6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5c, 2) 4c, 3) 3c, 4) 4c 5) 4c, 6) 3a. One of the great classics of the area visible from miles away. Approach from the Col de Sugiton via the GR 98-51 and follow a track (black marks) down and round onto the south face. The polished first pitch is the crux, and can be tricky to locate. Once above this the positions are superb. The easiest descent is a 20m abseil down the middle of the north face - a cairned path leads to this. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5c, 4c, 3c, 4c, 4c, 3b

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Stamper 16 Aug AltLd Beautiful. Step isn't as bad as it seems.
Beautiful. Step isn't as bad as it seems.
AliRLee 22 Apr AltLd O/S Great route! Was quite windy and a bit nippy but still incredibly enjoyable. fun from start to finish
Great route! Was quite windy and a bit nippy but still incredibly enjoyable. fun from start to finish
TommyKips 17 Apr Lead O/S
with CecWend
with CecWend
CecWend 17 Apr 2nd
LibbyDoole 19 Oct, 2018 AltLd Beautiful adventure. 10 quick draws was enough despite long pitches. May have been nice to have some nuts for the exposed feeling bits but it was ok.
with oxocube
Beautiful adventure. 10 quick draws was enough despite long pitches. May have been nice to have some nuts for the exposed feeling bits but it was ok.
with oxocube
derzuspaete 4 Oct, 2018 AltLd
QuentinSu 21 Aug, 2017 AltLd G/U
Gaelle1992 ?May, 2017 AltLd O/S Amazing routes with Thomy. Sa premiere grande voie!
with Thomy
Amazing routes with Thomy. Sa premiere grande voie!
with Thomy
nutme 29 Apr, 2017 AltLd Climbed it at noon straight after the flight! First and second pitches are super polished. Step on top of L1 is quite long. A lot of waiting for other parties even later in the day. Approach is better from west. Recommended north by Rockfax is steep and has a lot of scree.
with Cata
Climbed it at noon straight after the flight! First and second pitches are super polished. Step on top of L1 is quite long. A lot of waiting for other parties even later in the day. Approach is better from west. Recommended north by Rockfax is steep and has a lot of scree.
with Cata
CharlieMack 9 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S
with Marjorie Azcarate
with Marjorie Azcarate
Hidden 6 Apr, 2016 AltLd
Chrissy202 6 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Charlie P
with Charlie P
WSHart 2 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S Led first and fourth pitches
Led first and fourth pitches
lithos 14 Dec, 2015 Lead finding the start isn't that easy you have to backtrack away from the gully and down below the start then come back up. Leave bags near main path. P1 is highly polished but never hard just feels sketchy. Start of P2 is intimidating (think Kinky Boots, 50m up!) - if guiding consider belaying after the step across (bolt and rock7/8). The rest of the arete is fun, there is short steep tricky rusty wall just before the summit. From summit follow small cairns/path down left-ish (north away from sea) to ab station. Well bolted (newish) thoughoput, I used a couple of medium wires (5..8) and a few bits of old ironmongery
with julie
finding the start isn't that easy you have to backtrack away from the gully and down below the start then come back up. Leave bags near main path. P1 is highly polished but never hard just feels sketchy. Start of P2 is intimidating (think Kinky Boots, 50m up!) - if guiding consider belaying after the step across (bolt and rock7/8). The rest of the arete is fun, there is short steep tricky rusty wall just before the summit. From summit follow small cairns/path down left-ish (north away from sea) to ab station. Well bolted (newish) thoughoput, I used a couple of medium wires (5..8) and a few bits of old ironmongery
with julie
thompsonjr21 7 Sep, 2015 -
andrewcoultherd 25 Aug, 2015 AltLd lead 1st and 5th(?) pitches. No mention anywhere of the step across after 1st pitch.
lead 1st and 5th(?) pitches. No mention anywhere of the step across after 1st pitch.
s1362083 10 Apr, 2015 AltLd dog
DaveB61 18 Mar, 2015 AltLd
with Piers Pickard
with Piers Pickard
MoWalker3 18 Mar, 2015 -
with Jaqi
with Jaqi
andyclimber 7 Nov, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead 2nd and 4th pitches. Tricky abseil off in the dark.
Lead 2nd and 4th pitches. Tricky abseil off in the dark.
jing 18 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S First pitch the crux, the rest was easy but fantastic ridge climbing.
with vyl20
First pitch the crux, the rest was easy but fantastic ridge climbing.
with vyl20
Lorène ?Oct, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 16 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Chris Lowe 21 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
ChrisBrooke 2 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S Awful polished first pitch. Fun step across, then pleasant romping.
with Keeley Scholes
Awful polished first pitch. Fun step across, then pleasant romping.
with Keeley Scholes
duncana 7 Feb, 2009 2nd dnf Just did first pitch as v. windy; polished; looked like v. exciting jump over gap to second pitch
with Pippa Archer
Just did first pitch as v. windy; polished; looked like v. exciting jump over gap to second pitch
with Pippa Archer
17 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set