UKC

105m, 3 pitches. Climb the right facing corner below the corner of The Dagger. Step right on to the rib bounding the right of The Dagger, over an overlap until a hanging stance from a spike at the top of The Dagger corner. Step down and right and onto a short rib then climb the cracked wall above to the terrace.

M Forbes & M Rennie Sep/1966.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , UK Holiday Plans , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , 50 Top Scottish VS's , Must climb at crags , A.P's summer , Lairig hitlist , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , Summer 2025

Feedback

User Date Notes
eggy scrambles 24 Aug Show βeta
βeta: we cut away old looking tat on top of P3 and replaced with our own. abseiling from the tat is possible with 60’s
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: we cut away old looking tat on top of P3 and replaced with our own. abseiling from the tat is possible with 60’s
PappaDaq 10 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: What a line and what a setting! Great rock quality and exceptional cracks. The anchor at the end of pitch 2 is obvious as it had 2 pieces of tat around the block (at the time of this comment). Pitch 1 & 2 probably deserve 4 stars, pitch 3 probably around 2 stars. It’s at least a 3 star, probably 4 star route. People need to get on this!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a line and what a setting! Great rock quality and exceptional cracks. The anchor at the end of pitch 2 is obvious as it had 2 pieces of tat around the block (at the time of this comment). Pitch 1 & 2 probably deserve 4 stars, pitch 3 probably around 2 stars. It’s at least a 3 star, probably 4 star route. People need to get on this!
Fiona Reid 12 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: We left a carabiner on the abseil from the dagger as the mailion is really a bit small for both tat and ab rope to both pass through without risking abrasion of the tat. Please be kind to other climbers and don't steal it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We left a carabiner on the abseil from the dagger as the mailion is really a bit small for both tat and ab rope to both pass through without risking abrasion of the tat. Please be kind to other climbers and don't steal it.

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Guidebooks for Ben Macdui - Creagan a' Choire Etchachan

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 39
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Crack o' the Mearns

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clachnaben)

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