UKC

32m. On the left side of Hard Yank, a bouldery start leads to balancey and technical climbing on vertical rock, through a bulge crux and onto an easy slab. Catch your breath and move upward through another vertical section toward the final hornet's sting crux. There are 15 bolts plus the anchor; bring a few longer draws to reduce rope drag. To get back to earth use a 70m or very stretchy 60m rope, or just rap down off the adjacent Hard Yank anchors.

Andreas Theophanous 18/Jan/2014.

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User Date Notes
jonexley 2 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Denis asked for some debate... I think I would have got lower section third time apart from rain so for me that calibrates the lower part at about 6c+/7a - definitely harder than Yank Hard. Agree direct finish is 6a/b but doing this makes the whole continuation a bit pointless as all the hard climbing is over after the lower crux. Not my route of course but IMHO I would give the option of a belay after the lower crux (a) the lower section is a lovely route in its own right, (b) it would get more traffic (which it needs) (c) it would solve the 60m rope issue AND (d) climbers would then do the top part BECAUSE of the 7a/b finish. N Cyprus would also then have its very own version of the multi pitch "Diamantes" (Buoux) (aka the best 7a in the world)!
Show beta
βeta: Denis asked for some debate... I think I would have got lower section third time apart from rain so for me that calibrates the lower part at about 6c+/7a - definitely harder than Yank Hard. Agree direct finish is 6a/b but doing this makes the whole continuation a bit pointless as all the hard climbing is over after the lower crux. Not my route of course but IMHO I would give the option of a belay after the lower crux (a) the lower section is a lovely route in its own right, (b) it would get more traffic (which it needs) (c) it would solve the 60m rope issue AND (d) climbers would then do the top part BECAUSE of the 7a/b finish. N Cyprus would also then have its very own version of the multi pitch "Diamantes" (Buoux) (aka the best 7a in the world)!

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Dogged
Repeated
Onsighted
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Morchella

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Kozan Koy / Larnaka of Lapithos)

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