade with aid, all the pegs have been removed and it’s subsequently about E2 5c. The upper section is heavily vegetated where it trends right after the overhang.

This fine classic route takes the obvious central diedre of the buttress and continues over the overhangs in an almost direct line to the top. Climbed with various amounts of aid over the years, it has been free climbed but which climbers did it first is not known. The climbing is relatively straight-forward but is sensational and well recommended route.


Start: Scramble up the grass to a tongue of slab which descends to the right of the diedre.

24m Up the slab to possible flake belays at 14m. Climb a groove, step left and down to flake belay.
15m The overhang above is split by a V crack. Climb the crack, then left for about 1 m. Tension move down left to below a thin green crack. Climb this with difficulty to a comfortable stance in the diedre proper.
21 m Easier climbing up the diedre or good holds to belay.
21 m Step up left to a rib which is followed for 5m until one can step back airily right into crack. Climb this with difficulty, to a small stance and belay beneath overhang.
36m The only break in the overhang is the wall on the right. Reach out to spike at 3m and mantleshelf. (All pegs have been removed).Mantelshelf again onto peg in the crack above (removed). Repeat the process up to the top peg and traverse up right across the slab. Then up edge of slab to a tight chimney, followed by an overhang. Up to belay. Kon Tiki shares the last 9m of this pitch and the rest of the route.
21 m Ascend an awkward rib followed by a groove to belay on grass strip with vertical right wall.
17m Swing right into the corner and climb mostly up the pockled right wall, up to right via small overhang to top

R B Evans, J A Austin, B A Fuller 04/Aug/1957.

Ticklists

Ireland 3 Star HVS , Irish MCI Multipitch Routes

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